How To Make a PERFECT INLAY with a CNC Router, Easy CNC Router Projects 

I hope you enjoyed this Inlay video tutorial. If you are interested in the Longmill CNC router, please use this affiliate link. Thank you in advance: sienci.com/product/longmill-idc-woodcraft/?ref=IDCWoodcraft

I'm used to larger, corded routers ru-vid.comUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z so this was a different experience for me. Basically, this is an incredibly sweet machine, fits well in the hand, etc. It has slightly less power than I'm used to, but that's understandable. Maneuvering freehand takes some practice. These days, it's especially nice to be able to avoid power cords. This is above the level of a hobbyist but below a pro level.

Garrett, I came upon you're site by accident, I'm a woodworker and a woodturner. I watched you're very informative video on the feather. A suggestion a would make is instead of using the blue tape and ca glue try using woodturners double faced tape instead. It is thin and very very strong. Also, try using a narrow slot insert on the table saw along with using feather boards when cutting the walnut. Great video and maybe I'll be getting into CNC.

Most informative video I've seen on inlays. Thank you for taking the time to teach.

Get out your notebook boys and girls. It's time for school. Outstanding video! I was fascinated with the Broinwood inlayed cutting board videos long before I got my CNC and it's something I wanted to try. This video put it all together. Everything you need to know start to finish. Can't say enough. Thanks Garrett.

1) If you use the blue tape hold down on a smooth table surface and the workpiece. Apply the CA (super glue) to the back of the tape on the workpiece and the Accelerator on the back of the tape on the table surface. This gives you an extra few seconds for positioning before the accelerator "kicks off" the CA. And, any bleed-through of the CA will be on the back of the work piece (sand it off) rather than your machine table surface. 2) If you are going to use a table saw (as Garrett shows in this Video) PLEASE use a "zero clearance insert" for the throat of the saw. This will keep the scrap from dropping into the saw. 3) Buy a push-stick or carve yourself one to keep all of your fingers the same number and length. I have been woodworking for 40 years and I have too many acquaintances called "3-finger Joe."

March 2022: What a fantastic video. One of the best i've seen. Congratulations on done such an outstanding job.

I can not wait to put the MK2 to work giving inlays a try Thank You for all the great info you provide and the tools to make it happen. Enjoy your Memorial Day weekend

Just watched the intro. Won't have time to watch this until this weekend. Really looking forward to it. The inlay with the walnut grain running opposite to the oak grain looks really nice.

Thanks Garrett, you make it seem a lot less intimidating for a first timer. Great final product. Cheers

Nice and clear process. The step-by-step "recipe" is a great approach to get a clean inlay. Two hints. First, when you're grabbing the bitmap you're going to use as your pattern, instead of using the snipping tool, right-click the mouse and pick "save image as". That will save the bitmap to wherever you direct it on your PC. Or, click the image and it wall take you to the source of the image. That page will often have download links available and generally a higher resolution than you'll pick up off a "snip". You also will get just the image without any extraneous icons from the Google image search. If there's no direct download button, you can use the right-click technique to save the image. While you're at it, if the image had that checkerboard pattern you noted as making it hard to use, you'll see in the save image as or the click and download, that the checkerboard will go away. That's because the gray checkerboard is usually indicating a transparent background (vs a sold white background). That will expand the options available for you in terms of images out there - you don't need to skip the ones with the transparent background that the snipping tool will include the checkerboard. The second tip is for using the CA glue/tape technique for holding the material to the spoil board. Rather than spray the accelerator on the tape you've run the CA glue beads on, spray the tape on the back of the material. The accelerator won't start working until you place the material so you've got more time to work than spraying the glue which starts the setup process immediately. Spraying the tape on the material gives you extra time because accelerator only starts working when it is in contact with the CA glue. This is also where the grid lines you've engraved on the spoil board will help get the material lined up and not have to worry about trying to adjust the position once you hit the glue.

Excellent, this video should be the go to for all makers looking to do inlays. Love the way you show the process from start to finish. Thank you.

Hi Garrett, today i tryed to make the feather inlay and was surprised with the result. I sent you a picture of the result. Regards and thanks verry much for the tips.

