If you liked this video make sure to check out my video where I designed, 3d printed and installed a custom intake duct on my 350z! > ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g51OIcSzgog.html
@@medamine9330 I live in las vegas, it gets 48°/120°f here and i have not had abs melt. Some lower quality abs might not handle it, but good quality should.
Can't even begin to explain how impressed I am. The possibilities for other custom parts (for any car and any purpose) are virtually endless. I LOVE how you made it look factory. Well done sir!
Einstar or the Revo lineup are solid units for the price. Scanning has its own challenges, but once you figure out a decent workflow, it is a game changer.
@EndMotive a ton!! Let's see here, overhead console is trash often. Also, many people want to move to 08 superduty doors, dash, etc, but the rear doors of an f350 are like 5 inches to narrow versus the excursion. There's conversion kits for everything else.
A lot of parts are pretty easily swappable with the f250/350 models, but if it is excursion specific, it's harder than hell finding parts unless they are being scrapped.
Some years ago I also made some car accessories like a radio cover and some can holders with different materials. I spent days of sanding, priming, and painting the parts. Over the years they all bent by the influence of the elements (heat, cold and humidity). It was a very painful experience. I hope it won't happen to you! Edit: the materials I used were mostly PETG and ABS, but also some in PLA. All the materials behaved the same way!
@@bitosdelaplaya Heat resistant, yes. Have you ever been putting your curing resin part too long under UV light? It is deforming and getting extremely brittle and hot because of reactions going on in the part. ;-)
Wow, that paint and texture looked like a factory piece when I saw it on the rag as you assembled it (still waiting to see in the car on the video), but damn that's looking good so far!!! EDIT: And holy crap!!! That looks amazing!! Did you use the textured paint to get that finish? How did you get that factory texture finish?? I wonder if there is a way to get that in Fusion or something and add that to the print. Just tiny "bumps" to match factory, so your print detail would have to be super fine. but would be awesome to print factory style finished parts!
Thank you, I have played around with trying to add texture into the 3d model but have had very limited success. The texture was added with the SEM texture spray, it works great!
This is not a “how to”. I was hoping to learn more than what you provided. It’s a cool video and interested in the product. Definitely entertaining but not a how to as you didn’t directly teach me anything. So that’s a little misleading. Now if you titled it “I made a”, that would be a lot more accurate.
Awesome video! I'd like to replicate your process - I've got a lovely Ender 3 S1 Pro, but no 3D-scanner sadly. Have seen videos about using a phone. Probably not as easy, but should be possible...
Looking good. Amazing how some videos get huge numbers of views! Subscribed amd will catch up on some ofher videos. Im planning a roof console build in my 51 GMC.
I'd probably be doing the same, however, time is money. If you are having to sand and modify lots after the production to get it refined so people will buy it, you are cutting into your profit. Have you considered a better printer? Resin perhaps?
Yes, I have a resin printer actually but the parts are fairly fragile on the small clips. I wouldn't even consider doing all that work for production parts...no way it would be profitable! I have had quotes to get it sls/mjf printed but they were too high to leave me any margin and I am still considering casting them out of a two part urethane or something similar.
Not sure how hot it is where you are but ABS amy be right on the borderline for handling direct sunlight especially close to the windshield. The positioning of the partial sunblock film on the window may however save the day. Great project!
@karlosss1868 Thanks!, I have had no problems with abs in the Vegas (115f) heat, but I ended up making one out of sls nylon 12 anyways, no worries now!
i was thinking the same thing for my Toyota Sequoia. it has a flip down sunglasses holder and i thought how cool it would be if that was for a aux light panel
Excellent work. Thank you for sharing the materials list. I wouldn't have had any idea about the texture spray. Quick question, how thick (in mm) did you make the walls of your part? I'm planning a dashboard-mounted panel, and an wondering how thick I should plan, to make things feel sturdy. (I'm leaning towards 5mm, but I also know I tend to over-engineer parts)
Hey! This part was most a "block" in design and didn't have very many walls. I have since redesigned this part and it is closer to 2mm wall thickness in most areas, but it will be printed out of pa12 nylon. With abs I usually shoot for 2-4mm thickness though.
