The first two steps don't completely eliminate mites, but they get rid of the majority of the population. That helps the sulfur become more effective, because it's easier to destroy a smaller population. It's good to eliminate as many mites as possible manually first.
Great to know about sulfur. If you hose the spider mites in your garden from a potted plant, won’t the displaced mites end up on other trees/plants? Anyway just found out Bonide has a premixed spray of sulfur and pyrethrum cocktail, which should make it easier for houseplants. I used sulfur dust a while ago to prevent fungus. It tends to clog the spray bottle. Anyway, great that something with low toxicity is effective. In dry, hot apartments in the winter mites are the most common pest. I read some can develop resistance to pyrethrins.
This is great information and thoroughly presented. I appreciate that you share so much info with your viewers. Its nice to feel that we can trust the information. Thank You!
What do you with baby plants with sensitive leaves Such jet setting will damage baby leaves My scarlet runner bean leaves dry out Also isnt dish soap harsh? How much do we put?
Our local nursery sells Sulphur pellets, similar to split peas, to use in a spreader and put on lawn. It keeps ticks away, doesn't hurt pets and is good for the soil.
Great video as usual. Thanks so much. Question: how do you prevent spider mites in the first place? Would regular neem oil spray applied biweekly help?
The best way to prevent spider mites is to keep your plants outdoors. Spider mites are at the bottom of the food chain, and they flourish indoors where predatory insects can't reach them. If you keep plants indoors, it's only a matter of time until a spider mite finds its way over to the plant. I do not use neem oil, because I do not believe it does anything beneficial beyond any suffocating vegetable oil spray. I used it for years, and all it would do to my plants is burn the leaves. I would rather periodically spray with wettable sulfur, because it is both an effective miticide and fungicide.
@@TheMillennialGardener I know this comment was posted a year ago and you might have read about this already, but neem oil actually contains a toxin that kills insects that feed on the leaves. neem oil+soap can also be used as a soil drench so the roots can absorb this toxin, which then functions as a systemic. The concentration of the toxin in the system is built up over time and is very effective. A botanist friend of mine taught me this, but I’ve also read research on this online where the systemic effect of neem oil and the efficacy of the toxin against spider mites was measured and documented. All this to say - neem oil is not the same as other vegetable oils
Spider mites find their way to all of my cucurbits. If I'm not vigilant with the soap and neem oil they quickly destroy my plants. I'm going to try the sulfur next year! Thanks for this video!
I've never had much luck with neem oil. The sulfur will definitely provide better protection since it is a true pesticide. You can source it organically, too. Just *do not* mix sulfur with any type of oil or it will burn. It must be mixed with water only.
Super helpful!! Do you happen to know if I could use this on a plant called "snow on the mountain"/ bishops weed/ Ageopodium podograria? Seem to find myself with spider mites making a run through my house.
@@TheMillennialGardener plus you don’t have to water all the time. Water is expensive and time consuming living in this sand, rock and heat and having as many trees and garden as I have. I had micro sprinklers and they’re a pain. Below ground the gophers eat it and above ground you can’t brush hog mow over the hose. The sprinklers need constant adjusting and cleaning from insects plugging them up. I think I’m around 300 trees and I’m talking pecans mostly. They require a lot of water. TAMU says a mature pecan can use 500 gallons of water a day during the summer to set a heavy and filled nut crop. That’s a lot of water.
@@TheMillennialGardener Alaska’s state bird is the mosquito 🦟 I think they have more than anyone I’ve seen. You’d think the cold would kill them. They get so thick at times they look like smoke. I’ve seen this from RU-vid vids and my dads neighbor went every year as a hunting guide cook.
