✅ Don't Forget to like👍 comment✍and subscribe▶ to my channel! ✅ Geek Street Travels, is another channel we have, showing our travels around the world 🌎✈👙🌴☀🌞🛄 check it out by clicking the link below: bit.ly/2Q2HDIA Don't Forget to like👍comment✍and subscribe▶ to that channel too!
Really useful and easy to follow. I have a broken outdoor armored cable that I was looking to repair with this joint, but had no idea how until I saw this tutorial.
Hello. It is probably better to use some crimping lugs for connection. In your case maybe better to leave those screw type lugs bare as the compound would then prevent the screws becoming loose acting as a locking mechanism. Cheers
That's the idea behind it, yep. And not sure if I heard it: This fluid is kind of dangerous when you breathe it in (especially since it takes some minutes), so take precautions. Usually, with those muffs, you get a hopper. That eases the handling a lot.
Hi mate, I know that this clip is 5 years old now but I just want add an advice that your joints should be spaced apart (not space vertically but horizontally), i.e, even if you dont insulate the cables from each other theres no way it would touch each other. Look at the instruction and you will see what Im talking about. Other than that you did everthing right.
Is the earth braid too long? Looks like it was touching the inside of the mould. Personally I wouldn't put insulation tape around the butt splices, better to let the resin get full access to the whole joint. We use a very similar system offshore, subsea, and we don't want any voids within the joint assembly, as this is a potential for water ingress. Also a good idea to do continuity and insulation test before you box up and pour the resin.
that earth connection is wrong you should fold it double in the coil spring and you should tape up the coil springs to make sure no resin gets between the armour and the earthing cable
Im a asistent cable jointer and have a experience of six years on 132kv, 220kv,400kv. i worked in qatar for six years. If you need asistent cable jointer then i would be much happy to work with you
Can I ask why are you doing this, is it for power in your garden, shed etc? I’m wanting a power point at the end of my garden, approx 50 meters and I got so confused on what cable, how to fit it etc, majority of the time it will be just used low power, led lights but I want the capability of powering power tools, I.e 2000, 3000 Watts. I can either surface place around the garden, or even dig down but I believe you then need different size cable due to heat ? Any advice greatly appreciated! Cheers
The reason this was done was because the shed at the back was moved and the existing amoured cable was too short so it needed to be extended. In your situation I would just put an outdoor socket of your house and get a long extension cable for when you need power at the back. Armoured cable is very expensive for your requirements a 2.5mm twin and earth should be sufficient, but best to consult an electrician.
Geek Street Thanks for the reply, that’s what I have been using but it’s used all year round so I have been looking for a more permanent solution. Cheers
Hi, you really should get an electrician, the longer the cable run the higher the voltage drop, to counteract this you need to use larger cable, all dependant on the maximum loading your likely to want, a twin socket could supply 26 amps, over loading the cable causes a heat increase, a mears calculator can be really useful when calculating cable sizes and voltage drop
Just like a lineman, all he needs is a hammer and tape,they do make tools to strip that insulation, and a wood ruler to make measurements, and knee pads,really great explanation, hope there is no apprentices watching he better be glad it's not pouring down rain and playing in the mud
You didn't need the earth braid, I've only ever known this to be done by using the armour as the earth and just pulling each strand away from the three phases, using the insulation tape to wrap around the armours to keep them together. Interesting to see a different way of doing it though.
@@davidedwards6352 The armour should be earthed throuout it's length. It's to earth any tool that mag go before toucing live. That's the whole principal. Must be earhted at the source with a proper gland, not disregarded.
My eyes are sore. Just score a line round the inner insulation and pull it off. Then you won’t damage the inner cores and don’t have to dodgy score the inner all the way along 🤦♂️
By the time the tape on the ends falls apart, the resin will have long since hardened - the tape is only there to prevent it leaking out before it's set. After that, it (and, arguably, even the plastic shell) is more or less redundant - the set resin is what provides the protection then.
