How to Install Knock Down Door Frames 

Amazing help my first time installing a knock down door and this videos was a great asset

From a door installer that has installed thousands of commercial doors and KD frames, some tips. This isn't how we install frames but his method gets the job done. Leave the laser at home, they simply are not accurate enough and take more time than a 6' level and a framing square. We use a custom made 42 X32 square. A good mechanic can install 8-10 frames an hour. The biggest problem I see when the drywall contractors install frames is they are twisted, the bottom legs are not perfectly parallel to each other. We have a custom made spreader that sits on the floor between the legs that is exactly 36" and keeps the frame from twisting. Residential guys and girls: the frame needs to be exactly 36". do not try to give it more room like 36-3/16 like some would do with a residential wood jamb. All 4 sides of the jamb must be caulked, especially the hinge side. Caulk is basically the only thing holding the frame secure. The rough opening for KD frames is NOT 2" bigger than the door size, it's 1 1/2" to 1-3/4" inches bigger than the door width and 1/2" bigger in height. The rough opening for a 3/0 x 7/0 door is 37-1/2 x 84-1/2.

I have installed every type of commercial steel door frames out there ,as ,I was a door installer for hire ,first with a door supplier company ,and then with a large construction company ,so we gave labor bids only for piece work installs ,and the general contractors supplied all the frames and doors and hardware accessories . This video was pretty good depiction of a normal condition ,but when you do schools and hospitals and hotels ,the framing conditions are not always perfect,and the installer has much work to do in short amounts of time. The best advice I can give to any installer ,(small scale) is that caulking these knocked down drywall frames is 90% of the strength of the frame ,most caulking contractors do good ,but some never caulk the tight hinge jambs in corners ,as they must bend the caulking tube tip to get in the corner and caulk that hinge jamb ,and when the heavy doors are hung and used ,that jamb will loosen and the door weight sill sag the door,and cause fitting problems. I have been called back on install warranty ,many times just to point this flaw out to the contractors ,and they always recall the caulking crews to do it proper ...remember ,caulking is 90% of the strength of this slip on frame !! Your video was good ,but you did not stress the importance of the proper rough opening required ?I have made it a rule ,when framers ask what I would require ,I tell them two inches wider than the door width and one in h taller than the door height ,this allows a one inch overlap all around ,and will work with all types of K/D frames . One last tip ,for advanced installers ,when I set and plumb the hinge jambs ,I always cheat the hinge jamb "inward" about a light eighth ,anticipating the weight of the door "sagging" a bit in the frame ,and causing the need to shim the bottom hinge ,to raise the door back up ,it is a subtle amount ,and usually works to where no shimming is needed. Just a tip for the pros out there !! Also most installers don't use lasers to set frames ,but is o.k. to do ,but when levels are used ,magnetics are great ,so you don't have to hold them during installs ,but , I always stress placing the levels on the door side of the rabbets ,as that is where the reveal is seen ,and not on a stop .thanks for the video guys !!

Tip before setting your frame. A lot of times the set screws are painted or stuck to the clip inside the jam. Breaking those screws loose will save you from removing a frame. Hold the clip with your hand and a few turns clockwise with the screw will ensure a smooth finish when securing the frame.

Thanks for making it easy and visualizing it so simple. Years of experience in ten minutes and that is how much time you have saved us. Thanks again

All your videos are great . I been a commercial carpenter for 8 years and we do everything in your videos very informational keep up the good work man👍

presuming it's called a knock down because you lock it together by knocking the tabs down....you're video was great. clear, concise, correct, complete. Thank you

Excellent video, thanks! One suggestion when framing is to place a wood 2x4 inside of the metal studs so the base screw has something solid to sink in to. Also makes the opening more stable.

It is easy after seeing how you did it. Thanks for giving us your years of experience in several minutes' videos. About 71,000 people have watched this video including the ones who gave a thumb down (I don't know why). Just imagine how much time you gave back to society and we can do other things. Thanks again;

Thank you for taking the time to teach us!!!!

To confirm: 3070 dr requires 38.25 opening; so always add 2-1/4" for rough opening width. Please confirm RO height opening. Great educational video. Professional, clear and concise

Excellent video I'm a commercial metal stud framer drywall hanger finisher great job bud I couldn't have done it better myself

Thanks straight to the point.

Thank you, this was most helpful 🎉

This was really helpful, thanks man.

Finally found a decent video on this. Thanks

Great job demonstrating a tricky job. Quick question. What should the rough opening be if the door is 36” x 80”? You mentioned the width being 38 1/4” which is very helpful

Very helpful thanks!

As always. Great video. Thanks

thanks. very helpful. going to try it tomorrow.

Good video. Will show to my crew as a best practices reminder. Quick question though….were you saying your finished width was 35 15/16”? I failed a TAS inspection for an 1/8” on aisle width. Not sure if 1/16th would get caught, but I just wanted clarification when I show to the crew.

Fast way... set door jamb in opening . Plumb hinge side , tighten upper screws . Hang door and set strike side and header to perfect reveal To the door .... Job done

Thanks. Very helpful.

Great video! Very helpful. Thanks!

I used to undersize (order) door width by 3/16" (3/32" reveal each side). But for the past 15 years or so I undersize 1/4" because if I don't I get phone calls that the door doesn't fit the frame. That's because unfortunately it's rare to see a plumb and square rough opening. If your net frame opening is 36", 1/4" undersized gets you a nice 1/8" reveal. I'd be careful if you're going to make your net opening 35-15/16", because if someone is undersizing the door by 3/16"...you're not going to have much of a reveal. It's amazing how big of a difference 1/16" of an inch makes. Great video by the way!

