HPFP maybe on TFSI EA113, where HPFP is driven by tappet. On EA888 it is driven by roller. Water pump housing should leak, but it can easily run over 200.000kms from factory. Everything is resolvable, but one big issue on this engine is balance shafts, and oil screens, which can lead to oil starvation. Perfect maintenance is mandatory on this cars!
I agree with everything saying, I got my mk6 at 64,000 miles at 125,000 I had intake manifold failure. So I'm doing intake manifold, water pump, injectors pcv valve, upper timing chains and intake valve cleaning. All oem vw parts. Great video keep em coming.
On manual cars, the oem clutch is pretty weak and can slipat stock power levels, it will definitely slip tuned. also the real main seal leaking can be a problem. oh as well as plastic throwout bearings can leak/break. Haha maybe we love these cars because everything goes bad giving us an excuse to upgrade!!
ppl say the same thing about the mk7, i was tuned for a few years and drove the car 20k+ miles without any slip on the stock clutch (albeit it was a low torque tune but still a good bump in power over stock). the RMS did begin to leak tho and the dealer covered it under warranty, and i had them change out the clutch while they were at it
I have 145k miles on my original OEM clutch and it doesn't slip. Still functions as new. I've heard this about the clutches in these cars quite a lot over the years, but I've also heard a lot of people claim that their stock clutch could handle up to stage 2 torque.
@@michaelw6277 my stock one is at 145k as well but it started slipping. Has to do with how hard you drive it i suppose, if your just cruising on the highway for a alotof miles, or stop and go and peeling out at every stoplight. Also, It probably can and will hold stage 2 power but most likely not for long.
I have a 2010; 140k miles. Clutch @85 k Water pump @85k Spark plugs and coils @85k Timing chain and tensioner @105k Valve cover leaking oil into spark plugs @ 105k PCV fail @110k Turbo leaking oil @115k Walnut blast and updated manifold @125k Spark plugs @135k Cylinder 3 injector stuck open (6 degrees outside) @135k Random water pump/hose leak @135k Oil pan resealed twice (dont use black RTV it's trash, go with ultra grey) Side seal resealed once, still leaking... Front wheel bearings gone at 135k Rear springs rusted and broke in the seat @130k. Redid all suspension to H&R on B4 struts. Only paid a shop for the clutch, water pump/coolant issues, timing chain, and pcv fail. Also cylinder 1 stud for the turbo was broken. Took me 3 days of drilling, extracting, welding to get it out, but it did come out.
In 2009 I bought a Mk5 thinking "this is the last year for this model, they should have sorted out all the issues by now". Little did I know that the engines follow their own time table and I had one of the new 2.0 TSI engines. The tensioner failed at 130 K miles....but I did my own head replace and now it's back on the road!
The diverter valve should also be updated(if it hasn't already) and I recommend looking into a dv+ from gofastbits. I'd pull out the sound deadening from the front fenders or at least remove the bottom portion. It gets soaked with water and will stay wet for a week. Removing the wheel well cover to do that will also give you a chance to clean that area thoroughly and then coat it with graphene or ceramic to prevent rust. I plan to have the car for a long time so I researched the hell out of everything. I enjoy working on it and love the car.
@@ogisaac4205 I would pull off the plastic wheel wells right before winter to treat with ceramic coating(I use the cheap kind) and thoroughly clean after winter. Doing this will give you a chance to catch anything before it develops.
I owned a 2012 manual GTI from 30k-104k miles. Had a window motor go out, the headliner came loose, and I think there was a recall on the coil packs. Only sold it because I wanted a DSG. Overall, it was a great car. Just change the oil every 4-5k and keep up with transmission fluid. Let them warm up before going hard. It did burn oil.
Bought my MK6 in late 2019, about a year and a half into owning it, started noticing oil spots wherever I went. Turns out the rear main seal had blown out, bc of the PCV. $1500, mostly due to labor to drop the tranny. Glad I got it done, but for those if you who own/want to own a MK6, use this as a cautionary tale. Love my car, and for the most part hasn't given any other problems (had to replace the water pump about a year ago)
Timing chains, yes, big problem on MKVI GTI’s. BUT I think the 2 biggest problems are the extended engine oil drain intervals, people not checking their oil level, and people not using VW Spec oil. It’s not just VW’s that consume oil, my Acura does too. Most cars do. You have to check and top off the oil in these cars, like you said, weekly! Once your oil level light comes on, it’s too late. It’s already shortened the lifespan of your GTI engine. It’s not good for your engine to be running with correct oil level and then low and then correct and then low, etc etc. Love your videos man. I own a MKII Tiguan SE 2.0T R-line Black Edition and have had an MKV GTI DSG and MKVI Jetta GLI 6MT. I see you’re from Massachusetts, I grew up in Brookline, MA, right outside Boston. Bought all my VW’s from Quirk VW.
