I'd like to mention that the chain catcher roller is missing from those longer spikes/dogs. Since you kept the original chain catcher it's not a problem. The roller chain catcher can help stiffen the bottom of the spikes so they don't bend as easily. Some of the aftermarket parts can be very thin. Just be very careful that your original chain catcher is not bent or damaged. It's a good idea to keep a spare one on hand.
Flapper-Disk was a great idea for your little re-shaping fine-turning job... I’ve found that with all the cheaper China aftermarket type parts that as long as you understand that you are the final QC inspector or final finishing station...you will need to ease and edge or make those little adjustments... you can save some money as long as you have a basic set of skills. I kinda find that rewarding myself... like taking a Farmertec kit saw and adding some OEM parts...basically when you are finished with it it’s a “Dave’s” saw... with a combination of part’s both aftermarket and OEM then it’s “your saw”... you “manufactured it!”... I love adding the meteor topend kits to the cheaper kits and getting a century of hard work (commercial) out of a few hundred dollar not a thousand dollar saw! I’ve gotta do some homework on the 261’s... I’ve got a new cm that has broken cases...tossed out of the tree it’s first day on the job and a 261 adjustable carburetor different cylinder style...not sure if I need to swap over the intake too???
@@DavesSmallEngines I just don’t like the high rev situation... I don’t want a saw to be able to spin 13,500-14k... I want the ability to richen my mixture and be down around 12k max... then the saw will work for years no matter who is on the trigger... seems the younger guys really like to hear them scream! Or the less experienced guys who don’t feather the trigger near the end of the cut or while limbing.... the 026’s are legendary for spinning 13,500 for a decade...I have several tree removal guys who keep a few going as they are their chipper saw’s... 16” 3/8’s setup...fast and light... my buddy Dave runs a 261cm with a 20” setup and does a good 80% of his residential tree removal business with that saw! He dropped a 36” diameter Ash tree with it a couple days ago...I ended up cutting it up with my big saw... but he had it on the ground when I pulled up....😂👍. My buddy Christian has the 261cm and the 362cm... with the 18” .325 and a 20” 3/8’s respectively... I grab his 261 with the 18” long before his 362...for the additional weight I don’t feel that much additional power? His 661cm is much smoother than my 066... and it definitely burns less fuel making it’s power...I am re-fueling a lot more often with the 066...fells like twice as much then the 661...? Definitely is probably just me... but it seems like you are always needing more fuel.... so big saw’s with big bars are fun and all...but when you have to stop and refuel say 4x more often than you do with the 50cc size 261... and after a 5-6 hour firewood cutting session your arms and back are in much better condition if that big saw hasn’t been the main character....😂👍. But at 52... you are done trying to look cool...you just want the lightest saw that will get the job done! 😂😂😂😂👍
Flip the screws on the cover around no interference they’ll be a bit longer on the outside. You will also find the nuts have a flared washer to better grasp the cover from the outside. Check West CoastSaw which has a great explain of why you need a chain catcher to not damage dawgs.
Dual felling spikes do useful things: helps keeps saw “square” to the cut, protects case from frontal impact when pulling into wood, obviously bites better into wood, finally the second spike, from the bottom should line up where the chain is so you know where you are in the wood with the bar buried.
Hell yes! Now the MS261 has been upgraded to BEAST mode, its ready to provide some weight reduction in trees! Yes this was a fun video indeed. I also really liked your outro message, excellent. And Donyboy better be smiling at you after seeing this hehe.
We always take spikes off. . there only needed when cutting with dull saw, plus with out them in the way you can cut larger dia. trees with shorter bar. most people are not cutting 40 inch dia. trees so we use 20 inch bar always. .
1) You put the case bolts on backwards. 2) You need a chain catcher to stiffen the whole thing up and to stop twisting distortion. 3) You shouldn't buy cheap junk from China. 4) You need to spray some Gal spray on that dog you ground otherwise it'll go rusty. 5) You should have just bought quality from West Coast Saws who make the quality dogs and components such as the rolling chain catcher which stiffens the whole thing.
😂😂😂😂😂😂 Should have painted them Orange 🍊 so they would really add that Bling!!! 😂👍👍👍. If you put them in a toaster oven on 400 for a few hours...(4) then drop into a room temperature oil bath a couple times you can actually harden aluminum just like steel... ie a aftermarket piston....😉👍
