How To GRADE PATTERNS To Bigger and Smaller Sizes | Kim Dave

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In this video I show how to grade patterns to bigger and smaller sizes by Kim Dave
I worked with a basic bodice pattern • [DETAILED] HOW TO: MAK...
and basic trouser pattern • [UPDATED] LEARN HOW TO...
Intro 00:00
Sewing patterns 01:05
Grading basic bodice pattern bigger 02:12
Grading basic bodice pattern smaller 05:28
Grading basic trouser pattern bigger 08:34
Grading basic trouser pattern smaller 10:30
I am a U.K size 10 with dimensions (in inches)
Across shoulder 15
Bustline 36
Waistline 29
Hipline 39
Find more of my work online / kimdavedesigns
~~ Copyright 📢 ~~
Editing by Kim Dave
Filmed & Photographed with:
Camera - Panasonic G9, Micro Four Thirds
Lens - Panasonic Leica 10-25mm f1.7
Music is from Epidemic sound
~~ Buy sewing supplies 🛒 (handpicked by me!) ~~
Sewing Supplies (US) • www.amazon.com/shop/priscilli...
Individual Items (UK)
Pattern Master • amzn.to/2LTonAy
Pattern Paper for Tracing • amzn.to/2LRmCE4
Pattern Card, Brown Paper • amzn.to/2KBYfrO
Tape measure (yellow) • amzn.to/2Wd16O9
Set Square • amzn.to/2X9MOLx
Marker pen • amzn.to/2VC9fr1
Long Steel Ruler • amzn.to/2HCVIvp
Scissors • amzn.to/2WeaZuJ
Mannequin • amzn.to/2VUEfT5
Brother LS14S Sewing Machine • amzn.to/2VQVAkN
Brother 1034D Overlocker • amzn.to/2MxhRjd
Brother M343D Overlocker (Alternative) • amzn.to/2Fc7USz
**Disclaimer - Some of the links shared above are affiliate links which means I get a small commission when you purchase through them, however this does not affect my opinion about the items.

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Опубликовано:

6 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 144

@KimDave 2 года назад

There are a few things ways to grade sewing patterns and I share mine for a basic bodice and trouser in this tutorial. Know any tips or techniques? Share below. xx Kim Dave

@Retroseamqueen 3 месяца назад

I am sooo thankful I found you! I've been hesitant buying vintage patterns because I didn't know how I would go about grading it, thank you soo much! a million times thank you.

@KimDave 3 месяца назад

You are so welcome! Glad you found this video helpful

@amalrashid6682 2 года назад

This video tutorial is GOLD!! thank you so much for your thorough tutorial. So very helpful.

@FredwardDrawn 2 года назад

I adore how easy this video is to follow without skimping on details ^_^ Many times I'll watch a tutorial where I have to rewind a bunch to figure out what happened, but you clearly lay out your each step and why you did it. I've always struggled with the measurement side of sewing but this video makes it a WAY more manageable task, thank you!!!

@pink1997french 2 года назад

Thank you so much for your video I've been going to fashion school three internships and the whole nine yards and I kept asking them how to teach me how to grade and no one hasn't been able to and explaining the most easy and detailed way but your video did it thank you you have saved my life and my career I bless you 🌈❤️‍🔥❤️‍🔥❤️‍🔥❤️‍🔥

@SparkyOne549 2 года назад

Thanks. I have been drafting my own patterns, and grading them for my body type because I am smaller. I wish this video came out earlier when I was learning. But I had been doing it this way all along. This technique does work.

@KimDave 2 года назад

glad to know this technique has been tried and tested by you

@JenniferAnidu 2 года назад

Thanks for always sharing tips to help us better our skills!

@Selfsewsunday Год назад

This is the most useful video I've seen for pattern grading!

@yobabau 2 года назад

Thank you for this video! Now everything is clear and seems so easy to do. I am not afraid anymore of patterns and cutting into fabric just because of you! Sending lots of warm hugs

@KimDave 2 года назад

You are so welcome!

@kelebaloyi8322 2 года назад

I love your timing 😁 you're the best I swear 🤩🤩 thank you Priscilla 💕

@marylawrence8470 Год назад

Very good tutorial. Clear, concise.

