What an age we live in! Not only can I screw directly into metal without drilling a guide hole, but I can find a nice feller on the internet who will tell me how to do it! Thank you!
I have put in a lot of sheet metal screws. But I don't do it everyday. Your video reminded me of what you forget no matter how many you have done a couple years ago. The importance of clamping in particular. I am installing a 5' continuos hinge. The walking reminded me also to start in the center work to outer edge. Very good.
Sir, thank you for this video, not only did you clearly explain to me the information I needed but I felt really good about it... what a great teacher!
Haha, I love this man. My old man was a salesman, and Im a muso so I don't have any hands on experience with working with tools, so from me, thanks for teaching the basics (even though I should probably know better by now). A.
So I’m working on a project and it involves a lot of things I’ve never used. It was kind of a spontaneous decision. And I came upon this video because i couldn’t get my screws in and let me just say I’m that person who was making the obvious mistake of having it in reverse so thank you for this.
OMG thank you. I was wondering why I could not screw in the self-tapping screws I was sold at the auto parts store for installing my license plate. I made up several new words during the frustration.
If you can help it, do NOT use Philips head. If you are not careful you will strip them. Star head is really good for most types of screws but for metal I really like the ones that you need a nut driver for like 5/16 or something.
This is a comment that was posted by Tera GX. We apologize for deleting it by mistake so are reposting the original question with an answer from us. Comment: "I used these to modify my desk and it was great solution for a while. But overtime the holes have become stripped. It's a hollow column so there is no "back side" for me to work with. Are there any good ways I can reinforce or improve a hole these made, while only accessing the hole from one side?" Answer: If you are using these self-tapping screws to fasten two layers of sheet metal together, and the layers are stripped out, I would recommend finding a larger diameter sheet metal screw and install it into this same hole. It doesn’t even need to be a self-tapping screw since the pilot hole is already made, but if it is a larger screw it will grab the sides of the hole and hold it secure.
Chorus with the fans: Great video, Frank! No fluff, not a second lost on out-of-topic, personal opinions or anecdotes. Covering all the common mistakes is what every DIY videos should be about.
Hi there @bigbrakeman1. Good catch! Self-tappers don’t necessarily have a drill point, so self-tappers aren’t always self-drillers. And self-drillers are self-tappers. But you’re right, it is a very common mistake. So common in fact, that the terms are often, in our experience, interchangeable. Thanks again.
@@FlexAbilityConcepts I was poking fun at the instructional video. But I did use this video drilling into a metal stud at my work. Used a larger 21/2” and it worked like a charm. Thanks for the awesome video bough
Self drilling screw* A self tapping screw can tap it own thread but need that initial hole A self drilling screw can drill and tap it's own thread. That's what is used in the video
Good catch! Self-tappers don’t necessarily have a drill point, so self-tappers aren’t always self-drillers. And self-drillers are self-tappers. But you’re right, it is a very common mistake. So common in fact, that the terms are often, in our experience, interchangeable. Thanks again.
Yes, I’m not particularly familiar with the DeWalt model numbers, but any good 2500 rpm screwgun will be excellent for installing these sheet metal screws.
Great video, and great instructor. Question, isn't the sheet metal screw you demonstrate, actually, or more technically a "self-drilling screw"? The screw used in your video produces it's own hole, without pre-drilling. You called it a "self-tapping screw", but don't self tapping screws require a pre-drilled hole, guide hole or pilot hole? Minor discrepancy, just curious. Thank you for posting your video.
Good catch! Self-tappers don’t necessarily have a drill point, so self-tappers aren’t always self-drillers. And self-drillers are self-tappers. But you’re right, it is a very common mistake. So common in fact, that the terms are often, in our experience, interchangeable. Thanks again.
Hi Mike, The screws discussed in this video are designed to be used in sheet metal applications. If you want to “tap” threads into cast iron, these screws will definitely not do the job. You will need to use a “tap” which will cut these threads into the hard, somewhat brittle, cast iron. And before you can tap those threads, you’ll need to drill the proper hole with a drill bit, not a screw. Each size tap has a specific drill size to get the proper amount of “meat” left in the hole to cut proper threads. It is a more time-consuming job, but it is the best way to tap threads into cast iron without cracking it or stripping out the hole. I’ll bet you can find a youtube video that shows you the steps and method on how to do this. It’s just not in our area since we’re more in the metal stud framing business and they don’t normally make cast iron studs. Hope this helps Mike and thank you for the question!
