To answer Alot of your questions up front....since installation I have recorded a difference of about 10 degrees cooler inside on hot days . Which is effectively a 20-30 degree drop from what it would be without the insulation since the radiant heat would have caused it to actually be much HOTTER inside than outside on hot sunny days. I've also noticed about 10 degrees warmer on cold days. (This is with no conditioning) - No I am not relying solely on double sided tape to hold this up, near the end of the video you will see that I also added staples and screws! - One afterthought is to also use small L brackets to secure the wood strips to the frame. - I have 0 condensation issues since installing this! - Also, yes many of you say spray foam is better and of course you are probably right....but it's more expensive ...and this works for me! - I have since conditioned the space and achieve very comfortable working conditions (75° inside vs 98° outside) with this combination at a price I could afford! Stay tuned! Thanks for watching!
Put some "real" insulation in that building and do some testing. I have compared both ways and the foil bubble sheet is basically useless, and a waste of money. But, if you feel this is the best use of your money, then by all means, go for it. Cheers!
I can send you our thermal treatment (like paint) maybe you can use it and give us a honest review, we are bringing it to USA in the next couple months and its even Waaaayyy cheaper than all that you did, what do you think? I am at Nevada.
@@PatriotDIY Sorry to disagree, but i have done my own testing and the bubble stuff basically does nothing. The R-value (thickness) of the insulation is ALL that matters and the bubble stuff has very little. R-value means insulating the cold from the hot - the thicker, the better . . period. A 1/4" thick piece of insulation is worthless. But, if you feel it works for you, i am happy for you :)
@@outdoorzee919 lol well I don't know anything about your testing ....all I can tell you is that my shop is consistently 10 degrees cooler than outside temp on hot sunny days and 10 degrees warmer on cold days. I've documented it in video on my Facebook page facebook.com/PatriotDIY You are welcome to disagree and do something different if you choose and no doubt there are better and more expensive insulators, but all I can do is show you what I did and report my results!! Thanks for watching 😉
Finally someone that can walk chew gum and show actually how to do something without having to know the name of your pets your grandma your great grandma and your fourth cousin removed
@@VanillaAttila Figure about 1/3rd more which seems quite expensive until you consider the possibility of a high wind condition taking that new building out with all your equipment inside. If a panel rusts out, how much will that cost for replacement? With closed-cell insulation, you can more easily cool and heat without moisture buildup at the interior metal surface. Even an inch will do the trick.
@@Cspacecat That's what the aircgap behind the bubble wrap does. As far as building blowing away, if you're counting on closed foam isulation instead of positive hurricane tie-downs holding frame to ground, good luck!
Nice clean looking job! You left space between the metal and the insulation giving air a place to move instead of condense. Is it possible to connect the wall space cavity to the ceiling space cavity and then vent out in the peak? Also to accomplish this, small vents could be made at the base of each wall cavity. I've found that moving air will dissipate the moisture and reduce the condensation. Air should rise naturally to the peak and vent out moisture....just thinking. Any opinions on this? At minimum, vent the roof.
Nice job, love the clean look inside. I’m patiently waiting for my 24x36 metal garage to arrive. I will certainly be following along with your tips on your channel.
@@Gokywildcats11 hello, I ordered thru Viking Steel Structures which is a dealer for Carolina car ports. I’ve had my building for a couple years now and I’m very happy with it. I ended up paying for their insulation package for the walls and ceiling which is only plastic foam board that is about a half inch thick that is installed between frame and walls. The cost was almost 13k for everything except concrete.
Thank you for making this video. So many great takeaways. My wife and I did a similar project with similar materials, and watched this video many, many times before starting it! We used the wood strips to create an airgap, and double-sided tape. I ended up using construction adhesive for the remaining walls because we ran out of the tape about 3/4 of the way to completion. So far ours is holding up, but we need to add more vapor barrier tape on the edges. Thank you for your content!
@@jeffreyparker130 not instead of but in addition to. I would add as many mechanical fasteners as possible. Screws, staples, wood batons, wire etc… anything to keep it from sagging in a couple years.
I am wondering why you didn't attach the furring strips to the front of metal studs and cover the wall studs and ceiling rafters with the insulation? Those metal studs transmit a lot of heat and cold. It would also give you a larger air gap and prevent the insulation from touching the wall metal in between the furring strips.
