A tip of the hat to you sir ! very helpful information. If you ever get tired of the laser business you would definitely be a wonderful teacher, you held my attention for the whole length of the video. Not all people who teach have that gift of keeping the pupil engaged.
Thanx for putting your time and energy into helping us newbies get some of these details under our belts to prevent frustration and burn out. I just recently acquired a 10W diode laser and look forward to seeing what it can do....nowhere near your capabilities but a starting point to learn.....well done sir, again again thanx
Man, hands down one of the most comprehensive videos on how to do glassware! Started engraving about 4 days ago (started with the Daja DJ6 and also picked up the Laserpecker 2 with rotary tool). Unfortunately, I don't have the space for the bigger printers :(
Great info on engraving on coated stainless cups. I had been waiting to do one until I thought I had a good understanding of the Settings. I am going to give it a try today. Thanks for all the tips.
Just bought 2 bottles of LA's Totally Awesome degreaser. It works great, clean my smoker pellet grill's grates, cover and other parts terrific. Found today from the company's web site, these bottles are in the concentrated form, one needs to dilute them down into a another spray container. Wasted a few ounces unnecessarily yesterday. Lesson learned, still works great diluted.
Although I use a diode laser and have been doing cups for almost a year, I learned so much from your video. Thanks for sharing such great and straightforward information.
One edit! The technique of leveling the cup only works if your machine (specifically your machines bed) is also level. Many machines are set up in warehouses or garages, and those floors are not always level. The better way is to use your focus key and the z axis table motor to focus on the right side (aka the side that the rotary tool pivots on) and then the focus tool and the rotary pivot to focus to the left side of the “real estate” on the cup. That will ensure that the cup is parallel with the gantry of the machine. Aka perfect focus. Hope that all makes sense.
For the round logo, it would probably be easier to use the callipers to measure the width of the logo on the cup and then use that to calculate the percentage that you need to stretch the design by.
The way I show in the video is how its done, and has been done for quite a while now, Im not aware are the method your speaking on, but you should give it a go and see how it turns out and, maybe even make a video on how well or unwell that methods works. Its always nice to share laser hacks with the community, and things that are helpful.
@@LaserEngraving911 Well I'm new still waiting on the machine to arrive. If it's intelligent bring it on! That was an all-in-one. Saves on video surfing!
Great video...probably the best I have seen on this topic!!! I was under the impression from watching many videos that you should typically not run at 100% power...the primary reason seems to be tube longevity. True? False? Also, I have seen other videos that used cheaper, regular masking tape...thoughts? Thanks.
Great video dealing with engraving these various drink ware items. would you be able to send me a PDF with the calculations used for these.. thanks for doing the video
Brother this video is amazing. Maybe you can answer it a little further on this topic. My cup is the same diameter at the top as on the main engraving surface so i understand the formula to squish the round shape to make it look round. However the bottom of the cup is smaller than the top. So I used your formula for adjusting the width of the circle based on the opening being a different size, but how do i do both. I need to adjust for the top being a different size than the engraved area, and then also adjust for it being a circle to make it look round.
That is a tricky shape to get circles looking right on tapered cups my friend, your not alone in this, you just have to adjust those ones how they look best unfortunately.
Very helpful info, thanks! Have you etched double wall coffee mugs made with borosilicate glass? Interested to know if there are special settings to use.
Post a link here to seller on etsy who is doing a great job engraving photos on tumblers. I have not see a huge demand for this in my search for choosing what products to create for customers, not have a had more than 2 people in the past ten years ask me to engrave a photo on a tumbler. I'm genuinely curious if there is a huge demand for putting photos on tumblers, maybe things have changed and I missed the bus.?
Great video! Question you may be able to answer - I keep getting faint lines that won't clean off no matter how much LA Awesome I use. I've tried reducing Scan Interval (LPI), increasing it, I'm just at a loss.
Hello from Denmark Great video and very informative - have in mind to start up with laser Engraving, to expand my business, I am now in the printing business.
I like this video twice! Say I want to wrap the 30oz with the top & bottom of the work area in different sizes. How do I account for the adjustment? First time trying the rotary with the IR laser. I still need to adjust the P, S. 🤔
Just curious about the settings on the first cup you engraved: the graphic is a vector type, but the engraver was set to raster. The outcome was perfect, but it seemed illogical to me. Thoughts?
