Nice straightforward real world video and no music! Yay! The bleeder cup is slick, I need to get one of those. True 3rd world oriented cheapskates can simply use their high pressure air fork pump to refill the shock reservoir with air, which is 78% nitrogen. I may or may not have done this 😂 Using ambient air from a small high pressure pump is not an ideal thing to do, but truly not the end of the world either, especially if one lives in a dry climate. The biggest reason to use pure nitrogen is it is perfectly dry.
Few weeks ago i almost did this same. I took apart everything but i couldnt get the needle fast enough so i just put it back together and send it to a shop. Maybe i will do it next time and order all parts before my shock blows up and i must service it. Great video!
FYI for the PDS shock owners. The plastic spring preload collar will not; repeat WILL NOT fit over the clevis once its back together. I ended up having to cut mine and stretch it over. Once clamped in place its fine but its easy to miss that detail. Great video tho. I've added it to my other suspension rebuild vids! 🤘
Thanks for sharing man. I just got the bleeder cup and SDI bladder kit. I have the vac pump and all that but think I'm just going to use the bleeder cup.
Hey thanks for the video. I’m getting setup to do an oil change on my pds shock with piston. Don’t plan on changing to the bladder. Can you clarify something for me. At the end of the video when you said you would set the piston height at this point, you already had the plug installed where the bleed cup was. If you have the plug inserted would you even be able to move the piston(ie. there’s no where for the oil to go)? Should you move the piston with the plug removed and then remove the cup and install the plug? Sorry I’m new to this.
I just did the race tech one. The cylinder is on there* extremely tight. You need to heat it with propane or similar gas and use a quality strap wrench if you do not have the special tool to hold it in place (depends on shock brand). It will not budge if it is not hot enough and your entire back is into it.
@@grutzmac Right on the threads. Got it hot until it started to simmer off some smoke. It's a notoriously dreaded job. I got it quite hot and didn't melt the O-Ring. Basically until the sticker started to deform.
nice! So in the longer run was the difference bladder/piston worth it? I’m reluctant re the bladder because it means more maintenance. Especially if the difference is not that noticeable.
it’s a small difference, I like it cause of the small performance change but also for the ease of maintenance with the schrader valve there. I’d still do it again, but only when you’re ready to do a regular service.
@@TechEnduro thanks. I like regular service, but I’ve never touched a shock because I don’t have the tools. I want to do the 6500 cartridge for the forks, but think I’ll leave the shock stock…
@@TechEnduro that was great! did not know WP shocks are kinda self serviceable. I am mainly not a moto guy fwiw, but in MTB applications we usually do not bother with pure Nitrogen anymore for about 10 years now and just use atmospheric air with no downsides. also pressurizing usually happens through regular tire core valves (on mtb shocks usual IFP/bladder pressure is ~160-200 psi) which clearly eases the damper service. when not using a vacuum pump to bleed, to help with countering the chance of cavitation, I think it is a good thing to try to dissolve as much gas as possible from the oil before filling the damper by decrompessing the oil in a syringe. heating up the oil in a pot might also work for that matter.
I got it from BFDMOTO.COM they are based in Canada but most suspension tuners that deal with WP can order it. Also Ktech and and others make them, I like the wp one because it has a Schrader valve.
Bigger question is why?… oil looks fine, nothing appears to be leaking…aside from the addition of the bladder kit…seems wasteful considering 90%+ of KTMs sold will never be raced let alone by a accomplished racer that using will use A Kit parts…
Mainly because I enjoy learning about maintenance. I also just do it at a normal interval to avoid a surprise that might ruin my ride. Necessary probably not, but I’d personally rather find clean fluid and no issues when I pull it apart vs a mess👍
50 hours you should change the oil as you will start to wear the cylinder out. Very important for longevity of shock consistency. Although you don't need to change seals needlessly.
My suggestion would of been if you’re going thru all the trouble to service the shock, to also remove the lower shock swing arm linkage and clean and grease those bearings/bushings.
