How to Grow Amazing Plants with Compost Tea - Masterclass with Dr. Elaine Ingham (Part 1 of 5) 

She runs her own program. So, as long as she values herself, she certainly is.

@@MelatoninOVRDOS Yeah her classes cost thousands of dollars each. Diego Footer is doing quite a service posting this content for free, it would cost alot to take these courses.

​@@WebSurfingIsMyPastimein all fairness she dedicated her life to this subject and is one of the world's leading authority on microbiology of the soil. I think she can put the price the way she wants to, it's her right

I'd be interested to hear her thoughts on KNF ferments...

I think it all depends on what u are trying to grow , take rice for example ....growing kelp is differant than growing catus .

Aerobic is oxidizing. Anaerobic causes reduction. Two sides of the same coin, both are needed.

She says she generalizes, since nearly all the disease causing organisms are anaerobic. But that doesn't mean all anaerobics are bad, just that the bad, usually are anaerobic NOT aerobic. Also aside from one being able to carry disease, and one not being able to, anaerobics out out chemicals not welcomed by the plant or other microbes. Biofilms form, and depending how thick, the worse off

lactic acid bacteria, which are literally the corner stone in JADAM/KNF are conditionally anaerobic. And they actually do more good than damage. It's about the balance in your soil, both are needed really

I think that it’s going to kill the substantial portion of microbes before it’s going to neutralize the chloramine in the water, so you will end up without the potent microbial rich compost tea, you will have some life still but it’s not going to be as rich as it was in a compost before you started brewing it

Are you really asking why we should remove chlorine, something which entire purpose is to kill microorganisms, from a pile which entire purpose is to cultivate micro-organisms? I mean come on 🤣

Did you ever get an answer to this?

Because you are removing the chlorine before it touches the pile? What's confusing about that?

​@@B01 So Elaine is proposing taking a cup of compost, passing 12 cups of water over that cup of compost to extract the humic acid, then tossing that cup of compost bc It's been exposed to the chloramine and no longer can be used for brewing, and using the new humic acid water for the tea? Am i understanding this correctly?

I do it. I put my staff, my brown but no water, than when I have enough material, I add the moisture and manure. And I turn it regularly. It went hot even half done cold compost after the winter. (see grow it organically). The center will be lukewarm, and I open it regularly during the winter.

Read the Humanure Handbook it's free and answers that question pretty well

Soil around the world has nutrients but needs the right microbiology to be able to break it down and make it available to the plants

If you get experienced with her system you get away with two turns per pile. If you need more to save it from going anerobic or way to hot you messed up Ur ingredients ratio which comes down to experience. You will get really good compost in just under a month You can achieve the same with a Jonson su bioreactor, same kinda work to set up but then no turning. Takes way way longer till it's ready tho

Just have a worm bin instead. Much more manageable and you can do it indoors if you want to.

For more surprising results add wood ash in human urine

IMHO city water isn't good for anything, can you install a barrel to collect rain water? Just a thought.

You can find water hose filters made for RVs. That's what I use in my garden. Also, if you have fluoride in your city water, make sure your filter specifically mentions it. They are fairly inexpensive

Semantics

if you have loose soil, basically as soon as you start doing these practices. Don't worry so much about the details, if you have the right practices everything will start improving immediately.

You could say that in a couple of years, if you pile on the compost tea, leaf mulch, etc., your soil will be much improved in a couple of years.

Within 3 months if you're gungo, that's been quoted as the fastest people have seen real improvements

In available phosphorus yes, in total phosphorus locked away in minerals normally not. And even if then only in the top layer. But a Meter down or so you'll definitely find enough locked away in the soil minerals. If ur curious look up/test for the total mineralogical phosphor content of the soil, as long as that is enough to grow ur decired plants something will go and mine this phosphor.

@@Weiserschakalso the question is whether or not the biology can weather the parent material.

link of that video pls

Link to your source on JADAM info please?

I use what I know of both methods some how combined whit great results mnf#

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GD9Z5qo285M.html

Student of both metbods. Best of dr. elaine ingham style compost/tea is still mostly anaerobic/facultative microbes as observed by Matt powers under the microscope. On the flip side Jadam is being selective about the microbes/fungul innoculants by choosing only the top soil from old growth forests (they dont dig deep to specifically find anerobic microbes). The principal in jadam is bring so much variety that it will balance each other out. Still an ever evolving field with heaps to learn. Just my 2 cents :)

Not to the researxh jadam has done and inFact u want it because that is specidic to plants bacteria needs.

If you're doing it right, your tea will be filled with 'good' bacteria. You know, they kind you'll find in your gut? If your tea stinks, it is brewing the bad kind. Clean your brewing bin well beforehand and toss it if it wreaks.