@iDrey22 2 года назад

Thank you so much ❤ ❤ ❤ ❤ you are so kind to do this for us who did not go to fashion. May God bless you with so much favor🙏🙏

@h0ebart 2 года назад

AMAZING, thank you so much! I took a pattern class and my blocks are all size 10. I’m closer to a size 12/14, so this is so helpful! Again, thanks for this video!

@syltoy2745 Год назад

😍YOU MAKE ITLOOK SOOO EASY! THANK YOU KIM

@virginia9620 10 месяцев назад

Saw GRADE in the title... this lady is professional. My sis works in the garment industry and she usea the word grading all the time. SO, HAPPY TO HAVE FOUND YOU *** K I M

@b.ndunge 9 месяцев назад

Thank you very much this is a very helpful , detailed and informative video, I can't wait till I give this technique a try

@sibars2316 2 года назад

So helpful. More of these videos Kim. Thanks.

@KimDave 2 года назад

Thank you! Will do!

@vernabohnert635 Год назад

Thank you for sharing, very well explained 🙏

@tailoranddesign4395 6 месяцев назад

That helps a lot and it's clear to understand!

@ImTash Год назад

urgh god thanks for this! so many of these grading tutorials are trying to sell me their hideously expensive ruler system in order to do anything, or using a multisize pattern and using the other grading lines as a guide and i'm sat here with patterns from the 1940s and 1950s that only come in one (tiny) size with no markings - no seam allowance lines drawn on, no balance lines, just holes punched in the paper and notches if you're lucky going 'erm.... right.... so i grade this up by three sizes HOW?! ' THANK YOU for making this accessible and straight forward! you're a💎

@carolruramaikavhai3830 Год назад

Great illustrations. Very understandable

@dragonmyst9837 Год назад

Extremely helpful. Thanks 👍

@taniandabambi3815 2 года назад

Uuhhh Kim you're the best!! THANK YOU FOR THIS ❤❤❤❤❤

@KimDave 2 года назад

you're welcome Tania

@eminentandmodest 2 года назад

Very helpful, Kim. Thanks very much

@KimDave 2 года назад

Glad it was helpful!

@user-jh5bn2ny7m 9 месяцев назад

Thank you qnd evening...Easy to understand and will use this video always...FLO (South Africa

@maryquitecontrary9669 Год назад

This was brilliantly easy to follow, thank you so much!

@KimDave Год назад

Glad it was helpful!

@_Kittensworth Год назад

Thank you, this was very helpful

@ZeldaSews Год назад

Hi Kim. This was great information!

@kefirasun8963 11 месяцев назад

Thank you! I'm very new to sewing and this explanation was so easy to understand!!

@KimDave 11 месяцев назад

Glad it was helpful!

@berylwheaten9385 2 года назад

Thank you for sharing amazing tips about making patterns 🥰🥰🥰🥰

@KimDave 2 года назад

You’re always welcome 🤗

@itsurboyTukuMouse 2 года назад

Thank you for sharing this video - I am new on fashion design. I am still doing basic fashion design. Much appreciated 👌🏾 👌🏾 ❤️😍🙏🏾👍🏾

@KimDave 2 года назад

You are so welcome!

@irishflutegirl9022 Год назад

Amazing . Thank you ! 😄

@peacekeji9986 2 года назад

Kim Dave, thank you so much🤧🥰

@KimDave 2 года назад

You’re welcome ☺️

@tashriqahmohamed2682 9 месяцев назад

Thank you so much for the guidelines!

@KimDave 9 месяцев назад

You are so welcome!

@madhumitaghosh713 2 года назад

This was such a useful and informative video explained soo beautifully. God bless you my dear. Thanks a lot

@KimDave 2 года назад

My pleasure 😊

@mapulamodiba3078 2 года назад

Thank you so much I've learned new techniques much appreciated kim

@KimDave 2 года назад

You’re welcome ☺️

@msieurdaveyray5393 Год назад

Thanks for your excellent & easy to understand tutorial; 100/100%👍

@KimDave Год назад

Glad it was helpful!

