How to make a mortar shower pan with a pre slope - DG 

Thanks for watching. DG

Thank you and thanks for commenting - DG

You're welcome. Thanks for watching. DG

Thanks for watching. DG

I don't redguard. If the PVC membrane is installed properly with the drain properly installed and there are no penetrations below the level of the curb, it should last. An important part also is the walls need to be installed properly: Tile the floor first (the cement board on the walls should not go all the way down to the floor tile). The wall tile should overlap the floor tile. Use a moisture barrier under the cement board on the walls. Thanks for watching. DG

It's best to have the floor tile to go all the way to the membrane so that water will have one less seam to go down through and if the wall board goes down below the floor tile, water will wick up into the wall resulting in the wall grout staying wet longer and higher chance that mildew will grow. Thanks for watching. DG

I made a one piece curb by stacking three 2x4's to make a form then put 2 layers of the pvc membrane material over the 2x4's then put 2 strips of mesh fiber tape the length of the 2x4's along the two top corners. Then mix up some thinset and spread it on the tape. Then spread thinset on cement board pieces (3 pieces cut to size) and press against the form and screw them on to hold in place. then put 2 more strips of mesh tape on the length of the cement board corners and spread thinset over the mesh tape. Then let dry over night. Then take the screws out and carefully remove the curb off of the form. then you can slide this over your shower curb and screw it down from the top (use silicone under the areas where the screws are). Thanks for watching. DG

Gracias por mirar, DG

Thanks, DG

The consistency needs to be just wet enough so that it will stick together when you pack it into a ball. This allows it to be packed and shaped. The cement doesn't need very much water to be activated. Thanks for watching. DG

No, you don't want the wall backer board or the wall tile below the level of floor tile. The floor should be tiled first then put the backer board on the walls. The backer board should not touch the floor. Fill the small gap between the floor tile and the wall backer board with thin set. This reduces the water that wicks up the wall behind the tile. Thanks for watching. DG

On a concrete slab it doesn't need to be as thick. Something like 1 1/2" thick for the preslope and 1" thick for the mortar. I wouldn't have the curb more than about 4" tall because it's harder to step over. DG

Thanks for watching. DG

I'm in the US and got it at Home Depot. The manufacturer is Oatey. They make it in both ABS or PVC. Thanks for watching. DG www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Round-Black-ABS-Shower-Drain-with-4-3-16-in-Square-Screw-In-Chrome-Drain-Cover-423212/305248420

@@deegee8032 Thank you very much. Unfortunately i can't access their website, i don't know why but when i try to open their website it appears a message showing "Access Denied". I will search for the item brand. Thanks

If your membrane or tar barrier is not sloped and your primary barrier (Red guard) is ever compromised and you start getting water into your mortar bed then you will have standing water in your mortar and it will never dry out. If your bottom barrier is on a sloped surface, the water will migrate out fairly quickly and it will begin to dry much faster. I'm not a fan of tiling on top of Red Guard. Thanks for watching. DG

Not sure if you're asking about the consistency or the thickness (depth). I used a trowel with gaps that were 1/4" wide and 3/8" high. The thinset should be just thick enough to not flatten at all when you pull it up to a peak. Thanks for watching, DG

Not really sure what you're asking. I lay everything out and dry fit everything first. I glue the flange then disconnect it at the trap. Then I thinset the cement board down and then reassemble the flange to the trap and screw the flange to the cement board (make sure to use pilot holes through the cement board). Let me know if this doesn't answer your question. Thanks for watching. DG

I would need more information to be able to tell you exactly what to do. If you are talking about a standard 5 ft. alcove style tub, placed right next to the shower, then you would need to have some kind of a short pony wall right up against that side of the tub. Also, make sure you completely cover the framing of the wall with waterproof barrier. Thanks for watching. DG

@@deegee8032 Hi thank you very much for your reply. I would like to put a tub (standard) against the wall (3walls) and the a shower along side it 2'X5' so one side of the shower will be a curb with a glass wall and the other a tub. So I wasnt sure on how to seal the liner against the tub wall

Add just enough water so that it will clump together and stick when you pack it like a snowball but will crumble when you drop it. It shouldn't have a wet look or be shiney. Thanks for watching. DG

Yes. This decreases the time that it takes for the water that seeps through the mortar to pass through the weep holes. The result is that it will dry faster. Thanks for watching. DG

I didn't. One of the reasons I use cement board there is to create a level surface to work from you could screw to board down if you wanted. Thanks for watching. DG

The guides around the perimeter give a hard, even surface that you can trowel along that is at the height you want. It slopes toward the drain. Regarding the floor tile and the wall backer board. The wall backer board should not go down below the floor tile. It's best to do the floor first and then do the walls. The two main points are : don't have the backer board below the floor tile and the wall tile should overlap the floor tile. Thanks for watching. DG

Portland cement mixed with sand. DG

@@deegee8032 Thank you

It was the most difficult tear out I've ever done. The mortar and tile was over 2" thick and it was fully enclosed, including the ceiling. It could have doubled as a bomb shelter. Thanks for watching. DG

@@deegee8032 I tore out one or two like that a year or two ago. They don't make'em like that anymore.

I didn't add any water. The final troweling causes a liquefaction effect that brings the moisture to the surface. Thanks for watching. DG

No. I do it for two reasons; it adds a little more strength to the mortar (if wasn't going to use it I would make the mortar bed thicker), and I can make the surface I'm starting with perfectly level. Thanks for watching. DG

@@deegee8032 I agree,u did a good job.I like to see more of your work.Thanks for sharing your experience.

You are mistaken. The silicone was applied underneath the moisture barrier. The weep holes are notches on the underside of the drain piece that is on top of the barrier that go from the outside radius to the center (toward the drain). The screw holes are not weep holes and should be siliconed. Thanks for watching. DG

Thanks for watching and commenting. DG

A shower with a correctly made pre slope pan will shed any water that gets through, and while it is wet, it is able to dry because there isn't any standing water. The thing that makes mortar deteriorate is when you don't have a pre slope, water pools on the liner on the low side so it will never dry out. The thing that really compounds the problem is if the shower floor was tiled after the walls. When this is the case you have a grout line around the entire perimeter and at some point there will be a hairline separation between the grout and the wall tile and water will run straight down to the liner. The floor should be tiled first, that way the wall tile hangs over the floor tile and it sheds water much better. Also, If you put a sealer on it and water is able to get though somewhere, it will never dry out because the water is trapped between the liner and the sealer. Thanks for watching. DG

@@deegee8032 interesting

That explains why you're here. Thanks for watching. DG

@@deegee8032 😂😂😂😂😂😂👌

In case you didn't pay attention to the video. The preslope is first. The membrane is next. The mortar bed goes on top, then the tile. Water does seep through the tile and mortar bed. The sloped membrane channels that water into the drain. It's just physics. DG

If you don't give any specifics then you're just an trolling crackpot. DG