How To Install a SUMP PUMP, Do It Yourself Project For Homeowners By Apple Drains Drainage Contracto 

So you waited years to install pump after you found out you didn't have one?

Why do you do that?

@@shanefrank3281 so if for some reason the inlets allowing water into the basin get clogged, the whole basin doesn't float. Also debris collects at the bottom of the basin, if you have a brick under the pump its less likely to ingest trash.

That seems like it would raise the bottom of the pump and allow more water to accumulate before pump in activated.

+coolkayaker1 Oh, and in this video, it appears that Chuck is not using a Zoeller check valve; why, I do not know, as the Zoeller check valves are the best (trust me, I tried others) and Chuck likes Zoeller. I use only Zoeller check valves now, and they need to be replaced every couple of years. If/when the start to leak back, water will re-enter your sump pit slowly when the pump is idle, and it will have to pump more frequently than it should as the pit slowly fills up again from backflow. A new Zoeller check valve is about fifteen bucks (do not buy the cheapies at big box stores) and, since the sump pump does not need to be removed, it takes about five minutes and only a screwdriver to replace the check valve. :-) Lessons I learned the hard way. lol.

+The Cool One How about the weep hole question?

@@Burps___ I know it's been a while, but hopefully you're still getting notifications about replies to this comment. I have a Zoeller pump and check valve in my basement. I'm not sure of their age or the pump's model, but the house is 34-ish years old and I've been here about 4.5 years, so they are somewhere between 5 and 35 years old. :-) Maybe Chuck did the install. There's no squeal from the pump bearings and it doesn't run terribly often. I'm in Ohio, so we get all the weather - hot, cold, dry, and swampy. Sometimes it all happens in the same day. I'm not TOO concerned about the pump, and if Chuck has installed them for 30 years and never replaced one of the ones he installed, then wow I have nothing to worry about. That said, I'm still a worrier. I can hear my pump when it is running. If I'm quiet when it is wet outside, I'll hear a light hummmmm for 15-25 seconds, then a cachunk and silence, and then I'll go back to sleep. How did you tell that the check valve was starting to leak back? Did you hear it running, stop, and then suddenly restart?

@@Burps___ , IS A WEEP HOLE NESCESSARY ?

@@ahaning I’m so sorry that I just got to see your nice message now, when I got notified about a different comment. RU-vid! I live in IL, much like OH. I could tell the check valve was back-leaking only when I noticed that, under same environmental conditions, the sump kicked on more than it did previously. For instance, if it was super dry for a week, and yet the sump kicked on (and likely did other times that I didn’t hear), then it was back-leaking for me only bc I know in the past that dry spells got no sump use, it was static. Gentle rain, used to be sump on every 30 minutes (I live in wet area), but now similar rain yet pump in every 20 minutes, you get the drift. It’s so easy to wait until dry time weather, unplug the sump pump, gently unscrew the collars on the Zoeller check valve and replace it, that it’s worth doing. Why? Even if the pump must run, say, 10% more than it should due to back leak, that’ll burn out the pump sooner, abd a pump is $300, so costs $30 value instead of a $15 backflow value and ten minute job…not to mention if the sump fails early could be thousands in basement damage. I write date I installed the check valve on it, and know that I need to replace it every three years or so for my frequency of pumping. My friend, a plumber, told me to keep a fresh new check valve of the proper size in the basement at all times, because if the valve ever has a failure (crack, leakage, etc) during a storm, it could be catastrophic backflow so I’d be in there wet as a dog but at least be able to swap it immediately. Hope that helps, but by now you likely have already changed yours. If not, how can you sleep at night!? Just kidding. lol

Newbie question why?

@@71sed8edmc19 when the pump stops it allows the water to drain out from the check valve to the hole drilled so when the pump starts again it doesn’t have so much pressure to work against to get the water going again.(So I was told from a master plumber)

@@Robertz37 the pump he is using appears to have one already built into the pump housing I'm not that familiar with the particular model to know for sure but if that is the case there is no need for the hole in the pipe

Actually weep hole should be drilled right above the threads on check valve right at bottom of discharge to prevent vapor locking….. u want discharge pipe to live with water in it….. I’m a basement waterproofer for past 10yrs

@@lrtlar18please help me understand you better. On the discharge pipe itself below the level of the check valve drill a 3/16 hole? My check valve is 4’ up in height. Should re plumb it to be just a few inches above the pit like this gentleman did? Thank you

Just replaced my 15 year old crawl space pump with a Zoeller 1/3 hp pump. That’s not good to hear about replacing two pumps in five years. The pump instructions do point out the 3/16 inch vent hole as you had mentioned. Things like that have not changed in seven years, surprised he did not mention that.

There is also an article out there that the one-and-only, Bob Vila rates the Zoeller 1/3hp sump pump, the Best Submersible Pump. My guess on both of these opinions, is that they were influenced by money. My first-hand experience with Zoeller is that one pump failed under the two-year warranty and the second one (which was installed by the same master plumber) failed in 2 ½ years (so, out of warranty.) I installed a Little Giant Select Series ¾hp Sump Pump and I'll see how it compares.

also, you don't mention a weep hole. (googling leaking checkvavle seems to indicate I may need that)

Yep, I drilled one on mine.....also mine has a backup sensor Float....which takes up like 5 or 6 inches of room!......also my sump space is Really cramped, I didn't even HAVE room for the check valve!

Do professionals typically drill the vent hole? I know Zoeller mentions to do this, but this was not done for my previous Zoeller pump. And I just recently replaced it for the first time, but skipped the vent hole (since the pump already has one). Plus it just seems silly to have water spraying back into the pump when you're trying to discharge it.

Professionals in my area do. I always do with the manufacturer states. Also water going back into the pit is minimal

Just replaced a sump pump, wish I would have seen this comment first. Would have prevented a future mess. Maybe next time I replace it which hopefully is many years. Although, there is the risk someone being dumb and accidentally turning it

No hub bands hold check valve. Do not glue

it'll freeze right above the check valve at the wall line.. not if...when..

Put in a union between the lid and the check valve.

Put in a union between the lid and the check valve.