If you made proper compost and then tea from it no no problem at all. If you made a tea with the plant material directly, first that's no compost tea, there no compost in it, that might couse problems if you had something undesirable live on the plant and now multiplied it.

Look at the soil under a microscope to see if it has the correct biology.

I assume that the wetlands you're talking about aren't natural wetlands, as the plants that would grow there naturally have adapted to low ph, low oxygen environments, so therefore they should be fine and they are. Unfortunately there aren't very many plants that can live in that kind of environment. Seeland, BE, Switzerland, where I'm from used to be a wetland, consistently being flooded, and people tried to grow domesticated grains and potatoes here (like wtf? it's crazy how low the average intelligence was back then). Therefore they thought those periodical floods were a nuisance, so they built a channel which would funnel away the water of the river "Aare" directly into a nearby lake. This solved the problem of floods and what remained was extremely fertile soil that has been built up over thousands of years. This was in 1973 and has been a huge success, ecologically. The "Seeland" is now the biggest vegetable producer in Switzerland by far. However, as all of us can imagine, soils have been degrading extremely fast ever since. Now we have agronomists complaining about our continuously worsening soils. Notice how they called that operation "jura water correction", as if you have to "correct" nature... just deluded tbh. If you have water logged soil, then start from there, use species that can live in that environment, they will slowly start changing the soil environment, so that your soil becomes less and less waterlogged. If you live in a true wetland that consistently overflows, use that to your advantage. Rice is a good species to grow intercropped with wetland adapted treelines. pfaf.org/user/Default.aspx this is a really, really helpful website to select for plants that grow well in your environment. Choose your USDA hardiness zone, choose your soil conditions and you will find many species that have huge advantages for you.

Depends on how fast/slow it dryed, and how hot it got. A lot of things will go in to a dormant form if the drying was gentle enough. A lot will die. Add moisture and some fungal food(fish hydrolysate, oats, bran, kelp) let it sit for a week, look at it through a microscope and see what woke up again.

@@Weiserschakal thanks

@@Weiserschakal maybe if its not to be used for a long time it needs to be dried or it will decay and slowly loose its npk value ?

Yes as far as I know. Its green

They are one of the coolest kids at the pool party.

Are there plants growing from it?

The minerals have the elements (according to Ingham)

Edit: I got a few of the timeframes wrong, listen to part 3 of the series, that's where she talks about it. The main difference between tea and extract is the ratio of the microbes present to each other. Tea can only multiple things that multiply fast aka bacteria and some protozoa. It can make fungal spores germinate. Some fungal hyphae might grow a bit but in general can be kinda ignored. So the faster the lifecycle the more multiplication. Bacteria normally multiple with in the hour. Protozoa with in a day. Nematodes take weeks to months and hate disturbance. Arthropods are also somewhere in the weeks category. Generally speaking extracts are for soil, root ball dips, and seed treatment's. Tea seems to through the brewing more produce ratios that work well to inoculated the above ground part of a plant with a health biofilm Neither should change anything on the durability of specific microbes. Extract should include more microbes in its dormant form/stage in which they are in a way more durable. If you're asking about which one can be stored longer the answer is extract but both should be used as fast as possible and will spoil when the oxygen goes low enough that the obligate aerobic microbes start to get harmed. Normally we are talking of a few hours but it's highly temperature dependent. It also depends on the amount of food present. Even actively aerated tea will go anerobic when the microbes multiply to high enough numbers.

Absolutely

@@noelroga4593 can u explain a little how we can do this

Yes but it highly depends on the substrate the worms live in and the food or compost you use as as food for the worms. If your worm setup looks more like Forrest flor you will most likely have more fungi in there. What ever you brew your tea with obviously needs to bring the fungi... There fungal ritch and fungal poor vermiconpost out there.

i'm tired of seeing your stupid acid casualty face posted around these videos, change your profile pic you're disgusting

Hours - long awnser below. Depends on temperature, food present, and amount air you put in. As soon as you stop aeration it will go anerobic with in hour's. But it can even go anerobic while brewing if you brew it for to long while there is still food present for microbes to multiply. Water can only absorb so much oxygen, the absorption rate and holding capacity depends on the temperature. It is possible to grow the microbes to a point where they use more oxygen than the water can absorb and things will turn anerobic evento you are actively aerating.

Research humic acid, has nothing to do with the beneficial microbes, well it's produced and eaten by them but it's just about the chemical component called humic acid. The same way we have citric acid, sure it's in citrus fruit but also in a whole lot of other things even human bodys produce it.

If you have good humate rich compost and runn water through it really slowly and gently to not wash of any microbes but to leach out humic acid. Then you should get a liquid with a deep dark chocolate collor .. Ur humic acid plus a bunch of other organic acids and a whole lot of other soluble stuff that was in you compost.

