I have been a roofer for 95 years and I can tell you he is doing it wrong. We used to forge our nails out of old long swords and horse shoes. I used to walk uphill both ways to get the shoes off the horses.
Tommy reminds me of my father. Gosh I miss him and how much he knew. Every day was a learning opportunity. Thanks This Old House. Another excellent instructional video.
I just watched another RU-vid channel on how to install roofing... Then came here. The explanation was much much better and easier to understand. Only thing I liked about other channel was explaining how certain areas of country require more nails per shingle due to wind and why you offset shingles to of course overlap but also making sure nails are covered.... This video hit the nail on the head for me. I think I can do it
Sad due to he left out the importance of staggering shingles. Proper way is to go 4 rows at 6" off sets the start a new row. This will eliminate the diagonal lines you see as the shingles shrink. Look at roofs as you drive around and you will see a diagonal line from eave to peak. That is an improper install. Thank you for reading. Jerry Ray. Builder for 35 years.
Question. I have a leak, that appears to be from nails that are below the tar strip, and just under the edge of the upper shingle. That’s where the deck is soft and there is no damage to the shingles. Why put nails below the tar strip? I saw Tom doing this as well. Is that normal?
he cldve been a brain surgeon. 1m$ a year, saving people but chose to have beers with roger instead.............i guess....................crazy skills tommy boy
I never used the drip edge. I always just flipped a row of shingles over on the edge and then went back over with another row over top as he shows here! I have never seen anyone draw chalk lines vertically across the roof! The drip edge does seem like a good improvement! I highly recommend drawing chalk lines to keep your rows straight! If you are not experienced you may get out of line and it will be crooked!
I was putting up a roof today, and when we realized the wall wasn't straight, my friend from Newfoundland and Labrador got the tow strap out, hooked it to his truck and had it pulled square in no time!
Thanks for saving some money. I was going to buy a whole roll of starter for an overhang. I have to re-roof. I didn’t realize you could use some of the shingles cut down in place. Very helpful.
This video was very useful!! I’m trying to learn to fix the roof of our shed that got busted in a storm and this is the first video I’ve actually understood. Everything was explained very clearly and concisely!
Roofing systems need to be redesigned so that roofers are able to do it successfully. With the modern 100 year old system, fifty different roofers do it fifty different ways and all fifty roofs leak.
Just check out the Swedish standards for roofing. If done correctly it will never leak. Every year all roofs here gets smashed with water from melting snow constantly for weeks without giving way.
How much of that percentage is homeowners ? ANY??? For real Trump wants to build a wall but don't want to roof his own house but whose roofing Americas houses,??... Would that be mexico? So is that krxicans? So with the wall does that mean Trump will roof his own house or did he skate by his whole life... old ass can he even climb a ladder? Lol
I always love these videos, but here's a tip we may all want to follow: **Do Not Cut Your Shingles To Length On Top Of Your Other Shingles**. You don't want to be cutting through the top layer and accidentally cutting into the shingles below it.
Better safe than sorry, but in the video he's just scoring the shingles and then breaking them. With that method you're never cutting all the way through the shingles.
Just shingled for the first time last week. On a garrage. And just a patch. Even still I was thankful I didn't have to leave the ladder. TOH is a big part of why I felt confident enough to patch a squirrel hole for my mother.
No worries at all! My Shed Plans brings me up to speed with professional tips and tricks used by the pros [Go Here=> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. It really let me learn how to handle carpenter equipment, follow the right safety rules, and how to do your projects professionally so that they will look good and last!
OK bit confused I know your a pro but I thought on the eaves you put the drip edge first then the felt over that then on the gabble end after the felt is on you put the drip edge over the felt?
Why would you put the rake edge under of the ice shield? I would think it should go on top. If water blows in from the side it will get on to the wood, there is no way that the water will blow up then in. I always thought that the bottom drip edge goes under and the side rake edge goes over.
Exactly! Manufacturer instructions require the side rake drip edge to be put ONTOP of the paper so driven rain flows ONTO the paper and down. Sorry Tommy but your method forces the rain UNDER the paper where the water will rot the roof deck over time. 😣
Tom, you are not nailing correctly! Your nails should NOT be over the tar strip because it will not seal properly. On 3-tab shingles your nails should be right below the tar line. The nails over the tar stop it from sealing as it should. I live in Colorado with high winds & have had to repair countless roofs because of what you are doing.
@HB C Check out 5:28. There he appears to nail below glue tab. Also 5:53 he nails beneath it. I'm curious if several nail head sized areas would really compromise the glue so much as to cause it to fail. As I recall, the instructions on shingle panel packaging recommends using roof cement for certain types of pitch. I've only done a few roofs, no pro here.
Soooo did anyone notice he started with a full length starter, then installed a full length 1st course shingle right over it. Seems like that is a joint over a joint. Thought you should stagger your starter course........
