Hi Great video! was wondering my wife and I recently picked up a large white pine the butt was around 38 inches presently it has no cracks I plan to do what you did I painted the ends to try to minimize cracking in your opinion do you think maybe I should apply the epoxy now and leave the bottom end open to dry as it was cut this winter. I was going to put it in a closed box with air flow for a couple years what is your thoughts on it?
There is another slab from the tree trunk i an going back and get another 4 inches of it which will bring it to the ground. My wife thinks we could get some money for it!
Let it dry till the humidity is 7%. They sell moisture meters on Amazon. If you bring it indoors it should be dry in 12 months. When dry, flatten with router sled if you can. Then sand. Before you put the epoxy apply one coat of sanding sealer. The sanding sealer should be dry in less than one hour. IMMEDIATELY after its dry, flip the slab and apply sanding sealer on the other side. If you wait 8 hours, your slab will have warp significantly even if the wood is dry to 7%. Then flip the slab back and forth until you have 4 coats of sanding sealer on EACH side. The next day you can flood it with epoxy on your favourite side. You may have to apply 2 coats of epoxy. If you don't apply sanding sealer before the epoxy, the epoxy will keep getting air bubbles till it hardens. I'm talking from experience. I had to redo my table .. reflaten on router table etc. The sanding sealer is necessary BEFORE epoxy only because it is end grain. Good luck.
This table arrived well packaged and on time. ru-vid.comUgkxn94T8Mu1iMnsLCMNOI9srXSsLkI4JXKW Like another reviewer advised, I pulled everything out and made sure everything was included (everything was!). I built it alone and it took me about an hour. The color is great and for the price the lift part works well. As others have mentioned, it’s not the smoothest opening/closing, but it works. The screws do show, but I plan to order white sticker covers if that bothers us too much. Really happy with this table! UPDATE: it’s been over a year since we got this coffee table and we still love it! It gets HEAVY use as our dining table, foot rest, and school desk. Over time, the opening and closing mechanism has gotten smoother. I added a new photo with the white screw cover stickers. They blend in perfectly and make it look a little cleaner. 100% recommend!!!
If he used deep black epoxy to fill the gap and then clear epoxy for the finish work would have brought all the wood grain much more exposed and would have been a very special one. Having said that, this is also beautiful.
As a helpful tip, I’ve done a lot of experimenting with polyurethane, and I’ve found that doing a top flood coat of poly looks just as good as a $50 flood coat of epoxy, for a fraction of the price. It also helps if you thin it out a bit.
I made a cedar bench last year as i dabbled in my first piece of outdoor furniture while also using epoxy. I found out real quick how porous wood can be. I rushed to seal cracks that i didnt know existed. That epoxy can be a nightmare but at the same time it produces beautiful results. Im currently drying a white oak burl i had slabbed out. I hope it produces a beautiful product like your table. It looks really good.
Turned out great! I love how you went through the highs and lows of trying to make it work. I'm doing the same over here in California. Trial and error. You gave me a rally good heads up with a Cypress Pine stump that I don"t know what to do with. I'm considering staining first,...a natural stain ,...then the shiny plastic hard stuff.
I like the way you did the legs, and the epoxy job after it was all done. I did something similar with a big slab of pine, so I know how challenging it can be to get a good finish on that kind of grain. Great job!
i was mesmerized by this whole video, such skill you have to know how to do all that! and the beauty of the wood! i loved it both ways, natural oiled and with the epoxy. buy first hand i'm sure you made wisest decision with the epoxy in the end. How lovely to have something in your home that you have worked so hard on. Well done . From Australia.
Good looking table I’m working on my outdoor one right now I like the legs you put on and definitely the epoxy much better look ok 👌🏼🔥🤠🔥Camping Russ out
Came out nicely. I plan to do two similar tops today. I still haven't figured out my legs. I have several Cedar rounds, and a pile of Cedar limbs. Would like to use cedar I'm going to give it a try. Thanks for your time
Beautiful work. That's a lot of work to be summed up in a few minutes. For small end grain projects I started scraping them with a wood scraper after each thin coat of epoxy until all micro grooves were filled. Top off with a couple coats of poly. Scraping is very tedious, but somehow brings out incredible detail.