Fungal foods are ligninified plant tissues, in otherwords, plant tissues that contain lignin. Wood is the best known example of that, but also tall grasses can have lignin in them. Phragmites spp, Arundo spp are other examples. Tree bark is a highly digestible source of lignin. Bacterial foods is pretty much everything that is organic, they can digest everything well expect lignin. I think Dr. Ingham stresses the point of feeding diversified organic materials into your compost, that's how to ensure the broadest possible amount of bacteria in your compost. You don't really need liquid forms of those foods, at least not for your compost heap. You gotta understand ecological succession to answer this problem correctly, not only of the flora of your system, but also of the soil life. Both are interrelated though. The more woody your plants get, the more fungally-dominated your soil. The more weedy your plants, the more bacterially-dominated your soil is. Therefore, if you want to increase your liquid fungal foods, you simply need to plant a shrub or a tree, if possible a pioneer species. This will feed the soil according to its needs (liquid fungal foods), which will contibute to a fungally-dominated soil. This is important: Compost cannot become the primary focus, it should remain a means to an end. Compost is great, but your soil already makes compost, exactly where you need it. So just grow plants, the higher the diversity the better. Weeds are in this respect of incalculable value. They grow in bad soils, create mulch, feed the soil, so that when they're done growing, your soil will be able to receive more demanding more useful crops. No plant, no bacteria, no protozoa, no animal, no fungi, no chromista, no archaea is ever NOT helpful to your system. Just use them to your advantage as nature would.

Fungal food: kelp dust, fish hidrolisate, humic assid ... Bacterial food: "cheap" calories. Generally preferred is untreated black strap molasses, non sulfured! It provides long chain sugars therefore a bit slower digest but also bit more long-term food, it provides heaps of also needed minerals. Elaine generally as a rule of thump recommends to ignore the bacteria food wise and mainly feed the fungi. The bacteria get the scraps only feed the bacteria after you got experienced with out feeding em because it's supper easy to overfeed em and most of the times the scraps is all they need.

@@Weiserschakal so bacteria food is like worm castings or even worm food?

@@vonries yes, there's still quite some food for bacteria in worm castings. And definitely worms can only eat microbes, so all the things you throw to you worms as food actually get eaten by microbes which then get "hunted" by the worms. Worms then squeeze em to death in their intestines to absorb the nutrients stored in the microbes.

🙄

That can very well be a case of your soil not being ready for the plants your grow. Or it can be a case of not managing your system intelligently. But both point to the same solution: - Cover your soil with organic matter, the deeper the better (I'm talking about 3-5 inches deep). - Grow diversified crops. - Focus on maximizing photosynthesis in your system, that also means growing plants at different heights. Pioneer trees are game changers in this respect. - Have loose soil. Tilling your soil when starting your system is extremely beneficial. Afterwards don't till anymore. Out of everything you can possibly do, covering your soil is by far the most important. Once you do this, you can say good-bye to diseases, trust me. How to do it? - buying organic matter - wood chips from a local farmer, sawmill (rather expensive) - young compost from a commercial compost producer (less expensive) - uncomposted, shredded organic matter from a commercial compost producer (basically the feedstock that they use to make their compost). That should be very cheap. - creating organic matter - growing a biomass crop for one full season where you want to grow your future cash crops (lettuce, leafy greens). Use species such as sorghum, crotalaria juncea, napiergrass, miscanthus x giganteus, phalaris arundinacea, etc. After one season, kill it, arrange it in lines of about 20 inches deep, let it decompose for some time until it reduced by half in depth. This will serve as your mulch, plant directly into it with transplants. Your salads will be hard to raise like that since they don't like being transplanted. I don't know how exactly to deal with that problem. I would just diversify your operation to include more plants, even trees if you want. I can help you to do this if you're interested. Just get back to me.

@@lorrainegatanianhits8331 Not a very helpful reply in my opinion.

@@anajinn one can fix the root cause of all problems like this.

@@lorrainegatanianhits8331 Maybe, but your reply to this person was unintelligent, uninformative and not the slightest bit useful to anyone.

@@anajinn if you can solve the root cause, doesn't that mean it's useful for someone?

party food = high nitrogen like manure

High nitrogen: manure, spent brewery mesh(grain), Alfa green/hay, any kind of carcase/high protein source.

A bunch of microbes can mine/break out minerals from inorganic materials aka bigger pieces of minerals. This is as far as I know mainly done by fungi and some bacteria but there always exceptions so I'm sure some other little fellas will be able to extract minerals from inorganic matter to. I doubt there's to many microbes that can live of pure minerals most of em need a lot of energy ither from digesting organic material or getting fed carbon mainly sugars from plants. Think of it like stock licking thire salt rocks for minerals just on a way way smaller often super specialised scale.

