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in Japanese swords the hamon needs a jigane that will support the shape desired..a small grain pattern hada to support a suguha hamon and a - larger itami or mokume hada for choji midari gunome exct. i bet its valuable information for the serious hamon enthusiast..lol and if you have a good eye for heat you can make a choji hamon without clay!..and if you get the heat soak just right utsuri may be present....
Nicely done. I'm trying for a hamon on the knife I'm making at the moment. Quench day tomorrow. I was so tempted to try a water quench, but remembered what happened last time, when I got the unfortunate 'ping' sound LOL.
@@nickwoo2 Thanks. I've got enough steel to start again if the worst happens and as it's a stock removal knife not forged, I will only have wasted about half an hour or so. I've left a fairly thick edge and as long as I stick with an oil quench I really don't expect to have any problems! Now that I've said all that, it'll probably explode when I do the quench LOL.
@@nickwoo2 I took a chance, and decided to go for an interrupted water quench. Very quick dip in water, followed immediately by oil. I didn't hear any nasty 'Ting / Ping' sounds, a file skates, and there isn't any warping. It's in the tempering oven now, but all the signs are good!
12:00 good explanation on the quenching oil. I do many tools for myself and the occasional blade, axe, sword, knife, glaive etc but always just stuck to motor oil, cooking oil and water quenches. My blacksmithing never really required so much finesse as in fine blade making. Thanks for introducing me to a new quench (14 years as a decorative blacksmith).
first and foremost- beautiful knife! second: just a note on using oil vs water for quenching- most different steels have a manufacturer recommendation on oil or water quenching. for example: 1095 is meant to be oil hardened where as W2 is a water hardening steel.
1095 will not quench fast enough in any oil other than parks that I have found and I have had parks fail in fully quenching a 1095 blade fast enough several times.
thats understandable- I've never worked with 1095- but if you haven't heard of Walter Sorrels-(he has some great videos on youtube!) he uses canola oil to quench 1095.
Problem with your Hamon is the hardened steel should be light colored and the softer metal dark. It needs proper polishing to enhance the hamon properly.
Just so other people know, you might not want to put deep scratches in the blade to mark a line before doing Yaki Ire, a scratch can turn into a crack when quenching, it's just adding to the amount of problems that can happen during clay hardening. It can waste time and steel which you don't want to be doing on a regular basis if you plan on making a profit from knife making. Good video though.
Definitely a stupid question... but are there any health drawbacks from using a blade with acid oxide on it? Is ferric chloride generally safe to us on knives to then eat stuff with?
Not be critical BUT, after polishing to 1500 grit you use and eraser and/or the GoJo, BOTH of which have abrasives in them so you scratch your 1500 grit mirror finish all to hell! Does that make sense to you? It doesn't, to me! Just re sand with 1000 and 1500 to get the oxides off and give you the original [polish instead of scratching a beautifully polished blade! Also, Satanite is pretty expensive and has to be ordered, in most areas as it isn't something readily available. Rutland's Furnace cement is far more available and seems to be what most people are using, now, so that may be something that those of us on a small budget may want to try FIRST! The hamons I've seen done with the Rutland's are just as good/dramatic. THANKS for the video and the information as most of it was very useful!
Now a days I only go up to 600 grit for most of my hamons. Rutland is a good Choice too most of my friends use that but I have a lot of satanite from making forges so I use that. I have also heard of people just using clay and charcoal mixes so if it works go for it.
acid will stain and cause what's known as a patina. which most regard as a good thing because it's a good oxide that will protect the blade from rusting from water.
+LE-Handmade knives well, that depends on the acid. onion tends to turn blue, purple and red. some patinas are very dull and grey ( I think that's a forced patina with vinegar), blood or red meat also makes a nice patina that's very blue and purple. nice a vibrant. but yes, the simple answer is blueish
Depending on the steel you can. Vegetable oil is slower than water or parks. What you can do is a 2 or 3 second quench in hot water to beat the curve and then into veg oil to prevent cracking
@@ddayinvader6487 yeah w2 needs a faster quench as far as I know. I would try to get a hamon on a scrap piece and go from there. If you heat the oil up a bit and agitate as you quench I think you should get one. Make sure to wear gloves because the oil will probably catch fire though.
I was making a joke about the repetitive dog bark on the first track, but then later there was actually a real dog. It was much less annoying though. :-) Great vid BTW. I do some metalwork but never knife-making or heat treatment. However people like you make me want to do something in this area. It's the way that you can turn what is inherently manufacture (you are making a tool) into craft (a pretty tool) and then further to pure art that is fascinating.