For epoxy resin, first you need to do 2 coats sealer on the surface and then After first coat clear epoxy must be sanding nicely and when's dry then go for final coat .
get them glasses of that lovely piece of art!!!!!!! (lol) - okay so you spent a bit of extra money on it when it did not need it, but hey the finished product - WOW - PERFECT!!!! - i enjoyed everything about this video and was gobsmacked at the finish of the table.
Yea thats one thing im finding out about woodworking and other stuff, even experts have to do things over again. It's more about your ability to resolve problems and fix things than getting it all right perfectly the first time you do it
WHERE'S THE "BEAUTY"-the whole slab thing is getting to be BS. It started 20+ years ago with really nice slabs with minimal defects. Now anything vaguely reminiscent of "slab" is embraced, fill it with clear epoxy and sell it for mucho bucks-and 95% of it is just crappy wood.
Gilbert, You have another heirloom piece of furniture there. Some ideas work and some fail, but in the end, I think the final coat of epoxy was the icing on the cake. Congratulations to you and High Five.
In air drying lumber, because the end grain dries faster, cracks is promoted. That is why they use wax on the end-grain, to lessen the problem. Relief Cuts on the back side (Bottom) may also be considered, unseen, of course. I would like to see molten copper poured into the cracks, sanded & finished with Tung Oil. ??? Hint, hint. LOL
I think it turned out fantastic but I'm not sure that I'm a big fan of the super glossy look, I like a satin wood finish, do they make an epoxy that dries satin? Another thing I'm wondering about is why do we use epoxy for this? Wouldn't a different finish like pouring a min wax or other finish on like that achieve basically the same thing except less plasticky looking like you were talking about?
If you did a undercoat of sealing hardening oil like lindseed oil your varnish probably would have worked. Varnish is cheaper & looks best. I’m using Yacht Varnish so that my tables are weather and sun proof.
To fill the cracks first maybe pour the epoxy in them first to fill them? Then add the rest to the entire area. It makes more sense and less waste? Just my unexperienced two cents worth I like the video very informative Greetings from LA
A great furniture polish is Marveer I think the Kiwi's make it. I believe it now comes in a spray ... I've only used it out of a bottle .. it really is the duck's nuts.
I have a table that I paid for, but some of the wood is cracking now and loose pieces falling off the top. I want to sand it down and use epoxy. Would I need to sand the sides also? Can I just sand top......and epoxy top?
Hi thanks for the video. Is the tape easy yo take of, as the epoxy gets stiff? I mean you kindda use the tape as a mold, was you wondering of easy it is to get off. I see alot of potential there
What happens if the piece of wood has a massive crack from the side to the middle? is there any way to close it? And still maintain their shape minus the crack of course
Stunning. I love the way you did the legs as they seem to follow the angle of the table. Thanks for posting, I have a couple of pieces that I want to use for the same type of table and I’ve been wondering about what to do for the legs. Your idea is much better than what I’ve been considering. Thanks again
WOW! That is just beautiful! In love with this table! Can't wait until my shop is done so I can give this a go! Inspiring, for sure! God Bless my talented friend!
I absolutely love it. Nice job. You fussed with it a bit but you got what you wanted. There are cheaper cost epoxies that will do the same job. $150 sounds s bit expensive.
For a piece of log that size how long to dry?? I just found a fresh cut one! Looks like the same size! From what I read it’s 1-2 years...? Sound about right? Thanks !
@@frenchriversprings there is a special resin for slabs it is very liquid Have you tried to make tables like this with its use? and drying. Isn't it more logical to use forced drying to speed up the process, since 3 years wait for it to dry a little long))
Wish you could show how you made the table top cuts. I have a couple of stumps in my backyard which I'm going to make into table, but how do I cut them? Lumber yard? Chain saw? Your router table is awesome!
That first coat of epoxy basically you call it a stabilizer if you'd left the stain on and then epoxy over it would you still have the dimples I don't know that might make an interesting pattern very beautiful work very wonderful kudos to you
Very nice work coating can be tricky epoxy has no UV protection so we must keep it out of direct sunlight or it will start going chalky the trick to this is two component urethane fully UV protectant chemical resistant will protect the epoxy from shocking and yellowing . Love the attention to detail even the custom hand homemade hammer was good work.
You mentioned giving up. Why? The wood is what it is. It's beautiful a s it is and no one is going to conquer it. It's a beautiful piece of wood and you are to be commended.