@@Weiserschakal Nicely said. The way I understand it, they can extract stuff from inorganic stuff, but they feed off of organic stuff. They can also get minerals from organic material. If it is available that way, it is easier. Oh, both bacteria and fungi can dissolve rocks. So burley, eh? We can't do that! LOL I love my flocks and herds! Commando forces, really. I hope all is well there. My garden is exploding right now! Later

#SaveSoil Have you heard of the Save Soil movement before?🌎🌍🌏 You might be interested too

My trials on compacted clay were disappointing. No way liquid of any form can penetrate to any degree to be beneficial. She over simplifies everything. You need to have an arsenal of practices to see a definitive change. She rarely gives specific field trial data. Good luck

@@bluejay3945 what is your advice as to practices to follow

@@jennthomas7418 please be more specific as to what you are trying to accomplish then I may be able to share my experiences. IMO you must put in the initial work to break up the clay and incorporate as much organic material into the process as possible. Over the years I’ve found adding the small turkey grit into my soil helps improve drainage as well. Not sand but turkey grit that is a fine granite. When your soil starts to improve that fine granite really helps with drainage and aeration. Find a quality source of worm castings. Good worm castings are pure gold. I’m able to get a local source of castings and I even buy some from an incredible organic source in Florida. The other component that has shown consistent results is both liquid and dry seaweed. The suite of bio stimulants in sea weed is incredible. Recently I’ve been messing with compost tea, alfalfa, and EM. Mixed results with compost tea but worm castings tea is unbelievable. Alfalfa has really improved my lawn because IMO the growth chemical in alfalfa is incredible. EM applications seemed to improve my veggie crop especially my tomatoes and my orchids absolutely love EM. No solution is perfect so you need to be adventurous and experiment. You will learn what works for you. Can’t tell you how much money I’ve wasted on stupid solutions. If you have specific heartaches let me know and I’ll speak to my experience. Have a great 2023

Do you need to see studies to believe a soil microbiologist? If so, I'm sure you can find them all over the www. Dr. Ingham is showing you what was in the soil before we humans depleted it by using poor agriculture practices. Once you begin to add it these organisms continue to grow and multiply bringing your soil back to life. They don't last a specific amount of time... unless you plough and kill them all over again.

@@ironmaiden3751 I don’t put faith in credentials. If the microorganisms weren’t there in the first place then what makes you think they will thrive and multiply when introduced?

Search for soil food web success storys there's a bunch of webinars where they talk about it.

Fungi in the soils will take care of the petrochemicals in the soil. By inoculating the soil and seeds with a Johnson su compost or a high quality vermicompost, the soil life should start to digest local petrochemical loads over time.

It takes 3 years before they start breaking down if they are persistent. And no the fungi wont get rid of them. They will contaminate your entire garden. Some have found that corn will take up grazon but you can not eat it or use it afterwards. Its not worth the risk after all that work especially if your depending in the harvest to feed yourself and your family.

no known life forms do. It spontaneously decomposes, but almost all will be washed away during a warm-season. Don't focus on detoxifying your soil, it can't be done anyway. Focus on regrowing your soil.

Sun flowers will help clean the soil. But use a variety that can act as a cover crop. They make pretty cut flowers. Helps the pollinators. Just dont till them back in or compost them. Discard on a burn pile or in trash bags. Between that and other monocots will make the process go faster.

Lissten to the rest of the series, she's talking about it.

Silt. 😊

@@spritzpistol thanks. My first language is English and I didn't get it. Heaven help those whose first language is something else. Thank you for responding.

Um my subconscious knew it was silt not silk because of context. She talking all things soil. I heard it

@@neilrowe119 Lucky you. I do not have your knowledge, so how is a newby going to learn when listening to someone with poor diction?

@@neilrowe119 She has poor diction.

He is probably getting paid for showing her content based on the amount of views. That's a guess but it makes sense.

Hey everybody, this one fat arts undergrad knows more than Dr. Ingham, better close up the channel!

I have thought about this quite a bit, and I have studied with Dr. Ingham. Firstly, no one has the total answer when it comes to soil and plant health (interestly enough, in the esoteric/awakening world, there is a all encompassing answer often expressed in in different ways in different teachings.) Secondly, imo, this statement, "There is no soil lacking the minerals to grow your plants" shoud be amended to say, 'There is no soil lacking the minerals necessary to grow the plants that will grow in that soil." hmmm.. a bit of a circular argument! But for me the jury is out until I thoroughly verify that innoculating my veggie beds with biologically complete compost, or its extract, (and no other additives) results in leaf brix readings consistently above 12. If Dr. Ingham is correct when she states that all that is missing is the necessary biology, then the work of growing nutrient-dense food becomes quite simplified. Interesting refs - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bnNOvA3diDU.html AND ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-O2W-Eef8N_U.html