This whole video is beautiful for many reasons, but I very truly, deeply, and sincerely appreciate that you actually showed the process of trying on the mock up on your body (not a dress form), addressing the fit issues by yourself (no helper pinning things for you), then transferring the changes to the pattern and doing the process over again with the second mock up. That was some of the most useful and relatable youtube sewing content I've seen. Thank you.
just wanted to mention how much I appreciate that you do men's fashion as well! so much historical fashion content is extremely rigidly feminine (it's not a problem, just nice to have some variety)
As a nonbinary female person with a love of historical menswear, this is basically my perfect youtube content, and it's so hard to find stuff like this. Thank you!
I was just about to comment pretty much exactly the same thing XD It is very difficult to find historic garments that I want to wear and will also fit me and make me feel comfy. This project is the most absolute perfect thing ever!
Thank you, thank you, for showing that iterative fitting process. I always feel like I must be incompetent when I see folks jump straight from drafting a pattern to cutting the final fabric.
I am in awe of the amount of preparation (fitting, re-adjusting, etc.) that is required to create a tailored vest even before cutting into that gorgeous fabric.
It's great seeing women wearing men's fashion!!!! For a few reasons I often I shop in the the men's department. Your little dance at the end is divine.
I'm slowly but surely making more of my own clothing and this vest is just Goals! The video is so fantastic cause we get all the steps, even the awkward ones.
You're incredible. You don't cut corners just going all the way and create a perfect creation. Wow, fantastic. Thanks for another great lesson for me ♥️
The section about the welted pocket alone is worth its weight in gold! Thanks, most patterns give modern welting instructions and they just look wrong when finished.
This is one of my favorite fashion periods - men's and women's. Who watches Miss Fisher's Murder Mysteries and just gobbles up everybody's clothing?? I don't know how accurate their costuming is, and they're more late vs early 20s, but I just can't get enough of it. And man, Dr Mac and all her fabulous menswear outfits! Those are the wonderful vibes I got from this video. Just love it.
I love your fashion sense and style, you're such a huge inspiration as I find myself drawn to more "vintage" fashion and trying to figure out my own style. Thanks for this in-depth video about the process! Waistcoats are among my favorite things to wear. I'll definitely have to make my own.
This vest looks amazing on you, it suits you perfectly ! Thank you for this video. I've nearly finished a vest myself. It's a contemporary pattern, with straps, but when I realised my interfacing wouldn't stick, I was like "that's ok, Nicole did it, so I can do it too" - just with a lot more time and really slowly. Doing this by hand, I learnt that pad stitching is really relaxing and satisfying. The regularity of the pattern was soothing. Now, I know I have two layers of tweed and one layer of linen canvas to go through to make buttonholes. Let's hope I don't mess them !
I love how the lapel sits on this waistcoat, it's just perfect, especially combined with the thoughtful tailoring, I imagine that the tailor's tape is to thank for how the lapel looks just nicely weighted and very crisp. Thank you for a very informative video. It really does look like a menswear waistcoat, the proportions are just right, you'd never know it wasn't if it weren't for the video telling us otherwise. I've been doing battle with a waistcoat that had some weird fit issues recently and couldn't figure out what was going on with the gaping at the neckline and lower portion of the armhole at the front, I had suspected it was something amiss with the pattern I made and this video really does prove that and what I actually need to adjust rather than what I thought I did. Back to the drawing board on that one to correct everything north of the side seam since I can understand now where the shape is wrong for my body. I really appreciate the time you take to explain to us how things are done and why.
I've been sewing professionally for theatre fir over ten years, and your channel is justjfurther proof that there's always something new to learn. Thanks so much for the detailed fitting content, and also thanks for showing me a completely different way to do a welt! I, feminine lady, love historical sewing, but like others on this thread, prefer a masculine flair to my style, so I too hope this comment guides the algorithm. Thanks again so much for this resource!
I love how you talk about fitting a garment "my body is a different shape than the pattern expects" is inclusive in gender presentation and body positive! Thank you!
Never has the Subscribe button been smashed so quickly. I took one look at this as a cravat-wearing AFAB enby and went absolutely hog wild. Thank you Nicole
this video is so helpful! I’m transmasculine and looking to get into historical dress, so it’s really reassuring to see men’s clothing patterns adapted to an AFAB body shape. gives me courage to make my own stuff!