Well done! Going to require a project inlay with my high school students using your method. We usually do laser inlays, but that always leaves a small charcoalized edge/kerf and they are not perfect. Our high school wood shop class has a 4' x 8' ShopSabre CNC with a 10 tool ATC, so no knuckle busting. Thank you for thank time to make this wonderful video. You will be inspiring many shop students for years to come.

Thanks for a really detailed and working tutorial! Using this technique, I - a beginner user of a CNC router - could make a technically great inlay on the first try. The video pace could be quicker though, I had to scroll through it quite a bit to find relevant information.

Thanks for the extremely thorough video! Appreciate all the work you've done here.

Love watching your video's Garrett, very informative for a newbie like me.

I’m really looking forward to doing my first inlay. Excellent video!!

I liked your tip of using the offset tool reduce the amount of machining for the male part. I use the blue painters tape and CA glue trick for a lot of my projects. It has always worked great for me.

Terrific video. I actually think I can this as a newbie to CNC. One minor suggestion - I would resaw the walnut on the bandsaw, much safer. I assume that if you have spent the bucks on a CNC machine, you would have a bandsaw. 😀

Fabulous! I do like to watch and learn, while you show and tell.

Outstanding tutorial

Garrett, when using the glue & tape method you do not spray the accelerator onto the glue. It should be sprayed on the opposite side, as in the piece you are attaching.

Great Video

Hello Garret! I have used your vcarve v bit inlay method and it works beautifully, thank you for that. I am working on a project that needs to have the inlay go much deeper, 1/2” actually. I am wondering what I would set my parameters to (flat depth/start depth) for the male and female. To be honest I’m still a little confused about how your formula works, but it works great, and I would appreciate it very much for some info on how to get a deeper inlay. Thank you!

used your formula and it works well. Any way to change the numbers to make the inlay thicker? I had trouble with sanding through the plug on a problem cutting board. If the inlay were thicker and deeper you wouldn't have to be so careful with the finishing.

Great video on creating inlays. I was very impressed. I can't wait to start.

Awesome. Now I have made my mind up to get one.

Garrett, I am having a problem with Vinlays and don't know why. Is there a way to send you a photo to show the problem? Peter

Great tutorial...thanks for creating/sharing it! I do have a question and/or a suggestion: Rather than having to manually cut out the male component after the vcarve and pocket tool paths are complete, why not just add a tool path to have the CNC cut it out for you? e.g.: create/add a second “feather” offset vector the same size (or slightly smaller than the first one) and assign a tool path to it that will cut the part out at the very end.

Garrett, can inlays be used in glued up blocks such as bread or charcuterie boards?

Great job

Hi Gareth, as usual, your description of this process was outstanding. I did try it and for the most part it worked as intended. My attempt included lettering with scrolls above and below. On final surfacing, letters were perfect, but parts of the scroll were too shallow and faded out. Would you recommend a deeper carve while maintaining the distance between the male and female components?

Love the video. What is Carveco used for? I see it is subscription based. Is it to do the last cleaning pass with the waste board bit?

Hi Garret! Love your videos, very helpful and informative. I don’t know if this has been asked because I really didn’t want to go back and look at 800+ comments. Will these numbers work with any vbit like a 15 degree vbit?? Thanks.

Excelente trabalho...

Many thanks for the detailed description. Can analogous steps be scaled down (a lot) to use for shell inlays--material that might only be 0.04-0.06 inch thick?

Great tutorial!! Best I've seen. If you wanted a deeper inlay would you just double the numbers in the start depths, etc?

Love this video. You explain everything so well. I cant wait to give it a go. Just need a spoiler bit :) HAPPY LATE BIRTHDAY

Is the Genmitsu 3018-Prover powerful enough to do this inlay? It is coming in the mail in a couple of days. I am very interested in making these inlays.

i scrolled all the way to the bottom of the comments and there is no description... where is this description you speak of containing all the good files? Did youtube remove the description part?

Would be better to use a bottom cleaning bit on your CNC and carve the surface flat and not even use a saw nor the a surfacing bit. Much safer and a cleaner surface than the surfacing bit, and all things considered, won't take much more, if any more, time. Overall, great information. Thanks.

Very well made and shared a lot of good information. I have done a few inlays and I know there are many different settings that people put out there. Have you done any really fine detail inlays? Great job! What speed do you run the router at?

