Hi - I'm really enjoying watching a van build out by someone who has the skill, knowledge and uses the right materials (80/20). You mentioned placing a magnet in the work area to capture the metal pieces while drilling or cutting. I do the same thing but put the magnet in a Baggie or equivalent so once there are a lot of metal particles on it I hold the bag over the trash & remove the magnet. It's a lot easier than cleaning the magnet & it reduces the chance of getting a metal filing in your hand.
Re: the bolt alignment problem, always try to install all the fasteners before tightening. This gives you the maximum amount of wiggle room. Most times the slop can be used to get all the fasteners in without enlarging any holes, then tighten them all. Cheers!
• Same exact 22 USG water tank at plastic-mart.com (where I buy tanks for builds) = US$179 • 22 USG @ 8.43 lbs/gal = 185+ lbs. So, plan on ~200 lbs. all in for weight distribution considerations. • 1/8" flat bar stock, either aluminum (much easier to work with) or steel (must coat, as well), is sufficient. Either two straps, roughly dividing the tank into thirds is sufficient for the 200 lbs. load. For those preferring a "belt and suspenders" approach, three straps, with straps a quarter in on either end, as well as one halfway along the length, is the plan. For reference, 1/8"(H)x1.5"(W)x8'(L) stock is ~US$25 at a big box store. • Use thin elastomeric (not foam) strips on the top of the tank (six points, front, middle and rear, both left and right sides), as well as on the top of the transverse straps. This to prevent vibration and wear as this should be a snug fit. • Use only Grade 5 hardware, never general purpose fasteners for this type of application. • Use Loctite Red 271 on all bolts for permanent hold. This to prevent loosening due to vibration. Nuts can be removed with the use of heat to melt the cured Loctite. Including the tank, flat bar stock, hardware (including plus nuts), you're looking at a sub-$250 install that's totally DIYable. Note that this doesn't include fittings and tubing. But neither does the ~US$700 installation demonstrated here. A grey water tank only requires an inlet, drain and vent, so maybe another US$25 to US$50. A fresh water installation adds an outlet and pump for another US$25 to US$50. So, US$300 on the high side for grey water, and US$350 for fresh water. *Lastly, if using a translucent tank for fresh water, consider applying paint to make the tank opaque to prevent algae formation due to exposure to light.*
Thanks for the informative comment. Could you please let me know how I can research on this "belt and suspenders" approach you mentioned? I tried googling but couldn't find much info using those keywords
For all Promaster owners, RB Components does not offer anything for us. They are strictly Sprinter/Ford folks. I guess some of their inventory can be rigged to fit a PM but I refuse to purchase expensive items not specific for PM. Regardless of this common annoyance for PM owners, I appreciate all the information you share. You are creative and put so much thought into your build-- just love it! Thanks for another great video!
the box on the bottom is needed to stop the tank moving back and forth also if you shorten the vertical brackets and use threaded bar you can tighten the tank up snug.... so i would use angel iron get it welded at the local shop and add the brackets just like your kit but with the treaded bar for adjustments
This tank was meant for potable water because of the 1/2” fittings. If I were to use it as a grey tank I would definitely buy the kit to replace the inlet and outlet fittings with larger ones. I was thinking about using that exact same tank but $700 is a bit much. I will definitely check on the custom tank you mentioned. Thanks, good job.
you may need a tank heating pad to keep it from freezing up in winter weather. it will drain your batteries if left on too long. or if your not plugged into shore power .... just something to be aware of.
My van has the water tank inside and the holding tanks underneath. You can put antifreeze in holding tanks. It is nice seeing someone actually installing tanks, very few do.
Ah that’s good to know. I’ll probably put some antifreeze in there. Planning on dumping often (since it’s just gray water) but it’s nice to not need to worry about capacity.
Seven, the correct term is to ; 'elongate' the hole, so creating a slot on one side! This is a common practise in Engineering, you can also use a round file to create the same effect, great job though ! cheers dx
Seven O'Savage oh ya filing is good advice thx David, though perhaps an electric file bit would make for easier work . It’s all in what you have access to. Good of you to show the trouble shooting aspects of the build Seven! And WHAT was that attachment you used on the drill? Looked like it re-angled the drill for easier access! You have all the right tools at your access, I should come to your casa. Work on creating a shop where people can come diy for a fee to use tools like the have in the city to work on ones motorcycle! Seriously no one has done that here on RU-vid, you would have many “ followers” lol. Literally people lined up to work on there van (3 vans max a month or whatever...) with all the tools needed. All the van filming action comes to you! (for a monthly membership $$$$)
Bad idea in cold climates and winter. It'll freeze and we all know what happens when liquids freeze and expand. Cheap solution: add RV / Marine antifreeze to tank. Better solution: install holding tank heater pad to tank. Best solution: install a tank heater, same idea as heater pad but more expensive and durable. Any of these can be found on Amazon.
