I just want to say I’m impressed, I’m an electrician and you killed it man, personally😬 I would have had my emt stay in the middle of the boxes but that’s just personal preference. 10/10 you killed it
Yes! Thinking about electricity like water is exactly how I began to understand it. Voltage as water pressure, resistance as the diameter of pipes, current as the amount of flow through pipes. It even perfectly translates with parallel and series circuits.
You should consider labeling the outlets with the panel, breaker #, and amperage. It's best to do it now, and save time when you (or someone that didn't setup the whole thing) has to figure it out later on.
You did some amazing work in your shop on your won which deserves praise, and applause! "Praise and Applause"! I have been doing work like this for my client's and I was equally intimidated; but like you; I found myself getting encouragement with each new outlet box. Thank you for sharing. Well done!
One thing to keep in mind with 3 phase that might not be obvious is that you want to keep the 3 phases balanced, I.e. draw about the same current on all three phases. Great video!
@@KevinCoop1 by making sure that single phase equipment are distributed over the three phases, so basically you should not use the same single phase to power all regular single phase outlets. Hard to get perfect but you just don’t want it too unbalanced.
I really enjoy your channel and your work is first rate. Now as a former "trainer of trainers" I think your voice over work on each video is very helpful. I do notice that you use the term "go-ahead and..." or "went ahead and..." quite a lot during your descriptions of the actions taken. I didn't take the time to count how many times because then I would sound like a petty little keyboard commando, and that is not my intention. I just felt I could mention it to you as a courtesy. Thanks again for all the great videos. I'm still gonna be a fan boy.
Great videos johnny. The workshop renovation series is excellent top class workmanship. I'm currently making my first ever river table build on RU-vid inspired by your channel. All the best.
In a workshop with so many different rooms and areas, I highly suggest breaking out into multiple sub-panels. Making a single run of 4 gauge (80A) is a lot quicker and easier, your individual circuits will be much shorter and if you do trip a breaker there is a pretty big difference walking 5 steps vs the whole way across the building for the reset, particularly if you have to diagnose the cause. Having more sub-panels also makes adding and upgrading circuits much easier as well. The cost will be about the same (maybe even a bit cheaper) once you factor in all of the lower gauge runs, the conduit, fasteners and the time it takes to pull all of those long runs. It's a bit late for this project, but hopefully this helps someone else attempting to build out a space like this.
In Germany we have 230V and 400V. Blue= neutral conductor Green/Yellow= ground Black= external conductor 1 Gray= external conductor 2 Brown = external conductor 3
I don't think that the anti short bushing is required, but it is a good thing to use. The red circular at the end of the connector you showed is NOT a built in anti short bushing. The cut end of the conduit is before that location and the wires a still susceptible to damage, so if you're going to use anti short bushings, use them here as well.
Wish more people in Australia were this responsible with electrical work cause now we have to hire an electrician for anything to do with outlets and running cable
Hey Jonny, I am from Germany and wondering id you do you also have 3 phase? 460V? Here in Germany 400V are standard EVERYWHERE. Also in residential Houses
3 phase 480v is common in commercial and industrial settings here in the US. (Industrial also uses 3phase 600v) However, you won’t find these voltages in residential settings, and most residential is 120/240 single split-phase. Some residential settings (especially larger buildings) do have 3 phase 120/208v
@@N-hunter I am moving to the US next month. We have 230V/50hz here. Can I change the 120V outlets to 240V and use my 230V devices which runs on both 50 and 60hz?
@@N-hunter I am also bringing my woodworking machines to the US. The run on 400V/50Hz. Unfortunately For that I have to buy a phase converter from 480/60 to 400/50... unbelievable expensive that thing..... about 8K
@@StripLV Doubt it, your entire home will be 120 single. Have to get an inverter, pay some fool to hook up as they will not allow unlicensed to install high voltage equipment.
One thing to think about is for higher amperage circuits. The less junctions the less failure points. When you’re drawing a constant 40 amps that can put stress on a connection.
i know hindsight is always 20/20 but next time you have a bunch of boxes with conduit in between, look into using a ‘mineralac clamp’ instead of one-hole straps. It eliminates the need for box offsets because the clamp holds the conduit off of the wall about 1/2”
It looks like he's using Master Bender, a very straightforward and useful app. I use QuickBend as my default - it's great for compound 90 deg obstructions and calculated shrinkage, and also very useful for anyone that's apprenticing or in electrical trade school to understand the radius algorithm in use. Both apps are entirely useful to both novice and professional users.
