Once you've done it, I think you will get the idea. If they are too loose you will feels the extra. When they are right there should be just a little resistance when you slide the gauge.
Basically, snug the lock nut down while holding the adjuster still with the screw driver, then use a socket and torque wrench to tighten the lock nut to final torque, and check again with a feeler to make sure the gap hasn't changed. After a bit of practice, you can get the lock nut close by hand, so you just barely tighten it more with the torque wrench.
I’m searching for help to diagnose and fix my 07 Rincon trouble: grinds when shifting into reverse. A search led me to your vids which are super, but I didn’t find a section of shifter adjustment.
Assuming the oil is correct and it isn't idling above 1250, there is an adjustment on the cable, located under the gas tank and heat shield. I've never had to mess with mine. The book says to work the shift lever from drive to reverse, and stop at neutral. There are two nuts threaded on the barrel of the cable, where it mounts to the bracket. Essentially you back off both nuts, verify that the transmission is centered in it's neutral detent, run one of the nuts up against the bracket, and run the other nut up against the bracket, and tighten. Essentially making sure the lever on the transmission is centered in the neutral position when the gear selector is in the neutral detent. The book also mentions that if there isn't equal free play in D and in R, the I've heard of people getting the outer cable housing pulled out of the socket it sits in, putting the cable way out of adjustment. If people have shifted the machine when the wheels are turning, or have not been shifting gears with authority (shifting slowly allows the gears to grind), you can damage the shift fork and reverse and forward gears in the sub-transmission in the back of the engine. It is apparently possible to access those parts without pulling the engine from the frame, but it might be just as easy to pull the engine. If you did have to go that far into the machine, if it were mine I might take the opportunity to install a big red gear reduction. Anyway, good luck. Hope it is just a cable.
well replacing the tensioner, because its the cause of it slapping around in the block. and the chain, as well as the oil pump chain. the puller tool for it is 260 bucks! (from honda) the only thing i'm worry about is making sure the timing is correct. its skipped a few teeth and is out of time now.
Jumped teeth isn't good. Hopefully nothing else is damaged. I was looking at a thread where a guy took his engine to a dealer so they could pull the TC with their tool, but they didn't have one and just used a normal 3 jaw. It looks like there are timing marks on the cam sprocket that align to the top of the housing and the top of the cylinder when the crank is at TDC via the inspection cap and the T on the flywheel.
Nice video series, very helpful thanks. How do you do the final torque on the tappet locknuts without holding the adjuster screws in place with a screwdriver? Doesn't the screw move, throwing off your adjustment if you torque the nut without holding the screw in place?
Are you just doing the tensioner, or replacing the cam chain? I haven't had to tear into one that far, but it doesn't look like too bad. The head comes off to get to the cam, and the engine cover and torque converter have to come off to get the other end of the chain out. There is a special Honda tool to pull the torque converter, but I understand it can be pulled with a 3 jaw puller if you are careful. If I were to do it, I'd replace the oil pump drive chain and oil seals while I was in it.
@@JeffinTD i didn't do the o rings but did both chains, both tensioner guides and a manual tensioner. It was pretty straight forward. I found a TC puller on ebay for like $50
I don’t have need to mess with one at the moment. If I recall correctly there is just a gland nut type deal where the plug wire attaches to the coil- that just unscrews by hand, and pull the coil wire out.
Hey I got a problem with my 03 rincon that has been running great until recently it just seems to die out after driving for a couple minutes, it never did that with a full tank but now with half a tank it’s doing it. Any idea on where to start with that?
Since fuel level makes a difference, I’d probably start with the fuel system. When it quits, crack the fuel cap and see if it restarts to make sure the vent in the cap is not obstructed. From there I’d probably drain and remove the tank and remove the fuel petcock. There is a fine screen that could be clogged. If the carb hasn’t been cleaned, that wouldn’t hurt as a preventative item anyway. Fresh fuel. If that didn’t cure it, I think I’d consider a spark tester when it dies. Perhaps fuel level is a red herring.
Any idea what could make a rincon run poorly? Runs normally when starting the bike but after riding for a minute the revs don't go high and it won't idle. Replaced the spark plug but the problem is still there.
Ruslan McCabe Running well initially, then running poorly especially at higher throttle can be a fuel delivery problem. You could determine if it is related to the tank vent by cracking the gas cap open when it is acting up. If that cures it, bad vent. Other thing that causes similar issues is a fuel screen/filter that lives in the bottom of the fuel pump canister on fuel injected bikes. Initially the unit was considered not serviceable, but now there is a replacement filter, O rings, and retainer clip.
Looks like it's probably the second thing you mentioned. Thanks for helping. Had the bike nearly 3 years, been great for towing things around the farm. Thinking about getting a second one to replace the decade old yamaha.
www.rinconriders.com/22-maintenance/20689-updated-fuel-filter-info-4-efi-rincons.html#/topics/20689?_k=y9mhmw This page shows part numbers and changing the filter. Kinda a guess that it could be your problem, but symptoms sound right. Probably not a bad thing to do as preventative service anyway.