My first thought was, "well, isn't the metal exterior acting like a radiant barrier already?". I read up on it prior to watching the video and realized I was wrong. Great install and great details in this video!! Thanks for putting out quality content.
Exactly what I thought when I initially put up my roofs. Then I found out that the metal actually radiates from both sides and the energy from the sun is actually being radiated inwards by the metal panels. I was shocked to learn that this made the inside of the building even hotter than it was outside.
i have a similar building. I couldn't afford the insulation at the time of build ($10,000) so i decided to do it later. i like the idea of yours to do it this way. But i have been thinking the metal attached to the metal studs do draw heat and if that beam could be insulated with like a cover of foam board it would help drop the inside temps as well. thanks for posting
i have seen people do the insulation later on and they eventually found it alot faster to just remove the roof panels and install radiant barrier inbetween the sheets . took a week to do cause of limited time cause of 12 hrs job shifts. I may do the same thing on mine
Great job! You are correct about the air gaps and it actually provides an increased r-value. We used foil faced foam board in ours with an air gap, supporting the ceiling boards with a non-conventional method. Has worked very well.
@Jim Cole I am sorry I am not able to visualize your non-conventional method. If you don't mind, could you please elaborate? Or any video or website that shows your method? Thanks in advance. Merry Christmas
@@goodingwashington6099 I will be posting a video of the install when I'm done with the building. 'Will be in Spring/Summer of 2022. Merry Christmas to you as well!
@@jimcole6423 It's about summer of 2023 now...Still not too late to upload those videos if you're still hanging around youtube. It will be greatly appreciated to see how you did yours. Thanks!
What happens during the winter? Do you know if the warmer building air in the winter causes any condensation between the foil insulation and the metal roof. If so, does this cause a mold issue?
In this installation, there isn't anything to support mold, in the ceiling. The furring strips in the walls could support mold. Mold and fungus require organic material to "feed" on, not metal, nor synthetics. Rust could be an issue, though, if condensation develops.
I wrapped my cabin Graceland shed entirely with Reflectix. Excellent results.over 100 outside hear index 114F and inside the cabin was 74F. Awesome system. The dead airspace is essential.
Really effective way .only a person without knowledge of thermodynamics would disagree. Very good video. I have used it in three of my buildings in last three months. In hot sunny season its really very very good.
I did something similar with foil backed foam board. But I was able to fit it in from inside . But I would see how putting it in from outside would be easier in some cases .
Thanks for this. Much cheaper than foam. I live in Texas. It gets 110+ degrees during summer and as you highlighted in your video, inside temps are much higher. I was curious how does the adhesive handle the heat? Thanks!
I have a metal building that is insulated the traditional way like your video showed at the beginning. It would always be hotter inside the building because the beams would get hot from the roof, and the insulation would hold the heat in. It would get extremely hot inside to the point it was unusable when it got hot outside. I put the Henry cool roof coating on the roof from Home Depot, and it’s like night and day. It went from always being hotter inside to always being cooler inside. One thing though, I have a 15 foot carport extension on one side of the building, it is not insulated like the main building, you can see the underside of the roof in the carport. I also put the cool roof coating on the roof over the carport, and it now rains in the carport do to the extreme condensation that occurs in certain conditions when it’s cool at night and warms up quick in the morning. The warm moist air contacts the underside of the “cool” roof, and extreme condensation occurs, I’m thinking I somehow need to insulate the underside of the roof in that area.
I was thinking about putting that same roof coating on my metal building. My building is not insulated. Do you think if I put that coating on my roof that I would have the same problem that you are having with your carport section? Also, which Henry products did you use? The $100 for 5 gallon bucket or the $400 for 5 gallon bucket stuff?
Posted some temp comparisons to our Facebook page! Building remains approx 10 degrees cooler on very hot days ( which normally would be 10-20 hotter than outside) and 10 degree warmer on cool days! That is obviously without conditioning!
Really appreciate this video. I decided to go with the Prodex 10M Total plus insulation that looks like yours and has equal radiant barrier, but it has R22 value and built in Class 1 vapor barrier at at little less than 1/2” thick. The saving compared to closed cell spray foam was about 75%. You did a great job with your installation technique as well as the one where you sealed the bottom of the metal tubing against the concrete with silicone. Thanks again!!
