Being the first socket on the UK market using lever type connectors I install and review the new MK Rapid Fix socket. MK Rapid Fix at Screwfix: www.screwfix.c...
Hi-fi speakers have had this type of connector for donkeys years, no idea why they've never (till now) been used on other things - is such an excellent idea!!
Crabtree brought a range of switches out in the late 80's early 90's that had push fit connections. In Europe they have these type of connections on circuit breakers etc, manufacturers think we in the UK would not pay the extra cost for this convenience.
Great content as usual and a great time saving product, the only thing I would prefer to do if replacing an old socket and providing there is enough spare cable, is to trim the cables and re-strip the ends, simply in case the previous screw clamps have flattened the cable which may compromise the spring clamping. Keep up the great work and thanks for taking the trouble.
I like it. Never seen those before, they look a lot easier. It has always been great fun trying to juggle a screw driver, the socket itself and the cables. I’m a bit of a geek, I want to cut one open to see how the mechanism works! Great vid, thanks for showing them 👍
Another good video! Tell you what I would like to see, a cross over video series with you and the guys from the eFixx channel doing some sort of 'DIY basics around the house' series with them giving tips whilst you do the work. Probably not possible but it would be a very good series for any beginners venturing into the DIY world.
Thank you! Sounds a great idea and I would be up for it however I think you'll find the 'professionals' from eFixx would not want to be associated with an unqualified DIY electrician like me - I could be wrong.
WARNING: Folk, at 7:53 a neon test screwdriver is shown being used to test for live voltage. This is very bad practice. The neon bulb is lit up via a circuit completed via a high voltage resistor, the metal finger touch cap and the users body. If that resistor is faulty one can get a very nasty, possible lethal shock. Use a proper double insulated voltage detector probe, not this sort of cheap and very dangerous tool. Otherwise this is a nice and useful channel.
I need to replace a damaged double socket so will try one of these. My best practice is to connect the Earth connections first as it 'Grounds' the double socket first, before the Live and Neutral are conected. This will then trip the circuit if a fault were to establish during installation.
Central heating pumps have had the lever style clamps on their electrical connections for years, about time sockets caught up to date. Wago now have a newer smaller style of connectors than the grey/orange ones you showed, they are fantastic and every electrician I know is using them.
Useful. Not seen these before. I expected theses switches to be extortionate, but £5.99 each compared to £3.77 for the standard MK double switch. Isn’t as bad as I suspected. Shame they don’t yet do them with USB outlets built in as that would be good motivation for upgrades.
While it seems handy to have USB sockets around the house, the fact is that this involves having a little AC/DC adapter inside your wall. I don't trust stuff like that on principle, if you end up with some cheap/unsafe adapter it's a fire hazard.
As far as I know, USB sockets waste 5 watts per USB connection even when not in use, I don't know for sure but it might be something to research before you fill your house with USB sockets
Wish manufacturers would put these connectors on the likes of cookers and general House hold appliances , found with cookers are the most difficult to fit because the cables are so thick and rather inflexible and it fits into a very small working area , great video as usual. Thank you .
Thanks. I had bought a pack, but found them difficult to lock onto the conductor. Then I realised, from your video, I was not levering the clamping levers up far enough. All OK now. Another key point is getting the right amount (and not too much) of each wire exposed out of the outer sheath.
Hi Stuart, another excellent video with a very clear explanation. By no means a criticism because I have replaced sockets in my own home in the same way, but this version misses out on some of the checks and testing required by BS7671. I am taking this example to the limit, but I am also a qualified electrical installation lecturer. When a socket is removed and replaced there is always the potential for a cable to pull out or snap off when it is pushed back and screwed down. This won't be apparent using any tester you can plug in because they won't recognise an open circuit on any of the line, neutral or cpc loops. This is determined by testing ring final continuity at the consumer unit. The socket will still work, but it could now be a long radial circuit instead of a ring final. An issue because the 32A mcb is now protecting a single cable with a lower current carrying capacity, i.e. if overloaded the cable melts before the mcb operates. Possibly splitting hairs, but I wonder if the average DIYer understands why sockets are frequently wired using a ring final circuit and what the relevance of the protective device is. With that being said the clear and methodical approach you demonstrate here will definitely help to avoid mistakes.
Thanks! You are completely right and it doesn't take very much to make a ring circuit into 2 radials. If though these types of problems and overloading issues were very common, I wouldn't have thought as a homeowner you would be allowed under Part P to carry out this type of work. Similar to everyone saying my little neon screwdriver tester is so dangerous. If it was, then the lawyers at Kingfishers etc would soon make sure B&Q and Screwfix didn't sell them!