Seems like everyone has their own method of roofing. Has anyone out there actually read the installation instructions on a bundle of shingles? I would like to think the shingle manufacturers might actually know how their product is to be installed.
To someone who doesn't do this type of work for a living , or isn't paying attention to detail, or doesn't have common sense as some would say. Make sure you are backsetting or offsetting, or more simply make sure you are cutting each course on the rake side or outside . If you cut on the inside they will not line up correctly. I was cutting the shingles from the backside with exposure towards me then when I flipped the shingle from right side to left side the cutouts were lining up on top of each course. Not sure if I explained it correctly ,but I guess maybe I helped someone like me that don't have to much experience or know how in this field. So when I was doing the cuts I was cutting on the left then when I flipped the left to right the cut edge was on my right. The offset looked correct (6 inch offset) , but the cutouts of each course was lining up to the previous course.
The last cap has 2 exposed nail holes that will need some tar caulked on. I'm no professional but when I get 3 caps from the end I run a bead of tar on the edge of the roof then run back and the last cap I cut the tar strip off and tar and nail the last cap in place. I actually scrape some shingle stones off an extra shingle into the tar so no one can see where those nail are.
You don't put drip edge on the gable end until after the felt I thought. If you do it how you did the water hitting the sides of the shingle can follow the drip edge under the shingles and felt right to the wood. That's what I was always taught anyways.
Tom's confusing me. When he put the starter strip on the roof, he said he was overhanging the drip edge by 1/4 inch. When he started the first course of shingles, he stated he was overhanging the drip edge by 1/2". It looked to me like the first course of shingles were placed directly in line with the starter strip. It also seems to me the simple solution to the fascia board rotting would be to use composite material. I use composite in most exterior trim areas now. More expensive but it will never rot, and no painting needed. I would still use a drip edge to protect the leading edge of the roof sheathing.
Depends where you are down south half inch over hang and no drip or take is pretty common go up north drip rake ice and water is almost mandatory with no over hang and everything flush
it is not a reveal but a exposure distance. the shallower the pitch the less exposure and the more shingles you use for the same square footage. it is important that you keep the rain slots in perfect alignment to help channel the water straight down the roof to the edge. if you own a roofing hammer and it still has the screw on the the head with threaded holes that sets you exposure and lets you get each shingle exactly the same creating a perfectly straight line looking down each row. if you have a really shallow pitch roof it is better to use roll roofing and glue down the overlaps. don't ask how i know this. my uncle showed me the rolled roofing on my shallow pitched porch roof. i listened to a expert roofer and use the minimun exposure using shingles and got water leaks from ice dams. shallow roofs need rolled roofing.
You'd think that the old expert would refer to the instructions written and posted on shingle bundles by the manufacturer. They may be different from what Tom did.
My name is Darrell Pierce,Milwaukee, Wisconsin iv been doing masonry restoration for 27yrs. Me and my buddy Scott used to always say wouldn't it be great to learn from Tommy now it awesome he has apprentices i wish i was 20 yrs.younger cuz i would love to learn from him,keep up the great work to all you guys at toh if Mark your Mason is ever in Milwaukee again i would love to show him around the buildings i worked on,some over 150 years old.
This old house, show us how to build a new roof with current codes (like 6 nails per shingle, stainless nails in a salt water environment, and how to install and cut drip edge corners. What tar to use for the eaves, how wide, and how to do a simple eave corner!
I see all these roofers picking Tommy apart. Remember, he is a finish carpenter . Myself being one as well, can say we tend to be little anal about everything. I do agree the vertical lines are a bit much- to say the least.
Tommy, You are cutting the singles on top of the bundle of shingles and you ruin the shingles beneath them and cause a potential problem. You should not show this as a technique for folks watching your video; i'm just saying! Other than that one point, I like the video! Bob
what a crock , ( they claim call up a professional to do your roof ( they say the professional will have safety gear on ( what a crock Ive seen so many Roofers ( they never NEVER wear safety gear ( nouthing ,
And...that's why 1 in 3 deaths are from falling off roofs...did I miss something here. How many people fall off ladders or roofs when putting up /taking down Christmas lights every year. It's a real concern if you aren't that stable on your feet or of an age that makes recovery very difficult.
The drip edge or flashing on the rake or gable end should go over the felt paper. The drip edge at the fascia goes on under the felt paper. This video shows both going under the felt which is wrong. A driving rain from the side could get under the felt paper on the gable end side using that method but if the drip edge on the gable end is over the felt paper, any rain would be on top of the felt and run down the slope to the gutter.
Bingo! I was wondering if anyone else saw that mess up Jonathan. I am not a total expert but I can figure out how water travels and every book I have read about roofing, dating back to my first roofing DIY project in 1990s, the drip goes over the paper on the rake. Is that house leaking today? Nope. My current house, lets just say they messed it up. Water does blow in when there is a big storm.