All UK sockets are 230/240 but we run live, neutral and earth normal colours are brown live, blue neutral and yellow and green earth. The old colours were red live black neutral and green earth we do have a different system as we use ring mains
Hello, Could you help me? And let me know what size and type of wire (solid or stranded) do I need to use for a 50A (outlet for 325A welder) the run is around 55ft. And can I use that run (split it) to install another 30A outlet for a sander that is closer to the panel or should I run separate wires. Thank you in advance.
Watching this as an Australian is sort of hilarious. Metal conduit with self bends instead of PVC and pre made bend adapters or flex tube, 120v existing at all, 240v with 2 hots, those breakers, pig tailing anything. Oh man, I am so grateful for our 240v electrical system here.
An important item to add to your comments about breakers and the panel... make sure to reference the panel (and possibly breaker) for proper torque specifications for all fasteners. Many people do not know or simply ignore those important specs, resulting in connections that may loosen over time (with circuit heat/cool cycles) or may be over tightened (crushing the wire). Receptacle side fasteners should also be properly torqued. Invest in a good torque screwdriver and don't use power tools for the job, in general.
Next time you need to bend a hook in stranded wire, don’t strip off the end. Strip it about an inch back but leave the insulation on the end. It keeps the strands together. Then bend you hook and attach. Leaving the insulation on the tip of the wire.
way did you not go with 3 phase 480v instead of 2 phase / 240V for the outlets so you had the capability of running 3 phase motor's and get the efficiency benefits and higher torque
Electrical work is my nightmare... having only 1 arm rules out ALL electrical work for me. It's been a tough transition. I was ho0ing to get the Bosch drill press as it's an inexpensive l, beltless drill press... but it's wired for Europe power, and no way I can pay more for outlet installed, than the actual drill press
I have found that with the high prices of copper wire, it's often cheaper to run AL wire to a subpanel on the other side of a large space like this then branch off their with shorter CU wire runs. Also makes for future circuit expansion and 240 outlets easier and cheaper.
Just out of curiosity, did you put GFIC outlets in every conduit box location for you 120V run? If you did, they can cancel each other out, as I'm sure you know by now. It happened to me in a garage I built and wired.
AWESOME WORK! However you can use an 8 awg thhn wire for 50 amps if its in a conduit and not a cable, and 6 awg wire can be used at 60 amps. {May save u a good buck} This is because you can run thhn wire at 75 degrees rather than 60, like in a romex cable. This rule does not apply for 10 awg, 12 awg, 14 awg wire!
Wow how come you 240 volt socket and boxes are so big i live in the uk and we only use 240 volts and there are all half the size of yours and the max size breakers we use are 32 amp but all plugs are fitted with a 13amp fuse
That's because your "low voltage" general use circuits are 240 volt. you wouldn't want to run that big stuff everywhere. If you went to a industrial and commercial setting I would expect to see something similar to North America wiring.
Love your videos but damn I had to slow Down the videospeed cous you talk so fast Im feeling seasick :) but i do love the content of your videos 😀 keep on
Gday, its still so weird hearing you "upgrade to 240/220" as its the standard connection here , and see ALL of your outlets dont have a switch on them again as its most common to see thaat here
240 volts - how exotic...... if i wasnt european.... since i am european - why on earth use 120?! who is to blame for that? same dude who figured feets, ounces and yards are a sensible measurement?
I will never understand why are you useing 120 Volts, thet sistem is so expensive on vireing you can cary so much more power with 240/420V with tiner wires, I mean if you need even more power just go for 800V(witch is not thet uncommon in Europe) electricity is safe at any voltage if you follow regulations...
The only clarification regarding 3 phase power/motor connections is the need to understand phase rotation. The first time you connect your equipment make sure to “bump” the motors to ensure proper direction. If the motor rotates the opposite of what you need, you can just swap any 2 phases at the outlet.
