He is very careful about setting things up perfectly. Except for breathing in even the smallest amount of concrete dust, Sandles and shorts for the beach Forgot to mention I’ll be using this video for installation
Nice work! I am waiting for my M7K delivered soon. Your video is very helpful and will be a good reference for my installation. Thanks and Subscribed! 👍🤞
Great video! Getting mine put together now to install this weekend. You're absolutely right about the instructions and the quick disconnect fittings at the base of the posts. They still haven't fixed the instructions. I got the first one all put together and then thought I was crazy that it wasn't fitting right. Glad to see you made mention of it. I remembered it in your video *after* I did the first one. Oops.
Glad it helped. I ended adding another 45-degree elbow for the side with the hose drop so it goes vertical to ceiling. Other side I turned it horizontal across floor, it looks much cleaner now. I used this, amzn.to/399DmTo
It's easier than the experts say. Biggest unknown for me was the middle of garage concrete thickness, so happy it was right at 4.5 inches for the anchors.
I think the issue with your anchor bolts is at 15:52 The nut should be 5/8” from the end of the threads/top of the anchor That way when you hammer down it’s got a positive stop Then with the wrench you’re just setting the teeth of the anchor to bite into the concrete. Not to lift the anchor in place. If you were able to lift the anchors then your concrete would be too weak! Also one note on using ATF I think it’s not recommended bc it’s thinner and can more easily leak around the fitting or even the pump heads.
Yea I pounded them too deep and the anchors set well below. They are in there good. I had to get slightly longer bolts to make sure I had enough threads in the insert and compensate for the deeper anchors.
Thanks for the video. Considering a MK7. Did you get a sense of concrete thickness before drilling? Maybe drill a few holes to measure with j-hooks? Don't want to have to pour footers.
Was just praying I had enough thickness. Most garage slabs are required to be 4-inch. The edges will be more due to footers. So one side is wasn’t worried cause it was close to edge. The middle was the gamble. It ended up being about 4.5 cause I broke thru to dirt.
Congrats on the new lift! Looks great. Curious if you decided to use 2 1/2" bolts instead of the shorter 2" for the entire project? Given the differences in surface depth?
I had the older version. The original Maxjax 10yrs ago. Worked great but one thing that bothered me and many others was that even though it was leveled during installation once you lifted a vehicle the towers became out of level. The towers would collapse about 1/4 in inward. I never had any accidents with all the different vehicles I put on it but just never felt comfortable underneath the cars. I worked under there with the thoughts of always being ready to run out. I even put wheels under the cars to save me. With this new version. Lift a vehicle then put a level on the towers. Let me know if it tilts inward. Thanks
Not sure if your issues is with the actual towers or maybe the flex in the concrete or floor level. There will be slight metal tolerances especially with a static moment load of 2000lbs per side. I too don’t trust it 💯 so I bought those huge trailer jack stands.
Hope the wedge anchors hold.. After several years of my maxjax they all eventually pulled up. I went epoxy and never looked back. Knowing what I know I would have 100% gone epoxy anchors from the beginning. Would have saved headaches.
@@TunerwithKids I always check the torque every time I would use the lift. But what ends up happening with the wedge anchors it's from the lifting and lowering of the vehicle, It eventually starts pulling on the wedge anchors. There's a whole 20 page thread on garage journal forum about the anchors themselves. They might have updated the wedge anchors on the new revision but I know the original one the wedge anchors were not great. Just keep an eye on it because what might eventually happen is if you start seeing the anchors raise up and now they're at the bottom of the Maxjaxy plate that's the problem And they're coming loose.
It has locks with 7 positions but no 2-post has anti collapsing system. Your depending on the 5 anchors. That's why it's important to have the concrete depth and ensure the anchor sets. Each bolt is torque to 90 ft-lbs but should check periodically to ensure. I have two big ass 10 ton jack stands for secondary safety when I'm under.
Great video. Could you drop the IS250 subframe with this jack? Would it be able to lift the car over the engine cradle assuming you dropped it on vehicle dolleys?
If you can get the subframe onto something low. I’ve done the transmission and differential on a cart but used the 6” plus 2.5” pad extensions to add height.
