I have that "violent" stone wheel dressing tool. I have a restored very large antique dual wheel grinder, and a 6 inch two stone grinder. All needed dressing. I didn't get the largest of these dressing tools, but it is at least the size of the one you demonstrated; maybe the next size up. Lot of good tips Rob, so I must share too, as you were using your "violent" dressing tool incorrectly,...according to the instructions that came with mine, and also according to the industrial supplier catalog information, from whom I purchase the odd tool from. According to the instructions I have, you would need to back off your tool rest a bit, as the tool has a ledge that hooks over the edge of the tool rest. You should have a sturdy tool rest for proper use as well, IMO. You should not be seeing that shower of sparks; that is a major indicator you are using the tool incorrectly; you are wearing the metal of the tool, not the stone, if you are seeing sparks like that. The tool is meant to be a bit more "violent" in fact, LOL. You are supposed to use the hook over the tool rest to create a greater and steadier pressure against the stone. When you do, the sparks will stop and you will see quite clearly that you are dressing the stone. Now that I think of it, I meant to order an extra set of blades, once I had verified that the tool did the job. I actually should have purchased the largest/widest version of this dressing tool, for my antique, restored to working, big grinding wheels. They run on a thick shaft in lead poured bushings, and thin brass shims! I got a smaller dressing tool though, as I figured I would be using the smaller grinder much more. Hope this helps Rob, and all.
Have just started watching Rob's videos and have to say that he is organized and is an excellent speaker/teacher. No ahs, ummms, or redundant stuttering. Easy safe shop technics.
i enjoy alot of youtube woodworkers and being involved in their communities, but i have learned more from you than all of the rest combined not to mention how inspired, motivated, and thankful i am that you and yours have allowed all of us the opportunity to be involved in something as amazing as PHP. thanks for what all of you do and have a happy new year.
For trueing up chisels or plane blades I use diamond stone , oil stone , whetstone and leather strop in that order . Leaves a mirror finished bevel and scary sharp edge . For maintenance after each use I just use an oil stone . Takes time but effective and great therapy too .
Yes but in this video we’re not really talking about sharpening we’re talking about establishing or reestablishing the primary bevel once you have that done then you can use your method or my message to get a scary sharp system
So, I mustered the courage to do this having not done this before. I practiced on an older plane blade that was skewed and then went to work on my blade from my 5 1/2. I was able to square the end and after I put a new edge on, it makes beautiful thin shavings once again. So, if I can do it anybody can...just believe in yourself!
It's amazing Rob and crew can put out a 30 minute video on something I already know yet; 1. I always learn something new and 2. It is entertaining. Good good and Happy New Year!
As an old machinist who often ground his own tools, including drills, I love the craftsmanship you show in tool sharpening. You are demonstrate what is meant by the old saying "it's a poor craftsman that blames his tools."
This is a great and honest video. Too many folks online claim to do everything by hand and I can tell you from experience that it takes hours to re-establish a primary bevels by hand. My new CBN Wheel can do it in under a minute :)
If you're going to invest in a can wheel, you might want to look at a slow speed grinder also. If you go with a 3600 rpm grinder, you really need a light touch to avoid damage to the blade or wheel.
Interesting video Rob. I have a 6" grinder with 2 grades of stone, one finer than the other so, I use the coarse grade first then touch up with the finer stone before using the stone. One tip I might offer is that I use the knuckle on the forefinger of my lower hand as a depth guide to achieve an even grind across my blade be it plane or chisel.
That is the plane I have it took me two days to put the frog back fairly right and sharpen the blade but in this video you taught me more to take into consideration and I don't mind the hardship I'm having I'm learning more of an understanding of the importance how other parts of the plane function thank you very much
Happy New Year Rob and the whole team. I am fairly new to hand tool woodworking. Yesterday I re-profiled my Woodriver 5 1/2 plane blade. Came off the grinder square. I sharpened it using your method and for the life of me I can not get an even edge. About a 1/3 to 2/3 of the blade will provide a .001 shaving then it falls off. To get a full width shaving it is hacking off a good .005. I am either doing something wrong or still need a bit more practice. A work in progress.
If you manage to stall the wheel you are using far too much pressure at the risk of wasting metal, burning the edge and being inaccurate. The advantage of a bigger motor is that it comes up to speed quicker, especially with a heavy CBN wheel.
