Best to start with a nail on inside or hard wire so u can feed it up to outside so that u know exactly where u are on inside. Also the top of turbine should be level with the pitch of roof. Also why didn't you finish sealing the rest of the shingle areas around the base? I always do that because it helps with leaks. I also cover my nails as well because I never take a chance with my work.
I see there's a higher roofline there, is there a partition in that part of the attic that prevents the hot air from rising to that other roofline? Just curious, I've heard that any venting below the highest point just acts as an intake at best
That's exactly right. This portion of the attic was partitioned off totally. That is why it needed a vent of its own. The owner complained of an odor in the living space (den) below this area of roof. These turbine vents do not act as intake vents. They are strictly exhaust only. They will not allow air to go in. The rest of the roof was vented properly. So, this install will not affect the rest of the attic intake/ exhaust.
Put a wood screw in the center of your circle before cutting, so you have a handle to lift out the material once it's cut free. Use sazall to cut shingle nails around the open area.
Damn house builders do as little as possible to save as much as they can. these should be standard on any roof especially in places like Texas and Louisiana and any hot region.it's over 150 in my attic.
That's true and I agree with you on that, however guess you could say that they let the homeowner make adjustments on their own after the house is sold.
*Well-made, delivered quickly, and easy to install with **Fastly.Cool** . I may be imagining it, but it seems quieter than the 14 year-old unit that I pulled out. Of course it was noisy at the end due to failed bearings, so hard to compare.*
Great video. First time homeowner and some 60mph blew the fan off of the roof, breaking it in the process. This at least gave me some idea how to replace the whole thing. Simple enough for a 1st DIY project.
Well you didn't show where the flash went. The top of the flange goes over the paper then the water gets under the flange if it goes under the paper and how did you get it under the paper? Since paper overlaps starting from the bottom how could you just take a roof vent or a roof Jack or anything else and just staple it to the top of the paper and expected not to leak?
The shingles are the primary water repelling material. Tar paper is the last line of defense if the shingles fail due to damage or failure of the shingles. The flange does not go under the tar paper, it simply slides under the shingles. The Lomanco turbine vent is one of the best on the market. This install does NOT leak, but I understand why you might think it would leak. Do you have any specific question for me that you need advice on for your turbine install?
This one is 14" in diameter. The hole varies in size depending on the size of the turbine. Most are either 12" or 14". Typically you will need 2 of these to properly vent a 1500 square foot attic.
The one that’s on the highest part of my roof is at a tilt, the other two that are on lower parts of my roof are straight and seem to spin more. Was the one at a tilt installed improperly or does it matter?
It's best to have them as level as possible, a small tilt is no big deal, a large tilt may be from damage or carelessness and may affect the turbine adversely. Also, water may gain entry with a severe tilt. Get it checked or better still, replaced.
would having a 15 degree tilt cause damage to the bearings inside? Mines at a 15 degree tilt on one of the whirlybirds. I tried leveling at the colar but seems its a manufacturer defect. No matter how many times i tried it still would end up crooked on one angle. Is the one on the farthest one seem ok? ru-vid.comQhQfr6FdhkM @@highqualityhomemaintenance7565
I like your Video but jumping and not showing the work is not good. I want to see the whole Job. The swearing , and frustration are all tbe drama! Lol! How did you determine where the Rafters began? Did you go in the Attic just tapping for the Rafter location does not cut it? I can't tell the difference in sounds? I have two to install I am going in the attic and drilling Center hope first.
Typically, a roof only has 1/2 inch sheeting. It's very flexible. A man can tell by doing a squat motion if the roof gives under his feet. Do this several times to verify location of the "soft" spot. Make your hole there, typically the top of the hole is 9 - 18 inches from the peak.
How did you make sure that you were not going to hit a joist before you started cutting. Did you leave that out of the video on purpose? With my luck I start cutting a hole and hit a joist right away,lol.
