How To Install Rear Remote Hydraulics on a Tractor | Super Easy 

Single Spool Remote Hydraulic Kit Used In Video: amzn.to/2LOoSvH Crescent Wrench set 170 pieces for ALL your needs amzn.to/2HsYDa4

There are no metric bolts on that tractor. The knob you are playing with only controls the speed the lift arms drop at when lowered. There is no pressure in system when tractor is not running.

Wow. Interesting, being an ag mechanic from the 80's in a ford tractor dealership, it is like WOW how things seem to gotten more complicated from the original simplicity. The original valve was a simple spool valve that diverted "flow, not pressure" remotely or internally a push it in or pull it out. If you wanted to control a single hydraulic system there was actually another option to control the flow diverting for control for a single purpose with a lever under the seat. A good idea but as handy as pockets in your underwear. That little remote system had a lot of options, and those fords used the British to imperial bolt dimensions .

First there’s not one single bolt on that tractor that is metic. Second there never pressure on a tractor system if it’s not running. Thirdly

Awesome video i need to do the same job to my ford 5000.

Righty tighty loosey goosey? You mean lefty loosey? Lol

lol ....you got it done and hey you learned about SAE and Henry Ford

Love the paper bad tool bag..

Thank you Sir!

Thanks for the video. Nevermind the comments trying to correct everything

Thanks more to learn

Good on ya mate! Don’t listen to the haters 😉👍

Go find a nice deep lake right, rent a boat bring a fishing rod and a couple of beers. Then head out have a good day fishing bring a friend and just before you head back in catch that adjustable spanner and throw it as hard as you can into the lake and go out and buy a socket set for yourself and stop rounding bolts

Brilliant job.💚⚪💛.

Thanks for your video

good job

that screw is just to get the oil out. the screw at the top over is to fill oil. this is just to lubricate the regulator screw. if you wan't to get rid of air in the system, there is perhaps a tube crew coupling with a small hole in it to release air.

I looked on your link at amazon and it was $294 with free shipping.

Well, my two cents worth...before removing the old hydraulic manifold you need to thoroughly clean the area around the block. After removing the old part, you should have cleaned all of the rust and corrosion off the mating surface. When you install the new o-rings, I find it is a good idea to liberally coat them with Vaseline before installation. Lastly, there is a metric bolt/nut on the tractor. If you ever have to replace the steering wheel, the mounting nut is metric. At least it is on my Ford 2000 built in 1975. Otherwise enjoyed your video.

I did the exact remote kit as you did in my ford 4000. It worked out very well. I’m a first time tractor owner and have been figuring most of the “tractor “ stuff on my own. This video helped me get rear remotes access and I really appreciate you making this. The rear hydraulic top link did though won’t hold solid hydraulic pressure . I found that I needed a different hydraulic cylinder, it needed own with a hydraulic check valve installed on the top of the cylinder. After I did that it would hold the pressure off the attachments that I’ve been using. My question, did you ever change the grizzly top link that you used in your other video?

So how is it working so far? Debating on whether I should go this route. Thanks!

I wonder if I could do this to my Ferguson To20?

Good job

A few pointers: 1. Never open a hydraulic system without first thoroughly cleaning the area where you are working. Paint chips, old oil carrying debris, leaves, sticks, plain old dirt, etc, must not enter the system. Dirt is death to a hydraulic system. 2. Never use an adjustable wrench to crack a bolt loose. As you mentioned, it can round off a bolt head, and usually does. If you can't afford a socket set, don't work on machinery. Better yet, just never use an adjustable wrench. There's a right tool for every job. An adjustable wrench ain't the one for this job. 3. Buy a torque wrench. 4. Use the torque wrench after you buy it. 5. Don't use teflon thread tape in hydraulic systems. But, if you have to use it, make sure it does not cover the end of the fitting, as it did in your video. Although, you did catch it and push it off the end before attaching the fitting to the outlet. 6. If you do use thread tape, at least wrap it on the threads the right direction. You wrapped the first one the correct direction. The second one you wrapped backwards. What's the difference? When you wrap it correctly, screwing the fitting in the port will continue to wrap the tape into the threads. When you put it on the threads in reverse, it will "unscrew" the tape off the threads as you screw the fitting into the port. Think about it and you'll see what I'm talking about. 7. I didn't see if you ever found the relief valve. It's screwed into the bottom of the tractor hydraulic reservoir housing (rear end housing) roughly below the valve you are installing. These are incredibly tough little tractors. My 3000 diesel is a 1965 model. I've owned it since 1980 and absolutely worked the heck out of it. It has never let me down. I'm getting ready to do a full restoration on it this spring. Adding one of these adapters is on the agenda, which is what brought me to your video. Unfortunately, the flow capacity on these tractors is a little low compared to what today's implements require, but if you are patient and keep the RPM's up, they will do the job.

I've always been told to avoid using ptfe on hydraulics. If you let it hang inside it will break off and ball up in the pump and prematurely wear it out.

