Thank you for this video. Has a small fuel leak and needed to open my 128 up to put the spark plug boot back in the wire and after new Amazon carb needed a little more fuel to run on the high side
We had a similar warranty issue & explained to the manufacturer that if they send me the part (for a fridge) it's MUCH cheaper for them than if they have to pay for labor & parts. It took some work, but I convinced them and they sent me the part for free.
I fixed mine, cut 3/4 inch off square end of shaft that go's into clutch and 3/4 inch off lower end of tube, drilled the holes and notch, works good as new, 1hr work
You only have to remove 1 (ONE) screw to replace the shaft. Loosen housing screws, loosen 1 clamp screw then remove the 1 mounting screw. Slide old shaft out, slide new one in...replace the 1 screw and tighten the others...done. No fussing with throttle cable or wires. Never take the housing off to do this repair
If you only wanna loosen 1 of the screws that hold it in place sure... they dont always slide out that way than your fighting with it, feel free to upload a video doing it that way if you want
@@Coakleyfixedit207 And it's still a POS. Just got my upper shaft, installed it and it worked for about 2 minutes and stopped turning the head again. No damage, just wont stay engaged. Looks like shortening the upper shaft about a half an inch is the only solution to get it to stay engaged and work like it is supposed to. Will not be buying another POS husky trimmer, that's for sure.
Great Video, I have a 128 LDX with the curve shaft edger attachment the blade does not turn. It looks like at the upper end of the curved tube where it connects is a black plastic piece that is instered in the tube where the flexible shaft connects. It seems the flex shaft is pressure fit into the black plastic piece and it is rounded off. Do you know if the flex shaft is replaceable?
Hi, I have a Husqvarna trimmer, 128CD. Problem: trimmer head won’t turn, however throttle works just fine. The clutch drum over the clutch also looks fine...except for a plastic piece that connects the clutch drum to the driveshaft. The plastic piece is damaged and I suspect it got that way when the main shaft began to slip because of a loose screw. Oddly, I can not find that plastic piece on the machine diagram at the Husqvarna website. I assume that plastic piece is essential as the drive shaft seems to be too small to make the clutch drum turn on its own. Can you tell me where I can find a replacement for that plastic piece? Or on the other hand, should I just purchase a new universal clutch drum kit that appears to be built with its own metal connector piece?
Can the old one be repaired? Is there a way to be sure you are getting the new version of the shaft assy? I think I'll try to disassemble the old shaft assy and see if I can add a spacer. If nothing else, it could be used as an extension shaft after installing the new one onto the powerhead.
Just came across your video, but everything works it’s just the handle arms ( not sure the term) but it keeps spinning from the main unit. What can I do to stop it from spinning
I assume you mean you have the "bicycle" style handles? If that's the case and they won't tighten all the way anymore or are stripped so they don't go tight you'll need to replace the worn parts, but a trick to get you by is to wrap the shaft where it mounts with a thick layer of heavy tin foil and put it back together this is not a permanent fix but can get you by for awhile
Informative video, but the camera work is terrible…. Can’t see a lot of the crucial instructions …. Either not I’m the frame at all or the picture bouncing everywhere…. Started giving me motion sickness after about 90 sec
Lifetime warranty on the part but not labor and you have to take it to an authorized place which charges you labor that cost double what the part does so you end up paying for the repair anyways.
We had a similar issue & explained to the manufacturer that if they send me the part (for a fridge) it's MUCH cheaper for them than if they have to pay for labor & parts. It took some work, but I convinced them.
If you could please get a tripod or camera mount and not your forehead! Many of the critical actions occur off camera and the vertigo problem is not imaginary!
I just bought one of the yesterday and put some gas in it today and it didn't even last one minute, the head stopped turning, this pos is going back to Lowes
BTW, I saw a video where they only removed the two screws that hold the handle together & hold in the shaft & didn't disassemble the two halves of the handle. The shaft just slid through the whole handle assy. It saved having to re-engage the throttle cable into the trigger. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fLHASsdAAh8.html&t=52
Different style handle, the one I did doesn't have the access hole to the screws holding the shaft in place, you can "repair" the old one but its a matter of time before it slides again the new shafts the sent have corrected the design flaw
@@Coakleyfixedit207 I'll have to look at mine again... I'm pretty sure I have the one in this video. I disassembled the handle when I was trying to figure out how it all works in there. I expected to see a broken spring which would push the drive shaft into place inside the tube - which, of course, isn't what's there. I didn't think I could get the shaft assy out w/o taking the handle apart, but when I saw that other video I though "Oh, I did more than I needed to". Looks like I needed to after all! I pulled the shaft out of the tube. I'm going to add a spacer to take up the slack (end play). I tried to use a Roll Pin, but it broke when I tried to spread it open (hardened steel). I'm going to have to cut a slot in a bushing & expand it, then crimp it back to size Not crimped to the shaft though). Not worth it for a professional to do a repair this way, but I like to try to fix things rather than scrap them.
See if your local dealer will get you the part since its a lifetime warranty on the shaft than you'll never have that issue again, some shops will do that because they still get paid for the repair from husqvarna without having to actually do the work themselves
@@Coakleyfixedit207 Thanks. I was able to get two 1/2"L x 1/4" ID collars, cut a groove, open them, put them on the shaft at the head end of the shaft to reduce endplay to about 1/16. It looks like you could remove the one screw through the shaft housing and loosen one of the clamp screws to slide the shaft out w/o taking the handle apart - but loosening only one clamp screw might not be enough to loosen the clamp (worth a try) That damn trigger/cable end assy is a horrible design. I think I should put it in with a dab pf hot melt glue - and the wires & throttle cable too. But I guess once is retrofit with the new shaft assy it won't need to be disassembled for awhile.
