This video gave me the confidence to try it myself, using the same tools and methods. I was nervous, doubtful and I did make a few mistakes at first... but my guitar now plays perfectly with action I've always dreamed of.
Thanks for the informative, simple video layman’s terms as opposed to pulling out all your expensive repair gear and confusing much of the internet with unnecessary mumbojumbo. Really is a breathe of fresh air!
Thank you for this instructive video! It's the best one I've come across so far. The tip about the highest frets I've never heard or read about anywhere.
Hey man. Nice job! This video gives me the confidence to try this on my own. I have a neck I can practice on for my first go at it. This was very helpful. Thank you. Subscribed!
Thank you :) it's definitely daunting the first time but once you do it, it's actually pretty easy and as long as you're careful, nothing should go wrong. Let me know how you go with it :)
Amazing tutorial mate! I have a Fender strat but the nickel frets have been worn out causing fret buzz in some areas. I'll be using this video as a reference to level my frets! Thanks a ton!
Great video! A couple of things I do differently: 1) I make three shims, exactly the same thickness (wood, plastic, doesn't matter) and place them on the ends and middle of the fretboard, then lay my straight edge on top. As long as it touches all three equally, that's as straight as anyone's going to get that neck. 2) I use a small triangular ("three-square") file for both crowning the frets and tidying their ends, but it has had its sharp corners ground down slightly, so the faces still work but there's less chance of damaging the wood. When crowning, it's important to leave the thinnest line of sharpie along each fret.
This was very helpful, thank-you for taking the time to post it! And thank-you for providing the details of the tools and materials that you used as many other videos just gloss over this.
This video gave me the confidence to try it myself, using the same tools and methods. I was nervous, doubtful and I did make a few mistakes at first… but now my guitar is wrecked, my house is on fire and my fish have all died.
tip for the fret fall off if you have a large levelling beam - 16 inches for example - (credit - saw this on crimson guitar channel) - put a few layers of masking tape on two thirds of the beam. This will protect the frets you don't want to have fall off from getting lower, whilst making the beam slightly angled so that it hits the frets you do want to have fall off :)
Great video thank you, very informative, just wondering, though, when leveling the frets wouldn’t it be better to use a sanding block with the correct radius of the fretboard? Like the ones you can find online?
A few things that I have learnt that may (or may not) be helpful 1) leveling the neck off the "wood" is not always the best (using a notched level) as the wood of the neck is not always true. This applies also to individual fret "leveling" tools that rely (rest on) the neck wood to be perfect - you should avoid such tools. A Gibson SG that I just did was substantially different leveling off the wood vs leveling off the frets ( understanding that leveling off the frets, if they are not yet true, you must allow for some variation). 2) I never use fret rockers, if you want low action (mine leave with almost zero relief, low E at 1.00 mm and high E at 0.75mm, with the action up a bit from that if the guitar player is more heavy handed ) a fret rocker is a very crude tool. I will level the neck from the wood and than check level on the frets, and if there is a difference go with the frets being level. 3) I assure the neck is true, allowing time for the wood to move and settle ( typically overnight if the relief adjustment is significant) - then I will tape it down, felt mark all frets and do a very light pass over everything - not enough that recrowning is required, but enough to "read" the neck and tell you if it needs a full level. This has proven very useful. 4) I always create a fall off at the frets on the "heal" of the neck - the strings vibration radius is the greatest here, and the truss rod adjustment has no impact at this point in the neck. There is much more, but just some thoughts is all. (:~>
aren't you suppose to check if the neck is straight while the strings are on and with a notched straightedge because of the tension the strings give from pulling?
@@donbabcock6021 I didn't mean to remove the neck, I meant that the measurement of the straightness in the neck should be done while the strings are on, since it creates tension, which is not apparent when the strings are taken off. Using for instance a Notched Straightedge ruler
Sad that someone tried to ruin this in other ways very fine video, by playing disturbing guitar close to your microphone, so that people with english as our second language, couldnt concentrate on the information of your speech.