Suspension question. Maybe you can help. Since your car looks so good and you've done so much work yourself. I have a 2016 is 300 fsport. And I want to lower it. Looking to get rsr down springs. But hearing lots of issues with rear camber and inner front tire wear. I ordered new lca bushings . But looking to use my car daily and also put my family in it. And have no issue? What is your set up ? looks perfect. Just want to minimize the front gap. Not slam the car .. any ideas? Thanks
Do they really only recomend 3" away from the control joint? Those are not for expansion, but to allow to concrete to crack in a controlled manner. I believe typically any anchor within 300mm of a control joint cannot be considered full strength. Hilti offers a free anchor calculator tool that you could use to verify your installation! I am not affiliated with them, I just use it for work as a mechanical engineer. Stay safe!
I think it’s more for the static force from the moment of the lift arms. You don’t want to risk a weak spot or the wedge anchors cracking the concrete as it expands near a joint. I’ve seen some RU-vid installs where they got hairline crack near expansion joints after setting the wedge. They ended up repouring a dedicated footing for the lift.
Did that on purpose because the slots for the wall side are same direction so on the wall the weight of the assembly is on the narrows. The pump assembly side is also on 3 bolts per side and they don’t all align with the prefab bracket holes.
Great video and work, got mine new from "discounted" homo depot price, still $3629 out the door I also bought some accessories not so cheap; a 177" hose from Bend Pack web site $174.00, and also got a used Ergo Chair creeper from Bend Pack as well for $469.00 out the door, thought that I was buying it new discounted from its new price but found out it is actually used or open box hence the discount, got to see how it looks when it arrives as it ships on Monday; these are all made in China so the quality is meh.. even new sometimes there are problems that people have been posting here in you tube. I am not a car guy per say, I just worked in one car without the lift, which I had one, now I got it because still need to work in 2 other cars, full engines swaps so with the savings by not having a street mechanic doing the work as i already got screwed once hence why I worked myself in the first car, I got the lift which saves my back and shoulders and even my neck because with the creeper you can rest your head while under. A body part is priceless, money is paper and will go one way or another, that is how I justify the expense.
Yea Bend Pak is overpriced. I got my creeper chair from Whiteside MFG (the OEM that makes MaxJax chair) for $189. The hose, I just got an aftermarket Apache 8’ with much better quality for like $40. Not sure who makes the Ergo chair but Bend Pak price seems crazy. It’s also big and bulky so need lots of room to use it.
@@TunerwithKids Thanks so much for the quick response! I have an 8 foot ceiling in the garage, so not ideal. Don't want to put my car up into my daughter's bedroom! Keep up the great work btw. Original owner of a 2001 IS300 and trying to keep her on the road as my daily. Great car!
Wow that's awesome I wanna garage like this....I been following you I got a toyota sienna got a is250 I convert my front bumper I upgrade my front caliper ...my next project garage lifter...
@@TunerwithKids I bought mine new from the website, the ultimate package with the -$700 deal.. It came out to $4.3 k delivered including $140 fuel surcharge. Would of been 5k…installed it with a buddy, saved $$$
I think that’s new for M7K model. On M6K, I don’t recall that. But for mine, I was concerned about the expansion joint on one side but after research and understanding the moment of inertia and static forces, the big concern is the joint on the backside of the lift post exerting static forces on the joint. Mine is on front side so the forces won’t cause a pullout of the anchors. But I did make sure my bolt and anchors are at 7.5” from the joint to be safe.
Yeah mine concern me a little bit mine i have one that’s on the side of the lift… not the front or back front meaning the side with the arms, rear with the wheels. I guess I’ll just put it at 6inches and hope for the best. Thanks for ur video and the links for everything u used
Can we see a retrofit on 2008-2010 Lexus headlights? A DIY cost friendly solution for those that want these aggressive DRLs, but don’t want everything else on $600+ full assembly. I blacked out my chrome, wondering how I can achieve those thick >_L_< DRL lights when all that’s available are thin Led strips.
Binh Nguyen-Tuner with Kids thank you. Good to know I could’ve wasted my time. I have a 2011 lx with the older gen aesthetic, looks like I’ll go with this newer alibaba set.
I have been watching your video prior to installing mines. Thank you for the awesome detailed install. did you have any issue with your post tilting? I posted a video in my account of my issue. wondering if you are experiencing the same. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--Tw8N5ZstU0.html