The upside-down soak idea is brilliant! I have many houseplants that I wash in the shower, with a garden hose, or leaf by leaf with a soapy cloth, but I find that this is not enough when I'm dealing with a serious pest infestation because, as you know, one misses one or two creepy crawlers, and BAM! They come back with a vengeance. That fear, in turn, makes me go crazy with the amount of miticide that I feel I have to apply to get the all, and then I worry of the pesticides that might be lingering inside my home! I watched your video earlier in the day, and upon returning from work, I fashioned a "dunking station" so I can treat my Calatheas and Alocasias at the same time. I gathered three 5-gallon buckets, spaced them out "just right" so I can place one of their lids in the center and use it the way you used the paint stirrers, wrapped the plants in aluminum foil and a trash bag (for extra insurance) and currently have 7 plants hanging upside down, getting thoroughly clean. Thank you so much for sharing this clever technique!
Wettable sulfur comes with a very specific listing of plants it is safe to use within the instructions. The concentrations vary based on the type of plant, so it's very important to read the instructions. The concentration for, say, tomatoes, is different than roses, for example.
Thanks for the tips! I myself use beneficial bugs, for spidermites spical (N californicus) and for thrips swirski. Have a bunch of Alocasia’s, they always had spider mites. But not anymore. And the good thing is they reproduce themselves.
@@TheMillennialGardener i’m growing indoors only in pots, maybe that makes a lot of difference. I didn’t refresh my mites for months now, I’m testing my herd, a few new Plants have spider mite, as my control group. The ones that ‘had’ mites earlier, don’t get touched. And Alocasia’s normally always have spider mites 😉.
All good advice, but would the cheapest option not be to give these small trees a good spray with regular fly spray like "Doom" for instance. I stay in SouthAfrica and that one is our household pest spray. It will not affect the eventual fruits of the tree which is only to bear in 2-3 yrs time...
Lots of great info here, though I would note that pyrethrins are highly toxic to bees. Some other pesticides are worse for bees, but pyrethrins are still not great. Also, can cause reproductive issues in fish and some aquatic insects. Another option instead of pesticides are too use good bugs like ladybugs, lacewings, and praying mantis.
Pyrethrin is toxic to almost all insects. It's very simple to avoid killing bees with pyrethrin. Bees are diurnal and leave the area at sunset, so all you have to do to avoid killing bees is to spray at dusk once the bees vacate the area. Pyrethrin degrades rapidly, so by the time morning breaks, the toxins are no longer active. Spraying in a raised bed garden has no consequences to any aquatic life as pyrethrin becomes inert in hours. I do not believe in using carnivorous insects. I don't find them effective at all. It is in the best interest of carnivorous insects to not wipe out their food source. If carnivorous insects ever wiped out their food source, they'd leave the area and the pests would just take over again. If the carnivores are thriving, it is because the pests are outnumbering them, which is exactly what you don't want. Trying to maintain the carnivorous insects means you have to maintain the pest population to keep them fed.
@The Millennial Gardener Thanks for the really detailed response, I appreciate it. While you explain well that pyrethin can be used responsibly, it can (and is) very easily used irresponsibly by those who think that since it's 'natural', it's therefore without issue. While I get that it's better than many other pesticide options, it also needs to be promoted more responsibly in my opinion. As for water runoff, you and I may not have yards or landscaping that runs into waterways directly, but there are plenty who do and it's important for them to know not to use this pesticide in that manner. Pesticides are used so broadly and even many of those those seeking environmentally-friendly solutions think we all have to use pesticides regularly because that's been the marketing. Rather, they should be used conservatively and conscientiously, if ever. In terms of predator bugs, yes -- predator bugs won't necessarily wipe out all pests and they can also migrate. But wiping out all bugs (aside from these truly noxious spider mites and the fire ants that plague my yard) shouldn't really be a goal. When allowed to, predator bugs help control pest insects. Overuse of pesticides in yards or neighborhoods can wipe out predator bugs that exist naturally, so sometimes reintroduction may be necessary.
@@TheMillennialGardener i actually had great success with first rinsing and later bigger mites eating the spider mites. As a biologist: in nature would be another species preying on the bigger ones which ist not the case indoors and you hardly ever wipe out 100% with toxins either. I dislike the use of Pesticides, especially on my balcony. There are so many Important and great nocturnal insects, too, which are killed in the process. It’s not just bees that are important..