Me watching this video while sitting in my 2010 corolla with 210,000 miles on it having no issues at all still running strong, just needed regular oil changes, brakes, tires never even looked under the hood. Great video though ,missing my old Passat with alot of issues in everything but they runs great when they run.
That's the thing that I don't want spend all my time repairing the dam,thing. I want to enjoy it. Japan motors can take a licking and keep on ticking but at the end I still want a gti go figure
Yaaaawn...... do you you have to dip your toast in milk just so you can chew it as well ? What Japanese PERFORMANCE ALL SEASON DAILY DRIVER do you guys have in mind? Subaru ring lands crack(yes the pistons) and have MAJOR engine problems. GTIs do it all pretty well. Toyota Corolla may get you there, but you will be BORED out of your mind.
PCV, canister purge valve, water pump, intake manifold, HPFP, fuel injectors, carbon cleaning, LPFP, clutch, turbo failure, waste gate actuator, throttle body, MAP sensor, diverter valve were fixed/replaced and I'm at around 69k miles. Holy shit... This car has so much issues looking at all the things I had to fix lol
I had a 2012 MK6 GTI that I bought used. Just about every issue a GTI could have, that car had. The engine straight up blew up on me. It really turned me off from VW, but I'm starting to think that it was just a terrible previous owner and I just got really unlucky. Might get a MK7 in the near future.
My Mk6 has timing belt, CDL engine , (edition 35) have replaced PCV valve after it failed at 60,000miles . Also aircon compressor was very noisy so this was was replaced under warranty, new unit is just as noisy. Also charcoal canister was replaced
Hi mate - I’m a new owner of the ed 35. In terms of the timing belt, when would you say that needs changing / replacing and I’m presuming a water pump should also be replaced in the process?
I have 145k miles on mine and I wouldn't say that it's been more or less reliable than anything else I've owned. Yeah it's needed some repairs, but nothing beyond what I would expect of literally any car with nearly 150k miles on it. Something important to note is that the timing chain wearing out is not a problem that's unique to this engine. Even Honda's K series engines need new timing chains at roughly the same frequency as the TSI.
Just bought a 2021 Golf GTI SE in April. Very fast and fun to drive. Hopefully VW has solved its leaky sunroof problems.....they've only been in business since 1937.
Yes. Just had my 14' checked when doing DSG and oil service. I have 115k miles. Mechanic said it was good. I've been doing 5k mile oil changes since I put 30k miles on it. This is highly recommended for longevity.
My 2010 GTI has 210k miles on the original motor and just replaced the DSG transmission with a 60k donor. I’ve replaced every single item mentioned on this channel as a preventive measure so he’s absolutely right. Even applied the waste gate clip for rattle issues.
@@lmaccountus7954 intake manifold? idk camshafts yes if u tuning that alot risk* water pump too but not that alarming* these thing is common right? every car has sick problem like bmw always leaking but not really alarming* the best i drived is bmw 520d f10 and 530i e60 monster engine can't dying* LUL
@@bm_wuratli6883 is almost like beating on a dead horse, FCP Euro, Eurotrash, Naptowntuner, humble mechanic covers all those issues. VW revised balance shafts, piston rings and pistons, water pump, cam bridge, rear main seal, timing chain and tensioner, just to name a few. After 110k it will break.
Still driving mine! Owned since 129k to 208k km currently. Had my fair share of fixes but it's been reliable after the fixes. (replaced balance shaft and timing chain around 180k km. Original turbo was still great with no play.) Stratified tuned since 135k km with minimal problems.
I believe that my GTI is one of the most reliable cars I've even owned. Car has a downpipe, intake, self tuned, 1.3bar couple ignition degrees and pops and bangs. Not the strongest stage 2 but good enough for our shitty roads (Egypt) I've had a bad timing tensioner and got it replaced like 3 years ago and haven't had a single issue since (Except for a loose ground cable :D) Considering a big turbo build however not sure if I should buy a secondary car first maybe an R32
I’m upgrading from a 07 mk5 (rip) to a 12 MK6 Autobahn with 4K more miles than my mk5 at 127k for $9k. There are great service records all the way back and the major services have been done. I’m still a bit worried about the chain. It has an APR II tune and some other bolt ons/3” catless dp. So exited! I’m going to baby it until I do all of the maintenance again. 😂😂 Subscribed!