Hi, am interested in a building a frame for 6gang Auxbeam, to fit underneath the ashtray. The car is a Toyota Hilux/VW Taro 1988-1997 model. Can you help me? Thank you
Give XTC-3D a shot for coating, works like a charm and sands easily while adding strength to the parts! (might work out to be overall cheaper than JB weld as well)
Yeah the jb weld was a first test, it was a bad idea lol. Regular body filler is pretty easy to sand and works great, however you are probably right that the xtc-3d would likely add some strength!
The part is fairly difficult to produce so I just decided to offer it as a digital download, If you have a 3d printer you can make it yourself or outsource.....just didn't make sense to make them myself unfortunately. The files can be found on cults3d.com > cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/auxbeam-8-gang-overhead-mount-for-nissan-frontier-xterra-pathfinder
Yeah in theory, but I am working on getting some better tools to make things like that easier....so for the timing being I wouldn't be able to take it on.
are you available for higher? ive got a similar idea, and a mirror housing i need 3d scanned and flipped so i can also use it on the left side. let me know if you are interested. im sure we can work something out
Sweet man. Just one question. I printed ur designed and only then realized that they changed 2022 frontier upper consul design. Now the part for sunglasses doesn’t pop out. It’s one solid pcs. Any ideas how to remove the door and may be I l stall the holder inside there?!
@@EndMotive it’s basically same as before but entire upper counsel is one peace. I can install just the part where the controller goes if I remove the part that flips down for glasses.
@@yasikb Yeah, on my truck I had to remove the sunglass holder to install this....sadly it is one or the other right now, but I am working on a design to actually install the auxbeam in the sunglass holder!
Do you print and finish everything yourself for your etsy shop? Or do you print and prototype and then outsource it? Just wondering cause I'm really interested in trying to 3d print some ideas of mine and try to sell them. Really amazing work btw!
I do not outsource any of my products currently, not that I am against it by any means. I have actually tried to minimize the amount of parts that need extra steps after printing. Sanding and painting are very time intensive processes that totally kill my margin.
I have links to all the tools I use in the description of the video, but I can try to make a video highlighting them as well. Einstar 3d scanner>fusion360>FlashForgeGuider2s most of the time.
@@EndMotive Thanks for this fast reply! I just thought that describing the process of going from part to digital format to 3D print would be good to see. As you have already presented, things don’t always go smoothly and there can be a range of interesting and sometimes tricky instances that are not easy to predict but are worthy to mention. I looked up the tools that you linked up in description, but many are not available even here in Sweden, and shipping from Germany could be impractical due to shipping costs.
@@alsad6699 I have a new video out that goes over some of the steps a little better. Shipping can be tricky, hopefully you can find a reasonable equivalent!
I have a Einscan Hx 3d scanner, use to use an Einscan SP and Einstar. They come with a proprietary software for scanning. But I so most of my design work in Fusion 360
I had to look up who that is, not sure I get the reference? Voice or how I look maybe?...I am not seeing it, I would like the subscriber count though lol
I tried using jb weld to make the part stronger but it was very hard to sand. I usually use a glazing putty body filler. They are a little thinner than regular body fillers and easy to finish.
@@EndMotive they are my hands free buttons for my steering wheel. I have a mitsubishi Lancer raillart 2012 the steering wheel has a set of hands free buttons on it. I want something like that for the right side 3 layer buttons case.
@@adamjensen6376 sounds cool, I am not sure how I would go about designing it without having the part in hand though. I will look around and see if I can't find something local to work with.
Honestly, it is fairly hard to figure out, and even harder explain lol. I have a newer video where I made an intake for my 350z and I use a lot of the same processes to design, I will try to make a stand alone to explain a bit further on something more similar!
My parts have held up great where I live. It reaches 120F/48C and all my ABS parts have done great, I have even printed an ABS intake tube that held up just fine under the hood... PLA however will melt fast.