Like your video. But I have a question. Instead of one vector as you have in your leaf. What if I have many closed vectors. How will it work for male piece. Female piece will be no issue. Thanks

How can I avoid chip out on the smaller pieces ?

snipping tool shortcut for windows users: SHIFT+windows key+s

What would the # be if your work wilt 75 wood thickness ..09, .02cut though the project

well done 👍🪶🦜

Outstanding instructional video. Thank you. I am A CNC Machinist of 40 years experience. I plan on doing this type of Fine Wood Working as A Retirement income source. Thank you

I was a CNC lathe operator for 20 years and I was so excited to see the technology being made affordable. And for wood carving platforms I knew people would use them to make amazing projects.

An excellent tutorial, I learned so much from this session. I am a retired CNC machinist for about 12 yrs now working on Graphite material, thinking pretty seriously about getting back into it now that I've watch your videos several times and seeing the cost factors are reasonable and the tech sure looks a lot easier now and it would let this older man have fun again. Keep up the good work.

I have watched your American Flag Video as well. You are an amazing instructor. I have a note book full of notes and have started making signs at the local wood school (Sam Beaufort) in Adrian Michigan. I plan on getting your starter set of bits just so I have my own. Thanks for doing what you do. Retired CMS John Clark USAF

Best video you have ever made Garrett. Really well done, thoughtful and easy to follow. Fantastic final result!

I actually feel confident that I could make an inlay after watching this video! Now, I just need a CNC router :)

What an amazing video ! One of the most clear CNC instructional videos out there. Fantastic instructor! Thanks for creating and sharing with others.

Hey Garrett, Project looks great, but, why not use the "Create Inlay Toolpath" in Vectric?

Hi Garrett, Amazing video I didn't realize how easy it was to do inlays. This would have to be the best video I have seen online and your teaching skills are at another level. Well done mate. I will be adding you to my favorites list of RU-vidrs to watch.

Garrett, absolutely love you videos, this one is off the charts. A very thorough and detailed video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise. I bought a CNC last year but haven't used yet, just trying to gain as much knowledge as I can before starting to use. With this detailed tutorial and template you're sharing, this may be my first project, can’t wait. Thanks again.

Thank You!!! ( of course I know you did this just for me). It is amazing the amount of time and effort you put into these vids! I hope everyone will subscribe, after watching this! I love that you keep showing us little tricks that most vids don’t show. Keep up the GREAT work!

If you are planning on using the vector on a project you are selling, then you really should be looking for royalty free vectors or at least reaching out to the creator to make sure they have no issues with you using their vector on your for-profit project. Often time, free only means for personal use, or a small quantity, so it is best practice to confirm with the creator the intended use.

Garret I am very impressed with your training and I dont even own a cnc yet.. I am just starting my journey into cnc and what is the best machine to buy... thanks for sharing with me your knowledge...