I noticed that the board arrived with corner holes, but I didn't see that in your gerber spec. Did the manufacturer just add those, or am I missing something? Great video, super helpful, thanks for your investment in time.
Scanning my subscribed channels. Next..next.. next.. my brain says STOP>>> Rob got new video... me runs to the kitchen makes a big pot of coffee and starts watching ... what an amazing way to start a day 👍
It’s a good start to the day and a good start to the new year. Let me know what video do you want to see necks as we plan our production schedule for 2021
Rob, this is really helpful. You need to check out Wood by Wright’s video he just published about the best plane blades. He did a really great job in testing a large number the blades. Woodriver came out to be the best value. They beat out Lie Nelson toe to toe and are a good bit cheaper. Anyway, it’s worth checking out and there are a couple of surprises out there as far as some good quality and expensive options.
I got a 10" wet grinder recently, and then about a week later realized that what I really needed was an 8" grinder and a cbn or norton grinding wheel. Hollow grind is so fast to finish on the stones. Really surprised the hell out of me.
Perfect timing. I just got a new Rikon slow speed grinder for Christmas. I have several old plane blades to practice with before I regrind my woodriver 5 1/2. Thanks for the lesson. Happy new year!
Very well taught and laid out. Having been a general machinist I know how important a good grinder and well dressed and balanced grinding wheel is. I would have been tempted to hurt someone for a CBN wheel!
Hey Rob! Thanks for all of the good instruction. Without realizing it I made a back bevel on my bevel up block plane. I now realize bevel up blades should not have a back bevel. What should I do?
Thanks Rob. I really like your style of presentation - especially so when your opinions and humour is shared. Publicly stated opinions seem to be in short supply these days, so please keep 'em coming!
Outstanding work again - well done, Rob. The informative demonstration clearly shows why the extra investment will always pay off, even for a hobbiest.
Happy New Year to You, your Family and all your Crews . Rob's crystal clear instruction takes our sharpening skill to the new level. In fact, I had an old plane that have curves on both sides and I had put it away for a long time. Gonna give it a new life.
Rob instead of changing the tool rest plate angle to remove the chip why not just turn the plane blade over? Grind until the bottom of the chip is at the base of the new reverse angle. Turn over again and grind until the reverse angle is removed. No lost time reseting angles.
Because I want to grind out the chip at 90 degrees to the wheel so I creat a blunt surface thats nit endanger of overheating when i put the primary angle back on it.
Well you made that look easy enough Rob , , how come every one of your vids makes me feel I need to get on and do what You’ve just shown? It’s 03:40 am New Years Day here, and I am sooooo wanting to go and turn on my little workshop! - is it OK to blame you if my neighbours complain? Simply another master class - great job, thanks.
This video popped up on RU-vid at the perfect time. I'm reconditioning several old planes that need the blades to be reworked. Good news is I already have the One way setup on my grinder. Thanks Rob for the lesson!
I really enjoyed this video. Well-researched, thoughtfully prepared and presented without all the noise that so many videos contain. Thank you for your good work. Best wishes in the new year.
Once you find center of the blade, put a wixey on there and make note of the angle. Much easier to come back to it later if you have changed the platform for any reason.
I use a Burr King belt grinder that I use for grinding knives. It doesn't leave a hollow grind. On my pedestal grinder I use a Norton white wheel and a regular wheel on the other end. Nice to know the steel wheel exists but I rarely use my old grinder since i got the Burr king. The other advantage of a belt grinder is the plethora of different belts available for specific grinds and belt changes only take a minute. ...And I don't like hollow grinds.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I know you like machines, next time you run across a decent belt grinder grab it! You won't be disappointed with the speed and accuracy you can obtain with one. The grinding jig you use looks like it might feel well at home on my belt grinder.
I fought for ages with the squareness issue of the grind on one old plane iron that was on a plane owned by my late father. I finally put the calipers on the blade and found that the long sides of the blade were not parallel. The blade tapered from the cutting edge toward the "back" end.
Very informative video but it took a while to get to the actual grinding stuff. As a side note how about a video on making an adjustable tool guide for grinding.