I need to fasten some heavier stuff to the sides of my van. The sheet metal is a bit thicker, (as I suppose a man like you probably know). What way would you recommend me doing it? I need to hang stuff that are 10-15 pounds in weight. I can't use a bolt and a nut cause I don't have enough space, and this self tapping screw looks a bit flimsy.. Is there some other way to do it? And please, oh please don't say rivets cause I don't have a rivet gun nor have I've been using one in my life.... Thank you.
Hi Mark, While these screws do look rather lightweight or flimsy, they are actually rated pretty high in pull-out and shear strength, depending on the metal you are screwing into. If your metal is too thin, the screw connection will not be as strong. When you are working with thicker sheet metal and need more strength, they make these self-drilling screws in larger diameter screws. Also, as you pair up the screws the stability of the connection will increase greatly. So, there, I was able to hopefully answer your question and I didn’t even mention rivets,--Oops, I just did! Hope this helps, Frank
I'm an apprentice sheet metal with almost no prior experience to speak of. Yesterday, a month into working for this construction firm we were on site installing flashings for door frames of the building and for the life of me I could not get the screw thru the metal! I did a few but after a while they kept dancing away and just not going thru. My boss was watching(he's seen me efficiently use a drill before and was kinda flabbergasted at my lack of skill) and the superintendent of the site. It was humiliating knowing they were watching me mess up over and over along with the other trade workers(land scapers, plumbers, etc) My boss made it look effortless. Which didn't help much after being seen fail too many times at what's supposed to be a simple task.Thank u so much for posting this I need the help and pointers asap.
Many thanks for your comment. First of all, Raul, I can certainly sympathize with your situation. Some of the problems I’ve had on the jobsite are still too embarrassing to publish. Once I just couldn’t get a nail to drive straight with my new hammer, only to find out that this new hammer’s face was ground crooked and my co-workers had the same results when they tried to drive a nail with the same hammer. I returned it and bought a different brand. My first guess is that your problem is often caused, even sometimes by experienced workers, when the drill is accidentally switched into reverse. If that is not the case, then, sometimes you just get a bad batch of dull of screws. But, sounds like your boss had good luck with the same screws. If neither of these issues solve it, you may just need to practice a whole lot on some sample pieces of metal. There is a technique, a feel, and practice does help a lot. First, try starting the screw at slower rpm and press firmly until the little drill bit on the tip begins to start a little cutting, a little indent, so that it has something to keep the screw centered. (be sure you have a driver bit, usually a Philips bit, that really fits securely in your screw head, so it doesn’t wobble. That can be a major problem.) Second, now you can increase the rpm as you continue to push a little harder as the screw drills the hole and it can screw into the hole. Hopefully they didn’t just give you, the new guy, a batch of bad screws, or switch your gun into reverse when you weren’t looking, (kinda like telling you to go get a “board stretcher”) to give them some entertainment on an otherwise mundane jobsite. More commonly, it is definitely a skill that can best be learned and honed by practice and time. I hope this helps. Thanks for your question!
Hi Frank, I searched countersinking screws and got your video. Do you have a video explaining how to countersinking without a drill press into sheet metal? Is there such a thing?
Hi Mahmood, thanks for the question. Sorry, but we don’t have a video explaining how to countersink a hole in sheet metal. I typically use a countersink bit in a hand-held drill for that. But since our actual focus is on metal stud framing and our Flex-Ability Concepts products, and we never have a application where countersinking the screws in metal studs is helpful, we just haven’t made such a video. Maybe we should just for fun! Hope you are able to find what you are looking for.
Hi, very helpful, but can you explain something about speed and tork as your doing this. That is an important part that can make you either successful or not when drilling into metal
Hi and many thanks for your comment! When installing these self-drilling/self-tapping screws, you are typically (almost exclusively) installing them into sheet metal. As such, your most important factor will be the speed, along with a moderate amount of pressure to make sure the drill bit on the screw is actually cutting, not just spinning on the sheet metal and overheating. You won’t want or need a lot of torque from the drlll, as that would easily cause the screw to strip out the sheet metal when it is fully seated, creating a looser connection. With less torque from the drill, it makes it easier to stop when the screw head hits the face of the sheet metal, and make that “perfect” connection. Hope this helps!