Here's my notes, teach - pin my comment: • General Notes • Dimensions in inches • Notes taken from RU-vid video: the one you're watching • Vcarve toolpaths - obviously • Male inlay material only needs to be 0.2" thick or better (>0.11"). Can cut slabs in half to make it thinner if you want. This would potentially make it easier to cut away later. • When you cut out the male/female pieces, clean them up with a dremel sanding ball prior to doing the glue up. • Must have two copies of the project file, with the Male Inlay (what we're gluing in) being mirrored from our Female Base board (what we see). • Save off a copy of our project file using 'Save As' • Select the inlay vectors • Under 'Transform Objects', select the 'Mirror Selected Objects' icon • Check the 'Flip about job center' checkbox • Make sure the 'Create a mirrored copy' is unchecked • Click the 'Flip Horizontal' button • Click 'Close' button • Save the project -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- • Male Inlay Toolpath planning: • It is helpful to put a vector around the inlay vectors to create a limiting bounding box around what needs to be carved out around the inlay. • You can draw a rectangle around the inlay vectors, or • Select the inlay vectors, then click on the 'Offset - offset selected vectors' icon under the 'Offset and Layout' edit items. • Select the 'Outwards/Right' radio button • 'Distance' = 0.75 • Remaining checkboxes are not checked • Click the 'Offset' button • Click the blue 'Switch to Toolpath' button in the upper left corner of the workspace to switch to creating toolpaths. • Start Depth = 0.09 • Check the 'Flat Depth' checkbox • Set Flat Depth to 0.02 • V-Bit (90.0° - 1/4") with a blade edge (forward cutting knife edge) • This is the 'average size inlay project'. For small inlays, use a 60°. For large inlays, use a 120° v-carve bit. • 2-flute • Cutting Parameters • Pass Depth = 0.08 • Final Pass Stepover = 0.005, or 2% • Clearance Pass Stepover = 0.05 or 20% • Feed and Speeds • Spindle Speed = 16000 • Feed Units = inches/min Chip Load (from calculation was) 0.0022 • Feed Rate = 70 inches/min • Plunge Rate 25 inches/min • Check the 'Use Clearance Tools' checkbox • Select a 1/8 upcup endmill • don't need to use a downcutting endmill so the cut can suck ass without a negative side effect • Allows you to be aggressive with a larger stepover and higher feedrate • Example • Diameter = 0.125 • Pass Depth = 0.125 (1x tool diameter) • Stepover = 0.0875 or 70% • Feed Rate = 80 inches/min • Plunge Rate = 60 inches/min • Tool-specific options • Check the 'Offset' radio button • 'Cut Direction' doesn't matter, he chose 'Climb' option • Check the 'Use Vector Selection Order' checkbox and leave 'Use Vector Start Points' unchecked. • Check the 'Project toolpath onto 3D model' checkbox • 'Vector Selection' set to Manual • Give the project a name • Select the vectors, then click the 'Calculate' button • Click the 'Preview All Toolpaths' button to get a visual of what the male inlay will look like • Name the two toolpaths • The 1/8" endmill toolpath defaults to name ' [Clear]' • Rename to whatever, but this toolpath needs to be ran first • The v-carve toolpath defaults to name '' • Rename to whatever, this needs to be ran after the endmill operation • Close the Preview by clicking the 'Close' button • Click the 'Save Toolpath' icon under 'Toolpath Operations' • The 'Visible toolpaths to multiple files' radio button should be checked - others unchecked • Click the 'Toolpaths' checkbox to select the two (endmill and v-carve) toolpaths • Make sure the correct 'Post Processor' is selected (may have 'inch' postfix, which would be appropriate) • Click the 'Save Toolpath(s)' button • Rename the pre-populated filename to something male/inlay in nature, as Vectric will use whatever we put in here as a basename, appending our previously chosen names to the end of this common base. • The order of the toolpaths in the project play a role in the named output files • Click the 'Save' button -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- • Female Base board Toolpath planning: • With the female project opened, click the blue 'Switch to Toolpath' button in the upper left corner of the workspace to switch to creating toolpaths. • Select the v-carve vectors • Start Depth = 0 • Flat Depth = 0.11 • Use the same v-carve bit • Same feeds/speeds • Same 1/8 endmill • Same feeds/speeds • Same remaining settings as before • 'Tool-specific options' = 'Offset', 'Climb', 'Ramp Plunge Moves' = unchecked, 'Use Vector Selection Order' = checked, 'Project toolpath onto 3D model' = checked, 'Vector Selection' = Manual • Change Name to something useful • Click the 'Calculate' button • Click the 'Preview All Toolpaths' button to get a visual of what the female inlay will look like • Rename the two toolpaths similar to before (except give it a female vibe) • Close the Preview by clicking the 'Close' button • Click the 'Save Toolpath' icon under 'Toolpath Operations' • The 'Visible toolpaths to multiple files' radio button should be checked - others unchecked • Click the 'Toolpaths' checkbox to select the two (endmill and v-carve) toolpaths • Make sure the correct 'Post Processor' is selected (may have 'inch' postfix, which would be appropriate) • Click the 'Save Toolpath(s)' button • Rename the pre-populated filename to something female/base in nature for our project • The order of the toolpaths in the project play a role in the named output files • Click the 'Save' button

Would carpet tape work just as well as the CA glue?? Still use the masking tape though. Seems like it would be more cost friendly over CA glue and accelerator spray cost .

Garrett very nice video. Would you change your depth of cut if you changed to a 60 v-bit or a 30?

Hi Garrett I have one question. Would you share how to create the tool path for the surfacing bit?

