Probably the best Ryan's Shed Plans on building a shed is hardly found ever . ru-vid.comUgkxcLVQopTIucrxiVRQA0khLGQEnDVKCSMG And Ryan's takes the mystery out of different types of foundation options, etc. He even shows how to build shed with different designs. Very comprehensive, covering different roofing materials, siding, etc.
Quick tip...when applying sealant don't start your bead at the most critical point of potential water intrusion (top of the diamond). Start at the point you want your bead to end and apply sealant in one continuous application toward the termination point. In warm/hot low humidity environments it only takes a few moments of delay or distraction for the initial bead to skin over, creating the potential for the finish bead to pull away from the joint at the first bead as it cures, causing seal failure weeks or months later.
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I like to prefit the boot, then pencil scribe the pipe, pull the boot off then run a bead of sealant on the line, then as the boot goes back on it firm a nicer seal on the inside, then caulk the outside black rubber as well. creates a noise solid bead inside and out for double sealing protection, I also seal the pipe area to roof before boot goes on
You can also apply a bead of sealant slightly higher than where the top of the boot will be located BEFORE you slide the boot over the vent pipe. This insures the boot is sealed on the inside as well.
That many screws are absolutely necessary . When we first started putting metal roofs on 10 years ago we had some pop up because of wider screw spacing.. we also always put sealant around the pipe inside the boot , in my opinion that is a necessary step, just an extra layer of protection. Love your videos by the way.
@ManiacallyYours I had the same thing when I did my roof, should be a firmer metal band for going on flat parts of steel. That flexible one would be ok for forming over a rib, but still the most worrisome part of a metal roof.
I do mine the exact way! Except I put a "v" shaped bead of caulk around the pipe first to shed any water from the hole. It could possibly hold water in the boot and still get in, but it could leak out first before entering the hole if it makes sense.... Great job!!
When I re-roofed my house with standing seam, I remember reading a detail where you would use 2 roofing panels. The lower one gets a horseshoe shaped cut in the top to allow it to run 6" or so past (above) the pipe penetration. Then install a typical shingle-style flashing boot. Finally, install the upper roofing panel over the top half of the flashing boot. No exposed fasteners, and a clean horizontal seam in the roof panels right at the flashing boot. However, I chose to re-route my vents out the side wall under the eaves and elbow up to get my clearance over the roof, because I couldn't bear to poke any holes in that brand new metal!
That was exactly my thought. If I did a metal roof there is no way I could bear to rely on a line of caulk/butyl to prevent water getting under that top flange.
@@frankish5314 yep, i agree, because that boot WILL fail! About every 4 years we have to replace it- but its still worth it, having a metal roof instead of shingles, like this roof used to have. House is 33 years old.
Only problem I could possibly foresee with the 2 panel method is when the boot needs replaced, the top panel is going to be difficult to remove, because you will have your ridge cap in the way.
On my personal stuff, I also slide a regular shingle jack over that. You get another rubber pipe seal plus it keeps the rubber boot out of the sun. The rubber dries out,cracks, and starts a leak on the pioe. So the extra one protects the moulded rubber. I use the galvalume &rubber jack.
Hey Kyle, just throwing this out... after finishing installing the boot, cut the metal off another boot and pull it down over the first. Double seal and the top will protect the under from dry rot by sun. I also paint the pipe by placing protection for over spray and paint pipe and silver metal with truck bed liner spray. Makes the pipe blend in and extra protection for the screws and rubber grommets.
Kyle, you do such an awesome job explaining things. We saw a builder from Iowa do this a while back on his channel & you both did it the same! You mist be doing it right then! I was surprised at all the screws these boots require. Looks good! Have a blessed weekend.
The guys in my area caulk around the pipe first then put the boot on. They use the brand name Thru The Roof caulking. Also the boots they use are a round flange. Cool trick with the square flange boot.👍👍👍
i know this is a common method but the idea of sinking 20+ screws around a single pipe just makes my skin crawl. a good "first step" here would be either caulk around the pipe, or, give the metal a 3/8"-1/2" bend up (or both!) just as a secondary defense. i prefer to make my own flashings out of sheet metal and seam it into the panel. it takes time but its absolutely bomb proof.