Raster engraving is a term used when the laser move back and forth along a set path to achieve the printing or engraving effect, vector cutting is when the laser is in ON and follows a set path, designated by the lines in your graphic. You an raster engrave a vector file or you can raster engrave a jpeg file, I always use vectors for all my engravings, as the are the cleanest, unless I'm doing a photo on wood, then I use bitmaps.
Hi. Total newbe here, waiting on my Qweike Pro II and motor through your vids :) They are fenomenal.. Thanks a lot. Regarding cleaning tumblers, won't the residue go away in a dishwasher?? Just wondering. Installing a washer in my shop is easy peasy job. Keep them vids coming. TR
Great video and very informative as always. Thank you for sending the equation sheet via email. Question: What if you have the irregular shaped drinkware and a circle? Yes, the circle. Are you suggesting both equations to be applied? Thanks and keep up the terrific topics that aren't frequently discussed, but need to be.
I am watching videos to research laser possibilities I might use to justify purchasing a laser of my own. I noticed you use a roller to rotate your cups and commented that that system does not come back to the same location producing ghosting. I also noticed you require math to compensate for font sizing and spacing. Have you considered changing out your roller for turning you parts between centres connected directly to your stepper?
Great video,thank you. I have a question about wine tumbler that looks like it has been squashed. And protrudes outward towards the center. How would you calculate something like that?
Ok I am new to the laser commuity and I am wondering if it matters on the "color" of the masking tape. Can you use regular White? Is there a difference between the painters blue vs green tape?
Outstanding video. Thank you for all you do. Question...I recently engraved a BLUE powder coated stainless steel tumbler with my normal setting (300 speed / 20% power on a OMtech 55 W) and the engraving turned out leaving what looks like a bluish tint on the stainless steel. Could this be due to the speed/power setting? Am i using to little power or the wrong speed? I would appreciate any suggestions. Thank you!
Its very typical for blue and red powder coated items to leave a blue or red translucent color after engraving usually this just wipes right off with some LAs totally awesome and a tooth brush like I show in the video. if it wont come off that way way slow your speed down and crank up your wattage to max and try again! I have a 60 watt machine I use here and my setting for all powder coated tumbler is 400dpi, 20% speed, and 100% power,, works great on all tumblers and all brands.
Use percentage is way simpler mat and should give you the measurement off your narrowest point not center but if you divide the widened width by the desired width 4”/2.5”=1.6”. The original from center was 1.9/3.16x2.5=1.5. If you round down the bottom you get 1.9/3x2.5=1.5833. As 3 as bottom is an estimate the simple math should workout
I am thinking of getting a laser. The one I am looking at Is an Ovsuqu Galvo Laser JPT M7 MOPA 100W Fiber Laser Machine 300x300mm will this cut and mark wood, Glass, Marble, and other nonmetal materials If I adjust the power, frequency, and other settings? My main thing is that I will be Engraving on gun parts.
No, your getting a fiber laser designed for metal, and some polymers, you need Co2 laser to laser engraving wood, glass, leather, acrylic and more check this unit out. shrsl.com/4fnxt
I have recently been fascinated with laser engraving as a potential business and watch RU-vid though an app on our TV and your channel was recommended. I found your presentations (this is the second one I watched, the first being why laser engraving businesses will fail) so informative when the video ended I stopped and went to open YT on something that I could subscribe to your channel. Great information. Do you think the laser engraving business is over saturated or still viable for someone wanting to do this professionally? If still a viable business model what would someone need to spend on a startup to get the proper tools and equipment needed? Trying to understand what a real world general number might be for good equipment that would allow someone to operate in a professional capacity with the potential to handle the majority of jobs one might encounter upon a startup. Any information you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and taking the time to do so.
