I have done some woodworks in the past but this woodwork plan ru-vid.comUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG helps me do much in a far lesser time than i used to do i have already built several projects with this plan and i intend to do many more soon. Thank you so much!
It's amazing how calming and therapeutic it is watching something like this being made. I would absolutely love to apprentice under someone like you and start my own woodworking shop in Japan to combine what you do with other traditional Japanese "no nail" techniques.
Id like to comment on Gary Dodgson's comment. There is no such thing as a "proper joint" so long as the joint chosen has the strength required for the job. This method is effective and every bit as strong as a mortise and tenon as well as being easier and faster to make for those who may not feel comfortable or lack the tools to do M&T joints. It also has the added benefit of (if properly done) self squaring the assembly. Further, exposed joinery is in my opinion often a nice design element on its own. Lastly, if you examine the mechanics of the two joints you will see that they both get their strength from the same principles of physics
@@МихаилИванов-ж1ь4з ну прям уж станкИ. обычной циркуляркой или фрезером все можно сделать, а если сильно захотеть, то и стамеской. Единственное на каждый способ нужно затратить разное время
@@O-Denis-O , конечно можно, до этого именно так и делал, и стамеской и циркулярной пилой. А ещё можно огонь камнями добывать и ходить в лаптях))) Но зачем
Very impressive - I really need to go in the shop and practice this joint - no way I will have this kind of skill in one hundred attempts, so very cool - thank you
Very cool, thank you for sharing. I want to use 4" (W) stretchers for a long table but my table saw will only cut about 3" deep. Would you say I need to switch to 3" stretchers?
비디오 주셔서 감사합니다! 두 개의 판자가 합류하는 곳에서 더 긴 판자가 바닥이나 상단에 있으면 테이블의 안정성이 더 좋습니까? 당신은 그것이 전혀 차이를 만들 것이라고 생각합니까? 좋은 날 되시기 바랍니다 :-) Thanks for the video! Is it better for the stability of a table if, at the place where the two planks join, the longer plank goes on the bottom or on the top? Do you think it would make a difference at all? Hope you have a nice day :-)
I'm just getting started in my woodworking journey, and I'm so glad I found your channel! Can I ask why at 5:37 you space out the wood and then remove the spacer before making your cut? Why not just set your rail and run the wood along it while you are cutting?
The reason you do that is because if your fence is not completely square to the blade all the way from one end to the next, your work piece will follow the fence and the cut will be off by that much. This way with the set up block set between your work piece and the fence you now know you are square to the blade at that point. And are not dependent on riding the fence all the way through your cut if your fence is off even the slightest bit. I hope this helps. Also, you should do this all the time.
Avoiding kickback, it the piece starts to get wedged against the fence. There are lots of videos on what happens during kickback, we’ll worth watching.
Avoiding kickback, it the piece starts to get wedged against the fence. There are lots of videos on what happens during kickback, we’ll worth watching.
Hola amigo, estoy suscrito a su canal y he visto todos los proyectos de carpinteria que ha subido, lo felicito usted trabaja con mucha calidad, he aprendido mucho viendo sus trabajos, gracias por dedicar de su tiempo a que otros aprendan. Un fuerte abrazo para usted desde la isla de CUBA, saludos y hasta pronto.
Here is a tiny additional idea I used to make a coffee table few years ago : When using this joint, instead of cutting the space in the foot to match exactly the height of the frame (meaning it looks flat for receiving a plateau), you can dig a bit deeper, let's say 1cm. This will result in having some sort of 4 pins standing above the plane of the frame. Cut only the inner one (in the angle formed by the two piece of frame) to match the height of the frame and leave the other ones as it. If you do that on all 4 feet, you can put a plateau in between the pins (resting on the frame), and the pins will prevent it from sliding away. On my table I used a glass panel for the plateau, as it exposes the inner structure of the joint.
I am making some side tables and the project stalled because I could not make up my mind about the joinery. I had forgotten about this joint, I think I will use it for those tables...thanks! Great work as always.