What I usually do is put flashband tape around the pipe going over the dektite (that's what we call that rubber thing) which acts as a skirt so that water runs straight over where the rubber meets the pipe. This works so well and irradiates any chance of leaks. The issue with just using silicone around the top is that it breaks down in UV light over time, so the flashband is great insurance and makes the work you've done last way way longer. Just a tip from England. We get a lot of rain here lol
I really like your attention to the details. You're not afraid to spend the time to do it right. Sometimes, too much, is just the right amount.👍👍 Keep up the good work
Excellent Job! For even a better Sealant then the Tripolymer : Is to Use a Polyether Sealant. There are different brands. At a Roofing Supply you could get "GreatSeal", or M1. Polyether sealant from GreatSeal is a Modified Polyurethane which contains zero 0 Solvents. Which Means it does Not Shrink. It has a 500% Elongation at 1/4" Bead, (Meaning it is very Flexible), good adhering to metal, plastics, concrete... Use a generous amount and avoid only putting a thin skin amount on. It works better with an 1/4" thickness or more and then tapered on the edges. You can even use it to fill a large gap, strike it off with a flexible plastic to spread it smooth, seams to work better than the finger at least on larger joints or gaps. Polyether Sealant cures and does not need to "dry out" any solvent out of it. It cures all the way through even on large amounts. Can be painted over immediately. I personally like the Gray Color, as the other colors seam to be a little different consistency. The Bronze is a little bit thicker, but the Gray flows better.
I have very successfully used epdm "witches hat" for more than a decade. Just make sure to wipe down the metal first to remove any contaminants. Apply quick primer, let dry them stick the witches hat and roll the part that contacts the metal. I also apply the sealant just like you did. It's great to see people who take pride in their work.
It can be done, it requires doing it in 2 pieces of metal that are lapped. I've always had the feeling that if you are depending on caulk or butyl tape it's not the best way.
We custom make a flashing all soldered up and layer it between the panels. Instead of running one long panel with a hole for the pipe we run a panel up to the pipe then overlap our flashing over the pipe with standing seems then put another panel on top of that up the rest of the way. Depending on the pitch of the roof we might add caulking between layers as well as a hook at the top of each panel/flashing to catch wind blown rain. But all of this is for custom panels we hand bend in our shop so I’m not sure how applicable this would be for you. Also the flashing is made from metal that’s solderable like galvanized but has a coating that is paint ready and we just paint to match after soldering.
Hey mate, as a standing seems roofer in Germany, we never use those type of seeling. I'd prefer to bent like a 1cm up before u put your pipe out, so if one day water come in, there is always that 1cm of metal standing up so water cannot come inside the building. And we also like to let a little a hole on the bottom tso if water come inside, she can also go out from the bottom :) I not working a lot with steel, more with Zinc, koper or aluminium. U could also do a pipe out of steel, witch cover the all platic pipe then u weld on the rood itself, I don't know If I explain it right. Your way is also good, but I don't trust thos seleant an plastic stuff ^^
Thanks for the video .Good job.. We often put a soaker sheet ,flashing sheet from the ridge down to the pipe to stop the water running in the pan of the sheet.
I guess this is why we (plumbers) don’t do the flashings anymore. I never thought of the diamond idea or the tape. I’d always be super cautious about that top part and would just caulk the shit out of it. We’d run a bead on the bottom, screw it down, then run another bead around it. I’ll do it this way next time except maybe the tape unless they sell a super small amount. I guess the main reason we don’t do flashings is because most of the time we deal with TPO roofs so it really needs roofers to do the flashing. On a side note, I like to see builders like yourself who do most of the building. My dad was a builder/remodeler. When I say that people just assume he was a GC. I have to explain that they did it all. They’d frame, roof, drywall, finish, tile, and sometimes paint. It’s refreshing to see others doing that instead of every little thing being subbed out
Man looks like it wouldn't leak on a submarine haha. Good for you for truly caring past the end of your job what it looks like and how it all functions.