Happy new year Rob and to the whole of the Cosman family 👪 love your videos love what you all do sharing your knowledge to us I have learned so much I would say my dovetails are high quality my furniture making is amazing and that's thanks to you all my skills have been refined . May 2021 bring good things to you all and the purple heart 💜
I was hoping you would address the grinding, sharpening and honing the back of your high bevel blades for difficult wood. How do you do it without making a mess?
Faster speeds risking changing microstructure in the steel compromising hardness by annealing. Slowly speed means rate of heat transfer is lower, so lower annealing temperatures are more likely. Cool blade in water.slower cutting is best.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking No it certainly isn't good.I recently bought a WR low angle block plane. When I couldn't get the back of the iron flat, I returned it and bought a Lie Nielsen.
M The side edges on many older plane blades (pre-Hock and pre-L-N) are not parallel. Therefore, it is impossible to grind the edge square with both edges.
Happy new year Rob! Regular viewer from South Jersey (Philadelphia suburbs). I apologize if this was asked in the comments already, but how do the friable, white wheels compare to the CBN and classic stone wheels, as far as heating the blade is concerned? I have a rikon grinder that came with the white wheels and have been kicking around the idea of replacing one side with a CBN wheel. Thank you for the hours of entertaining education you’ve provided us with. I hope to spend six days at your handwork class soon, once this pandemic is just a memory.
All of the stone and ceramic wheels the white wheel as you call it all will cause heating problems. Just as I pointed out in the video CBN’s are awesome you don’t have to dress the wheel the actors around heat sink very Goodwill. Good choice boils down to expense versus maintaining a stone will your choice
Yes we had a little goof up in the first of the week when we put up the mini shooting bored we accidentally linked it to this video and it was published for about an hour before we took it down and fixed it
My first fear is to go out of square with this method. It could be easy to add a horizontal guide and a slide on the bottom of the plate, cheap and safe. If you want a project design just let me know! Happy New year to all the Crew!
Yes you could do that. You also can just use your knuckle on the bottom of the tool rest as a little guide. I think you’ll find that after grinding two or three blades you can keep it straight very very easily without a guide
This is the exact video that i need. I sharpen with a jig so i dont really need to re-grind, but i want to start making wooden planes and this video answered all my questions Happy Neew Year Mr.Cosman
No I’m not worried about sparks starting a fire with sawdust. There’s actually been lots of experiments done with dust collection system’s and trying to ignite them on fire and it’s very very difficult. What is problematic is the health risk to your respiratory system with sawdust that is very real and very dangerous
I have two cbn wheels. Both have rounded edges which is good for some things but bad for others. I want someone to make a wheel with one round edge and one square edge.
Oneway markets this primarily to wood turners in the US. Search for the Wolverine Grinding Jig. You get a single tool rest with two bases along with a vee arm that you may not use unless you are also a wood turner. You can buy an extra tool rest or just swap the single rest between sides. Rob, I recently discovered your site and I love your teaching style. You're right to the point with all the necessary information and potential pitfalls!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking No. I was just reminded of the first time I used a grinder many years ago and I smoked the edge of whatever I was working on very quickly.
What do you think of Tormac T8 sharpener and its jig ? Probably not as fast but would it be more accurate , and is it worth the price ? Really like your videos and instructions ! Thanks !
Great video Rob. I have the same dilemma as Mike, but am considering a cheaper Tormek like machine with a coarse wheel that sells for around $200 here in the UK, so perhaps even cheaper than a grinder and stand? As Mike suggested, this would just be to reestablish the primary bevel, before moving on to stones, in my case with a honing jig. I completely understand your perspective Rob, but I take on very few woodworking projects as an occasional weekend hobby and don’t need to work quickly. I also quite enjoy using a jig and find it gives me all the accuracy I need.
Re-establish is when it was once there and you’re bringing it back. However, to sharpen it would mean that that’s the edge I’m going to use, which for me is not the case. I sharpen on my stones, not my grinder.
Does it make me a horrible person that I prefer to use a jig on both my grinder and coarse diamond stone to re-establish my primary bevel, then only free hand sharpen day to day ?
Hey I think I already answered this comment know you’re not horrible you’re just slow but if you’re confident in your drugs and you get good results why change
For me it’s faster and I can put a CB in wheel on it so heat not an issue. On a belt sander if you’re not careful you can have rounding issues so for me the grinder is a much better way to go but if a belt sander works for you that’s fine
