The "how to" directions from JM has changed SO MANY times in the last 6 years becuase they have added many different supplemental items to make thier original GoBoards better. I wish they would eliminate all of the old (now WRONG) internet references and publish a new definitive set of best practices based upon what they currently offer.
I've been following your bathroom renovation projects and appreciate the insights you share. I recently conducted a detailed exploration into the safety and installation practices concerning foam core backer boards, specifically focusing on the critical role of wood blocking for secure grab bar installations. Our findings highlight the potential risks and structural integrity issues that can arise from omitting wood blocking, even with the most reliable materials and techniques. Given the importance of safety and durability in renovations, I thought this information could be beneficial to your projects and audience. Incorporating wood blocking can significantly enhance the strength and safety of grab bar installations, a detail that's often overlooked. I'd be happy to share our findings and discuss further. Keep up the great work, and thank you for sharing your knowledge with the community!
go board I will say is hands down the best #1 product for tile installation I am in love with this product!!make pro installers life way easier and I would never come back to any other board then (Go board)
The first time you use it, you feel like your dreaming. It weighs nothing. It's 100% waterproof. As long as you can source the screws and Pro Sealant, it's hands down the way to prep shower/tub walls.
Just completed a large shower tile in my master bathroom. I love how easy it was to install go board. It is so lightweight, easy to cut and easy. I did my other bath 2 years ago with hardibacker and it took half the time and a lot less mess and muscle! I am going to use if for my bathroom floor too. I'd highly recommend this product.
The best I'm a pro tile installer and since I did the first job with this product never used the cemented board again..another level..light and better finish.
I love it too. Did a job with 3x6 subway tiles and one course was right over the 2" seam of pro sealant. I wondered how much adhesion you get directly over the pro sealant or if they expect a certain percentage of the tile back to get adhesion with the gray surface of the goboard.
@@JoseLopez-yn9eg I mean there aren't any videos for how to handle windows or bathtubs... You know, the things most people have in their house. A lot a what ifs left unanswered.
How to handle tubs? It's the same exact as the acrylic shower base in the video. As far as a window in the shower, get it tight, seal it the same way. I'm not sure what your looking for.
@@mattschwope tub, shower, window, wall. are you serious ? He explained that the goboard goes where the tile goes, how to prep, cut, seams and fastening. So regardless of the shape of your room or what objects you have in it you apply the same methods.
Nails must be a maximum of 6” apart, but the dots on the boards are 9” apart. I really love the fiberglass surface that adds the itchy fun that other boards doesn’t offer.
i was under the impression that thin-set achieves a better bond when the subfloor is slightly wet (so it doesn't leech the water out of the thin-set immediately thus preventing good adhesion)
you are correct..he missed that step...he also didnt burn the mortar into the subfloor before before he did his directional trowling...maybe because it was just a quick tutorial...but all the more reason to be more specific
This installation video differs from the other installation video from JM. In the other video it shows applying the sealant after installing the Go Boards. Also if you seal it the way shown in this video, the other video says that is wrong. In other words, the other video shows a wider sealing width once you over with a trowel.
Doug, personally, I lay down a bead of sealant prior to abutting all boards to one another. That way I know there is sealant in between the entire thickness of the foam board (look for adequate squeeze out along the length of the butt joint). Then, later, I go back and using a small putty knife I will seal all screw holes and the 2" required seam coverage. But you could do it all afterwards, as long as you make sure to maintain 1/8" gap along all joints.
Donn: That makes sense and guarantees a waterproof seal. It’s how I wound up installing it in a large walk in shower project. First time using GoBoard and I’m sold on it
@@kiheidude It's almost too good to be true. It weighs nothing. It's effortless to transport, cut, and work with. I do spend more time prepping my framing, and have actually installed plywood in my shower bay before, just so the GoBoard can be screwed over the entire surface. But man, it's hands down my favorite substrate for showers surrounds.
I love GoBoard but i see the aqua defense doesn't stick well to the polyurethane you can rub the aquadefense with the palm of your hand and it will curl off...... I still find GoBoard the best of the best
In what situations do you feel the need to install AquaDefense over GoBoard? In reading the Mapei tech sheet, I am not convinced GoBoard is an acceptable substrate. Maybe JM will chime in and answer this question.
@@donnbialik9085 The goboard is fantastic and the polyurethane is more than enough by itself.... only the screwheads and seams need the polyurethane ...... the board itself is a fantastic product and will use it again but without the aqua defense which does not stick well to the polyurethane. I've taken a small iece of it and put it into a bucket of water with a brick to hold it down for a month and it passed the test with flying colors..... to me it's much better that the cement boards
Not sure about aquadefense but Redgard will. I spoke to Redgard and they suggested that you apply redgard over the sealant while it's still a little tacky (within ~4 hrs of installing sealant). They found that it sticks better that way.