Nicely done - well explained , very informative

Nice call on the 35 15/16 surprised I don't see that more often.

Great install video.

Great video! I learned something today!

excelente tecnica

Nice work Mitch

Great video. I’m installing one of these my first time and having to frame up the door with wood. Recommended rough opening is 40.25” which seems wide to me since the frame is only 40” from end to end outside diameter. Door didn’t come with instructions, is there a standard overlap you want the frame to go over the drywall?

How do you finish mud around frame? (I needed to add strips of drywall on 2 x 4 framing to achieve tight fit / correct wall thickness.)

Great job. Very informative

Good job!

Thank you

Question, I’m installing 4 of your exterior welded frames w doors in existing bldg w brick exterior. What are the center holes in frame, I’m assuming to fasten to wood rough opening. Is there a video showing this install? Thanks, craig

got a knock down set up and want to cut out a few feet below existing window in back of a garage , issue or challenge is roughing on window is a few inches on each side big should I keep line of window width and frame with wood to allow proper measurements so that frame hugs snug then cap sides for a nice finish

Thanks bro!!

Just one question if a have trashhold or solepain under jamb or frame what i need to do? Tjanks and great job

I just picked up a knock down door I ordered. It has tabs on the inside that look like they are to be attached before/under the drywall. There are a set at the bottom and the middle of of both jams. Also the latch box seems pretty close to the edge of the trim, so I need to notch the framing to account for the latch box? As you can tell this is my first knock down door.

great video...👍

Tks for all your help.

What about siding and drywall? My door frame was sized for the wall stud size and won't fit after stucco and drywall.

Thanks a lo bro it helps me a lot,

Hey nice video what is the rough opening for the door

Hello from Carpenters 215 👋🏼

can you tell me the rough opening for the sheetrock

WHAT IS TYPICAL RUFF OPENINGS FOR A KNOCK DOWN FRAME

Do the walls have to be finished for these knockdown frames to fit properly? We are replacing a garage door with a walk through door and want to install this type of door when framing up. I'm not sure yet what we are finishing the walls with, but I do know it WON'T be sheetrock, I hate that stuff..lol

Please how do I fixed my wooden doors when it get damaged 😊

Love the video! What is the rough opening. I heard you say it 38 something. For a 36in door. Thanks

This is exactly what I’ve been looking for! Only question I have, is there any type of backing placed behind the metal frame? Or with a knock down, do they provide enough support being screwed straight in to the thin metal framing?

The clips you used at the bottom of the door, is that a separate thing or are they already attached to the frame? I am currently installing a frame and there are there tabs (folded up) at the bottom and higher than midway. It seems like they get unfolded and slide under the drywall? Or maybe they are for stud fastening? Either way I never saw the drywall clips shown.

Great video. But I couldn't do help wondering that for a country that ejected the British, I'm amazed you are still using imperial measurements

Thank you it's an awesome job . But I need to install the same one on contract wall . If you can advise me thank you

Can these frames be flipped around to change the swing?

Hey man, I saw your videos puting door jambs only, could you make a video installing the doors? Or other guys do those?

Can a welded frame be installed in an opening if it's already drywalled?

Great job. Only thing I'd do different would use a construction grade screw at the toe vs. a graphite "pointer" drywall screw as suggested.

you rock !

Hi buddy thanks for your effort and time . Can I install a welded door frame if the wall openings is already cut or I need to order a collapsible one ? (Because I am assuming we need to mount a welded door frame before building the wall around it .Thanks for reading

What is the rough opening on the height

1/16 +1/16=1/8 inch gab even on the metal door spacing.

When building a house why do you put trim around a doorframe?

I'm researching gyp board control joints at knock down frames and whether they should be installed to prevent cracks in drywall above doors. Wondering if cracks could be caused by door movement/vibration or lack of control joints. Also wondering if retrofitting CJ's would help. Can you add any insights? THX

What’s the con and pro vs regular pre hung and this ?

What should the length of the header be for a 36" door? What should the opening be for the same size door?

I have to install these on a rough opening with no drywall and studs around door frame lose. Any recommendations?

Which way do you turn the screws at the top dissension securely in the frame

What is the rough opening when framing say for a 3 0 7 0

can a dead bolt be added to a door like this when there is none in it?

Thanks, does the frame come with a pre-drilled dimple for the screws ? also if the openings is 3 15/16 how will you handle when you get the door which I assume will be 36"

Can you install wood trim?

Why wouldn’t you use the laser for the strike side as well? Laser the top corner then match the bottom.

My door drags on the floor once open just short of 90 degrees. Can I use the screws pressing against the studs at the top to push the frame toward the hinge side in order to get the door to operate properly?

You could use a piece of tape to hold the top up lol

Simple 😊

Is it possible/safe to remove a door frame like this years later and replace it with a residential-style wood door frame?

Who made the knock down door frame you are installing?

my boss bought 1/2" drywall instead of 5/8". Is it ok to shim out the difference?

Are we supposed to get the coroners welded?

Laser level is way slower than using a nice stabilio.

First of all, you never started off with what the rough opening should be for the door

I'm sorry to say it's unsafe to put the top piece in first it's always best to put one leg first in an angle That way it would hold the top piece and then the other leg the way you did it it could fall and walk you in your head unsafe

Your pointers are self tappers

We all call em pointers brother!

And if I don't have a laser level?

Taunt lol

Leveling the header by measuring off of the floor will be inaccurate, if your floor isn’t level. Use a level.

You forgot punch and dimple..

Sorry about your Carhart hat

Wheres your hardhat?

"These ones" ...... what?