How To Install An Exterior Door In 10 Minutes! - Beginners Guide 

I think I should eat more protein after seeing how much I was struggling with that door. Have you ever installed a door alone?

Shims should be behind all hinges and anywhere you screw through the frame. If door has brickmould you need caulk behind the brickmould. Shims under only the jambs at the bottom as needed. Great video. I dig your content.

Thank you SO much, Josh! I need to cut a hole in my mom's ancient sliding garage door and install a hinged door so she can get in there to do her laundry! I learned so much watching this! You ROCK!! 🤗

Hey Josh, great video as always. I bought a similar exterior door at Lowes, same style and brand but 32" wide and figured I'd watch your video on how to install it. I started watching your video and see basically the same door which is great. I was able to remove the old exterior door and jamb (keeping the existing brick moulding because it's in stucco) and your instructions and tips were super helpful in getting the new door in place and plumb. thanks again!

GREAT video. Straight to the point, explained perfectly without making the video any longer than it needed to be, great footage, great audio, great information. 10/10

i work home depot deliveries and whenever i put together door installation orders the flashing always had me curious as to why it's needed. finally decided to look it up and damn this is really good stuff a lot of this doesn't seem complicated the way you put it and I'll be watching more of your content 👊

Make sure your bottoms clean, my Mom taught me that when I was really young!

This guy is the best RU-vidr in this realm of content. Perfectly executed and information isn’t drawn out. I never lose using this guys advice. Thank you everything you have taught me for my house I’m building this year.

Great video! I build vacation homes for my families company in eastern wa. Been working with a guy and haul the doors into place. Never really was taught how to hang the doors though. Just saw this video after needing some answers. We are still in the Stone Age, using air nailers and blowing several air hoses over the years. I plan to shop online for a cordless nailer. Merry Christmas to me! I subscribed and plan to watch other videos to get help. The guy I work with doesn’t communicate so well. After watching this tutorial I understand a lot better and could hang a door solo for sure. Thanks again.

Thank you for sharing your RU-vid about How To Install An Exterior Door In 10 Minutes! - Beginners Guide!

Did this project today! Your tips helped very much!

So satisfying watching a pro practice his craft. Very nice.

very helpful video even for professionals, clear and concise!

Thanks Josh. Great video and tips. Flashing tape for sure. One thing I do if I can is add blocking to the first stud adjacent to opening to bind the area to reduce rattle after closing. Sort of helps..lol or makes me feel better.

Thank you. Your video was very informative and very concise. It was exactly what I needed.

This is a good time to install a jamb brace (anti-burglary plates) behind the latch and bottom hinge. This prevents the frame from breaking if someone tries to kick it in.

Great video, Josh! Good tips. Thanks!

That side door is awefully close to the garage door🧐 having said that, great video! I think ill be able to do the job with these detailed instructions! 🙏

Thanks for the video man you’re the only one who had a video on installing this type of door. Thank you.

I just started watching your channel a couple weeks ago when I began enclosing my carport for a sewing room for my wife. You have answered ALL my questions!!! I was specifically interested in your 3-way switch wiring video. Great content! Not overdone! Very easy to understand! And you narrate like a real person! Thank you, Josh!!! I'll be referring to this video when I install the 36" door as well as the 6' French doors. Do you happen to have a video for installing a set of in-swing French doors?

So for years I wrapped the tyvex/typar in around the framing like you do here. After experiencing what we called mystery leaks. Nothing big, enough to stain some of the trim in the very corners, I figured out that the house wrap was wicking moisture in around the brick mold on doors and the nailing fin on the windows. What I started to do was cut the house wrap back, staple it out of the way. Then we would take 4-in Vycor and install around the opening on the outside. Then you would cut your house wrap back to the edge of the Vycor and use house wrap tape to secure the house wrap to the Vycor. Would always test fit the door and then apply a bead silicon to the back of the molding. Install the door as you normally would. We always shim behind the hinges and three points on the lock side. One top, bottom and behind the striker plate, screws behind the weather stripping like you did. Some finish nails in the brick molding then a nice thin bead of caulk around the outside. Piece of drip cap over the top and then a strip of Vycor over that. Been doing that for a long time haven't had any leaks Not criticizing, everybody does it different but up here in the great white North we get sideways rain, snow, wind, lots of condensation because some days it's 30° when you wake up then 75 in the afternoon. Been building for 40 years learned a lot from my mistakes in that time. Great video though always appreciate the guys that just do it without yapping incessantly. You're helping people out and not wasting their time thanks man!

