Thank God there's parts and you tube instructional video.. mine is from 02 and this morning I was still half asleep at 430am when I left for work and backed into my garage door before it was all the way up.. thought I just folded my bottom door panel... that was an easy fix but then I realized the chain fell off. Then once I got up there I notice i snapped the sprocket off.
Such an excellent job at explaining the entire process. This video is a bit old but so are these door openers!I hope the original poster knows how much he has helped so many people.Thank you very much.
You are a god and and an awesome instructor. I had ordered the parts from you thanks to your video instructional, and they arrived within a few days. I then proceeded to follow your instructions to the word and the door works better than ever.
This was a very helpful video. My lifter was only cycling a few seconds after I replaced the gears, but after I saw how to push the axle through the back of the motor, I removed the slop in the gears and it worked great. Thanks!
Thanks for taking the time to create this step-by-step video. You've made something that is seemingly complex so simple. Thanks and keep up the good work.
THANK YOU for this how-to video. I have the exact same opener and it helped me save a lot of money by repairing instead of replacing. You were VERY concise and easy to follow. The emery paper tip made it easy to put everything back on the motor shaft. Again, I can't give you enough thanks!
Another successful garage door opener repaired Thanks to this video and parts I ordered from GateHouse. Make sure the rotator cup goes on far enough or the garage door will not move very far, a problem other people were having. I also had a ridge on the motor shaft that made it difficult to remove but used a dremel tool on it.
Thank you for an excellent tutorial. I had a couple problems along the way, and would like to share how I overcame them. First, after removing the set screws from the set collar (2:20), the set collar would not slide off the shaft. I used some PB blaster on the set collar and then tapped the end of the motor shaft back towards the motor with a hammer and that loosened it up so that I could remove it. Second, when removing the bushing from the motor shaft (2:40), it was tight onto the motor shaft and would not move. I used a pair of vice grips to clamp the flange on the bushing to the motor plate, and then tapped the end of the motor shaft back towards the motor with a hammer to move the bushing near the end of the motor shaft. It came off easily after that. Lastly, when inserting the main shaft bearing into the bearing plate (4:58), even though I lubed it up good it would not seat by just tapping it with a pair of pliers as shown. Using a deep impact socket about the same diameter as the flange on the bearing, I stood the unit on its side and put the socket onto the flange or the bearing and hammered the socket to press/seat the bearing into the bearing plate. It took a bit of pounding but the bearing eventually seated into the bearing plate. The only other advice I would offer is before mounting the chain, cycle the opener so that it is in the "door closed" position. The chain sprocket will rotate clockwise when closing the door, so cycle the opener until the sprocket rotates clockwise to the limit, and then you are ready to mount the chain. Good luck!
Best video out there on the rebuild. It gave me confidence to replace the worm gear, which others videos did not replace. I would have liked a bit more detail on getting bushings in and out and best tricks. I got mine out and back in okay, but they were tight and had to use some creative manipulation to do so. Thanks for the super quality video with good camera work!
Thanks for the video. After evaluating 5-6 videos on the topic this one was tops. Great video work showing step by step process. One area of trouble I ran into - when reassembling and putting the main shaft/drive gear assembly back into the chassis (5:49 in your video), the shaft stops about 1-2" from being flush with the chassis. Reluctantly, but successfully used the trusty hammer to get past this obstacle. Overall great video and I appreciate you taking the time to show step by step... For anyone on the fence... give this a try.. $18 including replacement parts vs $100+ for a repair.
I love the video. Can this be done without removing the unit from the ceiling. That would be very hard. Also, you said, you should remove the RPM sensor board, but I did not see you do that? What kind of paper am I suppose to use & do I use it like sand paper? Lastly, how do you run the door without the arm connected? Is it a bad idea to not replace the worm gear? It would make the job a lot easier. I am afraid I might not be able to to the entire job. Thanks for your help & great video!
Correct we removed the unit and flipped it upside down on a workbench. We suggest doing this as it does make things easier and will save time on the complete job.
Thanks for your video. I followed your procedure, and after it was finished, I tried to do bench test, the motor runs for 2 seconds , stops and coming back for 2 seconds. It doesn't go through full length. What did I do wrong?
The one issue I found was that my RPM Sensor Board has very little clearance to the set collar. I am glad I rotated it to check everything and found that the new set screws in the kit do not set flush with the collar and were digging into the circuit board. I tried several things, but just ended up taking the old set screws that are shorter and using them. This was on a craftsman opener from 1993 so I see in the video that the one he was working on had more clearance. But something that should be noted.
Thanks for the help. I have a couple of suggestions. When you put the new sprocket assembly into position make sure you rotate it so the holes line up for the sprocket cover so that you can replace the sprocket cover after you put the chain back on. I noticed in the video where this was not done. Also I was advised to install the self tapping screws onto the sprocket assembly then remove them if you are not removing the whole opener from your ceiling first as this makes it easier to put it back together working in those tight spaces.
