nice video man, i would also install a rubber grommet to hide the sharp metal backbox where you fed in the cables just so over time any movement in the cables do not cause it to rub off 👍
This is great, exactly what's missing from RU-vid! Like I said on your video a year ago, there were plenty of videos where everything was laid out on a table but none on a real setup. Even your last video was better than the rest since you actually had a ceiling rose, but this is perfect! I have been wondering something about the bypass capacitor. We would get flickering on bulbs like LED bulbs but on a higher powered setup of 20W or more (like my current setup with non led bulbs), there is none. My understanding is the bypass will allow the shelly 1L to draw enough power to prevent the flickering, but does that mean that it is constantly drawing 20W? That seems like a lot for something so small and simple!
Hi! Thank you for watching. I had that exact question (and another viewer ask). I don’t believe it does, since the energy would need to be dissipated somewhere. I wanted to test it but the only ammeter I had at home was a DC one, I’m going to get an AC one from work and re-test!
@@HomeSight would be good to know. I would have asked shelly support, but I've asked them so many questions lately, and as silly as it sounds I'm a bit embarassed to ask more...
Just a note, the bypass goes between the switched live or output & neutral in the ceiling rose. Not the permanent live & neutral. It does look like this is how you’ve connected it & I assume that’s why it works!
@HomeSight, great video. I'm new to all this and really lost with regards to this: at around 4:16 you say you "make" 2 short bits of wire that connect the Shelly to the switch but these don't seem to come with the Shelly - where are we supposed to get these from and what should we buy? All the videos online seem to just have these additional wires appear but none explains where we are supposed to get them from. Thanks so much
Get whats known as twin and earth cable, its the same type of cable you see going into the switch. You can take the brown wire from that. You can buy at Screwfix etc.
If you've got the ceiling rose down to install the bypass why not just fit the shelly 1L in up there where the natural will be? Or am I missing something here?
If I'm not mistaken, it's because power in the ceiling rose will not be "always on", because it's dependent on the switch, which means if you'd be able to turn the light off, but never on again, via the Shelly - happy to be corrected, but that's my understanding.
Andrew, that depends on your wiring setup. I have a permanent live at the ceiling, where as others I know don’t and have only a switched live at the ceiling.
Simon, do you know if the shelly device can be used as a trigger device? I.e. does the device need a load, could I power it and connect a switch then use the switch to control a Zigbee blind or smart bulb (without cutting the supply to bulb) for example?
Hi, yes, you can do that. In fact, I do that with a few things. You can use the Shelly in “detached” mode where the input does not control the output, instead it sends a command. In my case I use the input of an RGBW into node red where I then perform various different things!
@Tables & Wood i wouldn't have thought so. The no-neutral version of this, or any other no-neutral smart switch, needs the neutral at the light fitting itself to "complete the circuit" (picture it as power going through the switch to the light, through the lamp and out on the neutral). So, with only the line (live) connected, the circuit would not be complete and wouldn't work in the way that i first inquired about.
Can the shelly one L be used with a led light fixture which has an led driver in it because I’ve hooked mine up exactly the same and it works when pressing switch but for some reason even with the bypass when the switch is off the leds are on very dim as if there’s some power from the Shelly powering them
Graet videos Any chance you could do a video of pairing a wifi And Bluetooth bulb. I am just starting my hone assistant journey on raspberry pi 4 Thanks Alan
Hi Alan! Unfortunately I don’t have any WiFi or Bluetooth bulbs. I have a couple of Zigbee ones, but I much prefer the switch or a smart relay being controlled.
Omg having exposed live conductors in the wall void is completely against IET WIRING REGULATIONS BS7679 you should always fit a deeper metal box to accept the Shelly module and exposed cables
@@HomeSight so how would i integrate the bypass intoa room with downlighters...where would it need to go....I know its a 20W minimum so most of my rooms wont have the issue but worth being prepapred I guess
@@HomeSight quite possibly...something i need to look into for sure...will see what I can find keep up the great vids...particularly like the full demo with the demo wiring....made things much clearer for sure
Hi Dave, the Shelly 1L is connected to WiFi and fully integrated into home assistant. Check the first part out for that: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UE8XKQlJAQg.html
You should take this off RU-vid immediately. It's dangerous and breaks code. The proper way to do this on such an install requires some drywall work as you have to move the hole to above or below the joist and use a deeper box. Basically NO 240V JUNCTION SHOULD TAKE PLACE OUTSIDE AN ACCESSIBLE BOX, a junction being a splice or a connection to a device.