Ya know, this is exactly what I needed. Right down to the very fundamental basics without jumping ahead assuming the viewer has any clue about any preliminaries. I don't know if you'll see this after 7 years but I really appreciated your thorough, accessible, digestible (short and not overwhelming) video. I found it very exciting to be able to follow it and then feel I could actually do what you demonstrated. Thanks!
Thanks, Frank. I learned a lot. Also, due to the raw thrill of your production, I experienced a massive heart blowout. My people will be talking to your people.
Self drilling not self tapping. All screws do self tap but some drill the hole ss well hence the self drilling whereas others need a pilot hole done before using a drill bit- these are self tapping
Good catch! Self-tappers don’t necessarily have a drill point, so self-tappers aren’t always self-drillers. And self-drillers are self-tappers. But you’re right, it is a very common mistake. So common in fact, that the terms are often, in our experience, interchangeable. Thanks again
Hi Lydia, it all depends on the thickness or gauge of the pipe you’re trying to install the screw in. If it is any thicker than 16 gauge or about 1/16 of an inch I would recommend drilling a pilot hole through the pipes first and then you can install the screws into the pilot hole. Also pipes are a little tricky as the drill point of the screw will try and run off the side of the curve of the pipe. It may be easiest to use a center punch to put a little ding in the pipe so the drill point will stay where you want it and begin drilling the hole. I hope this helps for your particular situation.
I want to hang some wood shelves on the studs of my metal carport. The studs are made out of square aluminum tubes. Most of the sheet metal siding of this carport was hung on these studs with self-tapping coarse threaded screws. Can I use them to attach the wooden shelf brackets for my shelves or should I pre-drill, through both sides of the stud, and use long bolts with nuts?
That’s a great question, but I’m afraid I can’t really give you a definitive answer since there are so many unknown (to me)variables. First of all, it depends on how heavy a load these shelves will be carrying and how deep/wide the shelves are. It also depends on the type of bracket you are going to use. If it will be for lightweight stuff, like fishing poles, or medium weight stuff like small cans of paint , the self-tapping screws should work fine. However, obviously, if you plan on storing heavy toolboxes or your massive (and I’m sure, interesting and exciting) boat anchor collection, then I would definitely recommend bolting through the square aluminum tubes as you mentioned. So many of these type decisions are decided by the carpenter/installer and (in my humble opinion) it’s always safest to overbuild it so that you can sleep soundly for years to come (not wondering about that job you did so many years ago.) Thanks for the great question, and I’m sorry I can’t give you a hard answer.
@@FlexAbilityConcepts Thanks! That's food for thought and helpful! The weight the shelf would bear probably falls into the "medium" category, (pick, shovels, heavy bicycle racks) and it'd be an 18" deep shelf which would span 9 feet (the width of the carport). And it'd only be supported on each end (nothing in between) by the metal studs and shelf brackets. Because of the long time it took me to drill a test hole in those tubular 3x3 studs, I went back and checked them with a magnet and they ARE magnetic, so I guess that means their steel, not aluminum? Does that changes anything?
Nice vide, can use those screws in a metal frame like a cargo trailer frame. I am trying to ground a wire, and totally missed up today. I drilled a hole into the frame, and was trying to drill a bolt through with a washer it didn't work. don't know what I am doing wrong. I just want to ground a wire to a metal frame is all.