It is quite simple to find the joists. On a normal roof, the weight of a man will make the area between the joists bounce a little. A joist will not give.... or give very very little. They are typically 2 foot on center.
Because you want the water to escape. By placing a shingle on top of the lower flange you run the risk of trapping water and having it back up and it may gain entry to the structure.
Here is an example of that problem. Watch "A sneaky roof leak around a vent hood." on RU-vid ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ng4pC40LKVs.html
Absolutely. You can even put the screws in, at a different location if the old screw holes are ripped open. No need to do any shingle work if you don't have to.
No, you can not. I mean, you can, but you will not be helping your cause. Can I assume you are having a loss of heat or loss of cooling through your attic? If everything is working, what you have should be adequate; however, you should remove the gable vents and the ridge vents and then employ the whirly bird turbine vents in order to keep the attic as close to the same temp as the outside.
@@highqualityhomemaintenance7565 thanks so much. I just keep thinking that with a whirly bird that it will suck out the floating blown insulation fibers that hasn’t settled
@@Schen-0532 First, you should trim all trees that overhang your house. Trees are a good way for large animals to get on your roof. Don't let large animals get on your roof, and they won't get in the turbine vent.
@@Schen-0532 realistically, the only animals you should be worried about are the rats. The simplest solution is a blown in cellulose (it is chemically treated and is pure poison to the vermin), but if you want additional protection, vermin proof every possible point of entry with wire mesh and a foam sealant.
We have a roof with metal shingles...It is a great roof with a 50 year warranty but for some reason they placed no turbines on the roof and the attic is smoking hot. Can these turbines be placed on these metal shingles?
Generally they use a shingle that has a venting capability. But yes, they can be used on them. The ridge caps will need to come off and a row or 2 of shingles. Then simply figure out where you want them and install them. I know I can do it, hopefully another contractor near you can do it as well.
@@highqualityhomemaintenance7565 Great info and thanks for the quick reply! As a realtor here in Birmingham, Alabama, I am always curious about roofs and venting options. Have learned a lot on this site!
Where is the best placement? I'm thinking of installing 2 on each side of the peak ,one in front and one in back, caddy corner. It's for a remodeled garage apartment. So I'm thinking the best place for one is over the kitchen since it's the hotest area? And the 2nd in the opposite corner of the room? Garage room is 16x19, what size/diameter turbine do you recommend?? Avg. 106° in summer.
The instructions are on the box exterior, but from my experience, 2 will vent most buildings. I always use the 14" bird over the 12" bird. Placement will be as follows for a 19' long building with 1 foot of soffit overhangs on each side (21' overall roof length) . Place them both on the same side of the roof, measure 6' 6" from each edge of the roof. That'll put you about 5' 6" into the attic on both sides. That should leave about 9' center to center between them. Think of them as a tornado, the vent is obviously the center of the tornado. Imagine concentric circles around each one. As each circle gets further away from the center they extend toward the edge of the roof and the other vent. You want the circles to touch each other in the middle at the same time the same circles touch the outer walls of the building. Or better yet. Think of them as boobs with nipples. The boobs should touch each other at the same time they begin to reach the armpit. My point is that will give you even venting. Modification may be necessary for complex and irregular attic spaces and rafter placement. This is for the most simplistic garage (rectangular) building.
@@jat-justamaturetech-philpj8285 Your intake should be the lanced soffit. These are active vents and will only pull from the attic. If there is no intake at the soffit, they will still move air, just not as good.
The pitch of a roof, let's say 5/12 (rise/run). 5" is the rise (the vertical dimension) for every 12" of run (the horizontal dimension). A chart/ template also comes with the fan to ensure you determine the proper rise/ run. The directions are fairly understandable.
Yes, it appears that there is little insulation. This is a dormer feature installed on top of the main body of the house. What you saw was the sheeting that would have been the roof if the dormer was not installed.
