Add thin insulating tape on the left side bar before sticking the eleement or it takes ages for the heat to warm the grip, all the heat just goes into the aluminium bar.
In the video you state the resistor is connected to the Low power side of the switch. On the diagram presented in the video and the instructions as delivered with the product it shows the resistor on the Hi power leg of the switch. I'm no genius. Just looking for clarity here. Thx in advance for your time.
The switch is actually contacting the bottom connector in the diagram when in the HI position. It contacts the upper connector when in the LOW position. Hope this makes sense
you put one element on plastic (throttle) and the other on aluminum (clutch). Did you check the difference in temperature? The left side should be colder, is it a difference you would notice with the hands?
Yeah, that's why we brought that up in the video. It's really important to use the electrical tape/and or zip ties to prevent that issue as well as making sure you have enough slack in the wires going to the throttle tube to make sure they aren't binding up. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7NHgM2QoMPY.html -Charles
@@rmatvmc even with strain relief the solder is so weak it can break from vibration and throttle tube movement alone. If people want it to work for 2 months then have to rebuy go for it. After buying two sets of these on two different bikes with same results, I’m out. CHEAP!
Is it possible to use a single-pole single-throw switch without the resistor inline to have "high only" heated grips? I want to use the MotoMinded switch on my MM dash. I don't care about low power mode and definitely don't need a hot resistor on the bike.
@@rmatvmc You should be more specific in your instructional video. In the video, he says 12V "or" "key on" power. If there is no fuse in your kit, then you should specify to only use switched power. You mention it's a good idea to use switched power to prevent draining your battery if left on, but in reality you should use switched power because you want over current protection if your heaters degrade and start pulling more current and cause shit to burn. The more I read responses to comments from RMATVMC, the more I realize this kit is shit. No fuse, and a garbage cheap switch so you can deliver the cheapest cost grip heater kit.
Doesn't using a ground/negative on the chassis reduce performance given that the chrome moly chassis will be a poor conductor/high resistance versus a direct negative copper wire to the the battery or bus bar?
If you actually use a DVM and ohm out your ground location to your negative battery terminal, you will get an idea of how "good" your ground is before committing. Anyone who is unsure or not capable of doing this should probably just ground to the neg terminal of battery or find the engine ground strap.
Is this the same with clamp-on grips ... does it work through the clutch side ? And the throttle side already has the grip attached ... I assume it needs to be replaced after inserting the element beneath it?
@@ByronStuck We carry the Bike Master and A'ME heated motorcycle grips. You can check those out here: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/search/go?w=heated+grips -Charles
@@rmatvmc Thanks ... but I wanted to see if the "pad" style heater that's been your bread and butter would adapt ... and since it does NOT, apparently now I have both invested in a clamp on grip without heaters and now I need to invest in one WITH them ... and without much grip choice ... not what makes me happy
We glued and zip tied it to the top of our triple clamp. If you don't have room there, you can attach it to the lower center part of the handlebars. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7NHgM2QoMPY.html