Hi Charles, From what I have seen, these self-tapping/self-drilling screws will work well to attach your ground wire to the trailer frame. Of course you’ll want to make sure the trailer frame is clean, for good contact, before you install the ground. Also, if the trailer frame is very thick, you will need to drill a pilot hole, a little smaller in diameter, for the screw so it can actually go through the frame. Thanks for the comment, and I hope all works well!
my hubby has to replace the metal panels on the inside of our commercial building. he was told he needed a particular screw gun to do it. a screw gun that runs at a higher RPM than most. do you have a suggestion for something like this that isn't outrageously expensive? thank you
He’s correct. An actual “screwgun” does run at a faster rpm, making the work easier, faster and thus more feasible. We used to get some really good deals on screwguns at a local supply house, so it might pay for you to check some of the commercial tool stores, or even the big-box stores, to try to find a better deal. Just now on the internet, I found a Dewalt for $80 and a Bauer brand? at Harbor Freight for $55. That’s a great deal for a Dewalt, and a good price for the Bauer, but I can’t vouch for the quality of it as I haven’t used their tools. It’s probably plenty good for the job. Dewalt is a work horse for the wall covering industry. And don’t worry, we don’t sell either and have no financial interest of benefit in these recommendations. But those prices are actually very good deals. Best of luck on your project.
@@FlexAbilityConcepts is there a particular model to look for? w e have had really good luck with harbor freight tools and they have a 100% guarantee. we own a Milwaukee electric drill that I bought him several years ago, but looked it up and it says 850rpm. HarborFreight suggested that we try that first since Milwaukee tools - even though lower RPM - are workhorse drills. I just don't know what to look for. I looked up screwgun at Harbor Freight and found only something called a spool gun. so not sure what to look for there or in a DeWalt brand are they called screw guns? most I see say drywall drills. are those the same thing? . I have no problem ordering from EBAY or Amazon. just trying to find something that will do the job. Harbor Freight has also been a good source of misc tools since many of their tools have lifetime warranties. not the drills, but the tools
@@ssergeant9682 Here’s the description I found. Again, I can’t vouch for this brand, but it should work fine. I believe it’s 4000 rpm, and the Dewalt is even faster, at 5300 rpm. Either speed is quite a bit faster than a typical drill, (which would go 850 rpm plus or minus) and will work fine. BAUER 5 Amp Heavy Duty Drywall Variable Speed Reversible Screwdriver The Dewalt is described as : DEWALT 6-Amp Screw Gun Again, these are just the first two that popped up in a quick google search. There are a number of other brands that will work excellently. I just wanted to try to help you find what to call them in your internet search. So, Screw Gun or Drywall variable speed Reversible screwdriver, will both work in an internet search to shop for your tool. I hope this helps.
Ohhh thank you so much. You answered my questions and those mistakes you mentioned I did most of them and didn’t know what to make it right. Your VDO is very helpful esp for a woman like me trying to do house project by my own.
What is the thickest metal you can use these screws on? I need to secure something on a metal Pope that has 5mm walls. Do you think that would be too much resistance for this product? Thanks
Many thanks for your question. Five mm is too thick for the type of self-drilling or self-tapping screw that I used in the video. The drill bit tip is too short to drill all the way through the five mm before the threads begin to catch. These little screws are made for sheet metal, more like .5 mm to 1.5 mm, or 20 to 16 ga. They do make a self-drilling screw with a long drill bit tip, (before the threads start on the shaft) that is longer to drill through thicker metal, possibly through your 5 mm metal. Just call your local fastener supplier, (probably not just a big box store to get these specialty screws) and they should be able to get just the right screw for your application. Since these are pretty beefy, they will probably have a hex head on them. Hope this helps!
Good video. I like the dry humour.... but as a few others have already suggested already; I think in some contexts/situation - a smaller diameter pilot hole reference is needed if the secondary metal is considerably **thicker** than the primary metal;
Yes, if the secondary metal is “considerably” thicker, it does create its own set of potential problems. First of all, I’d definitely recommend clamping the two layers together so that when it quickly drills through the first layer, it doesn’t start threading into it and lift it up and away from the second, thicker layer, which is going to take some more time to drill through. If the second layer is really, really thick, you’ll probably want to drill a pilot hole with a drill bit, the same size as the drill point on the screw and then run the self-tapping screw through both of them. If the second layer is too thick or too hard for the self-tapping screw to successfully cut threads into, you’ll probably want to go ahead and tap some threads with a tap and install a screw with “machine” threads, such as a 8-24 or 10-24, etc. But that is much slower! That’s why these self-tapping screws come in so handy for rapid constructions assemblies! Thank you for your comment and please don't hesitate to let us know if we can be of any further assistance.
