I do sublimation to 100% polyester 400 degrees F for a full minute, and the shirts turn our fabulous. The only time I had any scorching was when then press didn't run true to the temp I set. Because of this issue, I published a video on how to determine your fudge factor for exact temps each time, everytime.
That's awesome David! Of course not all 100% polyester shirts are super heat-sensitive. We've found white polyester and shirts specifically made for sublimation can typically take much more heat than the colors. Which is why we always recommend testing a small portion first. No Surprises!
Help me please. I’ve gone through 5 Sportek shirts. I’m doing sublimation. I’ve done 400- 60 seconds on their blue and it’s a huge square scorched/discolored. I’ve tried 360-30-45seconds, and it’s ghosting. Adjust pressure med/light. I’ve tried 375, 30-45 sec as well.
To be on safe side, on thin polyester shirts, I never use a heat press, I always just use a hand press. And then I never just press down, i do a circular motion, with light pressure. I do this with HTV tho, so not sure if this method works with transfer papers. for HTV i would set it to about 280 - 320 depending on thickness of the shirt, and i never get scorch marks. Granted it does take longer, and maybe not ideal for large batches, I also use this exact method to apply HTV to several materials including leather.
Thanks for sharing your technique! Pressure is the most common culprit of scorching or damage on heat sensitive fabrics. Your right too for HTV, you can get away with a light or medium pressure, where as some other heat transfer types like Screen Printed Heat Transfers do require medium to firm pressure to apply correctly. Have you ever had any durability or washing issues with your application technique above?
Thank you for this video! I’m making some 100% polyester robes for a bridal party and this was very helpful! Also I just signed up for a sample pack! Excited about your products :)
I would greatly appreciate if you could do a dedicated deep dive video on the Hotronix Silicone Upper Platen cover, how it's used with different fabrics, temperature change, using with cover sheets, etc. As well as how it differs from the other upper platen covers. Thank you so much for all the learnings!
Hey D! The silicone upper platen cover is a pretty nifty accessory, however, it blocks a TON of heat. John does a great job covering the features and how to use it here (along with other cover sheets): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UuGpBFi1mfk.html Since it does block a ton of heat, we don't recommend using it (or other cover sheets) here for the screen printed and digital transfers we carry at Transfer Express.
@@transferexpress Thanks for the link! I'm assuming the "Flexible Application Pad" is the same as the "Silicone Upper Platen Cover". Will it have the same effect if I keep the material attached to the heated upper platen as a cover instead of using it strictly as a cover sheet where it has a chance to cool down in each cycle? What maintainenance does the "Silicone Upper Platen Cover" need? I just bought one and I hope I won't have to replace this as often as the non-stick cover sheet.
@@greenlightforce It's very similar, however, the flexible application pad has a texture to it where the Silicone Upper Platen Cover is smooth. It's essentially just a permanent cover sheet. It doesn't require any maintenance and ink doesn't stick to it. However, it does block some heat, so you may have to compensate temperatures accordingly.
Hey, so im working on 100% polyester with ultracolour max and im getting scorch marks still, ive tried adjusting the pressure and ive used a regular steam iron to try take the edges out, but before i buy one of the little irons you suggested, wondered if you had any advice? They are pretty thin tees, dont know if that makes a difference 🤷♀️
Hey Ashley, what style/brand of blank are you using? Im assuming it's likely a dark color fabric? Since 290 degrees is typically safe for 100% polyester you may need to back off the pressure slightly (around medium pressure) If you're using a smaller platen for isolating print areas you may need to compensate and lower the pressure more, this chart for smaller print areas can be a great reference: blog.transferexpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/TransferExpress-Perfect-Pressure-Guide.pdf
@Transfer Express so we bought a brand named "tridri", I've never worked with poly before so figured they'd be alright 🤷♀️ I backed off the pressure as it turns out I had it WAY to tight 🤣 but still got marks. I have emailed the seller company to ask what brands may hold up better, as I don't need to be set on this exact tee, and poly tee will do as long as it doesn't scorch. It was a red tee I used for a tester so I daren't try out any of the really dark ones yet 🤣👍 What's the best way to gauge med pressure? As I've seen your how to on the steals basic saying to check for firm pressure I do the paper test and should just be able to pull it out, is there a magic paper method I can use here? If not, do you have any suggestions of poly tees you guys use that don't scorch as I'm happy to change them :) Thanks for your time and help guys, really appreciate it ✌️ would appreciate a video dedicated to using ultracolour max on polyester and trouble shooting the issues you face as I couldn't find one anywhere.