Does anyone know if fiberglass tape and mortar be used for the Go Board seems instead of Polyurethane sealant? Also, can Mapei Aqua Defense be use to cover the entire board, as an extra waterproofing step?
This stuff is nice but Lowes and Home depot only want to carry it by the pallet. I don't need 60 sheets to do a bathroom. You guys need to work on your supply chain for this stuff to really take off.
RootStriker, when you use GoBoard on the floor, they recommend using a fiberglass mesh tape to reinforce the seams. When you do this you need to use, mortar to link the two boards together. Then to make it waterproof, you would use a product like AquaDefense. The AquaDefense will bond properly to the mortar. If you aren't using the mesh tape (on walls), using Pro Sealant gives you a waterproof installation.
I love this stuff, and it's a heck of a lot cheaper than kerdiboard. Recently, working on a project, using GoBoard, I encountered what to me looks like a major manufacturing defect. Everyone knows that GoBoard has an interior core and an exterior "skin". The problem is, the interior core appears to be manufactured in lengths that don't always fall evenly on cuts. And so in my board (I've now found it in 2) have a seam of internal core boards that meet at approximately 2/3rds of the length. The problem is, when I screwed this to the studs, the board had a slight buckle at the seam joint, creating a crown that was about 1/8" high. Not good, especially if you have to tile across it. I used a rasp to scrape it down just a bit, without cutting through the outer skin, but this has me wondering an out the manufacturing process. Why not match up entire lengths of the core with the skin? Why are they trying to join together 2 separate cores inside a whole board? I'm not happy and if I use it again, I'll be looking to pick out boards without these seams.
you didn't say why putting sealant at bottom of first board is necessary. clip that includes it would've been helpful and explain why. perhaps not require on custom shower pan where membrane goes 6 in up wall that board is placed over.
Can you use a silicone sealant instead of a polyurethane sealant? I was under the impression that polyurethane detetiorates after 5 years whereas silicon can last 20+.
..sure wish this was available in the west. California specifically. I cannot understand why (other than keeping competition out) why the light weight foam backers are not available at Home Depot or Lowes. The lowest pricing for 3x5 DUROCK is 37.50 .. almost double the cost of Goboard.
I searched the Johns Manville website for "where to buy" and found a local distributor of GoBoard for $25 per the 1/2" board!! Lowes lists it as a product on their website, but it is not available (and hasn't been for since I started searching few months ago). I hope this helps.
Are there any significant insulation properties to this? R-Value? I know it's not the purpose of it, but I'm curious since it sounds like a type of aerated plastic board -- almost like those pink foam insulation boards.
Should Goboard lap over the shower pan flange or stop above the flange to leave a gap and prevent wicking as recommended for conventional cement backer board?
You aren't competing against cement board anymore, you're competing against other foam board manufacturers. Love the fiberglass membrane. But the one thing that gives pause is I have read goboard is polyiso. As opposed to EPS like Wedi, Kerdi, Laticrete, etc. If I an going foam, I want the benefit of truly 100% waterproof, submersible. Polyiso is not, EPS is. Make a video that convinces me goboard over the other foam board companies.
I think it's the window, door and siding sealant. It's what's shown under recommended accessories on the menards website towards the bottom of the goboard page
Pam M , Also, why is it required on the walls, but on the floor you can use liquid membrane ? Seems like it defeats the purpose. One tub of the liq. rubber stuff can do the entire bathroom and still have plenty left over to do 5 more bathrooms. This is my first introduction to this brand name foam board. And already l like it compared to the Kerdi/ Shluter videos.
@@BlueOriginAire that was my question as well, i cant imagine putting the waterproofer on top of the joints on the wall would cause any issues? would it be extra protection?
I also live in Arizona and bought the last ten sheets from Lowes on Northern Blvd. None of them now have it and i can't get a straight answer out of them when it will be restocked
STOP: Do Not Use this video for instructional guidance. GoBoard is great... but the installation instructions have changed many times in the last 7 years. Do yourself a favor and search RU-vid for a more current GoBoard installation video.
Wow, pretty informative. However, you messed up on your tile layout by mirroring the inside cuts instead of continuing the flow. Better luck next time.
"Then I'll take my polyurethane sealant and apply it to the bottom edge of my piece of goboard. Then fasten it to the studs at the wall base. I need to apply enough of it so that it squeezes out at the side when I fasten goboard to the stud. I'll show you why in a minute." This is never shown. Instead the video just moves on to the next piece of goboard in the stack.
Interesting, I notice a very light sulfur-like smell. To me it smells just like Terra Haute, Indiana. LOL And I don't find it particularly itchy either.