My Cousin said the Cloves will work. I haven't tried it yet though. He said to put 4 or 5 in some Water, let it sit, then spray. I haven't looked it up on yt yet either.
For times when you catch the problem early, I wanted to share an idea I started trying recently with my latest infestation. Get something sticky, I use a fly trap, and just brush it over the affected leaves. I picked up a whole mess of the fuckers this way
The issue with spider mites is the reproduction cycle is very fast. You can remove the entire adult population, but chances are, there are eggs left behind. The reproduction cycle will repeat itself, and you'll have another infestation. This is why I recommend blasting off the plants (and soaking if possible) to remove as many adult pests and eggs as possible, then treating with sulfur on a schedule. You need to break the reproduction cycle by killing the adults, treating again in case some left behind eggs hatch, then kill those adults so they can't lay more eggs. It'll take around 2-3 treatment cycles over a few weeks to really get them all for sure.
What about outdoor burning bushes planted in the landscape bed? How do u properly treat? Insecticides just kill the adults and it just keeps coming back! Thanks!
It's just too simple. Things like blowing bugs off with a hose just doesn't seem like it works, but it does. It won't remove the entire infestation, but it gets rid of so many of them that it makes pesticides so much more effective.
My eggplant has something white on the underside of the leaves. Its not moldy. The tomatoes have teeny tiny reddish brown things which I believe are spider mites. I used Diatomaceous dirt. I dusted tgen grabbed some in the palm if my hand and pressed the underside of the leg in my palm.
My figs love my sandy soil. They will grow a lot faster in sandier soil because it's easier for the roots to grow, but you need to feed them more. They require more compost, mulch and fertilizer since sandy soil is less nutritious. I give them 2 bags of compost in the beginning of the year and fertilize heavily.
I used this method to rid my pepper plants from aphids. Took the plants with the most problems and put them upside down foe a couple of minutes in soapy water then rinsed them. The others, I went over leaf by leaf amd lifted individual aphid nymphs off with clear tape.
I recommend: 1. Blowing it off very hard with the hose to get as many mites off as possible. 2. Spraying the wettable sulfur. Follow up with another treatment after 7 days, and then in another 7 days. 3 treatments should really destroy the population and prevent the reproductive cycle.
For everyone wondering what this video is about without having to waste time: Make soapy water, dunk plant in water for 6 hours, spray off, dust, done.
Nice video, will this work on regular house plants like a hoya. Also, you didn't mention how to treat the soil in case there are mites or eggs there. I wonder if I can just dunk the entire plant including soil for a couple hours. ughhh just found some this morning
This will work on any plant that can be safely turned over and dunked. If you cannot dunk the plant, you can still use the wettable sulfur spray. The top of the soil can also be sprayed with wettable sulfur. However, you have to treat more than once to "break the cycle" of reproduction. Spraying the plant will kill the adults, but may not kill all the eggs in the soil. Therefore, you must follow up with another treatment in 7 days or so to kill any future larvae that hatches, but aren't mature enough to lay another set of eggs. It may take 2 follow-up treatments to break the cycle.
@@TheMillennialGardener Okay, I can definitely dunk my Hoya. It’s in a 3” nursery pot. I’ve never heard of the sulfur spray, I may have to check that out. I know my Lowe’s sells captain jacks so I may get that today. Thank you for your video and help!
Hey :-) thank you so much for the video, very nice tips..I really appreciate it! I just have two questions: 1) on more sensitive ornamental plants, do i have to wash the solution after leaving it for a while? 2) after dissolving the sulfur in water, can I keep the mixture or do I have to discard it? Thank you so much in advance!
No, you will not need to wash the solution off. It's a natural compound, so it'll break down on its own. Just make sure to carefully read the instructions, because the concentrations vary widely for different plants. If you use the wrong concentration, you will burn your plant. It's better to be conservative with the concentrations, so read the label carefully. I do not know how long the sulfur will last in the water before its potency degrades. Generally, these natural and organic sprays can last several weeks *if stored in a cool, dry, dark place.* It's usually light and oxygen that causes rapid decay. However, it may lose potency over time, so it's best not to keep it too long.
