Installing SunTuf plastic corrugated roofing over Pergola with horizontal and vertical SEAMS. Roof is 14’ by 14’ but plastic roofing only comes 12’ long. NO horizontal and vertical closure strips needed.
So far this is the BEST, and most informative, and smart installation I've come across. Consideration for wind direction and rain fall is very important when sequencing the panel order. Otherwise you'll be re-installing all over again, in just a few years. Great work, and super helpful! Thank You!!
We just finished our porch like you did , had a hard time finding 1 1/4 screws though , 2" was too long and 1" too short for the 1x4's mounting . We didn't use all that plastic mounting strips either , just one end for under roof shingles . Good video and easy common sense , thanks much !
Awesome! On the top corners, I think I would have the top flashing overlap the side flashing to prevent seems for water to get under the side flashing. Great work!
In the original SunTuff PDF instructions it recommends to overlap the edge of the Greca style plastic roofing once as shown in this video. I recommend to overlap it two times to better protect against the rain. I wish I had.
@@wilhallman2890 I wish I had. The suntuff pdf I used did not instruct to caulk all seams. I would use butly tape if I could do it all over again. That works great.
The instruction say to pre-drill with 1/4" bit, but that is too big for the Palmram screw, so I assume they mean pre-rill the PANEL, but not the wood? Thanks.
I notice your deck roof hangs over the house roof, aside from the existing rain gutter, did you install any end wall flashings to keep the rain from entering?
Oh bummer. Thanks for the comment. It’s good to keep educated on what works best. Although, hail can destroy just about anything if it gets thick and heavy enough.
water will go below the flashing with the wind direction and will for sure get on the wood. i think we needed an over hang for couple of inches and flash below the panel.
Nicely done and explained very well, I have few questions as I am planning to do mine, why screwing on the seam ? Can we just screw on where there is no seam? Also on the pergola vertical wood structure, I see some metal brackets, wt r they ? My existing pergola doesn’t have the inclination so I have to remove and re-attach ,just wanted it to be secured. Thanks
More leaking if screwed in the valleys, Debris gets stuck and also the corrugated material won’t be able to expand and contract if screwed down tight to the wood in the valleys.
That’s a good question. It will be tricky but I barely have enough room to get it done when the time comes. The nice thing is that it covers a small isolated section of the roof and the panels keep it protected from the wear and tear of the sun and rain.
There are special screws with rubber washers connected to them. The rubber washers keep the rain out. Look for them in the video. You can find them at most big box stores.
This is a good thought you have. There has been a lot of debate about this. The general consensus is to put it on the peak because it allows the material to expand and contract and also allows for the run off and debris to not get hindered by the screws.
Hello! What type of joist hangers did you use on both sides? They look low profile, I like that. I'm planning on using the same roof panels for my small 4x9 project but I'm thinking of using 2x2 instead of 1x4, but not sure yet. And would you prefer getting the closure strips now? How is yours holding up?
It’s holding up really good. Still no closure strips but use tape along all the seams and overlap by two rows instead of one. Joist hangers weee for 2 by 4s.
This is good to know. I thought if I overlapped it more it would have leaked less. To be honest, the only places where there are no leaks is where I applied Butyl Tape. I say use butyl tape at ALL seams no matter the slope or circumstance.
I made it pretty close but it’s not attached to the house only to the ground. Unfortunately, It’s probably too close to the roof but I couldn’t find beams any longer. We will need to put new roofing on that small section of roof (eventually) and I only have a few inches to work with.
Fantastic question. No i unfortunately did not. The slope is not steep enough so I really needed the butyl tape because I did not overlap it enough due to the lack of slope.
How much of a pitch do you have? Have you had any leaks? Would you have done anything different (overlap by 2)? Do you recommend it? I'm about to install this but I'm second guessing the amount of light that comes thru.
How has the black flashing held up with extreme heat while touching the poly? I was advised to not let black or metal to touch the poly as it will weaken it resulting in cracks.
How did you do the installation in terms of sitting on top of the pergola? Curious about how to do this type of installation taking safety/ability into consideration.
Great video. I am building similar, the front beam will be 4x4, I hope to get 8 feet without sagging. Would 2x6 beam be better? You attached the SunTuf panel directly to the purloin, you didn't use the horizontal closure strips?? I had thought 2x6 rafters better, but your comment below says 2x4 holding. You used joist connectors and not sloped rafter connectors??? Any advice appreciated, thanks.
awesome work, looks great....are your rafters 4x2? how long are they from house to beam? also what size are the purlins? im planning to use same size for my pergola but ive been advised to go bigger to 6x2 to be structurally sound ...whats your experience so far? no sag? welldone to you again, from new zealand
The future roofers might have a few opinions. ;-) How has the one overlap held up? I am looking at doing two just to prevent drips from downpours or hose washing. Necessary?