Hmm that's odd, I'm looking on Amazon and can't seem to find them anymore. Heater pads are still available though, not too expensive and easy to install: www.amazon.com/Facon-Holding-Trailer-Automatic-Thermostat/dp/B01MT9EUG9/ www.amazon.com/Upgrade-Version-Facon-Automatic-Thermostat/dp/B077VLB1KK/
Nice work ! So many people use galvanized plumbing strapping to hold tanks under their van which is insufficient .Works well inside to hold one down to floor but why people think that's a good idea is beyond me BTW It rarely just "bolts on" Lol
"...a little leak here & there ain't gonna kill you. " 😁😂😁 As usual, another well presented how to. It's truly a pleasure watching your videos. Concise & to the point explanations, no hemming & hawing or mindless repetitions. You should be a teacher, lol. 😁 Good on you for showing the mistake & how you dealt with it. Also for explaining how to DIY the project. Good luck with what's left to do. I'm getting quite impatient to see the end result. 😃😃😃
I’m hoping you’re using nylon locking nuts and or some lock washers and or some Loctite also if it was me I would put the bolts down and then nuts up that way if they ever came loose at least they would be in the freaking holes
SEVEN,,nice job, I had used those p /nuts a long time ago,,and 3 guys had zero idea they even existed, & I have a really good quality rivet tool also, , some just blind fivits& some threaded too, but for real strength, those p/nuts are the boss, now we will await fresh,,+ grey,,or you, will put gray into the black tank,Cheers From NJ🇺🇸
Just finished every one of your videos! I am prepping to start a Van Build here in the spring, and have been just watching and learning and taking notes as I go along and man... your videos addressed so many questions I have had while watching others videos! I was wondering what other resources you have used along the way? Any channels/videos you've learned a lot from?! I am stoked for you to have this awesome build finished, and as per usual when I come across (now my 2nd) channel that I am most definitely a subscriber and follow of, I just want there to be MORE VIDEOS. 😅 Keep it up man! and thank you for the awesome & informative content!
Hey Man, great video. I appreciate your honestly when things don't go perfect. But it looks like you come with a excellent solution very quickly. You were worried about the tank being visible from the outside. If you painted the tank bracket bolts black I don't think anyone would notice it at all. Thanks for the videos, and your efforts in creating every aspect of your van build to be the best that you can possibly make it. Thanks for keeping us stoked!!👓👓 Bruce
Another fantastic video! Thank you for sharing! One thought, if someone making their own bracket prefers to have added support, perhaps they could use a piece of angle iron running the length of each side of the tank that can rest on top of the brackets you mentioned. Again, great video! Thanks again! Mike
What are the plus nuts made of? My concerns are long term integrity. Also, something I've learned through the years, put all the nuts on loose, then go back and tighten everything up. This will often save you from drilling extra holes.
Sally Pickering you can buy them in stainless steel which is a good option for exterior (I typically see them called Rivet Nuts). However you’ll want to use anti-seize thread compound to lubricate threads when installing - downside is that stainless binds (“galls”) easily without it.
Everybody has an opinion so thanks for putting your thoughts out there for us to sift through and learn from. Iʻm struggling with mounting a grey water tank on my Transit van and like your DIY brackets because the tank can be removed for repairs and service. My biggest challenge is getting a seller to ship a tank to me in Hawaii..... Maybe silly questions - can plus nuts be set with the same tool I set rivnuts with?
Hey Seven, Nice Job! You make it look easy. Thanks for making the effort to share! Another inexpensive DIY suggestion is to use Threaded Rods & make 1 -1/2" Angle Brackets with Angle Iron Pieces to fasten the Threaded Rods through & easily adjust the Heights. Angle Iron with 2 Holes across the bottom of the Tank to hold it in place. All easily available from your Local Hardware Store.