Nice video! I have a similar building. Put up sheets of styrofoam, held them up with furring strips on the outside of the foam, attached to the steel beams. Been working, however, I now see a mistake. I have them directly touching the walls/ceiling. One thing I've noticed, the condensation still forms on the beams, drips off of them. Hopefully you won't have that issue. Oh, you just got a subscriber!
@@PatriotDIY hey man i be fixing to be doing mines to. How long ago did u do yo video? What I be done be sayin is I be wantin to do mines just like u be done did in da video brotha. Could u let me know how long ago u be done did it? Thanks brotha
Sorry to let you know that in several years you are going to regret your choice of material. It deteriorates into falling plastic particles. I have a pole barn that I am having to deal with that is about 15 years old.
Just good ole fiberglass insulation at the highest R-value you can put in the cavity, is the best, least expensive, and most effective/efficient option.
It LOOKS GREAT! Well done! This has made me rethink what I might do to my 'bus' conversion! Thank you for showing all the steps and providing the links. Two thumbs up and five stars, young man, from this old patriot! :)
As I’m getting ready to convert a bus, and live in the high desert, may I ask if you’ve thought any more about this and have you done it? If so, how well does it work (or are you still in the planning stages)?
I highly recommend watching Chuck Cassidy if you are considering a bus conversion. He does it for a living, and has great experience and recommendations.
The exterior color and proper roof coatings can also be a lot of help with temperature and moisture and longevity of the structure. Good luck to you and your channel.
Posted some temp comparisons to our Facebook page! Building remains approx 10 degrees cooler on very hot days ( which normally would be 10-20 hotter than outside) and 10 degree warmer on cool days! That is obviously without conditioning!
I had pros install the 4ft wide batting, plastic covered insulation. I'm having major inside condensation problems dripping on my machinery. Anyone else?
Do you have a ridge vent, soffit vents, or gable vents? I have Ridgid foam and reflective foil insulation, it's cut down a lot of condensation but I still get some when temps go below freezing. I started installing soffit vents but my ridge and gables are not vented yet.
Hello and thanks for such an informative video. Question: did the tape hold well ? I am fixing to do a metal carport building and was curious how the tape held up , especially on the ceiling. Thanks so much !
Thanks for covering this topic. Could additional insulation be added to the building after the double bubble foil is installed? In Northern Minnesota winters get really cold. A high R-value could lessen the strain on the heaters.
Yeah use coroplast.....tape ends to make it closed cell.....all white would look good Plastic can burn but less flammable than other stuff if you want you can fireproof coat it....no necessary but you can
I did this to my metal building. The trusses in the winter (45 degree Temp) water droplets formed and dropped on floor after we turned on some electric heat. Same in the summer when I ran ac while painting. In the winter I could here the droplets dropping on the triple bubble shield and draining to the eves. My building 60x40 with 14' eves, 20 ' to peak. I lived in my rv inside building for 2 years before installing the vapor barrier triple bubble. So I know I had no roof leaks after build. I put the vapor barrier in 40x20 living area. I now will be removing the vapor barrier triple bubble and the wood framing. I will have closed cell foam 3" thick R factor 18 and they will flash coat top truss run. Good luck on yours.$2000.00 on foam and $4000.00 on vapor barrier, supplies and labor to install and labor to take off.
Great video. As a fellow insulator I’m always curious to see what my southern friends are doing about this radiant heat. I typically see spray foam installed as it provides a air tight envelope, but I’ve heard great things on this foil product in hot climates.
I’ll bet that Liquid Nails doesn’t stay stuck to that metal very long. The expansion and contraction of the metal will cause the adhesive to let go especially with the weight of the insulation hanging from the 1x2s
Great video! It helped guide me how to proceed with my 12X16 metal building. I like the strips idea to maintain the moisture space. I'm using that idea. But my building has 2X4 framing with metal walls. I'm going to use 4X8 sheets of 2" polypro but cutting to fit in my 24" spaces between them. I'll screw the strips to the 2X4's then glue the cut insulation sheets to the strips and fill any cracks with "great stuff". (maybe a few screws to add more support). When insulated well, I'll consider paneling of some sort for my shed/workshop. Any suggestions/other ideas?