I wish I did two overlaps because my roof doesn’t have a steep slope. Do two overlaps for sure or do butyl tape along the seam if you only do one overlap.
@@JedsGarage Update. I did the single overlap as mathematically it added up to need one less panel. During heavy rain water does reflect up and under the single over lap and now we have drips on our "dry deck". Ooops.
Would the roof take your weight for maintenance? Obviously with a board or something to spread the weight. That is a descent span would have expected deflection on those timbers. I guess no snow in your area?
@@JedsGarage I think the key is your perlins are more continuous rails without notching which helps with rigidity. Also the number of rafters to spread the load.
How do you caulk it? The directions say caulk between overlaps, so I'm running a bead and then overlapping the next sheet onto it, but this seems to create gaps in the caulk..... so maybe they mean to caulk on the outside?
Good question. I would use silicone instead of caulk. It’s more waterproof. But, this is not needed if you overlap them. If I could do it over, I would Overlap it twice instead of overlapping it just once like I did in the video. Also, the greater the pitch, the less you worry about water pooling. If you do silicone, I would run a bead then overlap like you are already doing.
Good question. You need rafters for support because they are installed at a 90 degree and the Perlins (on top of rafters) because because they are installed flat and perpendicular to the roofing material. I suppose you could just install them on the rafters but the roof would not be as sturdy and you wouldn’t be able to hide the seam. Perlins give you more area to work with.
My rafter’s go horizontally and are spaced about 2 ft apart. I definitely could hide the horizontal seam and tape. Also if you recommend overlapping by 2 valley’s vertically would you still use the sealer tape?
Hi Jed, the official vids I’ve see have the closure strips, as does the pdf I downloaded. Can you post a link to the instructions you found without the strips? (They are sold out all over the place where I am - can’t find them - so maybe they’ve changed recommendations ?
Strips can be used but are optional. Some use them to keep debris from going underneath the panels. The most important thing is that your panels are not held down so tight that they can't expand and contract.
I live in upstste NY, sometimes we get lots of snow, not as much as Buffalo, but occasionally 1' - 1.5 feet . Does anyone knows if those panels ( white) ones can hold it, ?
Well, we got record snow in Utah this year and my panels did ok. Also, the purlins give it the support it need as long as they are not installed too far apart. I installed mine so the purlins were only big enough for me to fit up through when i installed the panels.
Not sure why you say Palram video does not use closure strip, it clearly does. Your screws are pushing down on panel with no support underneath. Had you used the closure strips and put a line of silicone or butyl tape along the overlapping seam you wouldn't have leaking issues.
True about the butyl tape. I had leaking issues because my roof slope was not steep enough. I only have a couple leaks coming from seams. But seriously, I did get the instruction from a professional roofing video on this type of material on not using the closure strips. If you have good washers and you don’t fasten down too much it seals it really well. Also, it’s been a few years and it’s held up really well. But, Use Butyl Tape Along the seams everybody!
@@JedsGarage Considering the amount of labor and cost to build the roof, I don't see the point saving $30 not using closure strips. Makes the connections that much more solid.
Closure strips not needed. Mine has been installed for a few years now and zero problems with no closure strips. The material needs to expand and contract. Check out the video link. But, use butyl tape along all seams and double overlap the panels not just one overlap.
@@JedsGarage Thanks, "not needed" is one thing, but you are advising omitting them, because otherwise no expansion can take place. I need them because I'm installing over full decking, not on a pergola. I don't have the giant rubber mushroom caps on my screws to allow the large holes to be drilled. Thanks for the video link. The one below mentions 1/4" predrilling, which is more reasonable. I plant to tape the overlap between panels with butyl tape.
So after 8 months hows the plastic roof doing ? In Florida and doing a patio cover and not sure if we go this route or metal. The sun is my biggest concern. Reading they seem to "dry" out and crack. And of course we get hurricane winds now and then.
Is this your suggestion or is it from manufacturers installation guide?: "...drilling holes a little bigger than the screws so that poly carbonate can extend..."
Thx for the comment but screws should sit on the top NOT the valley because if they go in the valley they will act like dams to water are are also more susceptible to leaking through.
@@JedsGarage Hello! In Sweden, all plastic roofs are screwed into the valley according to the manufacturer's instructions. The sealing washer prevents leakage. The water has space to flow at the sides of the screw. When you screw in the top, there is nothing to resist and the plastic can be easily deformed and then the washer does not seal. I have installed hundreds of plastic roofs and have never had any leaks. Important to remember to always screw perpendicular to the roof