@@ProperDIY Hi Stuart, I work in fire safety now, so very focused on worst case scenarios, but I would agree without reservation that the method you demonstrated, with the MK socket outlet, is a great option for DIYers.
your simply the best clear and easy to follow on u tube i have fitted outside socket with ease after watching you first. it beggars belief that you currently have 3 thumbs down thanks again look forward to your next post
Thank you so much for your positive comments. I don't understand why people do it either (maybe I've upset someone or they are electricians - I don't know) but it appears that some just need to give a thumbs down whatever you do. When I watch RU-vid vids if I don't like them I just move on - life is too short!
Brilliant video, many thanks, very impressed with the technology of these sockets, it sure makes wiring them so much simpler,rather than juggling multiple wires in the same hole, just wandering if the screw that holds them in, has got a good secure grip on all the wires, it's the first time I've seen this in a socket , I know many hifi speakers use this sort of clamping type of design, it sure makes life easier, 👍👍👍
Thanks. Apparently these have been tested and approved as the fixing (like on hifi speakers as you say) has the ability to hold tight enough. Wago also have a number of items like this these days that are becoming more common.
Sorry I have two issues that my OCD is driving me crazy with, first you did not hoover the crap from the back box...and second the screws should be straight up and down or left to right...Please sort this out... I have not seen these connectors before and love the look of them. Thanks again for another brilliant, well executed video.
Why do sparkies always leave a load of crud behind? I always have the vac handy if I'm changing a socket, or even loosening one for decorating purposes
Bought one of these when I saw the @efixx video earlier in the week. Looks good quality. I used to buy MK all the time but switched to BG. BG have good quality, low prices and very clear coloured markings for connections. However until BG come out with a maintenance free one, I’ll be buying more of these MK Logic Plus ones. Good video as always 🙏
Excellent clear common sense approach - Thanks Stuart i am just a Diy’er but have been using the wago connectors which are great and this will make installing sockets so much quicker. Thanks for sharing your experience as always. All the best
I like the new screwless sockets - so much better that trying to hold two cables into one terminal and screw them tight! 3 hands needed. I think the only drawback would be using this socket when its in a house with old flexible wire as this might not clamp tightly.
It would be nice if MK included some screw covers to hide the holes on the face plate, it would tidy up the look. I've resorted to giving them a dab of white primer which makes the screw heads less obvious. Otherwise another good MK product.
Wow come on, it's a socket! Sockets with separate faceplate are available if you're bothered by visible screws. Reminds me of my son-in-law when I took him to B&Q for paint and sockets to do up their first flat and I was paying. Decided he wanted stainless steel sockets as they looked nicer but of course they were £13 each as against a pack of ten standard sockets for £20! I got him six for the lounge but strangely enough, he never bought any more himself...........
Not sure why you would replace all round the house when there is nothing wrong with the ones already fitted! but I am pleased to have found out about them for future need. thanks.
These are great sockets. Beware of those old Neon testers...they can be fatal if they have got wet. Personally, I stopped using them years ago, and if I need similar functionality will use a proximity type light/buzzer stick... Fluke and Kewtech do similar products here.
@@ProperDIY but you’re proving your neon on a known live circuit prior to use, so any fault with that neon tester could result in a you becoming part of that live circuit. I personally don’t completely trust contactless testers either (I’ve never had a false negative with one, but have see many false positives, which don’t inspire confidence) and use a proper probe-type tester if I feel I need to verify a circuit is safe. I’m not an electrician, so this isn’t a professional opinion, but neon testers are well known to be potentially dangerous.
Don't use the "neon screwdriver" for testing. If it goes faulty, you will be on the receiving end of mains voltage! Also, don't use a "volt stick" to prove dead. They tend to lie sometimes. If you want to test for the presence of voltage reliably, then use a two pole device such as a multimeter or similar device.
Personally I would not do anything without completely isolating the supply at the master switch. The circuit breakers only isolate the live side so neutral is still connected. In theory that's ok as it's earthed but I never trust previous wiring.
Only true if you have split load dual rcd, any decent rcbo board will be double pole so each switch is a true isolator, just fitted one and they aren't expensive anymore.
