what your thought on shims being use to raise front of 1947 Lincoln continental--400 ford engine,front end needs raise about 2 inches---it came out with a v12 weight about 750-400 ford about 550 so engine is not to heavy-- just wondering if you think its worthwhile thanks good video
@@AutoRestoMod they are great and the have the bushing for the spring perch (1 3/8" x 9/16"). I have the whole setup on my 67 mercury comet. I may need to do a shim so I'm not sure how that will work with the spring perch bushing just yet. But love the channel 👍
My drive line is 3 degrees down, pinion is 6 degrees down after a 3 inch drop. Drive shaft is 2.5 down. I have 3 degree shims.I think I should put them in with the fat side towards the front like you did, but everyone is telling me to put them in the other way. In all the videos I see, people are putting them in with thick part in the rear- lowered and lifted.
If your engine is 3 degrees down your pinion should be 3 degrees up. Forget driveshaft angle. If your pinion is nose down you have a long way to go. With 3 degree shims (fat front) you would still be 3 degrees down.
For axle location, why not use a longer spring clamp bolt, along with spacer that extends through wedge into spring perch? Bolt head would likely require angle cutting. OR If bolt head is too thin after cutting, use grade 8 all-thread with coupler nut for locator, likely have to reduce it's length in addition to angle cut. G'luck.
I know this was four years ago, but was there ever a resolve to the axle location problem?? The next episode numerically was a different subject, so I was just wondering? I am about to do this and have the exact same rubber isolator. Aside from finding the exact diameter tubing, and welding an angled stub long enough to reach through the shim and slip into the saddles on the axles, I don't see any other way to do it?? Thankfully I only need a 3.5* shim, but still I want the axles sitting where they're supposed to, and not being able to move.
Maybe just a straight tubing extension would do the trick. I mean the tubing for the saddle location would probably slip into the hole on the saddle even at a 3-4 degree angle, but I would have to check that I guess to be sure? I DO want a somewhat smooth ride, so keeping the isolator would be my choice. I got new rubber for them a few years ago and it's 100% factory... Monday morning I am heading to my NAPA store to get some new U bolts anyway. I don't believe in using them more than once.
1 inch NPT pipe is nearly the exact diameter as the original axle locator pins, I cut off some 1/2 lengths of the pipe, and welded them to the top of the original stamped locator. I welded them on the inside to stop the the welds from sticking out and causing an issue with the shims. The original lip on the insulator bracket fits pretty loose even in the original application, so the slop takes care of any of the angle issues. My axle dropped right onto the extensions I added, and fit perfectly.
making the cross member for my 4r70w next week. was going to aim at level car and level transmission pan in the 69 Fairlane. will mod the tunnel whatever it takes . Am I screwing up? I think you are saying that level trans pan gives you tail shaft down 2 degrees and that is ideal correct ?
If we could get the transmission level, yes. The 4R70W mainshaft exits lower than the C4 I think. And with 3/8ths of shims I am still at -4 degrees. I would have to pie cut the floor and weld in wedges to get a good fit. Not doing that.
2 degrees up 2 degrees down So, ideally 4 degrees is the magic number... A long time ago, when I was in college, I was taught pinion angle should be be between 4 and 7 degrees, still true....
Excuse me sir i have a question i have a 1981 ford f100 with a 76ish 351w i have issue with distributor i think i have issues with cyl 2 and 3 with fire my distributor has a bit of play at bottom and fire seems to be intermittent if i move it some? But if im running motor it doesnt change in idle it always seems to be on 7cyl exhaust note has puffing sound indicating only on 7? Please help
I cut some extensions out of 1 NPT pipe, and welded them to the top of the stamped lip on the insulator plate. My axle dropped on without an issue. There is a bunch of slop in the saddle holes, so that should take care of most any shim angle difference. Just make sure the extensions aren't too long or they could contact the housing and eventually rub a hole in it.
So... because the engine and trans were mounted wrong, for convenience sake, this has become a cluster. Dump the isolators. Put a bushing in the spring perch. I've done several Fairlanes. Look at FatMans bolt in link kit.
@@AutoRestoMod Or... Give actual instructional videos to match the title and have the rest of the "two guys talking about nothing for 10 minutes" as a separate video for people who appreciate the channel and are following your projects. Take the constructive criticism. Your video quality is good but your methods are literally backwards as your comment makes very clear.
OMG luv watchin your shows but being a machinest 35yrs this hurt to watch ! that was how can i say it nicely BUTCHER should have had that wedge line drilled or bored and with some kind radius or countered bore.
Sorry gents, but your set up looks dangerous, especially if exposed to hard acceleration or chuck holes. I think I have a better solution. I used the same pinion shim you showed but put it between the leaf spring and the top plate (used the rubber insulator too) . All I had to do was make a longer center pins. I went to Ace hardware, bought hardened machine screws with round heads that were the same diameter as the original center pins. Found steel tube the same diameter as the screw heads to make sleeves that extend the centering diameter length. Now everything centers up with no worries of the axle moving or having the shims slip out of position. Just my backyard solution.