@queenchukwueke2275 2 года назад

This was very helpful

@marisoldominguez438 2 года назад

Awesome thanks.

@SakinahOlajide 2 года назад

Thank you for this tutorial, it is very practical and easy to follow, however, I do not quite understand how to curve the back neckline.

@odjeblessing8594 2 года назад

Thanks for sharing 🙏

@prettytailor 2 года назад

Thank you so much for this video.... you did justice to it.

@KimDave 2 года назад

Glad you enjoyed it!

@temitayo7524 2 года назад

Thank you the video is really helpful you made it easy to understand

@KimDave 2 года назад

Glad you found the video helpful

@robynlockett3926 3 месяца назад

Thanks so much for this information. I’m new to grading patterns and this is very helpful. New follower her ☺️

@KimDave 3 месяца назад

You are so welcome!

@marryadkinson7918 Год назад

Thank you

@MissChristinaCrazzy Год назад

Thank you for this tutorial 😊

@KimDave Год назад

You’re welcome 😊

@chiquethelles 2 года назад

Thank you for sharing 👌🏽👏🏽

@KimDave 2 года назад

You are so welcome

@kittyrakgwale5764 2 года назад

Thank u dear, as M going to sew for ppl with bigger size, u really did help m😭

@jacquelinecebuliak5112 2 года назад

wow, sooo very helpful, THANK U!! form Metro Vancouver, BC ❤️🇨🇦❤️

@KimDave 2 года назад

You are so welcome!

@olgaolive1049 Год назад

This is so helpful! Thank you for creating this tutorial. May I know what kind of ruler you are using?

@naystitches 2 года назад

Thank you so much I'm about to make clothes in bulk and different sizes

@pricillaamoah9793 2 года назад

Thank you so much for sharing this video. I've been to a fashion school and honestly speaking, I regret paying fees for them to chop without the knowledge. Maybe my expectations were different from what I went to experience, but I'm ready to start all over again . Is there any beginner book you can recommend to me please. God bless you.❤

@KimDave 2 года назад

You're so welcome! What I realized from attending fashion school and working independently is that the time at school is honestly not enough to learn everything. For books in regards to fashion, I have done video about this. See it here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fAgPpYbnuDg.html

@coz7891 2 года назад

Dont feel bad, I have a Patternmaking degree from Fashion Inst. of Technology & none of us felt like we learned anything.

@hamdallahajike5753 7 месяцев назад

Same way am feeling right now we were taught pattern grading today and I couldn't understand anything she is not ready to explain well

@bongiwebhobho4829 2 года назад

Thanks a lot dear

@GenXDesigns 2 года назад

In the US we use this method for multiple size patterns. It’s interesting to see it done with a single block.

@alexandraharmel999 Год назад

Thank you for this super helpful video. Could you explain how you decided to add an extra 0.4 inches from the notch point on the arm curve? [@ 3:30] I am confused why you add it at the notch when it seems you can add a notch anywhere on the curve and therefor the extension could have been added from anywhere on the arm curve. Does it matter? Thanks!

@sweettazcandyy 2 года назад

Thank you!

@KimDave 2 года назад

You're welcome!

@nightnurse49 2 года назад

You're the best 💪👍👍

@KimDave 2 года назад

thank you

@charlenepemberton8468 11 месяцев назад

Hello, love your videos! I what about the sleeves ? Do you mark those up when making the bodice bigger?

@djemmadjemma6260 2 года назад

super Kim

@kvijayabalan4598 10 месяцев назад

Iam pattern cutter

@breannadavis1581 Год назад

how did you determine the difference from your side seam? did you take the different in your waist or hip measurement and divide that by 4?

@chinelonwokoh 2 года назад

thank you so much 🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰

@KimDave 2 года назад

You’re welcome 😊

@polkadot8788 2 года назад

Could you use this technique to grade up a vintage pattern that is too small to fit me? I need to get from 36" to 41" bust.

@missgworl3918 2 года назад

THANK YOUUUUUUU❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

@KimDave 2 года назад

you're welcome 😊

@abbytheredwolf174 Год назад

I really want to create patch jeans out of jeans I already have but making them a mom jean instead of skinny how imma do it idk but this helps a lot.