Thanks for subbing and sharing your thoughts on starting a laser engraving business, here are a couple of things to note IMO: The laser engraving business industry is def not saturated, no way now how, however the diode laser sales market is most def saturated, and the idea that those machines a a great tool to start your laser engraving business is a saturated Idea, and only a sales ploy to get you to buy one of the 1000’s of cheap diode lasers out there. Truth be told diode lasers are a hobby tool great for learning and tinkering around and knowing how laser engravers work in theory, nothing more. If you want to start a true laser engraving business with machine than can produce fast results and mark and cut almost all materials without compromise, you will need a midrange Co2 laser and a mid range fiber laser. I would say you could pull this off total for 15-20k, Then you will have some other expenses for your website, and shop tools etc. You dont need to buy a Tesla right of the bat, 😂 but you dont want a tricycle either, you need to invest your time and money into something solid that can get you from A-B reliably , effectively, ( hope you like my car analogy) 👏👏
@@LaserEngraving911 The car analogy is great! This is what is was asking. I see the content about all the laser diode machines for sale along with all the other hobby grade maker equipment and then I see videos that show glowforge and some of their users who say they are making a living( and in some cases a small fortune) with the their machine and wonder if this is a real possibility or just hype. I have also realize there are different levels of equipment and wondered what one would have to spend to acquire decent quality equipment that would get things moving in a positive direction. Supposing an investment of the range you stated 15-20k plus a bit more for tools, software, etc. about how long would you suppose the ROI would take for a newcomer into the market place, working from home? BTW we live in Fort Worth, TX if that makes any difference. Thanks.
@@knowyourjoe8826 Sound like you are in need of a deeper level discussion on how to get set up and the nitty gritty of things. I offer 1 hr private session where I can take the time to discuss all your questions with you 1 on 1, if your interested when the time comes here is the link to book that! tinyurl.com/2chkfztm
Its possible! yes, but you are going to have to really dial in your settings because each manufacture has a different thickness of paint on the cups, so you will have lots of settings for different types of cups. and colors.
With that big of a taper, could you measure the diameter at the top and bottom of logo and "keystone" the graphic? Would that work or would it even matter?
Hi, thanks for this great explanation video. I only have one question. Where you engrave the tapered bottle, you did some math to calculate the new width of the logo, but you didn't change the dpi setting. In my opinion this means that the file will now have a much lower dpi on the output of the machine because the 300 dpi file is smaller, but will be stretched because of the rotation speed of the rotary roller. Don't you have to compensate for that dpi setting as well?
Yes, correct, I'm using vector graphics not jpg images, the dpi is set in my laser software, and does not matter with such small changes like this, changing your dpi to compensate, it only is applicable when you are going from very small to very very very big, and if you not using vectors.
question on the stemless wine glass, it has a taper to it, did you have to do anything to figure for the bottom of the logo being wider then the top? great video by the way alot of great info
Hey There, with Stemless wine glasses I usually don't do anything special unless its a round logo and I have to use the stretch method to make it look more like a circle.
@@LaserEngraving911 Yeah, taking about stainless steel cups. What's the equation you use to figure a perfect circle when you don't have a neck on the cup? I know on the bottle you multiply A x B then divide it by C but on the cup there is no A, just B and C. 🤔🤔
Great video. That paint for Stainless steel is definitely something else. Question I have, let's say your tumbler is powder coated and you engrave it. Will engraving it, spraying it in place with the laser paint and re-engraving give it another color? In theory, I'm assuming it will. I am just wondering if you have tried it. Thanks for the content, look forward to a cup haha.
In theory yes, however I don't spray thing in my laser, the risk of getting spray on my lens and electronic is not worth it, I would recommend you "paint" the product on in place, you can get brilliance laser ink in paintable format. that you can brush on.
Thanks I'll give that a try! I can get the code to read on black pretty consistently and it even reads on the blue tape to test alignment but the same code on red tumblers does nothing on android or iPhone... @@LaserEngraving911
These are great tips. One question: How do you handle extremely tapered things? I have done whiskey type glasses that had a heck of a taper and thus the logo distorted and got noticeably smaller or wider at the top/bottom. I ended up distorting the vector image but no amount of math could make it consistent. Tips?
Take a look at my blog post here: check out the diagram in the blog see if that helps. www.laserengraving911.com/post/how-to-laser-engraving-lots-of-drinkware-cups-and-all-that
Thanks so much for this video! Wondering if there is anything you can do to brighten the stainless steel that looks like the laser has burned too much? Like the stainless steel looks darker even after cleaning with ZEP spray. Does the LA awesome spray clean that too?
@@LaserEngraving911 have a 60watt 3D m7 jpt mopa on the way. Hopefully will be here in a week or so. Wonder if 3D head will fix this without correction factors.
