That only applies if you're replacing the O2 housing/Main Catalytic Converter. Even then, it still wont damage your engine if you do might just run a little rougher
@@Farman-tn6iz the stock sensors are calibrated for a 2.5" intake so your ECU will have no clue how much air its actually seeing and will run like shit if it runs at all
My buddy had 3ib Takeda intakes with a straight piped single exit Tomei exhaust. He never had any issues until he crashed the car and had the bumper off and drove through a puddle and hydro-locked his engine lmao
made 331whp on just OBX LTH, OBX catback exhaust and ported upper/lower manifolds still on stock airboxes too! if I do 3 inch intakes I can definitely hit 350+ whp and my engine is 140k on mileage!
Vq's will definitely not run properly with 3" intakes and different injectors without a tune- especially with e85 as the fuel values differ considerably. Not an option unfortunately.
@@RyanScanlan-o7o totally agree it won’t run properly but could run enough to drive it somewhere near to get tuned if done at the same time and want to install the parts yourself. Def not putting e85 in till a tune tho
Yeah, that’s definitely not bad. Would definitely recommend a tune with them if you don’t, but Car could run a little rich and not be getting enough air.
Lmao Fr I thought for number 5 he was gonna say a bigger fuel pump for sure, if you’re running e85 on stock pump you’re missing out on gains for sure lol
PRECIATE IT BRO. So I do everything myself, but my tuner had to install the intake and injectors at his shop, but I also helped and the intake and injector install plus retune was about 800 Dyno 200$ Injectors-320$ Intakes-400$ Catback-400$ Test pipes-200$ I do have a video on my channel that goes in depth with all these that might be a little more accurate !
@@kapow_g37 about to binge all the videos on your channel haha, I'm looking to grab a g37! I'm moving from new england to Arizona here soon, I'm more excited to grab a G than I am to move into my new house haha! Thanks for the response man, you've gained a lifelong subscriber with me🦾
@@joshg0h79 that’s the crank horsepower rating for the car. Crank horsepower is how much the motor individually makes realistically this car is about 280 wheel horsepower so how much power is actually getting to the ground. So I ended up making 341 wheel horsepower about 61 whp or I believe it was like 18% increase in power
“Technically” they’re not engine mods, they’re bolt ons. Engine mods would be internal upgrades. Not knocking the car. That’s amazing power out of some bolt ons man. A lot of folks do an exhaust and intakes and usually land around 320ish. Stellar power out of a NA v6.
Yeah, I called them engine mods because they still are part of the engine but for something like Bolton I just don’t consider them an “internal” mod which is more what I would call something like Rods Pistons, etc. But yeah, these naturally aspirated V6 is sure are fun to tune and make make faster.
Intakes, injectors, exhaust, test, pipes, headers. Really everything that will do it that you can buy you just kinda gotta find the brands that will work for you
U can def still run 91 an but you would gain power without a tune. That’s really the main reason y injectors actually gain hp and also 92 u can’t gain as much as e85 but still a little
Eh I do like the look of GTO‘s not a huge fan of the CTS also, don’t care to have a sedan. But where I live already consists of a ton of just V-8 so I like having the Japanese V6 little different and fits my style more.
On my 370Z I got 321 peak rwhp with a Stillen Gen 3 long-tube CAI, a Fast Intentions 2.5" true dual x-pipe cat back and an Ecutek tune from Specialty Z in Simi Valley, CA. I run 94 octane with Sunoco SS100 blended with 91 oct Shell V-Power Nitro+.
e85 is key. im at 322whp with oem AEM V2 intakes test pipes and tune! thats it. V2 AEM Intakes are so underrated. IMO the best intake all things considered. Although there might be w few reasons for my high dyno. I have a 2016 Nismo so the exhaust flows better than OEM and V2 nismos have the updated header design. Also the biggest restriction by far is the cats. I feel almost all 370'z can gain 30+whp with test pipe and tune alone. Everything else contributes slightly to the end Number. Basicially diminishing returns as you for and ultimately peaking at 330-345whp for most
currently have Invidia full catback, was thinking about getting ISR LTHeaders.. What is the best tune I can get for 08 G37S coupe with those mods? I think I'm stuck with only 1 option right? and its like 1000$?? anyone have a cheaper route for tune? 1k seems like a lot for so little
If you can find someone to tune it in person as opposed to remotely then it could definitely be cheaper possibly but Z1 does also offer a like $800 remote flash tune
Dead wrong. It’s torque that’s kill engines and trans not HP. VQ trans can take up to 400 lbs torque until you have to eventually upgrade it to VR30 trans or Level 10. You don’t have to upgrade trans yet if your just tuned or FBO but if you want to eventually add forced induction( supercharge, turbo) then upgrading to the VR30 trans is priority. VQs can take a beating and the internals are already strong, supports up to 600-700 max HP, anymore than that you’ll have to start upgrading the engine internal components.