On a new building i have the plumbing, electrical and heating systems through the sheathing and then have a lower and upper roof panels that overlap with standard roof boot between them. I like the seal i get and believe it looks better. I did have to use a similar boot that split open on an existing power pool when reroofing my house and these types of boots definitely have there uses
Same boots and procedures I've used over the years. I agree with the others, cosmetically unappealing. Although I do spray paint the PVC pipe to match roof color.
Hey Kyle, big fan. It would be better to use 2 beads of butyl sealant versus tape on the penetration flange, beucase screws will grab the tape and pull it, which will thin out on either side of the fastener. Also, a good quality silicone sealant (tooled) with colour (Tremco Spectrem 2 or DOW CWS) is better than clear acrylic or urethane. Acrylics and urethans will craze and eventually have a loss of cohesion, and clear will allow UV to penetrate through. A bead of sealant (tooled) on either side of the flange on the high-side and at the top of the boot is great waterproofing reduntancy.
As a Plumber I have vented out the gable wall in the past, and not thru the metal roof at all. I suppose it's depends on the inspector and the local code, but it works just fine.
I will attempt to use one or multiple studor vents just under the deck. No penetration necessary. I know they restrict air flow, but meet code. Worse case, I have to penetrate and will use same method in the video. Never had a leak with those boots, even with a flue for a wood stove. Good job and thanks for the video.
I think i would slide another boot over the top and leave it unfixed or just tacked with a couple of blobs silicone. The top boot will take all the uv and protect the lower boot and minimise the water getting to the lower boot. Like a double cuff on a diving dry suit!
Un trabajo 100% profesional. Felicitaciones y gracias por enseñar cómo realizar un trabajo. Los videos son muy buenos porque nos muestran partes de la construcción que normalmente no las podemos ver por estar arriba de un techo como es este caso.
I like to use the uncured flashing patch that comes with Rubberall rubber roofing. Put that around the pipe first, that gives you great protection, and then do what you did over top. I just like that one extra layer. Also I would color match paint the boot.
I have actually cut the pipe on the roof pitch and marked it on the metal roofing cut it to fit tight and seal. No rubber flashing at all, one of the houses I did this way is close to 20 years old and no leaks. I might want to reseal it this year. The rubber boots on my personal house with a shingle roof had to be replaced at just under 20 years old due to going bad.
Kyle, With your metal working skills, you could make a cut and bend cosmetic cover to go over the boot flange and screw heads with matching roof metal. I know you could make it look amazing. You could even roll a cover to slide over the white PVC unless you have paint to match.
Great video, and I guess I'm planning to do this myself because my plumber, who is doing the plumbing in the new bathroom won't. Who does this work? A roofing company? The right plumber?
I gotta do a vent line on my house and so glad I found this video. Some great tips on the installation. My only problem is my vent line might not come up perfectly between the tin roof ridges. Can that rubber flashing easily wrap around a ridge?
So my roofer did mine same color panel forgot the the hood vent. I have to go and do this as they traveled 5 hours after hurricane to install but are not going to spend 2 days travel for a correction of a boot. Thank you so much!
I did a roof where we had matching color clad sleeves built with a shielding flare at the bottom, a lead sealing lip at the top to hand crimp over the vent pipe(like old school roof jacks). Looks good, sheds water, protects from sun, still relys on boot for seal though.