Short and sweet, straight to the point

Thanks for the video Josh, learned lots and the instruction will help me save some installation money! 😊😊

Glad I found it channel. Great content. Not a lot of channels focused on "blocking and tackling". You can never win without em' Good job.

Love the video Josh!!! Thanks a ton!! Very helpful👍👍👍👍

Hey! Glad to see this as a start to finish job. I plan on moving an exterior door on a load bearing wall. Funny enough, my main concern wasn't the load bearing wall itself (build a sister wall is all!) but moreso hanging the door itself. Seems like a fairly simple process but seems many things can be done wrong. I will be building on wood, the concern is the sill ate sagging over time if it needs significant shimming. What adhesive/sealant do you recommend for wood/wood install? Things I learned from the video and comments: 1. Flashing above the door. I will go the extra mile and do the sides because I am a paranoid overbuilder. 2. Sealing/adhesive for the sill before placing the door. 3. Shims behind hinges and wherever you place a screw or nail. 4. Relates to #3 for getting a good reveal.

I like this guy, his hands are golden, you can learn a lot

Thank You Josh I learned a lot in 10 minutes.

Watching your videos i was able to do my own home repairs thanks man

Thanx Josh. Very good video. Just what I was looking for.

I used to install doors. We used these cool screws that screw into the door jamb. There is a t25 adjustment screw. Super easy. Forgot what they are called that's been years ago.

Thank you Brother! You just saved me almost $300 on installation, for my garage door I need to change! 💯😎👍🏻

Great tutorial Josh! One of my next projects pre winter up in northern wisconsinnn😂

Awesome video and great attitude I appreciate you buddy this helps me a lot

This was a outstanding video. Thank you!

You did just fine, great job on your videos.

Brother, your videos are amazing

Great video! Very helpful. Thank you.

Good Job Josh!!!

Thanks for the video! Was super helpful for my first exterior door installation this weekend.

Awesome and amazing brother good job

Thanks for the video. Now can you do one where the house is 40 years old and the opening isn’t square and a bit tight, masonry outside with no flange on door? Nice square perfect rough openings with level floor are easy.

Great work. Subscribed and will follow your videos.

Great video!

There are two ways to install a exterior door! The 10 minute fast and cheap method or the Correct method. First my level would fit between the jams and then I would use a longer level to make sure that the wall was plumb especially if I was kicking the brick mould tight to the wall, which I would never do without checking plumb. I would never shot any nail without a shim behind it even to temporarily set the door. I don’t like to install doors with the casings put on before the door is set because moving the door usually messes up the miter cuts. I put flashing on sides, then top, then stucco guard or brick mold or whatever casings are required. I would use silicone sealant, not liquid nails, on the sill. Two beads, one a little back of where the front of the door will sit, the other, a little inside where the back of the door will still. I tend to use a hammer and finish nails and set with a nail punch because nail guns usually leave nasty marks and it sounds to me like you caulk nail holes fast and cheap also. I also remove the weatherstripping before I put a drill or screw gun anywhere near it. I never put shims under the door. I would resolve the issue with concrete levelall or whatever the application requires (concrete, hardwood, tile). I use a quarter between the door and jamb, not my eyeball, to set the reveal. When you said you would score and break the shims if they were thin ( that’s how they split and fall between the jamb and stud and leave a loose spot which may create a problem later) and then you said the insulation squares go wherever you see light, which is wrong, they go on the bottom, I decided you were young and hadn’t installed a lot of doors!!!

Josh, You really explained the process perfectly! I needed it today, but hadn't see your video yet. Now I can go do the install right! Kudos to you! And thanks a bunch!

Thanks A Lot, Josh!! Simple & to the Point!! I'll let Ya Know how it goes Wednesday or Thursday! (Depending on the Rain). I'm figuring two Hours after the old door is removed!! I'm old & don't move like I used to!! Thanks Again.

"Boom!" Great install.

Question: I noticed your garage walls are on top of a cement block starter row, which with our garage makes a gap towards the bottom of the door where the cement block is because the 7/16” sheathing is covering the wall. I may be not explaining this correctly. Do you have pictures of the area on the outside of the door at the areas where the cement blocks are? How do you conceal the gap where the brick mold is not touching the blocks on the bottom section of the door? On the door we are replacing, water got in behind the brick mold because of the 7/16” gap and started to rot the boards running down on each side of the rough opening. Just like your video. Any suggestions so this is done correctly. I did buy a door with a compost/pvc jamb & brickmold. Appreciate any help with this issue.