Appreciate the video, I made 340whp with my 2011 Nismo 370Z with similar mods. I'm now at 358whp but with a lot more effort/money producing much lower bang for the buck. One thing I noticed however, it appears you have your intake tubes installed upside down. The MAF sensors should be hidden on the bottom side of the tube. This is a key differentiator of the Z1 intakes vs. Stillen etc.
I belive it’s up to preference Wich way for the tubes they can be up or down cuz my tuner had installed and I think he asked or maybe just did like that not a diff in power I don’t think
@@kapow_g37 Obviously they are just tubes, but they are not installed correctly. Your tubes are likely installed on the wrong side and/or MAF sensors are likely turned 180 degrees as intended. Again not the end of the world, and obviously your car is running just fine. However, Z1 intentionally designed them to have the sensors installed underneath, for a cleaner engine bay. Here is step 27 on the installation guide copy and pasted from Z1: Locate (2) air intake pipes and (2) large hose clamps. There is a left and right intake pipe. The MAF sensor should be on the bottom side of the air intake pipes, with the arrow showing the direction of airflow pointing towards the throttle bodies. Position loose clamp over post-MAF hose and slide in air intake pipe.
His tubes are not installed wrong. Most kits have the sensor on top just like stock. If he flips them over like you say.....A- mounting brackets wouldn't have anywhere to mount and B- crank case vents would have to be ran all the way to the other side of the tube. Just because yours is a different way doesn't mean his is wrong.
@@Bobby_Stoneso Z1s instructions are incorrect and everyone else with Z1 intakes on their 370z/G37 has their intakes installed incorrectly? Interesting…
Sarcasm bro....I have a z1 on mine...installed correctly there's no need to run more tubing for crank case + looks cleaner. I guess I could have been more clear
Jus got my g37x last week I’ll eventually mod it buh should I do these mods then tune or do intakes n injectors last n e85 tune or should I tune after every mod?(im new to the car scene always had a love for them ik a little ab a lot dis my first car I’ll be moddin)
I mean in a perfect world tuning it after every mod would be nice but tuning is very expensive. Can be $500-$1000 every time. Now you don’t need a tune if you’re removing the cats or doing headers, but you may get engine codes and your car might run a little different but definitely don’t NEED a tune. If you’re doing intakes or injectors, though you’re definitely going to need a tune or your car is not going to run correctly. I will say I did injectors and intake at the same time and it was running after I had them installed, but if you are spending that much for modifications, you really need that tune to make sure it’s doing what it needs to, and you have to really have a tune to run 85
I personally had a full exhaust and test pipes (removing the catalytic converters) and then got a street tune(no dyno) then I had actually waited to just do injectors and intake so that I could get them as a pair so I only needed to get tuned one more time with those mods
Dyno will read differently based on day and location (elevation). I’ve gone two to different dynos with the same mods and made saw a difference of 10whp.
Just getting a tune could definitely increase some power and how it runs, but not too much without supporting mods, also unless you’re changing out the catalytic converters exhaust wouldn’t really make much of a difference maybe just a little if you replace mufflers
Hmmm idk bout that one man these engines need air. Maybe you could get that with like no air filters or something, but like those stock air boxes won’t support forever
@kapow_g37 speed culture studios has a vid of his on the dyno hitting that number with the stock box. It's been said that at least on these cars...the stock intake is actually pretty good.
@kapow_g37 test pipes cat back is all far as I know. Then he put a intake on it and dyno'd it again and lost power. Check him out if you haven't seen it. He got it tuned at soho. @speedculturestudios
@@cristiannicanor6555 honestly what you ask is kind of up to you most of the time they kind of already know what they’re doing and lay everything out but once you find someone, I would just ask some questions so you know what to expect. Also, my tunes were about $750, plus $200 for dyno time
@kade_pow7 @kade_pow7 @kade_pow7 resonated test pipes around 300, cheapest catback is arouynd 600 for a single exit and 1000+ for a dual exit one, intake gonna run around 500-600, injectors are about 100 a piece so 600+ pump if you do that. and for the tune +675 on sale for a ecutek tune through z1 motorsports which goes up 400 if you have full exhaust, 3 inch intakes, or e. idk who has gone through z1 but even like a tune from rs enthalpy is gonna be around a grand. all together it is gonna cost you 3000 on the low end and goes up into the 4000 range for better parts. also all of this is without labor even though almost all this can be done yourself pretty easily. this is from my experience idk what you paid for what