Just because they are professionals doesn't mean they always do it right. It's probably the way they have always done it but again that doesn't make it right. Common sense should tell you that rain could get under the felt paper if the drip edge is not put over the felt paper.
When the weather is better, going to re-board my shed roof and instead of the crappy bitumen or whatever it was I'm going to shingle it. Should last a lot longer. This video will come in handy.
No there's short cut to make life easier in a nut shell they did it right but nobody goes that above and beyond plus almost nobody use 3 tabs anymore its architectural or steel now a days unless you manage to find a score on t locks but good luck with that
The very last nail that you put will allow rain to seep through the side (eventually). Nail is exposed to rain. How do you plan for last sheet? Over all the video is fantastic (Thanks for the knowledge)
The last 2 nails are tricky. You can cover them with roofing cement, or I have seen some people just cement the final shingle without nails. Or I guess you could even do both...
i made my dog a house out of a single sheet of 1/4 plywood. I need to shingle the top because aside being under a balcony i see water is dripping down. I dont have felt paper so i am gonna shingle it to the plywood. Its been cold and rainy here and I want to make my pooch comfey, he already has carpet in his stabin cabin and good thing is his house is only 24" wide so maybe 6-7 shingles should do it
Somebody changed my house asphalt shingles around 20 years ago. The decking is made of 1x6 pine boards. Should they have added a layer of OSB or CDX on top of the boards before the shields and shingles?? Are the nails supposed to go through the decking entirely and stick out into the attick?? Now, I have water leaks coming through nails and rotten wood around a vent
A few things I didn't like....no real starter shingles being used...no starter shingles going up the slope...low nailing...and cutting shingles on top of shingles.
I don’t understand why you’re not using a starter strip on the outside edge. Isn’t that something that also needs a glue strip to hold down the outside edges if there’s a wind storm it seems like the outside edge is not protected with a starter strip
My ONE gripe....any and every nail you put on top of the adhesive strip is a deficiency. If you nail through the adhesive strip or your nails go in slanted, it compromises the effectiveness of the roof cover. I write reports for insurance companies and all of these things will be considered when making a claim and will be noted as "installation deficiency" meaning the payout will be much lower if at all.
I like the way he explains the drip edge part , but doesn't explain the cutting of shingles, and at first say the shingles are 12 " wide then changes it to 36 " wide. Yeah I know we make mistakes , but I like the show, but do feel that they don't go into details on some things.
I roofed for a period of time in my earlier years and still do it occasionally.... I’m mid 50s now and i can honestly say i have never seen anybody snap vertical lines all the way across the roof!! One line to start but after that there are little notches in 3 tabs to keep the layout straight!!!!
Nobody Special - You do lose some time at the start , but it might make it easier for a inexperienced DIYer . ( I was surprised that he put the drip cap on the ends of the house before the roofing felt . In the past I have seen videos where they put the bottom drip cap on BEFORE the felt but don`t put the end drip caps on until AFTER the felt . What was going on there ? )
@@billeddy4357 Whew -- I thought I was the only one who noticed the drip edge on the gable end BEFORE laying the felt paper. I had to watch it a couple times to be sure.
@@zmurah would it be bc the felt would act as a jacket over it, so if and when water runs down, it runs over the felt all the way to the edge? Otherwise, as I understand it, the water would run on the felt and under the drip edge? I may be wrong, I'm not a roofer and it's my 1st time watching this video
Very poor explanations. 6 inch offset was not demonstrated. I have not idea what the hell this guy is talking about? He did not show how the drip edge is delt with at the peak. Pretty lousey if you ask me.
Sorry got to call you on this you did not run a shingle up the side up Tom I love your show but that’s not right and the way it looks to me you overhang too far on the edge and you did not run a shingle up the edge I’ve been roofing for almost 50 years
It is a graet idea to overhanging drip edge 1/2 inch on facial board, and extra 1/2 inch overhanging started shingles with shingles on the top of drip edge, to prevent water damage. But once the roofer need to come up to roof to fix something later and must use ladder to lean on drip edge and started shingle and shingles, how would drip edge, started shingle and shingles not to be damaged by the weight of the roofer and ladder to lean on them?
a professional brings and drinks lots of beer. I saw them at the house of carlos . here is his address. his wife was yelling and had a beer gut. it was very cute.
The only major thing I see wrong is the rake drip edge should be installed over the underlayment.That is the code-compliant way to do it. Eave drip edge>ice & water shield>underlayment>rake drip edge>shingles.
I'm not a roofer but I'm trying to learn, do you really have to waste so much material... All that cutting... My heart just sank when I saw all that cutting. Hopping you can some how still use those pieces. Good shingles for my shop roof is going to cost $3200. To much money to waste so much
