Great video! This is something I've been struggling with lately. Your books have been a great help teaching me how to master this technique and watching this video today really gave me the refresher I needed and I learned some new pointers from you that I didn't see in the books. Thanks again Nathan! I really appreciate all the work and teaching you do. Happy New Years! 🥇
OMG this video just solved my problem at all!! I was trying to asking you that “please make how to use studio strobes in real estate photography” and you just gave an idea with video! Thank you so much!
LOVE your videos. Keep them coming. I bought 5 of your books including the book on lighting and I've watched almost every video but I still have one question. You never talk that much about the height of your mono light. Somewhere in all that I've seen from you, you talk about 18" from the ceiling. But I swear I've seen in some reflections in windows that it's much lower. Is it always at the same height? Wouldn't it be better for fall off to have it lower? I have an AD400Pro and I've been practicing in my house with vaulted 14-foot ceilings and 1/4 power 18" away doesn't seem to be the right solution. Thoughts? P.S. can you start showing photos of your mono light placement the way you often show the speedlights during your shoot. A picture is worth a thousand words in trying to figure out your magic.
Thanks! Sounds like a great tutorial, and I'll put it on my todo. In short: there's a balance of having your light too low where it would occupy a greater area of wall, thus shedding more color cast. If you were shooting an entirely white room, then yes, you could have your light lower as that would maximize fall-off and there is no risk of color casts from a nearby wall. But, since many walls have color and you want to minimize light bouncing off other, lower elevation color features like floors and furniture, then you need to keep your light high enough to avoid those areas. There's also the issue of power vs. fall-off. Definitely a great tutorial subject, and it's definitely on my todo list :)
Hi Nathan, I've watched a great deal of your videos and they're all so clear and informative. I'm looking forward to purchasing your new books, too. The videos have been very helpful to me in my pursuit of becoming a real estate photographer (I particularly loved the trick of flipping the camera around for bathroom mirrors, to avoid its reflection--brilliant!). Now I feel like I have many of these techniques down and I have been working regularly for one or two clients in the Los Angeles area, but I really need to get more clients! So I wanted to ask you how you started in real estate. Did you use any specific methods to market yourself, to expand your client base? I've printed up promotional materials like postcards and informational flyers that I can pass out when visiting open houses in my area, and next I was thinking I would try to attend some of the weekly meetings that real estate offices hold for their agents, and perhaps take five minutes to introduce myself, pass out the promotional materials, and make some connections. What do you think? What did you do? Thanks for your time, Roel.
Thanks Roel, glad my videos have been helpful. You can purchase my books on Amazon at: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4 and www.amazon.com/dp/B0779PCVWC/ I sure do appreciate the support! I'll look into writing a book on starting and marketing real estate photography businesses as well!
Hi Nathan, sorry for being a bit off topic, but I have a question regarding using a speedlight. Whenever I turn on the transmitter for my flash, the exposure on the live view changes and goes much brighter. I assume the camera (Canon 5d) is trying to predict the final exposure?This is quite annoying because it means every time I take a shot where I'm trying to dial in the exposure for the ambient light in the room, I need to turn my flash off for the live view to display the correct exposure. I'd like the live view to always show the true exposure, regardless of the flash being on or off. Am I missing a setting somewhere? Any help from anyone would be appreciated.
Awesome delivery on all of your videos Nathan. Which one of your books do you recommend? I have watched and practiced most things on your videos. Also I shoot with a Nikon D810 and the native iso is 64, DO I STILL KEEP MY ISO SET TO 320? In addition do you manually focus the Tokina 16-28 or do you focus through Af-On button? Thank you for your reply.
Hi Nathan, I've watched a great deal of your videos and I bought your books about e.g. flambient. The problem I run into is that if I want to remove myself with a mask in Lightroom, the other layer is a bit darker or lighter. In the RU-vid movie "How to Light a Long Room" at 6:55 ; you remove yourself without seeing a difference. Am I doing something wrong with the lighting?
Hi Henk, sounds like it's time to take this to the next level to learn how this is done. I show this in prointeriors.nathancool.com which shows step by step how to do that, and a whole lot more.
I had a harder room situation today... a kitchen, dining and lounge all in one view... the kitchen had warmer lighting, the dining and lounge area had very dim white light with blue daylight coming in, all be it minimal because they have darker tint on their windows!... so turned them off... I moved the flash around - Yongnuo 565ex II but it seems to lack in power... even at 1/1 in Manual mode. Ive taken a heap of images but dare say I will be compositing for a while... I'm thinking I really could use a stronger Xplor 600 some day sooner than later... with this flash used as a slave.
Nathan, have watched many of your videos and really appreciate your thoughtful, professional approach. I have been looking into doing real estate photography in the Philadelphia area, but all the RE agents I have talked to are telling me that the photo fees paid here are really low. What am I missing in getting better pricing? Thanks, Bob
All markets are different, and there are markets within markets that are based on quality and what agents are willing to pay. I can only recommend that you do some research for your area, see what your competition is charging, what your clients are willing to pay (and for what), and what your time is worth to provide the products you're offering.
Does it matter, alignment wise, if you do your geometry alignment before importing into PS or after, back in LR? I get nervous that if I align my shots in LR first that it will align them differently causing a bigger headache later. Thanks.
Never heard of aligning anything in LR...only in PS. Geometry correction though can be done at any time, although "technically" speaking, the more you do when in the image's RAW stage (LR) then the higher quality image...but that's splitting hairs, and negligible.
Sorry, didn’t mean aligning but rather getting the geometric corrections done in LR beforehand or after. But this does answer my question so thank you for your continued help!!