I have a 2013 MK6, 2 door, stick. I've watched more MK6 videos than I can count. I've never heard anyone say the MK6 is the most unreliable GTI. Not sure where you're getting that. I'm on 90k now and it's running great. More reliable than my MK4 but not by much. I think a GTI is a reliable car overall. Just change the oil, use good gas, fuel cleaner and don't beat on the engine. Alway buy one with a manual and always get the cloth seats.
You just haven’t been around many Volkswagen owners then. My mk4 gti has been super reliable and now sits at 84k. My other friends mk4 gti with just now 95k has had hella issues left and right. I’d blame the previous owner and possibly the current one too. However, my other friend with a mk6 gti, has been the worst. He drives this like an old lady, does maintenance or repairs immediately, and that thing just stays on the brink of catastrophic failure. I’ve talked to many other mk6 and mk4 owners and my general consensus is that mk4 has the better engine by far while the mk6 has a lot less issues with interior and electrical bs. Mk6 was my dream but my mk4 has treated me the best and with the insane potential of that 1.8, I’m glad I got the one that is legitimately faster than the kids with their “Cobb stage 2” tuned hatchback assortment.
@@chumlee3325 The 1.8t is a fun drive. I really loved my MK4. Actually cried when I sold it. It didn't give me any problems and drove like a new car the entire time I owned it. Much like the MK6 I'm driving now. Don't think I'll ever sell it. It was a great looking car when they first released it and I think it will age very well.
Some things (except the DSG) are quite applicable to B8 A4s as they have a similar motor (EA888) good motors but requires a ton of attention if not taken care well.
My MK5 just got front ended. I bought it back, and avoided a salvaged title (no frame damage). I’m going to miss it while I rebuild it. In the meantime I’m hopping up to a 12 mk6 autobahn w/290hp 😅tomorrow. Can’t wait. (Mk5 for life)
@@DTCGhostYt yes I still own it 3 years later! My biggest maintenance I’ve done is replacing the timing chain around 100k and have been pretty fine ever since. Stage 2 FBO and still a great daily and every time I drive it I’m reminded of how fun it is. At 125k miles now and things have still been pretty smooth. I’d definitely recommend grabbing one if you can afford it. I honestly have little to no complaints.
2011 a3 Quattro owner. Same engine. I would only add a valve cover oil leaking that might deteriorate your gaskets including the water pump and cause it to leak. Also, rear main seal issues are common when PCV is not replaced proactively. Thanks for the video!
getting a mk6 next week and im scared as hell. it was my dream car since forever! just hoping it all goes well it her 65 miles on her and 12 month warranty any tips other than the ones you just mentioned? thanks
My dad did an engine overhaul 2 years ago and the DSG overhaul roughly a year ago. But ever since those major overhauls, the EPC and check engine light kept popping up, the water pump cracked, the ECU shorted out and there were a few times the car actually died as we drove above 12mph. Is there an explanation to this? Not sure if the mechanics ripped us off or didn't know what they were doing but I hope this isn't the end for the car.
My 2010 a3 (fwd, dsg) is at 170,880 miles Second timing chain changed at 130k (previous owner did that) Carbon cleaning done 30k ago Dsg service 800 miles ago Oil change every 5-8k miles Runs great werid electric problem with the radio turning off when I brake sometimes but other then that running great!
Second timing chain ?? My previous car was an A3 2011 and I was at 252 000km before selling it and it had the original timing chain with so weird noise, only thing I had to change was the intake manifold and the water pump at about 249 000km , pretty reliable when you take care of it and don’t push it too hard to often ! , unlike the previous owner of my new car, it’s an A4 2012 with 168 000km and I juste changed the timing chain.. unfortunate
7 months into ownership of my mk6, i have already done: coil packs/plugs, timing chain, water pump, pcv valve, p2015 manifold failure (VW replaced my intake for free), carbon cleaning and i have a drive belt/ tensioner as ik the drive belt tensioner can be weak. i thought at one point i had an issue with my LPFP but it ended up being my water pump, but the LPFP tends to go too
I don't mean to trash your favorite oil brand, but liquid moly is a below average performer. Amsoil makes a vw spec euro 5w-40 that will easily last to 5k and I'd recommend you looking into it.
Would like to mention, not ALL mk6 have the non updated tensioner. Only the ones from 2012 and before. My 13 gti had the upgraded redesigned one when I bought it.
2013 VW GTI Wolfsburg Edition at Stage 2 with a little over 115,000+ miles. For the carbon cleaning, you'll know when because it sounds as if the engine is choking to death. Lots of misfiring and very rough idling. Had to do a clean-up last year along with my PCV replacement and diverter valve going bad. Also the timing chain tensioner could be a 2008-2012 issue. From what I've gathered, Audi/VW upgraded it 2013 and beyond.