@stephaniebenjamin8108 9 месяцев назад

Great but what was needed here is to show the adjustment for sleeve for the sizing up and down for the bodice as well.

@vrushtikotak1268 Месяц назад

thank you so much this was very very helpful, I am gonna use the grading for upper bodice do I have to use the same measurement for back bodice as well. Would really appreciate a reply

@KimDave Месяц назад

you're welcome. Yes you can use the same technique for the back bodice pattern

@Mia-mh1cf 11 месяцев назад

would the bodice tutorial work for a dress pattern? the pattern I'm using doesn't have a separate skirt and bodice piece so it's for the full body

@PhotoSlash 5 месяцев назад

so there are some general measurements to apply for grading? i didn't know it, i thought it was different for each garment. so if you started from a M size we can say that you added a L and S size, right?

@namithak1667 2 года назад

Hey. So how are sleeves graded? Could you please help me out with that

@abielaird Год назад

Does the measurements for increasing/decreasing stay the same for all sizes? Like could i use this method for sizes 0-16? And are skirts done the same way as the pants?

@denisem5437 2 года назад

Fab

@ameyo4113 Год назад

Could you please make an entire video on grading in cm? Thank you!🌷

@keiyamcmorris9271 2 года назад

exactly what I needed. thank you! are these measurements the standards used in industry as you said some people add 1 inch side seam. and so forth if you do decide to use 1 inch side seam would that mean you double the rest of measurements ?

@KimDave 2 года назад

I did learn how to make and grade patterns in centimetres, however you can grade in inches. As long you provide the size dimensions for your clients to see in a size chart

@kchong3502 2 года назад

Thank you so much this has been extremely helpful but why don’t you grade the rise/ crotch of the trousers block. Thanks

@KimDave 2 года назад

You're welcome. I think grading the crotch of the trouser will just make the crotch line lower every time you add extra measurement to it.

@floyd9050 11 месяцев назад

If I were to grade a sleeve to a shirt how much would I go up or down

@Samiam173 Год назад

So you don't do anything to the inseam, only the outter seam? I am downsizing a basic pair of scrubs from XL to L.. Please advise and thank you. By the way, we have the exact same "real" nails....mine will grow to about 6 inches but because I like to sew, and a bunch of other things I keep them the same length as yours.

@breannadavis1581 Год назад

what if the difference between the pattern measurements versus the clients are like a 3 in bust difference, 2 inch waist difference, and a 4 in hip difference?

@arierhij 2 года назад

This technic looks easier. Thank you very much! Can you please share a link where to buy your pattern master?

@KimDave 2 года назад

You’re welcome Jennifer. I got mine from Amazon years ago See similar here www.amazon.co.uk/ArtWay-Pattern-Master-Maker-Design/dp/B07N66ZWLR/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1N4YJFQ8VWS42&keywords=pattern+master&qid=1645362281&sprefix=pattern+master+%2Caps%2C62&sr=8-3

@samirasamgil2297 2 года назад

Just love you💕 Can you convert a skirt block to a trouser PLEASE

@KimDave 2 года назад

I think you can actually, from the hipline you can add the crotch depth and centre front curve. And after that, mark half of around thigh, knee and hemline dimensions from side seam respectively Also shaping the waistline might be good too

@sonj88 Год назад

Hello have you heard of the pivot and slide method? to adjust a pattern

@KimDave Год назад

Oh no I haven't heard of that. How does it work?

@lizvanderelst 6 месяцев назад

When you grade up, do you re-adjust the darts? Like, move it more to the side seam. I prefer to use and pivot method, but sometimes the darts are not in the right place.

@KimDave 6 месяцев назад

Yes I move the dart towards the side seam as I grade the pattern uo

@dsego1183 Год назад

I’m new to sewing but, have some patterns my size that my daughter like so, I’ve tried to reduce the pattern to fit her (I’m a 14, she’s a 4) 😳and I’m just wondering for the pants, why wouldn’t you adjust the crotch for a smaller size? Is it because it’s adjusted from the waistline?