Ive printing on both Sport-Tek (ST350) and Jerzees (21M) with UltraColor Max and haven't had issues. Both Sport Tek and Jerzees have some good 100% polyester t-shirt options depending on what you're looking for. As for the medium pressure, you can do something similar to that paper test but just look for the paper to be able to be removed fairly easily (if it slides out without friction it may be too light). Just like we kind of cover here, test starting at the lowest heat and lightest pressure and increase until you get to the application temperature. We're always happy to help out- It's what we're here for. Also, That's a great idea for a video, we'll get it on the list!
Hi I’m working on a polyester pique and open polyester mesh with reflective silver. It’s peeling off and I used the curry heat transfer at 315. What am I doing wrong. Is it the paper?
Howdy! We know how frustrating these application issues are, and we'd love to be able to help out, we need just a few more pieces of information to ensure accurate advice. I don't think the mesh polyester should be an issue, but knowing what specific blank garment you are printing on could help too. Things we'll need to know: 1. What specific heat transfer are you using? Is it a screen printed transfer or HTV? What brand? 2. With temp at 315, what time and pressure settings are you using? 3. What heat press are you using?
We've had great luck with Goof Proof (at the lower temperature - 325 degrees) or Elasti Prints. Both are screen-printed plastisol inks and mega-vibrant. If you're worried about heat sensitivity, Elasti Prints is the better option at only 290 degrees for application temp. Either way, the Hotronix Fusion IQ 360 makes printing those foam trucker hats a BREEZE
White or light colored polyester can typically take high heat as they're predominantly made for sublimation at 380-420 degrees. For large, flat areas like a polyester banner, if you experience any discoloration it may be from residue on your heating element- A gentle cleaning with mild soap and water should remedy the issue. Be sure to be using accurate pressure, and with large flat areas, you can typically press each section so the entire banner is uniform.
Oh No! 280 degrees is typically safe for most 100% polyester garments, a couple things can be going wrong- and we can try a few ways to fix it: 1. Do you have anyway to double-check the temperature of the Easy Press? In some cases the temperature can vary widely from display says- in this case, possibly hotter, scorching those synthetic fibers. 2. How much pressure are you pressing with? Premium Plus has a medium pressure application, so you may be able to lighten up when pressing. 3. Are you using a pressing pad or a heat printing pillow ( www.stahls.com/heat-press-pillows )? These pads or pillows can help with press marks when printing with HTV or light-medium pressure heat transfers. 4. You can try heating from the inside as well, with a heated lower platen or by turning the garment inside-out. 5. Are you pressing with any cover sheet? A flexible application pad ( www.stahls.com/heat-press-flexible-application-pad ) can help reduce scorching with an extended dwell time.
Hiya, did you ever figure this out or get the right settings in order to stop getting the scorch marks? I have a project with pretty much the "exact" color shirt and htv that I need to work on using the Cricut Easy Press. Any suggestions will help...please and Thank You!
So we aren't supposed to use pillows, but what if we have a smaller shirt and we can't thread our platen. Can we use a pressing pad, like a spare lower platen pad cut to size, to raise the area of the transfer?
Yep! Something exactly like that! We actually use blank mousepads ( www.transferexpress.com/heat-press-accessories/mouse-pads ) to raise the printing area- they're great for small areas too like pockets on t-shirts or hoodies because you can easily cut them up to fit.