Hi Garrett, What do you do when you are using two separate clearing bits (.25 & .126" bits) for the plug and the starting depth is .18 and flat depth is say .12 ? I find that the clearing bit goes right to the .18 and then cuts the .12 for a total cut of .3" (way to much for a .25" bit) Then because I use a 1/8" bit also, it is REALLY to much. How would one go about making a separate toolpath for the clearing bits. I'm afraid of I select what needs to be cleared without specifying the vbit (6.2deg), it will not clear correctly. I've tried duplicate toolpaths for the vcarve option and it gets really confusing. I hope I explained myself without too much confusion. Thanks Scott

Bro, mighty thin inlay. I've done a couple dozen inlays in flat wood and end grain cutting boards (male is glued-up edge grain as well). I use the Zank method: male SD is 0.1 FD 0.2; female SD is 0 FD is 0.3. I use these regardless of bit size. I've use 15, 30, and 60 degree v-bits depending on the design. I like a thicker inlay to allow for a more 'beefy' inlay, especially in end grain and to allow for sanding. My bits are also larger diameter.

This is amazing skills and know how tips!!! I am looking for perfect wood working CNC router machine. It seems like your machine is custom made. I am looking at ShopBotTool CNC machine but do you recommend any other machine?

1st I’d just like to say thank you for sharing! Your tutorials have been extremely helpful! My question is on deeper inlays, I’m cutting to .25 deep so my male I used for start depth of .23 and flat depth of .02 but with that then it will take a 1/4” in 1 pass, pretty hard on tools so was wondering what would be the best way to set up for the male so it can take a couple cuts to get to final depth? Thank you!

I am using Carbide Create: For the male piece, when I set the "Start Depth" to 0.09 and the "Flat Depth" to 0.02, it returns "no tool path"... however, when I set the "flat depth" to 0.14 (which is 0.03 deeper than the 0.11 depth that I used for the female piece), it seems to generate a tool path. Am I missing something?

Garrett, If you run the 1/8 clearout bit first won't that bit run right uo to the design line? If that happens the V-bit would not cut a 90 degree angle, but go only to the design line. Would you not have to do an offset inward away from design line. I very much enjoy your desceiptive videos! Thank you for be so responsive to your viewers. Don L.

A question for you can I cut PVC material with this and CNC machine to go all the way and cut the whole thing without carving I wanted to be cut let me know please because I’m interested to buy one of those thank you so much

I followed this tutorial exactly but with my own svg and a 60° v bit. The inlay dry fit was pretty sloppy but I tried it anyway. There's a 3/64" glue gap between the male and female after the reveal. Any idea what I did wrong?

Thanks Garrett for the great tutorial. It's guys like you that help guys like me make good decisions. Working through the process to determine if I could make say $15K net profit a year with it to supplement retirement income. Any thoughts would be helpful. Joe.

sadly your file did not load .im using a step craft 840 running UCCNC and uc100 usb controller i also have v carve desktop 11 ,so no idea why it don't work

Under tools in Google Images there is Common Creative license which shows images that allows use of the image if not being sold. A checkered background is a symbol for transparent background.

Great job on the video Garrett! I ran into an issue however. When I try to run the files on my onefinity cnc the “male” feather only wants to run the borders on the inside and outside. I tried separating the toolpaths but didn’t help. Any advice for a newbie like me? The only way I can get it to work is to v-carve the whole feather which takes an hour and 45 minutes which is way too unproductive for me.

Very interesting videos...thank you. I want to do souvenirs to sell in the tourist market in Jamaica. I have been looking into cnc laser cutters, vs cnc routers vs scroll saws. I would appreciate any feedback from you and links to industrial cnc routers that you would recommend.

I have a problem my cnc uses a dremel, it only cuts .5 or 1mm each time, when I cut the female part I can set it to cut .5 or 1mm, but when I cut the male part, it starts at 2.5mm plus the . 5 mm deep and cut 3 mm in one go as it happens in the video, and that is very aggressive for my cnc, please, is there any recommendation so that I can cut the male inlay in three times of 1mm? Thank you!!! ps: With your video it was the only one that I really understood how to make this type of inlay, it is extremely detailed and in a very intelligent and orderly way it explains concepts that others overlook, thanks again!

caro maestro buonaser a grazie per le lezioni che ci dedica, complimentin per le chiare spiegazioni grazie a lei finalmente ho iniziato a fare intarsi, anche se ancora incontro un problema che non riesco ad abbattere, quando la fresa a v da 5,5° inizia il suo percorso sull'intarsio maschio ,non rispetta la profondita' di passaggio, io ho inserito 5mm di profondita' con tre passaggi da mm1,7 ,ma la fresa esegue in unico passaggio tutti e 5 mm con il rischio che mi rompe la fresa. Ha qualche suggerimento che possa aiutarmi a risolvere questo problema? Grazie ancora e tanti complimenti per la sua preparazione.