Nice job. You have the ridge vent for the venting of the roof. But where is the hot air in the wall going ? How is it vented to the outside at the top of the wall ? Thx
All it is a bubble insulation with Very thin foil. Wind and heat make it peel off.. You just can't beat home insulation 👍👍You can tack it, adhesive it, or wire it to hold it, or wood strips
That looks like a great option. I've seen several folks have this double bubble stuff turn to almost a dust and start falling apart. Hope yours holds together!
Thanks for your video! I just found out about the double bubble insulation today. I immediately called my building guy and added it to my 26x40 metal building (concrete forms start in 3 days). I was quoted $2400 which I feel is a bargain. It’s WAY BETTER TO HAVE THIS DONE BEFORE the sheet metal goes on.
Double bubble aka double red potatoes aka double egg cell hiding 🙀👽👁️ and they thought I couldn't find it or I didn't now. 🤣 Regards Full Breed, half breed was with only the right eye 👀
"- I have 0 condensation issues since installing this! " this is my biggest concern with my new building so I'm going to be installing this as per your instructions! moisture in a building like this can rust tools and cause mold inside cars QUICK!!
Thanks for this insulation tip. Looking at metal buildings and was wondering which company do you recommend? Or which company did you use for your building?
Think about doing this on my building. I had a question though. What kept you from just running the insulation horizontally alone the walls across the vertical beams? it would have a little bigger air gap. Also wouldn’t have to do all the 1x2 wood work.
Only reason is because I wasn't sure if I'd be covering the walls so I wanted to keep the studs exposed. If I was going to be covering the walls right away I probly would have done what you said
@@PatriotDIY thanks for you input. I think I’m going to run horizontally along my walls and do the Ceiling like you did. Thanks for all the ideas! Got a bunch of good content.
This guy is WRONG. you DON'T need to put the insulation up with an air gap because the design of the insulation has ALREADY got the air gap in it. It's a sheet of air bubble wrap sandwiched between two outside sheets of aluminium . So your air insulation gap is already in the product. You can buy this type of insulation with sticky back, to stick straight on to the surface your insulating.
The flags do look GREAT!!! Bravo!!! I'd suggest at least one or two more: (1) the 15 star-15 stripe "Star Spangled Banner" of Fort McHenry and (2) the Grand Union flag -- 13 stripes + the Union Jack which was used for about 1-2 yrs by the American forces before the 13 star Betsy Ross Flag was adopted on June 15, 1777. And of course, noting that you're in NC, you should definitely add the Battle of Guilford Court House Flag.
Looks like a sink with drain open, and trying to be filled with water. This approach is inefficient as it leaves uninsulated holes. Read DOE insulation research from Oak Ridge, TN. Key finding, uninsulated or poorly insulated area greatly reduce effect of insulation. Uninsulated beams are big holes.
I came across this video because I am having a metal barn being built in about four weeks and I want to insulate it from the hot South Texas Sun and Temperatures. I hope to cool the barn and it's shop area with evaporative coolers and I don't think that normal insulation will do a good job using standard fiberglass or sprayed in insulation. (PLELASE Correct me if you know for a fact that I am wrong there!) So, in this video, the installer used vertically installed wooden slats, glued down and then stappled the radiant barrier to those slats (studs). 1. Would it not have been better to use those slats horizontally and applied to the outside of the vertical metal frame and thereby creating a bit larger gap between the Exterior Wall and the Interior Radiant Barrier? 2. Since I intend on cooling the shop (and maybe the whole barn) with an evaporative cooling system supplied with fresh air into the evaporative cooler and an exhaust fan on an opposite wall, would it help, hurt or have no effect to install fiberglass or sprayed in insulation in the gap between the outer wall and the radiant barrier? Thank you and may God richly bless you and yours.
The one thing I found out was cheaper hiring contractors was insulation and sheetrock install. They did the jobs cheaper than I could buy the raw materials for. Sometimes diy costs more than hiring.
Realize an old post but super helpful, it looks like my building is almost a carbon copy of yours. Can you share where you pbtaine3d your insulation and specs?
