the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ru-vid.comUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
Beautiful job lot of hard work. Those who can not work keep their thumb down. Good job. We make our factory like this and enjoy our work with lot of saving.
You can just put quick Crete in the hole, you don’t even have to mix it but you still want to pack it down a little. You can put some water on top of it but you really don’t need to, it will absorb enough water from the ground to harden, If you’re really worried about it you can just hose down the ground around it and put some water on top when you’re done but I’ve used a ton of quick Crete for fence posts and deck footings and I’ve also dug many of them out and they’re always solid. It can be easier than concrete in a lot of ways, you don’t have to mix it and you can just drop the bags off by the holes and you don’t have to do any mixing or worry about time. But you do need to use a 2 x 4 or something to tamp it down you don’t want to just drop it in there loosely. Usually I throw some rocks or some gravel in the bottom for wood posts and get the height to exactly where I want it and once it’s plum and level just dump the Quick Crete around in Tempe town with a board or a shovel. This also works for snake and rodent holes around foundation and concrete work. Just put the quick Crete in and compress it and then hit it with a hose and you’re done. On the negative side, it’s very dusty and if you get that dust on your hands or if you get liquid cement on your hands or skin it can burn chemically and if not rinsed off immediately can actually send you to the hospital and be very dangerous, but that anytime you use cement whether it’s wet or not. Gloves and boots and I protection are always a good idea. Some people say you can use expanding foam, and technically you can but it’s not a permanent repair and it’s not really all that strong, I think it’s a lot easier just to dump a bag of quickCrete in there.
Yes, I've used quick set cement without water. It's a huge labor saver. Pour some dry quick set into the hole, place the post then fill with dry cement. Add water per directions on the bag. Hard set within 2 hours. Great video btw!
Thanks for the tip about how to get dirt out of your grass. My grandfather taught me to do this with a stiff tine rake with the tines facing up. Also, if you use a soft tines rake you can spread it over the yard evenly or fill in low spots with that dirt. Then nothing has to leave the site.
Very impressive installation not to mention the product appears to be great quality. The dimensions are definitely critical it seems also. Either way, very nice work!
I’d suggest using a tarp at the very least even dumping the dirt that falls off the auger. Holding it over a wheel barrow would have also been a good idea
Main thing we do different, is put the metal sleeve in the gate post, and screw it inside the post with self tapping screws, then put the post and the insert into the concrete and let it dry a couple days and then install the gate. Gonna be stronger with that metal a third of the height in the concrete
I am 20+ years fence installer, and I had never ever seen anyone building a fence like that! There’s a concrete accelerator called Quick Rok, which is added to quickrete, it takes a few minutes for concrete to set, that eliminates the use pf brace and the job gets done quicker. Also when you sliding the rails in, you start from the post that does not have a rail in yet, that way more of the rail goes inside the posts.
Looks good. I don't see many of these vinyl fences where I live; we're predominantly pressure treated. One concern; if it's a windy area wouldn't that put a lot of pressure on the fence, which looks to be solid all the way through? We use the traditional 1 x 6 boards, spaced 1/4" apart, which allows the wind to partially blow through, reducing pressure on the fence . . .
I was concerned about that too, but these fences are rated for up to 130 mph winds. One storm we had 70 mph straight line winds that took down three trees on our property and my fence still looked perfect afterwards!
That is very unfortunate. However, a wooden fence would add even more fuel to the fire. Thank GOD for those people who were able to live through it. All the fires over here in Oregon lately is a wakeup call to how all materialism is not permanent. Life is precious. I saw lots of death, while in the US Military, overseas. Life is short. Appreciate the Creator with it.
I've watched a few videos on how to install PVC fencing and you've by far taken great lengths in making sure that these posts cure in their rightful position. Not sure that my wife will be helping me dig hoes and moving dirt, but that's OK. You guys rock (yes, pun very much intended) Ha Ha. All kidding aside. I really dig what you guys have done. Thanks for making my fencing project simple.
id like to do a double 4' door too.. looks like not too many people do that. it doesnt look like the included hardware is really meant for that kind of setup. i imagine that the doors will want to buckle in our out. did you improvise some way of holding one of the doors steady with a stake of some sort?
looks like you have to replace 1 post or 2.. the gate post shows the natch on the video. but next day when you are installing the doble Drive gate is gone..? and you're pretending to use the drill...and the aluminum insert is to short is have to be 9 feet long and looks like you use 8 feet or you cutt the post.. the aluminum post goes in the hinge post when you pour the concrete..
Question... how much would that have cost if jo public bought and installed exactly the same amount you did ? In the UK it would probably be double the cost.
If you ever do something like this again get a kitty swimming pool and cut the middle of it out for the auger and all the dirt will fall in the swimming pool
@@WelcometotheWoodsBlog Thanks. Where do I buy them? Does it make a difference or they are all made from the same quality? I believe I will have to show the installer this video. I usually see they install it without cement.
That's how she dresses in front of a documented published video, to help others. So without a fence, this is how she looks, with a privacy fence...uhm...
Another tip for the cement once you have your post in the hole all level, is to get a dry bag of quick set cement and pour it dry into the hole around your post, re level and check your post is in line still(2 people works great, one person to hold the post and check the level, the other to pour the concrete around the post), then tamp the concrete down around the post with a steel piece of rebar to eliminate the air bubles and that makes it stable enough to be able to build the fence completely without having to reinforce your post or hold it in place or wait for the concrete to set. Once the fence has been built then go back and make sure its still level, tamp it down some more and then wet your posts, works extremely well and you can build the whole fence in a much quicker time frame. Concrete sets nice and firm. Have been doing it for 30 years and i have had no complaints. It elimates the need to have your yard open for an extend period of time to, you can get a fence down and back up much more quickly, and it still be super stong.
So you pour your wet cement in the hole, set the post in, get it plumb. Then pour in some dry cement on top of the still uncured cement and use rebar to get rid of air bubbles (and maybe do just a bit of mixing in the process??) and make sure your posts are still plumb and that's it? If you do this, when can you assemble the fence?