Hi David, Like anything, maintenance is required. Your roof (shingles) will allow water in after their life span has been exceeded. You must then replace the shingles. If you replace the shingles and have a turbine vent on the roof, you should replace the turbine vent too. In many cases the turbine vent is very old and inoperative (past its expected life) and I see new (less than 10 years old) shingles. My question is, when you buy a new suit, do you wear your old worn out loafers, or do you buy a new pair of shoes?
@@highqualityhomemaintenance7565Thanks Mark but I understand what you said above. I was referring to the rain coming in though the vents as the turbine spins. I was told that rain woudl come though the vent holes by two people and then two people said that rain would not come though the vent holes.
@@davidhazen2394 I see. The design of the turbine at rest (no wind) during a rain event will not allow water in. The same turbine in motion (wind of 4 - 200 mph wind) during a rain event will deflect all rain and repel it from entering. A non functioning (no spin) turbine will allow rain in during a wind + rain event.
David. I'm going through my old comments. I've done discovered that not all turbine vents are equal. The Lomanco turbine vent (in my opinion) is the very best on the market.
1. This won't spin at about 3 to 4 miles an hour of wind. So the chance of bugs infiltrating when it's not spinning is insignificant. However if it becomes damaged and will not spin, then the insect infiltration can begin in Earnest at that point. 2. There should only be one style of attic vent on any given roof. 2 or more will create a short circuit of the systems of ventilation on an attic, the ridge vent and whirlybird vent do not work with each other. The whirlybird vent does not work with the gable vent either. All venting systems will only work properly as a standalone feature.
@@highqualityhomemaintenance7565 thanks. So basically I have to close up the end wall vent and the ridge vent so the only vent is the whirlybird. Ok I'll try that n I'll let u know the temp. On a hot summer day it pond thermometer 🌡at 120 hoping to get it down to 90 or 80
@@paulwicks254 Keep in mind, you need proper soffit air intake. Free air, that can be drawn from the bottom (soffit) and released / exhausted from the whirlybird.
@@paulwicks254 No soffit. Then your attic will always be hot. In my opinion, your best bet will be closing ALL other attic venting and installing whirlybird vents. Lomanco brand vent. Next best option is the gable vents. Ridge vent is the worst.
@@highqualityhomemaintenance7565 thank you. I was thinking that might be the case. I asked for turbines with new roof and was told ridge vent was better. Better for them. Not my attic temperature I think.
I think these turbine vents are really ugly even when they work properly. Driving around in my neighborhood, I have seen at least 6 or 8 houses where it looks like their round turbine vent has become dislodged from its original installation and those round vents are just dangling sideways off of the vertical pipe. So just the metal tube sticks up from the roof and it looks like the round turbine vent is only being held onto the side of the tube by one or two screws or nails. We get wind gusts up to 60 or 70 MPH here every year, so perhaps the wind is blowing all these turbine vents off of their pipe tubes? How are these turbine vents becoming detached from their tubes in my neighborhood?? What happens to these homes' turbine vent tubes when their top turbine gets detached and just dangles on the side of the tube? Does that mean there is a big open space for rain and snow to fall straight into their attics?? A lot of these houses with their detached turbine vents have been like that for several years now. These are all two-story houses, so these homeowners cannot even see their damaged roof turbines from their front or back yard because you only notice the detached turbines if you look at these roofs from a distance away.
Claire Jordan Hi Claire, I understand that everything eventually fails. The turbine vents I install, have a lifetime (50 years) guarantee. Many of them that have failed are due to a lower quality turbine, or have been in use for well over their life. If / when a new roof is installed on a house, the cost of a new turbine is much less than a shingle over vent when factoring in labor costs. The winds you speak of do not come close to damaging these turbines. Hail may be a more likely cause, or even human error. As for the appeal of these vents. I don't make them, I don't paint them, the reason they exist is to provide a venting option when typical venting is a poor solution to venting complex roofs. It is possible for them to leak when they no longer rotate, and the homeowner should take responsibility for the maintenance of their home. However, you could put a note on the door of the homes where you see the vents are damaged or inoperative. Marc High Quality Home Maintenance