In Australia we have another pvc fitting that slips over the pipe and is glued in place the covers top of the rubber. We still have to caulk the top where the boot meets the pipe however. It's just another added layer of protection... or as you like to call it, the belt and suspender approach
Another great video Kyle and Greg. Your local building code/regs may say vent through roof, however there may be an alternative. An Air Admittance Valve(AAV) may have been a better option as it could've saved you having to cut a hole in that very nice roof. I'd suggest a quick RU-vid search of AAVs. Might be something you can discuss with clients and your plumber on future projects like this. Excellent content as always. 👍. #bringbackzack
There are also a lot of jurisdictions that have a strict interpretation of the section of the code (IPC/UPC) where it says there has to be at least one stack that penetrates the roofline. I don’t agree that that part of the code is necessary once you understand how AAV’s work, but the inspectors are unfortunately the ones who get the final say 😑
I dry fit the boot and mark the pipe where the boot will ride and put a ring of sealant on the pipe place the boot over the pipe and pull it down carefully into the ring of sealant. Then screw it down.
Never did a metal roof, but you would think the manufacturer of the roof panels would have a better system for a boot. You have spent so much time and effort making sure every cut was perfect and this boot installation just didn't seem to fit in with what you have done.
It’s a pan with a 4 inch riser, soldered to the pan,which fits over the PVC. It’s permanent but.... you obviously have to cut the panel between the seams, then slide it over lower panel, lay top panel over pipe with 4 inch hole cut out. Looks sweet but you have to install as you move along, not going back to retro-fit after the root is on.
You can also use spray rubber some people call it undercoating over your boot as a protective secondary line of defense superseal makes the spray rubber in different colors also just to give you a little extra protection
The roof is incredible and I am definitely considering standing seam for our new build next year! That boot is terrible looking tho.... it should have a fascia or plastic cover to hide the metal strip and screws and continue your meticulous finish
If it was my building as owner; I like what You did but would ask to seal open cut around plumber’s pipe before boot was inserted above. Hard sustained rains like we get in Pacific Northwest produce significant water flow. And wet snow as we got yesterday.
Kyle just had a standing seam metal roof installed on my house. Around the plumbing vent stack pipe the boot they used had round base instead of a square one. You might want to check with your suppliers. Still has the metal ring on top to screw through. Let me know and I’ll check what the brand is they used.
Cut the hole so as small as you can so all it needed is a bead of silicone weather proof sealant the put the rubber boot in place just to protect it from the sun , or like in olden days use lead wipe to seal it with silicone just in case
You're so good at the color matched metal trim it seams you could put something over the top of that ugly shiny part to hide the difference in color...having said that you're attention to detail is second to none so a bit of a shame there isn't a "better" way...
You can two piece your SS panels and use a boot made for ss with no e.f. I'm not sure if metal sales sells one but central states does for sure. That said, the best solution is to run vents to gables if local codes allow.
Thanks for the vid Kyle. I haven't tried this, but I think it would make sense to break the standing seam roof panels into 2 pieces wherever there are vent pipes, and install a slimmer metal type of boot before putting the next roof panel on above it, and overlap it over the base of the boot so that it sheds water. Then again, this would require venting the pipes prior to installing the standing seam. Just an idea
Thats exactly how i do it on metal jobs i do. But using the regular panels works as well, have the first piece extend up a foot above the hole, cut the whole to the size of the penetration hole, try to keep it tight. Then put caulking around it and then a roll of butly tape around the hole before you place the flashing on, then put extra tape when you slide the next panel up onto it. Leaving a 1/2" gap faround for water flow just like you do with shingles. Just have to remove the locking hem if its snaplock on the one side so its able to sit flush. Then throw a rivit on the area where you cut the locking hem off. Yeah it does take time to do but its so much better at water shedding. And looks a hell of a lot better than doing it this way. Only thing is that it would be a bitch to repair if the vent, plumbing stack happens to get damaged to a point to leaking. But then again most standing seam roofs shouldnt need to be repaired if done right.
Me and my dad do metal roofing and we just cut our metal really tight around the pipe and caulk it my dad always says I am not putting 15 holes in just one spot
I'm NOT a pro on this stuff, but I had an idea. Didn't watch the roofing part either, but I thought: if that ridge cap was vented, could you possibly just end the vent pipe up into the mesh under the ridge to let it vent from the inside? Or, is that a bad idea for some reason? Great idea to turn the cover to a diamond for better runoff!