That’s a great video but if you’ll put a half cup of hydrogen peroxide and a tablespoon of tea tree oil into the big container you have the mites will explode on contact of this mix. I use a spray bottle also with a smaller amount of these ingredients
I added a half a cup of hydrogen peroxide, a tablespoon of tea tree oil, a teaspoon of pepperment oil, a teaspoon of neem and water and am dunking them for 4 hours, i hope it works
PS, QUESTION: How does *submerging* (or even coating spraying) my Leafy, alive Plant ... in a soap, etc solution. --How does this not harm the Leaves, and the plant?? Will appreciate an answer, as this is the main thing in the back of my mind, with doing all this. Just Wondering.. How+why this won't hurt Leaves, and a Plant. ~Thanks =]
The main thing with soap is to smother the insects. After the soap bath you can spray the soap off with the hose. Just don't put the plant in full sun for a day or so
Is it like a web? Or a hard, crusted over egg sack? Usually, when I see egg sacks underneath a single leaf, I just pull the entire leaf off and dispose of it. Spraying the plant afterwards once the sun goes down is usually a good idea.
There is another pest i get on my citrus (I live in the north) its called scale. Its a little bug that will hunker down and suck the plants dry but they look like a fish scale stuck to your plants. The immature ones are soft the adult ones are hard.
Good info, around here I usually end up with aphid problems. And mostly on my Aronia bushes. I physically squish them.....then spray off any lackies I missed. It's always something you know....Oy.
Are the bushes outside? I find aphid infestations can happen early in the year, but that's because they hatch before larger, predatory insects. Once the dragonflies, lady bugs and other larger insects come to life and it gets hot, I don't seem to see aphids anymore.
@@TheMillennialGardener 1 Aronia is in ground outside, the other in pot, but also outside during the warm weather. We usually have an abundance of dragon flies with the pond out front. And lady bugs love to eat Aphids. I see them on my grapes as well. Lots of little bunches starting this year. (year 2) Have to see if they are a problem this year...so far no sign.
I've had a problem with my citrus new growth leafs but I found out just by being out in my garden what was causing it....BUTTERFLIES LAYING EGGS ON THE LEAFS. I WATCHED ONE BUTTERFLY LAY MANY EGGS..ONE PER LEAF ON ALL MY CITRUS PLANTS AND I HAVE MANY. AFTER WSTCHING I WAITED AND SURE ENOUGH THE NEXT DAY ALL THE LEAFS WERE CURLED AND A WHITE FINE WEB ON THEM. I LOVE MY BUTTERFLIES BUT NOW WHAT? I don't want to kill them any ideas?
Water, Castile soaps tea tree (without hemp) & peppermint, plus hydrogen peroxide. Ref: LiquiDirt video on spraying houseplants before bringing them in for winter. Easy to mix and works great.
I found that spidermites were living and hiding on my house in 2 areas. After power washing the area last spring they have not returned. Also as a preventative... spider mites hate garlic. In a third area, I had planted garlic here and there in and around my raised bed and they have not returned. I am wondering if garlic juice could send them away too...hmmmm...
Garlic is a good natural pest deterrent. I specifically plant my garlic in rows with 2 foot spacing to plant my tomatoes in between the rows. It does appear to help keep bugs away in general.
I’ve added vinegar to the sudsy water when submerging the above ground parts of small plants. This seems to work better than dish detergent alone in controlling spider mites.
Thanks je suis français et nous dit jamais que le souffre s'associe au huile une chose que je ne savais pas et cette technique a laisser les plantes dans l'eau savonneuse pourquoi j'ai pas penser avant supert technique.... petite question est-ce possible de le faire sur des arbre fruitier ?
