How to Make 3D Printed Tool Drawer Organizers 

In what way?

Thanks!

Thanks! I agree. Sometimes you just need to make something.

I learned on SolidWorks. It took me a little while to learn F360, and I still miss some of the advanced features of SolidWorks, like configurations, but Fusion 360 is a very capable piece of software.

Look for the gridfinity system by zack freedman

Printing is easy, modelling is very time consuming, measuring etc.. Im complete beginner in Fusion or any 3D modelling software, for me it takes hours to make basic stuff. Im still learning..

Oh, cool! I should probably go back and see if I need to add some more links. Thanks!

Thank you.

Yeah. I get a lot of questions about them. Glad you enjoyed it.

Oh, that's a good idea. I still haven't gotten to milling out a rack on the enclosure for my vise handle, dead blow hammer and air gun. I should be ashamed.

How is the g0704? I have the g0759.. Was thinking of getting a 704 for cnc

I'm very happy with it. The biggest limitation is probably the 2200RPM spindle. If it had a 10,000 RPM spindle, it would be amazing.

I enjoy it. Though it seems no matter what tools I have, I can always come up with projects that are just slightly out of reach. It's a sickness, I guess.

Cool. Have fun!

Thank you.

You're welcome.

Thank you very much. And thanks for checking out my little channel.

A 3D printer is a nice tool to have around the shop.

Thank you. Yeah, I finally just decided it was time. I dropped 80lbs, and my wife dropped 30.

There's a learning curve, for sure, and there are lots of ways to accomplish the same thing. The first few I designed were a lot harder until I figured out this workflow.

That's reasonable. I started with a set of ten collet holders, and I wanted them all in a row in the drawer, so the large racks were convenient.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Several people have suggested that. It's a good idea.

@@Clough42 check out Jeremy Schmidt here on youtube, he has a workbench with drawers that have a locking system on the trays at a set distance mounted to the underside, holds everything in place and easy to move on a grid.

Packing tape on the bottom.

@@Clough42 you could also make some recesses for magnets on by each corner, and glue in magnets with opposing polarities and allow them to snap together in a grid.

@@notsonominal that was my first thought.

It is. Things still move around.

You're welcome

You are welcome. I hope it helps.

I hadn't thought about that.

Several people have suggested that. Sounds like a good idea.

True. I just didn't, because I was lazy and I don't think I'll ever be making these parts longer. If I do, and if it bites me, I'll remember this comment. :)

Thanks

You're welcome!

Welcome!

Same here. found your channel and I enjoyed you workflow. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

youtube showed me this I am also just as happy

I am using Simplify3D and setting the initial layer height to optimize bed adhesion. I could modify the layer height to optimize the shape of the edge, but it wouldn't do much good if the part peels off the bed while printing. Everything is a trade-off. The small chamfer is one easy solution.

That's a good idea. The tabs could be short so they only engage at the bottom and could be broken off easily for the end pieces.

@@Clough42 yes I agree but I would use a part that connects both parts together low down that way your not removing anything and if you change your mind at a later date they can still be connected as the females hole will still be there. Also could put the same female on the front and back side if you want to connect a lot together to form the whole draw that way there isn't rows as they have all become one with the dog bones or what ever type of connection you use. Just an idea

@@Mottersmotters ahh... Yes. A dog-bone that fits into the bottom of both parts. That's a good solution to keep the parts easy to reorganize later.

The part is printed with 25% infill, so it's 3/4 air. With injection molding, shelling is really the only way to avoid making it solid. With 3D printing, there are other options.

If you have tools to organize, you have tools to make tools to organize your tools. :)

More like KMK but I get ya.

The interface is a Mackie Onyx Blackjack. It sounds great, but the WIndows drivers are weak.

Welcome!

I'm guessing that you may have figured this out by now, but if not (and it may help someone else) first, a 10mm socket will have an OD somewhere around 14 or 15mm, and second, since you're laying down material by oozing it out hot and letting it cool, there is almost always some dimensional change in the final product, and it will be different for different parts, printers, filament... typically I find that when I get outside dimensions spot on, inside dimensions tend to end up a hair undersize (on my last print it worked out to be .15-.2mm, so about a total of .35mm tight for a round hole) or vice versa. He specifically swelled his cutout .025" (so .050" counting both sides, that's a largish gap, about 1.3mm), but he also wanted a loose fit. Knowing how my printer prints PLA and how I'd want a socket holder to fit, I'd likely start at something like .5mm/.020".

Yeah, machines and tooling can be expensive. I started small and accumulated over a long period of time.

Like he said man. I thought the same shit 5 years ago... I never thought id have all the tools i have today. Just build little by little and be greatful for what you do have. 👍

Didn't Walt Kowalski (Clint Eastwood) share this theory in the movie "Gran Torino?"