Just keep up with maintenance is really the bottom line. Do walnut blasting on your valves, so the timing chain, change your oil and all your filters, service your transmission, and a lot more. Your timing chain you should change every 50k miles in all honesty but if you modify it you need to do it more often because you’ll make more power and stretch the chain quicker. Oil changes I’d recommend every 5k miles but when you modify it, especially with a bigger turbo, drop it down a thousand or so. Your transmission it really depends. If you’re running a dsg you can get away with 40-50k miles unless if you modify it then you need to do it sooner. For a manual you need to assess the way you drive. If you do a lot of city driving or are on the throttle a lot you need to service it every 20-30k miles. Your clutch in your manual will eventually go out but that also depends on how you drive it. My original clutch latest 140k miles before it started to slip. A more aggressive clutch will require you to swap it out quicker. There are solutions for the carbon build up on the valves. One is walnut blasting which if not done right can absolutely kill your engine. That really only happens if the guy doing it accidentally sprays into the cylinder through an open valve. What I like to do is run an aux fuel system. I can make 600hp without running out of fueling now and it’s injected before the valves so it cleans them. Something not talked about is the water pump. It’ll fail and it’ll be a pain to replace. Mine died at 145k miles and I replaced it with a metal one. The water pump typically fails due to it cracking and not due to the actual pump breaking so a metal one is a go to fix. If you replace the intake manifold go with an aftermarket one. Even if you don’t want to modify your car it’s a way better option since it’s metal and most of them don’t have flaps in them. If you go with a bigger turbo get one that can fit in the oem spot ie one in a k03 or k04 housing that way all the oil lines hook up to it and your ecu can read it. Also if you want to make more than 400 horsepower you need more fueling ie aux fuel kits or wmi, you’ll also need something bigger than a k04 like a gt3071r. If you want to go above 450 horsepower you need to do rods, rod bearings and probably pistons. When you make more power you also want to step down to a thinner oil something like 5w-30 would work but you don’t necessarily need to do that since liqui moly makes good anti friction additives for their oil. The fly wheel will go out. Sometimes it warns you sometimes it doesn’t. This is an issue with both the dsg and manual transmission. The flywheel is a dual mass flywheel and it’s used because there is inherently a lot of vibrations and sharp impulses in an inline 4 engine along with the weak synchros that vw loves to put into their transmission. The two masses move relative to each other to take up slack and reduce vibrations making your weak synchros not die. Your flywheel can fail in a a couple different ways. First the springs could give out allowing the secondary mass to rotate freely to its max angles and this will sound like a helicopter is taking off under your car. When it does this it’ll slam into your transmission housing and you’ll have a bad time. Second the flywheel springs won’t fail but the clearances between the masses can shrink during hard uses causing them to bind together. This won’t make a noise however it’ll slowly destroy your synchros causing bits of synchro to destroy your transmission. Eventually you’ll transmission will lock up and you’ll need to replace it. An indicator for this is a slow but growing whine of your transmission. At this point you should either rebuilt your transmission or replace it because damage has already occurred and it’ll worsen on its own. The flywheel in this instance will hit your transmission housing although not as much as it would if the springs were the thing that killed it. NEVER REPLACE YOUR DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL WITH A SINGLE MASS FLYWHEEL UNLESS IF YOUR STRENGTHEN THE INTERNALS OF YOUR TRANSMISSION!!! The engines produced by vw have clearances between the cylinder and piston rings. These are there to allow oil between the piston rings and cylinder wall which lowers friction aiding in higher gas mileage and lower emissions. As your car ages these clearances will get bigger as the piston rings wear which means you burn more oil. Check your oil every time you put gas in your car. The lower the friction you can get with your oil the better for maintaining these clearances small. That being said use oils certified by vw. I recommend liqui moly. My car has only ever seen liqui moly after the first oil change and the condition of the engine based off of data taken while it was running and doing pulls is equivalent to one with 40-50k miles on it and mine has three times the miles. There is so much more for keeping your car running good but this is the major things. You do these and you’re not going to run into many major issues over the life of the car.
I feel like people give our Mk6s a bad rap sometimes; I got mine at 150k miles and I'm over 215k miles now. I do both city and highway commuting, as well as daily driving and also leaving it to sit for weeks. I've had a good chunk of the common problems that cars with high mileage have (brake rotors, wheel bearings, serpentine belt, coolant reservoir stuff, electronics here and there, etc.), but the only real "catastrophic" things that've gone bad were my starter and water pump (separate events) both at around 200k miles. I definitely have not kept the car in amazing shape since I'm a broke, busy college student. For example, there have been a few times where I've run the engine ~10k+ miles without an oil change, I've driven a little while the temp gauge was past max, I race the car, I live in the NE so the winter salt definitely doesn't help the car when i don't wash the car for over a year, etc. All this and the car still runs smooth as can be and, fingers crossed, will continue to last me for a bit longer. In addition, I did the typical GTI Stage 2 engine mods (diverter valve, intake, full exhaust, tune, etc.) relatively early in my time of owning it and even with more boost and more things to go wrong, it's still kicking.