Moi francophone du Québec, vous savez de quel soufre il est question? Je sais qu’il ont mentionné wetable sulfur mais en jardinerie on nomme ça comment ? Merci d’avance
Excellent and Diligent Mite Treatment.Will other plants in the vicinity be infested as well? The mites came from? Pyrethrins have excellent Knock down agreed.I cannot use because of sharing life with 2 Cats.Even a very small amount of Pyrethrin is toxic to Cats!! Apparently ok with Dogs about. Peace from MN
Pyrethrin isn’t effective against spider mites, so I have heard. I had all my citrus clustered together during the cold to keep it all warm against the house, and I had mites on my Meyer Lemon in ground. I hosed that bush off with my jet and sprayed it down with the other half of the bottle of sulfur and it has been clean ever since.
I tried also another type of Spider mites you can buy to get rid of the pest. They are bigger and seems to be very active. After several days i got nests with them and cannot say if they do their job or increase the issue I already got, so I tried your method. But I always do that a second time to get also the next spider mites generation(they will grow out of the eggs after the first procedure). Check also the plants close to the infected plant. In most cases its not one single spot and can return to your plant if you don‘t check the neighborhood 😉
I’m always suspect of the “predatory insect” methods. In order for predatory insects to thrive, there needs to be more prey. Meaning, it is in their best interest to keep the problem bugs thriving as a food source. I prefer manual eradication.
The soil can hold mite eggs. This is why you must repeat the sulfur spraying process 2-3 times in 7-day intervals. While the sulfur will kill the adult population, new eggs can hatch. You need that follow-up treatment to kill the young mites and the larvae, which will prevent a new cycle of egg laying and hatching. 2-3 treatments is usually sufficient, but you need to keep an eye on it.
I tried this.. Hosing with water trick. My Plants look better now. Funny thing is my indoor plants r in good shape, not a single spider mite. But my outdoor plants.. Rose, marigold.. All suffering with spider mite infestation. Hopefully wt u did should work for me too. Thank you from 🇮🇳
Spider mites do come from the outdoors. Luckily, it sounds like they haven't found their way indoors. At least yet, so always keep an eye on things. If you are in a location in India where it gets pretty cold during winter, it's possible the predatory insects aren't around anymore. Either way, this should hopefully knock them out permanently.
Should I treat the soil too? Or so spider mites only live/ feed on above ground parts. I'm rehabbing a calathea that just noticed yesterday the mites. I removed all of soil from roots, sprayed w hose, dunked everything in dawn water, sprayed w pyrethrin, rinsed, new soil with DE and pot, then s prayed w neem oil.
@@TheMillennialGardener I was taking my potted figs in/out of the garage and putting them on a wall right next to door so i don't have to carry them to far, 20 pots in all. I put them on the wall and noticed the entire wall was infested with red Mites. Don't put figs there! Where i used to live we had a wall separating the driveways and was same, little red buggers everywhere on wall. I guess its porous and they colonize it. Clicked link to ur store front and Sulphur dust is out of stock. where can it be gotten? Thanks
They’re most likely red velvet mites rather than the plant pest, two-spotted spider mites. Red velvet mites are larger (up to quinoa grain size), which are highly visible to the naked eye. They’re also zippy, constantly moving. Harmless...they break down organic material. Two-spotted spider mites, on the other hand, stick extremely closely to plants and are much tinier (a table salt grain or even smaller). They’re much slower moving and can appear clear to yellowish. If you look at them under a magnifying glass or microscope, you’ll see two rusty red spots on their backs (hence the name this pest was given). When they’re noticed, it’s primarily because the plant owner sees webbing on stems or leaves and then the yellowed spots on the leaves. You have to go looking for the mites themselves because of their tiny size.
My guess is it has something to do with when they grow new leaves. Spider mites are decimated by predators in the warm season, but not so much in the cool season. Considering not much leafs out in the winter in the US, citrus are one of the few exceptions pumping out new, tender leaves. My guess is the spider mites, who aren't being picked off by predators at the time, are looking for tender, new leaves, so citrus are the only things available. It's probably just a timing issue. That's my guess.
Ahh! I just looked closely at my marigold that is inside. The leaves are crispy. I looked really close and there are spider mites and webbing ALL over it. I threw it outside but it’s going to die because it’s 30 degrees out
Aww. Well, the good news is that marigolds have a fast reproductive cycle. Plant 1 marigold, and have 100 in a few months! 😅 They will reseed for eternity.