I noticed that your voice kinda echoes and it did sound a bit better afterwards. I'm just curious how you could go another step and deaden the sound more because I'm thinking of recording music in my garage when I'm not working? Thanks
Cheaper up front cost, but it will get brittle over the years and continually flake off. My neighbors shop roof was “insulated” with that crap, and the only thing it’s good for now is making a mess. 4x8 foam boards may be a better alternative. Tiger foam sells diy kits that go pretty far esp if you’re only trying to achieve a slight r value by shooting a thin layer.
Back in 1979 I bought a brand new van and sometime in January me and five friends decided to go to Harriman State Park and camp out overnight in this metal box well all I have to say is that without insulation a metal box can get so cold if the wind is blowing that you can freeze to death pretty quickly I remember pouring a glass of water and watching it freeze within 4 seconds so obviously it's not just heat that it comes amplified.
@patriotDIY I didnt catch it, why didn't you insulate over the studs? Too big of a gap? Aesthetics? I like the way you did it in this video but was curious as my project is going to start in a few months
I watched about 15 videos of how to insulate a metal building, each with a different method and different materials. And everyone thinks what they did is best. It’s hard for a diy guy like me to decide what to do… Thanks for posting.
What I did worked and is holding up well with 0 issues to date. The only thing I'd change is after putting up the wood strips with construction adhesive... I would also install some small L brackets holding to the stud for a "Just in case" scenario
Judge by the temperature difference in each case and apply that to what your expectations are. As he stated in this video, the R value is low, but it helps to block, or cut down the radiant heat from the sun heated metal.
How has the double sided take held up during the heat of summer? I know it's only been a few months but wondering if that's the best option long term. Thanks man! Great video!
I have a similar building, 2 car garage here in Fl. I haven't bothered insulating it because I just keep my truck and lawn equipment out there, I dont use it as a workshop or anything. I think you may have continual issues with moisture building up inside if you cover it with wood like you said, even with insulation. I would put some vents down by the floor, and up near the ceiling to allow for some air flow to keep moisture to a minimum.
I love steel pole construction but that the only thing is it's a giant oven in the summer and the condensation especially in the winter when using a heater
I like it a lot. Your engineering talent and work ethic reminds me of me…more than a few years ago. Question: I wonder if the expansion and contraction of the steel siding will cause the two sided tape to loosen? Do you think applying the glue to the edge of the 1x2 and attaching it to the post would be worth consideration, because the steel posts are substantial and would flex very, very little if any thereby eliminating movement by the 1x2? That would still leave a sufficient air gap between the siding and the insulation.
Ok, so here's my main question. On a previous video, you sealed up all the air gaps with expandable foam and silicone. So...why the need for the spacers? I mean, if there's no air flow behind the insulation, the condensation will just run down to the floor and sit there until it dries. My logic tells me it would be better to have the air flow BETWEEN the insulation and metal walls to keep condensation to a minimum. I'm not trying to be a smartass. Just asking a question as I am researching how I'm going to insulate my metal shop. Haven't decided yet, but I'm either going the same route you did or rigid foam board. I'm leaning to the rigid board, but I think my question is relevant in both regards. Thanks in advance!
So doesn’t moisture build up in the space between the metal and the insulation? Is there some sort of venting to let it dry, or do you tape that sucker solid so no air can pass?
I am skeptical about that insulation on the ceiling. Just so many people that have it installed have the double stick tape undo and it drops and looks very bad. My wife and I opted for spray foam. It doesn't look as pretty but it does the job and actually helps structurally as well. Seeing you are going to do some fishing touches inside and you used staples as well as the double-sided tape on the walls that looks pretty interesting. The double bubble does give a much cleaner look when it is done and if done right may not be a problem in the future. Very nice video.
thanks so much your instructions worked well. Building is finished - double bubble- in a 400 sq ft 12 foot high metal building. It took me about a week .. your instructions - and no help from anyone.
I have a 30x30x10. I was thinking of doing this and then coming back with rigid board over it. Will this be enough to heat and cool my building? I’m in central Mississippi. Great video!
NiceVideo. Two questions. First What size is your main building W. X D. X H. and second approx what did the insulation run you? Thank you in advance,. Stay Safe, Greg