Carbon build up depends how you drive. If you don't do any highway driving and you aren't driving at 3k rpm for long periods of time you probably will need to clean it every 25,000. I just did mine and once you get used to it it is easy. I replaced the old manifold with what turned out to be a brand new defective manifold so I was fortunate to have to pull the intake off 3 times in as many weeks. It took that long to chase down the error code. You just don't think a new part will be the culprit.
@@ramirocosta1 Walnut shells from harbor freight with a media blaster and pancake compressor. You just need to be careful to cover all holes with tape and use a vacuum while blasting. I used a cover with a hole(made specifically for this) for the blaster to aid in the process, you can buy them from amazon. There are a bunch of videos to do it, I watched them all to prepare myself.
At some point there was a class action lawsuit against VW for the timing chain tensioner, and if you signed on you could get the issue fixed/a new engine practically for free. Idk if it's still something that people could use, but worth looking into if you're a mk6 owner who hasn't replaced that part.
Better then subaru where you’ll end up with a blown motor or ford with a blown motor and tranny. Or you’ll get a honda which wont be nearly as fast and not have any mod support same w toyota
Absolutely love your videos as always! I wanted to add an additional note as it’s a problem that is starting to surface more on the Mk6’s. There’s a mystery code “P2568” that shows when the thermostat starts to go bad. I literally got this code after bragging about being on my original waterpump during a Vlog. Go figure. 😂 Anyway sometimes shops get it confused with a sensor on the radiator…So they try to replace the radiator when the issue is the waterpump. 😬
Recommend adding catch can if you want to slow down carbon build up. Since it spits all the crap from the pcv back into the engine carbon builds up quite quick
MK6 Owner and my HPFP went out on me replaced under warranty, my intake replaced under warranty, my water pump replaced under warranty. I’m at 79000 miles and everything good! I use Liqui Moly 5w-40 full synthetic every 5000 miles and I replace spark plugs and coils every 2 years regard less! I change fuel filter every 10000 miles and my PCV just got replaced!! I had my valves cleaned at 50000 miles! 😊
First of all, "crankcrase" did you wrap that intake yourself? Everything fails on the Mk6, right? Even tires go flat by hungry gofers. All your comments are 3rd party conjecture. One does not do a DSG fluid change by himself; it should be flushed, but then we wouldn't have money to buy stickers. "The fuel filter is back there somewhere." WTF? It's good that you're paying someone to actually wrench on your car. You embarrass yourself and insult the GTI community!
I don’t pay anyone to wrench on my car and my car is running happily and healthily frankly I don’t give a shit what you think about the things I’ve done with the product I’ve purchased
Moral to the story. Replaced half of the cars engine components. I gave a wrx and it's no different. Everything on production cars suck from factory to cut costs.
I’ve basically had zero issues over 140k miles in my Mk6 TDI. The one that’s popping up now is the Dual Mass Flywheel chatter. I think the diesel is harder on them because it’s more vibratey and I launch hard too. With a SMF the diesel is too harsh on the synchronizers and causes even bigger issues, so just got to replace DMFs every so often I suppose but not too often so it’s whatever. I’m hoping for 600k miles before any major issues.
Not a GTI but I have an MK7 2016 1.8 TSI that has 176K on it and after having the turbo replaced at 135K it burns 1 quart of 5W40 every 1000 miles. I've done the carbon cleaning and PCV valve serviced with no change in consumption. Thinking my pistons may need to be replaced? With that I know they will be replacing my timing chain and any other thing on the motor as it has to be pulled out for the service.
Bought my 12MK6 GTI back in february 2023 at 129k miles. Im at 149k now and I've spent around 4k in maintenance and repairs. I love the car and im about to spend another 3k on the timing chain. It has some super small leaks that ill have to take care of soon too. I wouldnt trade it for anything. The MK5 was fun and Its a great car, but it cant compare with the stage2 apr tune on the mk6.
that 1.8T is pretty bulletproof. I overhauled one that had about 236k on it and had one service record in the glove box. Changed the oil, replaced the leaking pcv and broken dipstick, and replaced the downpipe because it was rusted through. Ran fine after that