@@seven_o_savage No. Mine is inside a 30x24 base cabinet I'm using as a sink. I have the tank, water heater, filter, pump, accumulator and 7 gal gray tank all inside cabinet. I still have room for undermount sink.
I assume your'e not gonna be in cold weather is so will you have a heater under the tank? Also don't use that clear tubing the weather will destroy it. use pex but make sure it is covered because UV rays will destroy pex. Great job on the framing
Great video Seven...thanks for posting and timing is perfect. I purchased and am ready to install the same tank/bracket from RB and next build will be DIY as well. Curious...How did you make your drain connection to the 1/2" port on the tank? Also, have you had any drainage flow problems given it is only 1/2" inlet?
While you make an excellent point about not spending money you don't need to spend, lots of local welders out there that can whip up some brackets for you for a few bucks. Also if you center punch where you want to drill you are going to get better results.
"YOU'LL BE TOTALLY FINE" - Who needs math anyway. Just take his word for it. By the way. The lower steel bracing should be a hat channel design versus just flat sheets of steel.
it's not necessary. The rotomolded tanks are insanely durable. But can be ordered online from hundreds of custom makers in the USA. Just make sure it has at least 3 ports. In/drain/and vent. The frame can be made from mild steel angle iron available just about anywhere hardware is sold. Flat bar stock also available in the same place. You will need a part off cutting wheel to cut it. But of course I'm sure you already knew that :)
I agree with this. I had to lower the fuel tank on my sprinter and added a few pieces of this super-hard microcell type foam material wherever there was a gap, then tightened the tank up against it. You'll want to avoid any sort of motion. Over time there is nothing good coming from parts with the ability to jump/wiggle around. Mine was a quick, $20 solution (the stuff is pretty spendy for what it is, but well worth it).
Found your channel and lots of good info on van conversion. Thanks for sharing. Maybe I missed it but did you use AGM or LiPO batteries? I see SendIt hat and a ReactConf'17 T in vids - just curious, u build React Native apps for SendIt for work? - good remote from van type of work esp. with WeBoost to get useable LTE data in more remote places (until Starliink or OneWeb open up even more remote options).
I noticed the water tank is slightly lower than the bottom of the fuel tank, have you ever had issues hitting it on speedbumps or when you go off-road?
I did a diy gray tank and water tanks from scrap. Just didn't have the money for 'real' ones. My whole van had been done on scrap or cheap, even the van came with a ruined engine
The reason for the longitudinal bracing is to support the plastic tank. 22 galons of water is a couple hundred pounds. Resting a couple hundred pounds on a few square nches of plastic isn't ideal.
Seven o savage I know you put MB roof rails on your van. Where did you buy your T-bolts for the rail? I have factory roof rails and can’t find T Bolts. Thanks I love your videos. Dolphindave
Nice DIY bracket, but what about front and back bracing, is gravity alone stopping the movement of the tank forward and backward on quick van stops and starts? Also, might there be abrasion issues between the tank and the bracing?
Haven't taken any footage of the gravity drain yet, but there are so many good lessons there I really need to make a video on that... Yep, I did an electric ball valve drain
you can use "L Angle Iron" www.google.com/search?q=l+angle+iron&rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS741US741&oq=l+angle+iron&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.13907j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 , use a grinder to cut to size, and weld it into the frame. you . may also want to insulate it if you can to reduce the sloshing sound of the water and perhaps freezing issues. Overall a very well done install.
I wanna fo this so bad but i love out west mostly in the mountains. It will freeze trust me. And gray water just drop it. Ive been in a van for almost 10 years watch out for fakers.
The tank was too low in my opinion. The van looks more off-road, with all-terrain tires and maybe even lifted a bit, but the tank reduces the clearance for no reason. It isn't even drinking water.
Always loose fit all bolts, then tighten and maybe you wouldn't have had to drill out the last one to fit. Just an observation. No criticism intended. Otherwise a great install.
It's illegal to drill holes in a chassis unless it is approved by a chartered automobile engineer, your vehicle is technically illegal without a chartered engineers sign off certificate
Um you should have had all four bolts in the braces and tightened them up little bit at a time all the way around!! That's how your supposed to do it!!!
pff. i was here ONLY to see how the fittings go and how do they work to the pump etc. Video is 17mins long and I watched it!!! The most important info for me was missing. pfffff.