Great video yet again… I found these A few months ago and I use them all the time so much easier and quicker to use as you said with them being colour-coded thanks for sharing this video with us👍👍👍👍
It is possible to find circuit breaker isolating devices. They attach to the CB plastic flipper and you use a small padlock, this prevents the CB from being turned on
Interesting and useful product that I wasn't aware of, definitely worthy of consideration next time I need to replace a socket. I just don't understand why we still insist on having the fine threaded screws which are over long and take ages to screw in to fix the faceplate to the backbox. In Spain they have had these spring connections for years and the front face simply clips seperately onto the purpose designed backbox, so truly "tool-free". One question... Why are you going to the expense of replacing all the perfectly good sockets in your home?
That’s what I was thinking 🤔 nothing wrong with the ones that were there. No change cosmetically so maybe a bit of unnecessary waste here 😬 not criticising , just an observation!!
@@Naughty_Squad its not about perfection Elvis, it’s more about, that a poor electrical contact will lead to overheating & destruction of the socket if say a high consumption appliance is plugged in for a lengthy period. For the sake of trimming the contacts back 5mm you potentially save the socket & the wires from damage.
Thanks Stuart. Agree with the comments - essential Friday viewing 😁 learnt a lot here so thank you. Nice to see some jobs inside the house - keep them coming. Will take a few things away from today 👍🏻
I received the usual product email from Screwfix the other week and these sockets were being shown in it, and i was wondering about maybe changing the downstairs sockets in the house with these new ones, they look much easier to do with that clip method and now you have shown us how to fit them in the video, so i might just get some now. Thanks. Stay Safe, Barry (Wirral)
@@andymerrett When i moved into this house the sockets were not the best looking but were working ok, so if i came across any decent sockets to one day replace them then i will do, gradually. Stay Safe.
All well and good but not always.If your wall box is 25mm these may not be that straight forward as they are deeper and the wire dont connect at the top but halfway down.Its the same with the newish sockets with USB ports and so called slimline socket fascias.You need a 36 mm backbox especially if you need to extend the wiring.I think building regs on a ring main state that now anyway for a new build.
Great tutorial as usual, could you consider a video on replacing a bathroom ceiling extractor? I only ask as I can't get a sparky for love nor money to fit one
More than one spur from one socket isn't banned under regs, just not the best of ideas. It's sequential spurs which aren't allowed. Interesting video, and they are great connectors, but given that changing a socket is a minimal faff on a rare occasion, I doubt anyone should be rushing off to buy these unless you have a whole house to rewire, and then they'll be asking for USBs on them all anyway 😉
It is extremely interesting to see the differences between UK and US building practices. FYI the US is 240/120 vac. The area we are in requires metal conduit (pipe). to run wiring in a single family home.
Hi folks, I've posted a warning below about the use of the test probe shown at 7:53. However I wanted to add a bit more about the big advantage of these spring loaded connectors. They are classed as maintenance free. The screw type can become loose over the years as the compressed copper wire very slowly flows away from the pressure point and as a result should be positioned where they can be accessed - using a tool, as required by the regulations - for regular maintenance checks. Not much of a problem with wall sockets. But junction boxes under floor boards are not easy to get at and that's where these spring clamp terminals really excel. They never need checking.
As long as they work. Screwfix has a number of bad reviews (that are still there) - all of them complain of the connectors dropping the wires when the plate is offered up for fitting. What would happen if one of these failed after fitting? A good idea ruined by poor manufacture or sparkies grumbling because they are losing work?
Great video as all of yours are, with clear explanations. I could be wrong however the back box looked to be metal, as such, should it not be earthed? In a very remote scenario: A conductors insulation breaks down and the conductor contacts the back box, the screws holding the socket plate could become live. The back box being earthed would mean the RCD would trip under LE / NE fault conditions. Just a thought. Regards, Adam.
Thanks. The backbox is earthed by connections on the back of the socket automatically when you screw it in place. Earthing it with a fly lead is apparently 'best practice' but not necessary required hence why none of my sockets in my new house has a fly lead.
Great idea to simplify installation clearly explained. Does the socket not need a bonding wire to earth the metal backing box ? ? Also if the existing sockets are ok, why do you need to replace them ? ( 10 sockets about £60 )
The copper conductors were bent and indented by the screws when removed from the old screwed socket. The wires must be cut, then stripped to 10mm which reveals a clean undented straight copper conductor before inserting into the screwless lever Wagos.
Great video Stuart, would always recommend a check with a multimeter instead of the phase tester if possible, keep them coming! Essential Friday viewing
@@millomweb I totally agree, I've seen people use a screwdriver to open the earth pin on the socket to release the latch to access the live and neutral! Proper cringe worthy! Hahahaha 🤣
Love your videos! Looks a decent product, and I’m shocked that fits in a 25mm back box, looks far too chunky. If you do another video about electrics, you should mention that it’s always worth having a decent amount of cable poking out the wall, then bending it in the middle so that when you take the sockets on/off the wall there’s plenty of length and it makes it easy to rewire. I only found that trick out a few months ago and I wish I knew it decades ago!
