Talking about 10 to 14" radius. What do you radius the bridge at? 17" Extending the cone in CAD. I know prs have compound radius sanding blocks, but I've had mixed results with them (made on CNC *always end up with flat spots. moving the fret board through undulating radius changes radius based on stroke length) *working on a surface grinder ish setup to control and cut down spot levelling. Also, on spot levelling and in regard to your fret kisser video there are some duds where the diamond is proud of the reference surfaces (thanks for my understanding of my return). Thanks again for your insight and clarity on topics.
Thank you so much! Perfect instructive content. It contains everything what I want to know for a long time and you teach them very easily. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge!
I just can't stand how much I like how you go out of your way to talk about conical radius as opposed to compound radius. Correct is correct, even if the more common term isn't. Just fantastic! On the other hand, I'm a huge NERD when it comes to this sort of thing. And now I want to talk about the difference between quarter sawn as opposed to vertical grain. If anyone wants to be bored by my answer just ask! I'm certain Chris knows.
Hi Chris, could a swinging jig above a belt sander do this for you, especially if you're putting a radius back on a neck with worn frets? The swinging jig could have adjustable arm length on each side of the neck to dial in the compound radius.
What about using compound radius sanding block for compound radius fretboard? I've got a compound radius block and I think it's pretty useful, though a bit tricky in use. It should be moved strictly in parallel direction to the frets and in the same position all the time. And applied pressure have to be even all the way the block goes. Being used this way it levels the frets pretty fast keeping proper radius allover the fretboard.
@@HighlineGuitarsthe block I use was custom made with a CNC machine as a prototype. It's not a serial item for sale. But I think you can make the same block with your CNC machine easily. The block I use is 12" to 16" radius, 0.49 m (about 19.3") length and 0.07 m (2.75") width. It covers all the fretboard on 25.5" scale guitars. It doesn't work for the multi scale fretboards.
@@HighlineGuitars this kind of sanding block doesn't work as regular ones which supposed to be moved up and down the fretboard. The compound radius block works only if it's moved from side to side the fretboard. I use a capo placed before the nut as a guide to move the block strictly parallel the frets. And the guitar has to be fixed tightly on the desk so you could hold the block with both hands.
I think the guitar in this video is perfection. It is stunning to look at and I bet it is smooth as silk to play. Congratulations on creating a Masterpiece.
Hi Chris, How do you level a full scalloped neck? Same approach? How about neck relief on the same scalloped neck? If you can explain action on that type of neck, that would be a plus+++
As the owner/builder of a few scalloped necks, it's all the same as regular. Really low action is possible because you can still get your fingers under the string to bend.
How do you go about putting a radius into the fret wire with a compound board? Do you slowly increase the radius every few frets? Is it possible to get everything almost fully level after install and then spot level or does a compound radius require a full level after install?
If you put steel frets on 12 at nut and 16 at heel....is better to use 12 radius frets,will ss frets follow wood radius? Or is better sand wood on 16 inch radius?
With stainless steel, I make sure the radius of the wire matches the radius of the fretboard where it will be installed. Trying to press a 12" radius wire into a slot with a 16" radius could cause the center of the fret to pop up.