It's amazing how much I learn by simply watching you work through the process. Adjusting the toile while it is on your own body and not a mannequin isn't easy, but you sure do make it look like it is! Thank you for not adding superfluous music over the lovely thread-thru-fabric sounds (ASMR gold). And thank you for explaining your process without being condescending.
This is really fascinating! I'm thinking of trying to make some masculine historical fashions myself at some point in the near future (I've only made historical feminine garments) so this is a super helpful video.
Thank you so much for making this. It is so clear and informative. I want to make exactly this shape of waistcoat and was not sure how I would find a vaguely suitable pattern, let alone how I could alter it to fit myself (I don't know the proper sewing terms to search with) but your video is exactly what I need! The video is also lovely and relaxing to watch. I thought I would skip through to see the end but I watched the whole thing as it was just so pleasant. Also you look incredible in the finished garment, and the outfits you have made with it.
I suppose most people are not shaped like the "ideal" for any period, but I am particularly short and thick. My waist is certainly a few inches bigger than it ought to be, but I am also incredibly barrel chested. With narrow shoulders and short arms but a thick chest, the only clothing that really fits are tailored garments. While I lived in Kenya, I found a really good tailor at an affordable price, but off-the-rack vests here in the US are too long and narrow for me. This video has given me courage to take one of the store-bought vests apart to see if I can let it out a bit.
Thank you so much for this!!! I am a butch lesbian that loves historical fashioning and gowns I just dont .... want to wear them and want to make things I can actually wear :) Instantly subscribed thank you so so much
aaaaahh im so glad you covered welt pockets!!!! i adore that style so ive tried to find guides on how to sew them but every guide ive found instructs use of fuseable interfacing which i dont like. im glad to see it can be done with linen canvas instead!!!
GOALS!!! thank you for this great video :) I wanna make myself a vest like that but I just started sewing recently. can`t wait to accumulate all the skills be able to do this
First time here, and loved the video, I'm a very curvy gay male and making my own regency style suit which mirrors this men's wear 1920 American styles, and you helping me to figure out measurements for curves but masculine is what's needed for this very niche design, and anyone else loving how us LGBTQIA is bringing back homemade, fancy wear
I want to share that one of the draftings I am finding in the progressive tailor is for a"Calumet reefer and lounge sack" . Amazing. I miss my great grandmother 💕 she would probably have an awesome story to accompany the explanation....
My butch partners thank you for this video, and me too! ; ) It's time for me to branch out to the scary world of men's tailoring (aaah!) for their AFAB bodies. This was such a helpful video. I even picked up a number of fitting/dart tips that extend across the gender spectrum for all clothes for any of us with chest sizes of note.
It's facinating to see that process, me coming from an industrial sewing school, where we did all the work by machine. Like.. No handsewing allowed aha. The patterning and fitting test are quite the same thought (With "modern" explinations and technics.)
Oh I finally placed where I thought I've seen this fabric before! In LOTR Frodo had a jacket with the same type of fabric. I was rewatching it and it clicked like oh I've seen that before.
Hi! I'm a male, very fascinated by the fashions of the early 1920s too! Might I ask where can I find historical fabrics and tailoring manuals? I'm so glad to see this series!
Want to make one for myself maybe my husband so glad someone making that's supposed to me for men for women. I love vest, suspenders, and lots of men's clothing. So excited to make
Im using a 1905 drafting pattern for a vest for a cosplay because modern mens patterns are way too big for me (I am a very petit man) and I had already bought the book. Unfortunately there's no construction instructions so this video has been very helpful for me :)) thank you :))
i dont mean this in any cruel way, but with every video i am more convinced that nicole just cannot be straight, the ammount of incredible iconic looks and ideas is just too amazing and im loving it
As a non binary afab person who’s spent months trying to find info on how to adjust menswear (specifically vests and waistcoats) you have no idea how much this video means 💜
did I just buy the Progressive Tailor leather bound version because I am way to intrigued to have a look at these construction manuals and am a sucker for propper tailored pants for men? ... Maybe ...
I honestly couldn't see what you were doing on the mockup against your white shirt. Perhaps take that into account in the future- make sure your mockup and clothing contrast enough to see what's happening.
Hi You motivated me to try this too…. I want to try a No Collar Waistcoat from The Progressive Tailor Vol. 27, 1937, and hit a snag right at the start… One of the measurements is “Opening”. (This is on your video too)…..What is the “opening”? It looks like it might have something to do with the arm. As a beginner, I hope I’m not getting myself into trouble….