Thank you for this video not sure what I’m doing wrong but I’m attempting to put htv on a Gilden heavy Cotton shirt and I keep burning the shirts 🙄😞😫😡😡
Oh no! The Gildan Heavy Cotton Tees are 100% cotton and can typically withstand temperatures up to 400 degrees, sometimes just the moisture steaming out during pressing will change the color of the garment and appear as a press mark, but after 5 minutes or so, the garment will absorb moisture from the air and return to normal color. Sometimes with sublimation transfers, heavily died polyesters or even fluorescent fabrics (think safety apparel) you may pickup some inks or dyes on the heating element, which may transfer to the apparel and change the fabric color- you can try using a piece of parchment paper to ensure this is not the case (you should see any ink or dye transferring to that parchment paper instead of the garment) If that's not the case, we'd love to help out but need just a little more information: What time, temperature and pressure settings are you using for the application? What heat press are you using? Our STAHLS UltraWeed HTV Applies as low as 260 degrees, which is far below the heat-sensitivity of even full synthetic fibers like polyester, spandex or lycra. Ensure your heat press is set to the correct temperature and is accurate. Time typically won't result in scorching, but HTV rarely applies longer than 20 seconds. Alternatively, too-heavy on the pressure may give the appearance of scorching by flattening the fibers, but after washing any press marks should be completely removed on 100% cotton shirts. Typically HTV should be applied at a medium pressure, which shouldn't leave any marks on the fabric at all.
Thank you for the video. What is the best temp to press at for goof proof transfers on 65%Polyester 35% viscose? I just bought some goof proof transfers but now am sampling new shirts that are poly/viscose so unsure of the correct temp to set my heat press at.
Great question Sophie! Most HTV will work on rayon, however, since rayon is a heat sensitive fiber, it's best to keep the temperature as low as you can. Stahls' Ultraweed applies at 260 degrees, perfect for low temperature application that won't scorch the rayon content.
@@transferexpress Thank you! I gave it a try. I couldn't find any heat settings on google for this blend so I tried it at 270F and pressed a little longer. No scorch marks!
Acrylic beanies are a tough one! We've seen a few videos of spot-on patch application on them without scorching or loosing their shape. We'll get it on the list!
I’m using a cricut easy press on a 100% polyester shirt and I keep getting scorching marks. Any tips? I’ve used a temp of 265 for 120 secs but it didn’t transfer the black Infusible ink completely.
Hey Jacky, the infusable inks are sublimation which requires quite the high temperature. Non-dyed (white or light) polyester can typically take higher heats, but with heavily dyed garments (red, navy, maroon, etc) the heat sensitivity is very apparent. Looking at the application instructions from Cricut, you'll need 385 degrees for 40 seconds for proper application of infusable inks. If you switch to a white garment you should eliminate your scorching issues.
One section at a time. Just press as much as you can and then carefully slide it down. If the graphic is larger than the size of the heat press tape it in place. We did a video on over-size printing where some of the same principles may apply: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BI7pyn9HjL4.html
Don't worry! You'll only be printing one transfer type at a time- Always defer to the instructions that come with your transfers, no need to memorize em all! As for waterproof jackets, that's a tough one, we haven't found any transfers to work with waterproof jackets. There's too many variables from manufacturer to manufacturer to have repeatable success. Embroidery is usually the safest bet.
@@transferexpress hello matey, really appreciate you writing back and answering comments for that reason I've subscribed and be dropping the others who tend not to answer anyone's questions so thank you very much mate, I'm sure you will see alot of ppl tuning into you because u take time to help ppl out top lad hats off to u 😁👍.. I suppose ther is that much u cudnt remember them all cud u so yes will stick to instructions or Ur vids mate thanks again, u know if I am using a teflon sheet to protect the item fully, is it ok to adjust like 10 degrees so it's still getting the full heat? I'm literally just going to have a go and print something out today and see how I get on like can't wait to be going nice and comfy, that much choice on what to do I duno wer to start lol, thanks to you lads for givin me this idea in first place absolutely spot on like seen a vid and thort I Wana do that so managed to save up for 2 month was hard as I don't currently work but got ther in the end and super happy 🙂 hopefully can start my own bizz one day and be able to live nice and comfy and enjoy life again, been a tough couple of year with mental health so hopefully it stays at bay and let's me progress with my printing and designing.. thanks for answering the questions tho matey really good helper I will have to keep tuning in for tips, really want to be able to do waterproof jackets, cheers lad keep up the good work u will have a load of subs soon 100%
Sure can! Just be careful because 95% rayon fabric can scorch fairly easily. Stahls' Ultraweed Vinyl applies at 260 which should put you under that threshold.