You can do exactly what I did in this video, except for hosing them off. When you dunk them, just make sure you don't dunk them beyond the 3 inches. You'll want to tape up the soil really well so none falls out.
Spider mites are really bad on tomatoes in my hot dry climate. Best thing for spider mites is Kelthane miticide but it's not available anymore. I bought a bunch years ago when I found out it was being pulled off the market and now im running low. I like it because it doesn't kill ladybugs and bees. It's a mite killer only.
@@TheMillennialGardener chemical. The TAMU horticulturist say it was the best thing we ever had that was available to consumers. I can’t use sulfur because it’s too hot when I get spider mites. They show up when we’re in the 90s and up. They thrive in hot dry climates. Aphids seem to be worse in wetter climates. There’s other miticides available but only available if you have a pesticide license. Unless there’s some available I haven’t seen. Have you ever tried Neem on them? I need to find something when I run out of Kelthane. Sulfers out and soaps out when your talking 90+ temps and dunking under water is impossible with in ground plants. Knocking them off with water is temporary as they’ll be right back if the plant can’t be moved.
@@jamesbarron1202 Vegas here, spidermites destroyed my tomato plants last month. After having managing to keep four balcony containers alive throughout the winter, it was so sad to see them die in mid-spring! I couldn't figure out what was dissicating the leaves until it was too late.
Good work,however, from my experience the mites immediately climb up the stem and hide in the dirt. Make sure your stem/soil is wrapped tightly prior to dunking in the water.
The key is repeating treatment. One single treatment likely won't be enough, because even if you destroy all the adult mites, there are probably eggs somewhere and a new reproductive cycle will begin. You need to follow up with 2-3 more treatments. Once you break the cycle and the next generation of mites are destroyed before they can reproduce, you'll have eliminated the problem. The sulfur really helps with this.
I got my second pharaohs mask... the first one was tossed because of mites (I was new to this) I’ve had this one for awhile and boom.... mites. 🙈 ty for this help.
Alocasia and Colocasia are absolutely notorious for spider mites! I've bought so many and every single one has died from spider mites. I will never get another one. It's a battle that is next to impossible to win with them. Good luck! 💚🌿💚
Lol... if i only knew about sulfur dust..... When i had spidermites on my orange tree....i put bag around it ....and smoked it... NEVER SEEN ONE AGAIN....i smoked them with wood smoke
Wettable sulfur will be best for infestations of spider mites on large plants. If you can carry that plant outside and blast it off with a hose first, you'll really increase your chances of success. Blast it off for a minute, let it dry completely, then spray the wettable sulfur for best results. Repeat the wettable sulfur application in 7 days, then in 14 days.
Ugh. I just found spider mites this morning. This video was super-informative, high protein as always, and I loved the Dale segment as usual! Despite freezing temperatures where I live, I took my key lime outdoors for a few minutes to blast it with my pump sprayer and then do the sulphur spray. (And I almost went flying when the water overspray made a thin layer of ice on my deck...) Here's hoping I got them all! Thank you for the video!
1. spraying the live mites all over your yard is probably going to lead to re-infestation. 2. great for plants 1-2 feet tall, but most spider mite infestations in my experience happen to my older plants that are like 4-5 feet tall.. so i guess i need a stock tank or something to dunk them in? 3. tinfoil or whatever is just protecting the mites living in the soil. needs a serious rethink.
i have just used alchol spray and shower the plant between. it works 100% for me. i had thrips and spidermites on my frig trees . i just sprayed them with alchol and two days after and put the to shower. and important removing 2-3cm of top soil. in case thrips eggs are in it or spidermite could have fallen into it. (and put it in the bin or furnace if possible)
@@TheMillennialGardener í didnt have the plants indirect sun for 2 weeks . Í would never do the spray outside or in direct sun . Í didnt experince no drawback.
Thank you for sharing this . I am growing purple angle trumpets. Everytime I grow them they get spider mites. I have the first plant in the water. I have high hopes!
