Wow, really good demonstration. Wouldn't consider maybe showing differences in stropping particular manufacturers ? Like Helvie versus OCC, Drake etc. Thanks.
Another helpful and important video for the carver. A sharp tool is a safer tool. I like to elevate my strop at the end closest to me by a couple of inches as it keeps my hand that is holding the tool from striking the table. It is also better ergonomics for for my right arm.
This video is very helpful. I wonder at what point one adds more rouge to the strop, and at what point, if ever, does one scrape the built up rouge off the strop?
Another great video! I've been a subscriber for a few weeks and absolutely love your videos. I like the way you explain what you're doing and why. Your encouraging words are very comforting and motivating. And kudos to the person with the camera! Love those close up shots! Now for my problem: I've watched many 'sharpening/stropping' videos. I've tried every technique shown for sharpening/honing a beveled edge; lay the blade flat then tilt the back up to where the edge contacts the strop; I've placed my fingertips on the bevel to keep it in contact; I've tried light pressure, heavier pressure; I make sure I pick the blade straight up off the strop and not 'roll' it; etc. And still, the edge is more dull than it was before I started. I use (or WAS using) carving knives by Beavercraft. I've done a total of 4 beginner pieces and only completed those by using a cheap set of carving blades (interchangeable handle) bought at Harbor Freight. These do not work for deep cuts so it is very time-consuming but works....so far. I have considered buying a set of Flexcut knives but those are beveled as well. I've thought about OCC since their blade is flat, but I'm not confident that I wouldn't dull those too. Several RU-vidrs stated that it will take practice to get the sharpening technique 'down pat', so I've practiced with my general-use pocket knives, only to get the same result. This is very discouraging, as I think, "Why buy better quality knives for only 30 minutes use?" The ending of your video title says it all for me..."fighting your wood because of an un-sharp tool is no fun." I use the leather piece that came with the Beavercraft set. I glued it to a board the same width and applied the green sharpening compound. I've noticed some of my knife edges look rounded, if that tells you anything and can help identify what I'm doing wrong. Sorry this is so long. Thank you for your helpful videos. Maybe one day I'll have a knife sharp enough for long enough to follow along.
How do you feel about the sharpening stones. Some of these have grooves that can accommodate different gouges. You also mentioned machines that can sharpen, i have a dual grinding wheel but would not feel confident using on my fine knives. Thank you for your very informative teaching videos
Van as always great information . Just a note I cut a 45 deg. on one edge ,too take care of vee,&gouges . Btw what kind of leather do you find best ?👍😇🇺🇸
Hello, very interesting video. Could you please tell me what the Stropping Compound is called? Unfortunately I couldn't understand that in the video. Best regards Harald
Hi Van. I live in Australia near the ocean and am finding some corrosion pitting on some of my knives and gouges. When not in use I store them in a canvas roll to keep them out of the salt air. Can you suggest anything that I could do to protect them. I have been using very fine emery paper to remove the pits as soon as I see any. These aren’t cheap quality tools
I have used this method a fair amount lately. Your video helped me feel better about what I've been doing. Also do you Taylor your angles to fit your needs on gouges and vee tools? Several of mine were sharpened wrong by the previous owner I feel.