Thanks for you detailed reply. I'm just beginning a small fencing project; and two of the new thin sheet metal post extrusions need to be attached to some existing 4mm thick square section gate posts. Oh.. and one panel edge will be into masonry plugs as well; which is probably drifting off into another topic.
Lol clicked and already know most but enjoyed watching your dry humor. Excellent and throughly explained. These are videos should be made. Wasn’t board at all, LOVED IT.
I'm in metal working, and you would be surprised how many people don't know what a self tapping screw is. So no matter how simple this video maybe I assure you someone is watching and learning from this. So thank you sir.
I teach apprentice electricians basic hand and power tool skills plus how to fix and secure different items to different surfaces. I've used your video many times now - it is simple, to the point and gives me just enough time to prepare their next workshop activity. Thanks!
Technically that is a self drilling screw a self tapper has a thread going all the way to a point and is used when the top piece has a hole and the bottom piece has either a smaller hole or none at all
FlexAbilityConcepts Hi Richard, thanks for your input. Certainly you are correct. Self-tappers don’t necessarily have a drill point, so self-tappers aren’t always self-drillers. And self-drillers are self-tappers. But you’re right, it is a very common mistake. So common in fact, that the terms are often, in the everyday common usage, interchangeable. Thanks again. - Frank
Thank you so much! I'm DIY-ing in an old house, and it's amazing how one can start out thinking one is building in a bookshelf and end up having to learn to repair, fabricate, and install HVAC ducting. At least now I know how to join the parts!
I have put in a lot of sheet metal screws. But I don't do it everyday. (Thanks for reminding me to start slow) Your video reminded me of what you forget no matter how many you have done a couple years ago. The importance of clamping in particular. I am installing a 5' continuos hinge. The walking of screw reminded me also to start in the center work to outer edge. Very good.
thank you for making this video! I have you used these screws to modify my jeep with for fender flares with no scratches! love the video thanks for the help
Thanks for your question. That would be true if the self-tapping screw were not also a self-drilling screw, especially if the sheet metal is thicker than 25 gauge.
Hi there - good catch! Self-tappers don’t necessarily have a drill point, so self-tappers aren’t always self-drillers. And self-drillers are self-tappers. But you’re right, it is a very common mistake. So common in fact, that the terms are often, in our experience, interchangeable. Thanks again.
Hi Leigh Ann, thanks for the comment and question! Well, yes, but not really. These self-drilling sheet metal screws have a drill point on them that removes a lot of material so that the shank of the screw can enter freely while the threads grab the sheet metal on the sides of the hole. This “thread grab” is sufficient with sheet metal, but not so good for wood. When you install a screw into wood, you want the pilot hole to be much smaller (depending on the hardness of the wood, which varies) so that the screw can twist into this hole, and with this tight fit, the threads grab much better in the wood. So, while you can use these self-drilling sheet metal screws in wood, they won’t grab as well as they would if you used a pointed screw and a smaller pilot hole. Hope this helps!
@@FlexAbilityConcepts Hi Frank. How do I search for exactly that screw? I tried "Philips #2 self-tapping sheet metal screws" but don't find something with that exact wording.
Greetings from across the pond. At last! An instructional video that actually gives me the tips I needed. I've subscribed and liked. A big thanks. I'll be watching more of your videos.
Hi Marin, Thank you for your comment. I wasn’t sure if I was using the correct term myself so I started researching what is the correct names for these screws. Turns out, the screws in the video are self-tapping and they are also self-drilling. As it says in Wikipedia, “Some self-tapping screws are also self-drilling”. They were quoting from this website, a screw manufacturer who wrote: "Here’s where the confusion comes from, a self tapping screw can also be self drilling. Basically a self drilling screw is a tapping screw that doesn’t need a pilot hole. They both technically tap their own threads, all screws do this to varying degrees. But, the self drilling screws skip a step in the process. " I hope we have cleared up all the confusion, just remember all self drilling screws are self tapping, but not all self tapping screws are self drilling. So, we didn’t mean to cause confusion when we labelled this video “self-tapping”, but rather we were trying to use the most common names used in the workplace, which I’m sure varies by location. Thanks, Frank