I have a tote bag that is polyester 600D with a vinyl layer on the inner bag. I keep getting marks on the images, any recommendations for heat and time?
We'd love to help! Are you getting marks on the image like the texture of the fabric coming through? It could be too much pressure, What transfer type are you using and what are you temperature, time and pressure settings? We decorate on a very similar bag without issues using our UltraColor Max direct to film transfers in this video around 10:38 : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jv4FBgmqMwQ.htmlfeature=shared&t=658
What would be the recommendation for siser easy weed HTV on a 65% polyester? This will be my first project using my vector heat press. And I don’t see where it say peel hot or cold on the htv package. Thanks
Depending on the manufacturer and the color of the garment, the 305 application for EasyWeed should be ok for 65% polyester- test a small portion of the garment first at that temperature like we show in this video. For the peel, it would appear it is a hot or cold peel according to Siser's HTV application instructions: www.siserna.com/files/heat-transfer-vinyl-instructions.pdf
Most uniform polyester can print fine at 290 degrees. You'll want to choose a transfer type (like our Elasti Prints) that applies at that temperature or lower.
Hey Utoo, We focus primarily on screen printed and digital heat transfers here at Transfer Express, not too much in terms of sublimation. We would suggest checking with A-Sub for application instructions. They typically vary depending on the exact substrate you're printing on.
We would be cautious about pressing anything with filling in the garment. Not only would the outer shell be heat sensitive, but the padding inside may also melt under high heat and flatten. The 325 for goof proof may be too high. Elasti Prints transfers may be a better option for the lower application temperature. With any padding in the garment, achieving a medium to firm pressure may be hard. Also, if the vest is coated in a water-resistant treatment you may have trouble with any transfer adhering properly. We would test with one application and a couple wash tests before passing on to your customer.
I’m having trouble using my goof proof transfers. I keep getting scorch marks on cotton poly blends even when pressing at 325 degrees. Can I go even lower with goofproof transfers? And just press for longer?
Unfortunately, the inks wont melt and bond to the fabric at any temperatures lower than 325. What style and brand and color are you pressing on? Cotton / Poly blends can typically take the higher heat- you may see some discoloring from the removal of moisture, but it should return to normal in just a few minutes. Another setting to check is the pressure. Overloading the pressure on cotton/poly fleece or polos can typically cause some unexpected scorching- be sure to stay in the medium range and test a small piece of a garment before pressing the full print area.
@@briizcustoms9543 Yes, we only recommend locking heat presses with adjustable pressure, just like the Hotronix Auto Open Clamshell press we use in this video, or these here: www.transferexpress.com/heat-presses
I follow all the stalhls guidelines, using a hottronix press and I seem to get scorch marks every time. Is there someone I could email to help me troubleshoot?
Hey Anna, absolutely, you can email us at info@transferexpress.com, live chat on our website, or give us a call: 1-800-622-2280. We'd love to help. Some 100% polyester garments depending on manufacturer and the color of the fabric can be very heat sensitive, using a low application temperature heat transfer is key for printing on these.
@@transferexpress How low is low? We have really nice 90% pollyester/10% spandex polos we are doing a still getting press marks at 280 and med pressure because high pressure is way to much for these polos.
We always defer to the application instructions of the material you're using. Depending on the type of vinyl you have it can vary from 6-15 seconds, medium to light pressure and they even vary based on hot or cold peels. So, there is no time, temperature or pressure we can recommend without knowing the exact product you are using. All of our custom screen printed and digital heat transfers do include a application instruction sheet for best results right out of the box!