Thanks for showing us fans how to change a perfectly good socket with a very easy system... I didn't know these type of clip sockets were available... Thank you Stuart
Excellent. I like the look of these a lot. Love that the are colour coded but do they also have L N E stamped on them? Just thinking about people who are colour blind. Forgive me if I missed that.
Can't wait to see this system in light fittings. Changed the light in the hallway and nearly threw the thing out of the window. Clearly light fittings are not designed by electricians.
i am a bit ocd... ahem.. very ocd about switches or things creating a spark that could cause a fire so when i wire a socket etc i take a long time checking. tightening correctly. and seeing that when ive screwed the cable connector that it is in contact with the wire and not the plastic around it.. and then pulling the wire to see that it holds.. then push the socket back.. then pull it back out again to see if any cables have disconnected. these sockets will save me a lot of over worrying.
The time saving of installation aside these may not take off in the trade as the price is basically double that of a normal MK socket which in itself not exactly cheap. It's taken the trade nion 5 years to embrace the Wago style connectors. When most tradesmen are completing jobs to a price I would put £1 down one of the 1st things to go are over priced sockets.
@@andymerrett Because the older the MK style Logic Plus sockets don't have problems with the soft screws? Many a time I have had to add a spur only for the screw to break the second you try to tighten everything back down on the L N E.
You don’t mention in the video how far you can lift the clamps, I thought that if I lifted beyond the resistance felt i would break the switch, clearly I was wrong. Lesson learned for next time.
Brilliant socket and brilliant video. Have to say though screwing the socket back on can be a nightmare, unlike you, as the screws can be to short in my opinion, any tips how to locate the threaded holes. Alan👍
Speaking as an electrician, I can see these are a great idea, however (there's always a 'but' :-) ) If like around here there are a lot of 1970's houses where you live, you'll find the multi-strand cables used back then simply will not fit into this 'three separate hole' design of socket, it's all you can do to fit them in normal socket holes! Apart from that it's a good idea. I wonder if this design will help with 'copper creep' long-term with high inductive load appliances?
As an electrician from New Zealand, we use stranded cables here more often than not, if you were really concerned about the wire strands, you could use crimped boot-lace ferrules on stranded wires.
Hi Stuart. Do you know if MK makes socket converters (rapid fit)? I have a socket in the living room which I need to upgrade from a 1gang to 4 gang. I don't really want to mess around and install a new pattress box.
Much easier socket than with screws,. with screws, the wires tend to come out when you tighten them, this is quicker and more secure, like wago connectors
Agreed. It's not great if you want a flylead, that said the socket has a strap that connects the earth connectors to the fixing screws, so it will protect the backbox that way
I have a question about light switches I have changed. Two of them keep tripping the circuit when I fully screw back into the unit. They don't do this when the switch is wired, but not fully screwed in. Could it be exposed copper that's connecting with the metal unit when it has been screwed back in? Thank you
@@ProperDIY Asked an Electrician Friend. Apparently the sockets now come with the earth to the faceplate screws. The back box is earthed by proxy when the faceplate is applied. The screw in the back box is for older style faceplates that don't have the earth bus going to the faceplate screwholes.
@@mrdarn But, surely the back box doesn't need to be earthed when the faceplate is in fitted because you can't touch it then. But it does need to be earthed when the faceplate is not in position and you can touch it. This is illogical (Captain).
@@helenapearson5168 But the screw on the front of the faceplate directly connects to the backplate, making a circuit through you if a live wire touches it. I believe this is why the collets(?) are not protected by extended earths by default. You can see the copper washer-type-thing in most modern faceplates where the screw penetrates the faceplate, earthing the back box via the screw.
I have just bought some chrome switches for my house, but they don’t have N, L and E on the the back, they say com, L1 and L2, when did they change, also I did not realise that because they are chrome I need to earth them, how do I do this.
As I understand it, copper "relaxes" over time, so a screwed connection can become loose, resulting in a poor connection, ie higher resistance and worst case, overheating if a high current appliance is in use. For this reason, screwed connectors are not allowed under floors etc where they cannot easily be checked for tightness. Having said this, not sure how much of a problem it is in practice. Screwed connectors have been in use for quite a few years 🙂
I have a new house and the current sockets are really cheap and feel cheap. As it is they are safer for children as well due to the special shutter mechanism