@kokodin5895 2 месяца назад

lovely explanation but i would argue about the darts, because in 3 or 4 sizes down or up it could slide out of the pattern i would rather use the scary word "math" or rather move it proportionally so the pattern would retain it's shape and seem lines on the same place measure distance horizontally edge to edge and from the non graded edge to the middle of the dart and divide total length by the partial one after grading the outline measure the pattern horisontally at the same level then divide the lenght by the previously calculated ratio i belive if you grade something just one size up or down this is not really needed, but going 2 or 3 sizes might get interested i would also like to point out that horisontal darts should also grade in width to avoid exaturating or dulling down the effect they have on overal shape i mostly worked with stretchy fabrics and tightfiting clothes for cosplay purposes and and it was a nightmare to grade every time when the person i made something needed an update in size after winter :] in many cases it was making entire thing from scratch but sometimes only sizing down

@noemigalvan2440 2 года назад

What about the sleeve pattern that goes with the bodice pattern ?! Are you planning on making a pdf pattern to sell and will you be doing a video on how to grade sleeves ?!

@KimDave 2 года назад

I just might make one and add to my online store.

@puseletsotsilo 2 года назад

Great tortorial, but confusing if one is using centeneters.

@ConstanceMarkiewicz 4 месяца назад

Brilliant tutorial! Can I ask where your curve gadget (ruler) is from? So much better than mine.

@KimDave 4 месяца назад

thanks Constance. I got mine from Morplan www.morplan.com/gb_en/patternmaster-pro

@ConstanceMarkiewicz 4 месяца назад

@@KimDave thank you 😊

@momoso143 4 месяца назад

Does grading mean altering sizes on top and bottom? I am small on top and big on the bottom and I’m just learning how to make my own block pattern but I’m not sure what size to create. For reference I am size 12 on top and size 16 on bottom, any help or advice would really be appreciated and I’m still watching your video!

@KimDave 4 месяца назад

Typically grading means increasing or reducing the pattern to the next size. You will most likely have to combine sizes to fit your body comfortably.

@andreahenry517 2 года назад

Can you do a size 10 pattern

@SmangeleThwala-fd5bq 2 месяца назад

Hw to do patterns wtht taking measurements only size

@roncoleman9415 Год назад

Does the patterns include seam allowance?

@KimDave Год назад

No it doesn’t

@MrsDixon-ip8vb 11 месяцев назад

What about the back of the bodice and trouser? DId I miss this

@KimDave 11 месяцев назад

The same rules apply to the back of the bodice & trouser

@graceenang Год назад

Hello Kim, what if grading two sizes up

@KimDave Год назад

Hi Grace. For two sizes up, you can either repeat the steps twice or double the amount by which you grade from your original pattern. Hope this helps

@EnigmaNerd 9 месяцев назад

I'm curious about the trouser... what's the reasoning for not grading the rise I guess its called. The seam that woukd go around the abdomen, between the legs and bottom. I'm grading a pattern up and want to make sure its deep enough, but I guess just adding to the outside is enough? Comments and advice on this question are infinitly appreciated!

@chinelonwokoh 2 года назад

Please if i’m to grade lower than size 8 am i to go lower too?

@KimDave 2 года назад

Yes you just continue to grade lower for smaller sizes

@chinelonwokoh 2 года назад

@@KimDave ok thank you 😊

@agneschosen5719 Год назад

Why don't we grade the folkpoints?

@queenchukwueke2275 2 года назад

😘😘😘😘😘😘😘😘😘

@sewexplicit 2 года назад

The basic concept of grading is the same as yours. How you went about it is similar to how I will do it by hand or with CAD. what differs is the grade rules, that is the amount one chooses to increase or reduce the pattern at each point. However, I will like to say that in your case where the half front girth grows by 0.5", the point at the armhole (that you graded 0.4" to the right) shouldn't grade beyond 0.25". The reason is that the ACROSS CHEST width in a full front will usually grow by 0.5" when the full FRONT BUST ARC grows by 1". If you continue to grade more sizes up & down with 0.4", you will notice that the armhole will morph out of shape. The bigger sizes will have overly shallow armhole curves and the smaller sizes will be overly scooped out, both of which will impact fit.

@KimDave 2 года назад

Thank you so much for your amazing comment 😃