I have installed several pre hung exterior door and frames over the last 40 years. Always turned out a pretty good finish product. After watching your video I can honestly say I am in deed a better installer. Home Depot sold me an Ryobi cordless brad nailer and with the knowledge you shared I turned out an even more excellent product in better than average time for myself. Thank you and keep up the good videos.

Great video. The project I was doing was pretty much the same one as you did in the video. Couple of small issues I ran into were the same ones you highlighted so I knew how to deal with them. Can’t thank you enough.

The little squares of weather stripping are meant for the bottom of the jamb at the sill.

I just had a garage/shop built and the doors need some work due to their lack of attention like this. Thanks! This is probably the most useful site I have seen on youtube, nice work and I would kill for a friend you like you near me. I like to do things myself but my lack on knowledge ends up costing me since I have to pay someone.

Thanks. You’re saving my sanity

This is great - would this also apply to installing same door on shed. Unit have the framing done and wrapped just the door gotta go in but need to be flat with the wall finish

Now that my kitchen base cabinets are done this is my next project. The door going from dining room to garage is getting an insulated exterior one. Also the rough opening needs to be enlarged. Ceramic tile on concrete.

Liquid nails? Liquid nails turns brittle, cracks, then leaks. Always seal with construction "sealant" not adhesive.

Nice! Thanks Josh

Nice job. You can also get a metal drip cap for the top of the door.

Nice video bro from one Forman to another

great job on the vid!!! very descriptive and mucho respecto on doin this all alone and also capturing all the video between the process. hope you are having a great day!

I will have to watch this video again. There is a lot to learn.

Awesome!

I like the flashing tape idea.

I love how you explain all the things you do, I'm learn a lot of about construction I'm planning to build my house with your videos!!!keep going!!...

Josh, When you say "water will run straight down" .... I rather don't think so. There is a process known as 'wicking' where the water is drawn other than the flow by gravity.. To see this take a dry washcloth or dishcloth or sponge and lower one edge into some water. Then hold it there and watch the water run UPhill. Your idea of flashing tape along the sides should be mandatory. I learned this when becoming certified by The Building Performance Institute. Take the extra step -- you'll thank yourself years later!

Hey, did you feel that channel or gap with wood under the sill? That space looks like it could be pushed in, if not filled in with wood

Just thanks brother. good job

I used to use top stars they work very well and don't need to shim

Superb video. No B/S and straight to the point. 👏

Josh, great video. Thank you

The siders gonna pull the tyvek tape and flashing tape. paint and caulk wont adhere well. Top will get metal flashing and the tape will need to be on top of that flashing and the side of the brick mold will get caulk when siding butts into it. You would use that flashing tape if the door didnt come with brick mold. If it came with a flange, then you'd use the flange to hang the door then use the flashing tape over the flange to seal those penetrations.

Thank you👍

Thks Brother.

Good job bro, thanks

Great video. Liked and subbed.

Is it typical for the rough entrance to be offset? We all can't be perfect, but noticed that when you put the door jamb in.

Thank you for sharing

thanks for the help josh

Thanks!

Good video brother.

What do you do with the gap on the outside bottom between the brick moulding and the foundation where the plywood stops

Thanks Josh. I ready to take on my new exterior door install thanks to you.

Thank you

Great Video

Please come to my house and and install my door! Haha You make it look easy!!! Great video!!!

Great video. Very clear and straight to the point.

Thank you bro!

Thank you for your video good to know

Thank you very helpful

Thank you so much for this video! I am on a concrete slab and was not sure if a sill pan was required for the bottom of the threshold! One question good sir: if I do need to shim the bottom(if the foundation is not level) do I just glue the shims on the concrete? Or could I use a concrete level compound?... Thanks for your videos; they are a blessing.

How much would change if you were installing a door in an already-built house that just needs new door? There is some rot in the threshold, should I replace that before I install the door?

Awesome video. Thanks man! Very good quality and information delivery. Keep it up 👍🏼

Great job Josh, now I know exactly what to do thanks.

On the door should have taped sides first then ran to so moisture would shed better, like a window would be bottom side side top

Nice and short thanks

I thank you for your video.

Thanks for sharing…God Bless

Great video

About to be doing this twice this weekend, can you tell me what "Liquid Nails" you used please? I remember in the old days, there was only 1 type of liquid nails. Now there's 20-30 variations of it. Thanks In Advance!