I found the video very helpful, thank you. But, when i completed install, the motor/box seems to have an excessive amount of vibration. I have a 3 car garage so i have 2 others to compare to. Any suggestions?
I have absolutely no access to removing one of the 3 bolts that hold the shaft assembly in place. Two seem like I can access them from the top but one has to be accessed from the side. What size are the bolts and what did you use to remove them with?
After changing gear(s) pay attention to one very important detail. Use plenty of lube on the new setup. Make sure you load lube between the gear teeth.
I've replaced the gear and sprocket. But now the garage door only runs a a couple of feet to close but then returns up to the original position. I've checked the sensors and they are in line with no obstructions. I've also tried adjusting the limit gears; this did not work either. Do you have any suggestions and advice?
bigbinh714 You should look into the overload/obstruction sensor adjustment, and rpm sensor itself, that is the little circuit board at the end of the motor shaft.
Yes that is correct. You need to make sure to change the worm gear too. If you only change one of them then they won't match up and the old gear will wear out the new one in a month.
@elzbietka25 Hello, The instructions are basicaly the same you are just re-using the old shaft and spocket. You will have to drive out the roll pins which is best done with a bench vise and pin punch.
Has anyone done this, swapped both gears, and then had a loud rattle coming from the gears? When the door is raising, these gears rattle like crazy. I tightened all the mounting screws and confirmed everything is in the correct order.
The only problem I find with this video is that you have somehow flipped the motor over after lowering it. This appears to make it easier to work on, but also complicates following the video with my motor right side up - or am I missing something?
Unfortunately, I got to the end of these directions for my Craftsman 800SRT and it didn't look like this, it was reverse of this (set screw assembly is in back of motor and not front) and I am not able to remove the worm gear. There is a rod through the gear shaft preventing it from coming out (in this video that rod is behind the worm gear, between it and the motor, rather than in front of it). Now I am stuck because I can't replace both the worm gear and the larger gear assembly.
I have installed new gears in accordance to your video upon installation I in accordance to instructions ran sprocket without chain attach which was to make a complete cycle however sprocket make a brief cycle start and than reversed. what could be wrong? Joe
Jeremiah Owen I was able to fix it by pushing on the back of the motor shaft before tightening the set screws as explained by the video (around 4:40). I guess I had not paid enough attention ...
I was able to fix it by pushing on the back of the motor shaft before tightening the set screws as explained by the video (around 4:40). I guess I had not paid enough attention ...
i am having issues with the worm gear is their an extra piece that needs to be removed the take the worm gear out mine won't move past the end shaft it looks like you moved a peice forward then took off the worm gear is this what you did and if that peice is broken are their any other way to take it off?
The GateHouse are you talking about the pin the worm gear mounts on i did not remove that the part you took off is broken could not find pin in that part or in front of it do see indication a pin was their could not find this part broke off any suggestions?
The GateHouse i got it off used some wd40 to loosen it then used a chisel slowly moving it along the way until ti came off then took off worm gear getting ready to put back together
I did everything in the video and when I put it back together, the motor shaft will not turn at all. It turned before I replaced the gears but now it will not turn at all. The motor hums but nothimg happens. The chain is not too tight, and I have triple checked all of the connections. Does anyone have any ideas of what might be wrong? I'd it possible I screwed up the rpm sensor, and if so, would it prevent the motor shaft from turning?
I purchased just the gear set. I got the old gear off the shaft with a hack saw so I could get to that punch pin with a pliers and pull it out. How do I get the punch pin through the gear shaft? I've pounded it and it wont go
+Alec Timmerman You can soak it with penetrating oil or wd40 and try to use a hammer and punch to drive it through. If both ends are mushroomed you may need to grind it down smooth first.
I have a Whistler WH655.F09 with the date code: 98495. The part I need is not the worm gear but the big round one. The part number on it is: 360.3929. I know that it is really a Stanley part. Do you have that part or know how to make another one work in there? Buying a new opener is my last resort. I would rather buy the just the part I need because it is much cheaper and is really the only thing that seems to wear out in these openers. My garage door was iced together and caused the opener to strip that darned plastic gear. Would metal gears be any better? I hate these plastic gears. Do they only do it to cut down the manufacturing costs? I would rather pay that small bit of money they tried to save and have metal gears instead. Do I need lithium or silicone grease for the plastic gears? I have some good Teflon grease made by finish line and it is very good stuff. Mostly what I need to know is do you have that part or know how I can make a similar one work? If you have that gear I have another opener same model and date code that has suffered the same fate and you can clearly see why I just want the parts. With all my free time I have not been able to find that part. I keep finding that part you have been replacing. It makes me feel left out :^(