They are extremely weak creatures. Once you blow them off, they struggle to get back on. *However,* it's really not possible to blow off 100% of them if you have a true infestation, so it's still best to treat them with sulfur over 2-3 treatments to ensure you destroy the reproduction cycle. Sulfur can be sourced organically, and it's fairly harmless as long as you don't combine it with oil. Oil + sulfur will burn your trees.
Our next-street-over neighbors just rescued their second dog and Dale is best buds with their first dog, so we wanted to introduce Dale to their new rescue, Hank. They became fast friends.
@@TheMillennialGardener that is so awesome! I love watching them all play together. My favorite is when one or all of them will get the zoommies and barrel around the yard. It’s so so funny!
No. I’ve never had any luck with predatory insects. By definition, in order to support the predatory insects, you need more pests for them to feed on. It is in the best interest of the predatory insects to maintain their food source, so I can’t see the benefit in relying on predatory insects since they require a maintained, robust pest population. My pest population is so enormous, it is like holding back a tsunami with toothpicks 😂
Hi, had never met a spider mite before but a new nursery geranium outside on the terrace is now covered and has passed it on to next door rose and other two. I have normal sulphur/copper spray.. would that be ok? Thanks
I would check the bottle of sulfur and make sure it says it is adequate for mites. If it is, I would use that. Just be sure not to mix anything oil-based, because oil and sulfur react and burns plants.
My story is too long to tell. I go to the point, I live on the top floor of a building, and above I have a terrace, after many years mint has grown among the tiles, and I was happy because the destination attracts ladybugs. This mint was born where there were no plants, this morning I looked closely and I noticed those damn white dots, I looked closely and I saw that damn red spider. What should I do? to disinfect the entire terrace? They are 170 square meters. Thyme, sage, rosemary, all infected. I could save the plants but how can I disinfect an entire terrace?
@@sosad9381 Still fighting with them. Just to update. The problem was mostly due Leafhopper and Thripidae. There isn't a fix for them, as I said they destroyed everything....but at the end i found a workaround. I've planted some Cantaloupe, their leaves, and all plants in general, are covered with a fluff, and so any insect that wants to lay something under the leaf dies. The plant doesn't need an special attention, and if you want you can even grow a mellon. At least is a biological fix.
If you read this...please tell us what you mean by a "fluff". Is it part of the cantaloupe plant or did you add it? And how does it kill the egg laying insect? @@xxvenomous
I lost both of my 4 year old Kratom trees in the freeze-pocolapse. One of my only losses despite desperate measures to protect them. Should have left them potted!!!!!
@@moniquegebeline4350 I'm sorry to hear that. Mines still very young but it's going to need transplanting soon into a bigger pot. I'm in Oklahoma, so I definitely have to leave it in a container.
@@samartinez1988 yeah I’m in zone 9a normally they can actually take cooler temps if protected but not that freak freeze. Even we went to 17F! (I’m on the gulf coast in MS)
I would rotate treatments with spinosad and pyrethrin concentrates. One of them will kill whatever the problem is. You can't mix them, and you have to use them separately. This video will help you: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CVh6TRcSWD0.html
Im having spider mite issues for the first time and it happens to be on my milkweed for my monarchs which I have to do a complete caterpillar and egg removal before spraying and I cannot use any chemicals
It is going to be difficult to get rid of them without some type of spray. What you can do is remove the caterpillars, spray the plants with sulfur, cover them for 24-48 hours with fabric or a tarp so butterflies cannot land on them, then remove the tarp and spray the plants down with water to clean them. That way, you’ll kill the mites and the butterflies cannot land on the plants when the sulfur is active.
@@TheMillennialGardener thank you so much! This happens to be a good time because the butterflies migrated so I shouldn't be expecting a ton of monarchs like in spring :)
The key is follow-up treatments to break the cycle of any eggs laid. You can get rid of all the adult mites, but if they laid eggs, they'll just restart the cycle. Killing the new babies before they lay new eggs is key.
