Just fitted the 22mm square edge worktops from Howden joinery, I found doing the jointing bolts first in the female side first, then heat gun off the edge, was easier, then offer up the male to check for square, use the trimming bit and jig, to square the edge makes a great joint, also sink cut outs and hob cut outs, butter the cuts with silicone to prevent water ingress into the veneered edge,
Thanks for tips. You should cut biscuits from the top though as that's the edge you want to be flat, just in case there is variation. I know there isn't usually much but i find the middle is a tiny bit thicker usually
Great video and one happy customer. New to joinery and usually do the male and female joints but t that is so much simpler if you can do it with the worktop you have. 👍🏻
Hi mate, can you send a link to the jointing kit that you used for this please? That’s a lovely job you did there! Where about are you from? Anywhere near the West Midlands?!
Thank you mate. I am based in Leicester. The sealant has to be bought together with the worktop as it needs to match in colour. For bisket and joint bolt you can buy in Screwfix or Amazon. Thank you your more than welcome to ask any questions you have.
You can adjust the cut to accommodate for the walls being off square. As you say, they normally are not, so you should expect to have to adjust for that. Been fitting kitchens for nearly 40 years.
At first, thank you for the video. I have a question. What happens if you don't take away the formica edge? The Formica lid and edges are supposed to be watertight. Isn't it better to join formica to formica with that "colorfill" adhesive and do the rest of the procedure as in the video?
Your welcome and thank you for your question. First the worktop does not come with the edging to the sides only the front facing edge. Second we have to remove it so the joint is wood to wood because the sealant is for this purpose. Third even if the edging was there it is a kind of plastic that does not respond well to sealant. And last but not least if you leave the edging on either side. When the worktop is joint then this will show on the top facing of the worktop. Our aim is for the joint to be as invisible as possible.
What do you use to cut the worktop you don't remove the edging strip from...........do you router a straight line for example? Excellent job by the way!!!
@@PassionforCarpentry is it also possible with a festool plungesaw or have you found the router just gives a better finish. Thankyou for your quick reply.
Can you use this method if your corner is not at 90 degree for example if you have 120 degree corner? can you fit the first piece and scribe the second and straight cut it?
My worktops were joined but a black plastic strip was put on the top of the worktops where they were joined and it just looks awful! It's the first thing I noticed when I walked in. What can be done about it please? It just stands out so much and has ruined the look of my new kitchen!!!
Hi, I am unsure how that has been done as I do not use that method. If you could email me a few photos, maybe I can point you in the right direction. Ejup@passion4carpentry.co.uk
@@chriscoulson7684 that's what I did do but it was still nerve racking and took ages. Used a combination square to set my straight edge and clamps but was still proper awkward and hard. I knew that even a quarter of a mill out would fuck it up. Plus the walls and units weren't dead on square.
@@flyingjackcarpentry9394 yeah I feel ya! You could also turn both worktops upside down, and clamp together. Then run your circular saw through the joint. It will cut them perfectly and won’t split the veneer
What's the advantage of this joint V's male/female joint using worktop jig? Going cutting countertop next week and was planning on going with male/female joint but not sure now 🤔
Hi, I find that this join works better and its barely visible once completed because the worktop is square. Either way is doable I just find this works for me.
Nice video, thank you 'PfC' I am fitting a Howden's kitchen with 22mm square edge worktops - 'the look' apparently. Wood grain though so it is not as uniform as your sparkle top! Did you just fit your 'biscuits' loose or were they glued in at some stage in the video? I missed it if so!
In that case you have to play with units and worktop to find the right fit, If the L IS over 90 degrees you leave both sides same gap or if it is less than 90 you have to plane the worktop both sides the same.