Greetings, and thanks for the video. I just paid a mechanic to do quite a bit on my 1968 Ford 3000, including changing those orings. I think yours is configured the same as mine - 4-speed transmission, transmission PTO, gas. Can’t tell if you have power steering. My remote is a double, to run mains and bucket on a front end loader. Cool little workhorses. So, what baler will you be using? If you do have the transmission PTO, the flywheel on a square baler will still push the tractor forward when you push the clutch in. You can put an overrun clutch on to let it coast, which most of us have done to keep a brush cutter rotor from taking us into a fence or creek etc. Judging from the lack of a second shifter for hi-lo 8-speed transmission, you won’t have independent PTO. It is possible that you have a 2-stage clutch, that stops wheels at halfway and stops everything at fully down. I think those have 33 hp at pto. I guess that’s enough for a square baler. It’s probably not enough for a big round baler. From the PTO limitations, I don’t think it would work for any baler that required pto during a stop to tie the bale.

Thanks for the video. BUT You put the seal tejp the wrong way around.. It chould always be put on clockwise on right hand threads.

There is no pressure built up anywhere in the system until a control lever is moved while the pump is running... this magic is accomplished by an UNLOADER VALVE in the open center system of these good old fords...

basically you just take off the plate and put the valve on and then run the lines

Did you ever do a bailer video? What kind and size bailer do you have

Hello! Do you know how to make your remote valve single acting? I'd appreciate the tip if so! I haven't played with mine so if you know it will save me some experimentation!! Thank you!

Looking for hydraulic hookup for a ford 3910 with a front end loader I’m wanting use the front end loader while using a round baler and was looking for advise for what hook up I’d need. I already have one remote coming out of the back of the tractor that runs the front end loader but now I’m needing to add so I can run a round baler.

All your would do to bleed off pressure is shut the tractor off then operate the implement controls with the tractor off and it will release pressure. Then you can detach the hoses

Will you have enough HP to operate a round baler?

Good morning

Thanks. I love the comments from all the expert-wannabees on here. Half of them probably are borrowing their mommy's tools in their dad's garage. Meanwhile I found this video very informative and interesting to see how straight-forward putting one of these kits in can be. Thanks for doing this!

Get a wrench that fits and can the crent wrench

Interesting video and good work for an amateur. By the way, how about oiling all the moving parts and pivots that are rusting and wearing away on your link arms etc?

Would this work on a Fordson Major?

The old 6000 series had an acumulator that held preasure when engine was not running thats where the fear of opening upthe system !The old 6000 would raise the plow out of.the ground without engine running all the newer fords do not have this feature

is work on zetor super 50?

other site for hydraulics ?

You should take some air and blow that dirt and debris off the top before you open that cover.

I wouldn't think there would be any pressure if the pump wasn't running.

I love "how to" videos showing others how to do things when obviously they don't have a clue what they are doing.

Right Tighty, Loosy Goosy :'D

Bu traktör kaç vitesli? Tek vites kolu görünüyor.

I didn't know that the Ford 3000, or ANY of the old Fords, used metric fasteners.

I bought a 2 spool valve of the same manufacturer and torqued the bolts to 45 ft-lbs and oil leaks from all sides. The seals were in place and surfaces were clean. Anyone else have this problem? Oil seals not thick enough?

Does it matter which hose goes on top or bottom when attaching them to the bracket? I figure there has to be a standard that all tractor owners go by. I'm not too familiar with the hydraulic system. Is one pressure and one return?

Özmenoğlu hidrolik😀

For ford 4130 why this mode don't work can you help

Would this be similar for farmtrac 60??

Would this be similar for a ford son super dexta

bjutiful song birds

Teflon tape wasn't needed, these are not pipe thread fittings. I like the part when you ran the tape backwards. I didn't see any o ring's on the fittings you used the tape on. Did it leak there when you were done?

If on a ford tractor, 2 drops of oil leak (very hard), but in 8 years no one has put oil in the gearbox. A bit of noise at speeds of 1,600 revs, WHAT HAPPENS? The braces are lifting, I'll fill them up with fluid asap

A crescent wrench? Are you serious? Good way to round off bolt heads. They are for when you're in the field and have nothing else.

The pressure is run through internal tubing inside the case sealed with o-rings and if the pumps not running there shouldn't be any pressure.

Depending on the ''load'' of the piston (arm up) you can have some pressure in the system * beyond the control spool. These pressures can be deadly. Always, figure out if your hydraulics are ''loaded"... Hydraulics can be deadly! Consider yourself lucky with you just stumbling around in this system... Pascal law is what you need to understand.

Does it work on a fordson super dexta, the dexta have something on that plate you scre, off in the begin of this video, please anser

That tractor was built in the good ole USA with standard nuts and bolts. Get rid of those metric sockets!

Righty tighty😂

Turkısh made özmenoğlu

No teflon tape on hydraulic fittings.

What a plonker, using metric sockets on this tractor.

👍💐

So there’s a pump that pumps fluid and builds pressure…. Got it.

I hate videos were oils are draining right on to the ground. You might have had something down but I didn't see it.

I'm sorry but it is painful watching you use a crescent wrench doing mechanic work.

NEVER EVER EVER TEFLON TAPE

What happened to the skid steer

If you need to tell yourself “righty tighty, lefty loosie“ every time, then you probably shouldn’t be messing around with wrenches and sockets. That’s something for little kids to remember by. I mean come on man....

A lot of these guy replace new parts or upgrade parts but go cheap n lazy out on not cleaning the surface or bolts!!! it is what I hate about taking vehicles to the shop!!! they charge u fucken 2 to 3 times for a cheap parts n not cleaning anything out.

what a waste of time . just take the top off

good job