Genius!! I just received my $16 gear extractor yesterday. I'm not handy with working with metal ,but found a local machine shop that can cut the U groves. Was about to buy $149 extractor from Golf Works, but you saved me tons THANKS!!!!!
Followed your process and 15 minutes after starting pulled the first shaft which came off within 20 seconds of applying heat. Shaft came out perfect with no damage and was ready for a new adapter with a minute or two of hand sanding
I purchased the break spreader and made the tool as he stated. It worked great. I did not have any problems removing the head off of a graphite shaft. I used a propane torch to heat the hosel and started turning the shaft. What I did find is after you put the heat on the hosel let it sit for about 30 seconds before you start to remove the head. Seemed to work better. I removed 8 heads without any damage to the shaft
A couple tips. Step 1 should be heating up the ferrule for about 15 seconds, and use a scraper or razor blade to cut it out. Now the connection between the made plates, and the club head are much more tight, direct and accurate. Step 2, The heat source should never stop moving. When you keep the flame pointed at 1 area of the club, especially on graphite, that's when the melting, chipping and cracking happens. The design and concept is nice and will work, but eventually, if you are pulling a ton of shafts, you'll need a way to mount all pieces of the jig permanently. Good job Kley Golf!!
I used this to pull 7 heads from graphite shafts from my ping g400 irons. I used a black and decker heat gun set to high for about 60 seconds. Worked perfectly.
Great little video. I always enjoy the DIY route to problem solving. Just a suggestion, but instead of using a gear puller, you might wanta try using a woodworking pipe clamp. I think it would give you a little better leverage, plus with a little creativity, you can find a way to mount it solid so you don't feel like you need 4 hands.
The sliding ‘knob’ seems to get in my way imo more than helps. I took mine off (easy with bench grinder) and am going to try without. The socket can hook up to my wrench and/or small battery operated wrench (being sure not to go too fast). But also using an extension allows me to set it inside the bench vice below the shaft..and use it to aid in balance….which allows me to use one hand to apply heat and other hand to turn wrench (or tap/ pulse).
Add to my 3d wish list a small attachment that will fit over the metal plate to provide additional bearing surface and maybe one for inside to make a nice non-marring surface. Seems it would be fairly simple to design…
If I can add a few suggestions, I use a smaller butane torch than can pinpoint heat instead of using a plumbing wide flame propane torch. I've reshafted lots of clubs for years using a electric heat gun on low heat for a long time to separate some iron heads, it won't discolor stainless steel and chrome, otherwise you have to use some anti-bluing product to make the head more attractive.
Flip the spreader 180 degrees from how you are using it. Drill hole and mount to the vise with c clamp or bolts. You get the idea though because you’re handy.
I would have used rat tail files for the deburring. Then a conical Emory sander on the Dremel for step 2. Then some fine hand sanding to polish the plates.
