hell yeah, bought a classic jet boat last month and couldn't for the life of me find a good guide about what tubing and where to buy tubing for the water injected headers. now i know exactly how to set everything up. Thank you!
Less Views, Less expansive cameras or editing, but much more useful informations. I wish all YT videos will be like this lol One of the best videos about cpe hoses! Thank you !
Nicely done. One other guy stated not to let the screwed in portion (the male portion into the line) make contact with the nut on the stainless line. I will go with your recommendation. AS you stated ....DO NOT TORQUE one to another but let them make contact and stop right there. NICE BUICK ....looks like a 58 Buick Special. Thanks for the tips and Keep up the good work.
Great video. Thank you! I have a 1970 Nova where the fuel line is starting to leak under pressure. the braided hose to the carb is loose within the fitting (that's where it's leaking). The fitting is a 90 degree bend like you showed here, with the other end of the bend attaching to a hard fuel line. Your instructions gave me great insight as to how these go together so that I might be able to repair the connection. If not, I'll buy new hose, inspect the fitting to see if it appears to be good, and build a new hose. Again, thank you. This is exactly what I was looking for.
Great instructions. Something that I learned over time that helped me both make straight cuts but also clean cuts is to go as slow as I feel like I can. Maybe I'm too much of a brute force person when it comes to using tools. But when I put just enough pressure on to keep the cut moving I seem to get really straight cuts and without any edges or fray or whatever. When I'm cutting metal sheet or shapes it's different.
You can make a fuel-line clamp for your vise from a block of wood. It's pretty cheap. Drill a hole down the center of a 2x4 the same size as the o.d. of your fuel line. Cut the block in half from one end of the hole to the other end of the hole through the center. You can use an uncut, drilled block to cut through the fuel line (and block) instead of tape, too.
Nicely demonstrated Dean, I have never had the opportunity to work with the braided line and fittings before, but if I do in the future I'll know how to put them together, thanks!
Hey Dean, I am just finishing mt braided lines on my 55' Buick Riviera. Unfortunely AN fitting worked like yours ! I had to push a small ferrule in to seat. I left to go....without the fittings that swivel...had to order another 90 degree.
I'd like to comment on how great this type of connection is. I worked around high pressure hydraulic hoses for over 25 yrs. Crimped fittings fail regularly, while these do not fail ever. I don't care if it was crimped by a tool bigger than a jumbo jet. Crimped fittings suck. These AN are about as good as it gets for flexible hoses and it can be done with normal hand tools. Just takes time. Do mind the hose width shrinkage from using these fittings, so try to always go a size up.
Those are great fittings , i used them for transport refrigeration lines on the systems i built at Northeast Thermo King. Nice they will last a long long time, a look great too.
I just received some of these fittings & was trying to figure out how they went together. Your video was helpful, thanks for the demonstration! I hope you blew the fuel line out with air before installing it to the system.
Nice one, good visual. Thanks i don;t want to get a tool. Not just the money but the wait and all. I think I'll just put the fitting back in the vice than use two spanners :)
it easier counter clockwise as there is a left thread on the inside of outer sleeve. that is to help the hose stay in while you are tightening it to the inner piece. :)
HEY BRO THANKS FOR SHOWING THAT TO ME! ill sub to ya im an ol super comp drag racer i had an S/W rail job 1000 HP BB chevy engine now im retired so ill watch u build something lol im also a 45 yr mechanic if ya ever need some help just ask. be cool later
Say, I cut a section of my line with a pipe cutter because it was rusty. Would I still be able to flare/double flare my fuel line and having fittings connect and not leak? Or do I gotta replace the whole line now?
Are you talking about just a regular steel fuel line for a carbureted vehicle? Yes you can flare and use a Union to join up a new piece. You can do that with this braided stainless also. But this stuff doesn't rust so I think you are referring to steel line
I have an-10 fittings with black braided hoses. They do not go easily in any way. I tried forcing them (the thread goes in good, the hose is at the end of the lip on the binding fitting) but when I get to about mid-way, it starts getting super tough and even twists the hose itself. why is that happening? I went for a test drive after I went all-in on closing the fittings and at first, there was no apparent leak but after the second test drive it leaked bad. any suggestions will be highly appreciated. thank you for your vid
NOOOOOOO go on electrical tape...... reason folk wrap it so much is because it stretches.. For large steel hoses like he shows here.. yeah it "can" work. Super Glue works better and you MUST use no stretch tape on it after it dries / before you cut it.. Combined with this and with using a very fine cutting wheel rotary cutting tool..... your life is wayyy easier. For below 6an Steel Braided. even superglue will NOT resist the end of the sheath natural tendency to flare out. There is not a snowballs chance in hell you will get that nut on. For below 6an - such as 4an...either... JUST DONT GO THERE, have a pro hose shop build you the line.. or... use superglue and NYLON braided line along with the fine cutting tool trick.... aka- skip steel braided all together. Honestly Steel Braided is bad anyway.. Once installed it cuts like a chainsaw thru anything that touches it fairly quickly.. Electrical wires.. body panel pieces, coolant hoses, etc etc... Its just not worth using it at all.