Sir thanks video I need your help Regarding which one model cnc wood router machine I have to buy And I am new start business Especially for door and windo purposes

Great video as usual. I wanted to know if it would make sense to tape down both pieces one above another with a little gap and then run the 1/8"upcut on both then but chance? Maybe save on time? I realize you'd have to load the gcode files for each a couple times but maybe it would save time on the bit changes ? Any thoughts on a setup like that?

when v carving the male ,plug, the tight spots all chipped out. I used walnut just like yours, I used a 60 degree bit .any tips?

That's not a checkered background it is actually No background that is just how it is displayed.

I don't know how the software works, but the checkered background means the image has a transparent background. I'd think that would make it quite easy to do this.

I saw another video that used a tapered ball nose bit (1/32" ball) to get the sharper angles on the edges. What are your thoughts on using this alternative to the v-bit? You instructions were used and he indicated he learned from you.

using your numbers on the start depth, and flat depth I find that when I glue the male to the female, the male is flush with the female board. The end result is gaps in my inlay. when I changed the start depth , on the male, to .2 and the flat depth to .1. the female is set at .3. the result is very good with a nice tight inlay. now while it's carving it the bit does plunge quite deep. I'm thinking I should cut this in 2 passes....your thoughts

Do you have a video showing the difference between the desktop and pro version. I'm new at cnc and don't want to spend 700 bucks for the pro just for a year of service

Great video. The link to the feather inlay project with instructions & g code files isn't working. Is there another to go to?

Thanks for the tutorial, having a problem, when I use the scissor tool to snip out it only wants to snip out the curves that I created, can't figure out why it will not allow me to snip out around the feather.

Thanks for the awesome info! I was wondering what settings to use to make them deeper, I am wanting to do bowties with them. At least a 1/4 inch deep.

Really don't understand why people keep messing with the ca glue method, it's not faster or stronger than a simple corner and 2 6 shaped clamps.

Hey Garrett, I have been trying about 10 times to do some inlays according to what to say and none of them have come out, can I send you one so you can help me.

Fantastic. subscribed. Could you do a veneer inlay using dragknife?

I dont understand why the outside cuts are so sharp and all the inside cuts are so rounded off. seems like a lot of detail is lost there. my inlays are vary small and that just wouldn't be acceptable.

can't find the link to the files...where are they? you mentioned that they are down in the description but i don't see any..

As much as I'd love to follow along and try this on my own, unfortunately VCarve is entirely too expensive for my wallet at this time. ($700!!!!!) I wish they had a monthly subscription I could get in on on but $700 for the software with no promise on return is a huge investment especially when I'm trying to justify about $3000 for a cnc machine upgrade (from my Sainsmart 3040). I got about 33 minutes in, realized how expensive VCarve was and had to stop there. Hell...I'd even try to sneak $350 past my "financial advisor" (wife) but as it stands now, I'm pressing my luck on the $3,000 hardware investment. Is there any way you could do something like this with any of the other software? I was very motivated by your intro and had high hopes of results but the sticker price will scare most any beginner out of being sadly disappointed when they find out that the software alone is ~1/3rd the price of the hardware. If you could offer any advice for those of us like me that don't have an extra $700 to spend on just the software would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

Do you think the numbers used for the inlays are deep enough for cutting boards?

hello Garrett, is the flat depth of 0.02 inches constant? Or does it change depending on the depth of the inlay? For example, if I want to make an inlay of 0.138 inches, that's: starting depth: 0.1178 inches and flat depth: 0.02, right?

I have a question .... I tried a simple image with text using your DOC and Flat settings, 1/8 EM to clear and a 90 deg VBit to finish. Both pieces are coming out nice and clean but they are not matching up size wise - the male piece is too large to sit into the female recess. I'm using VCarve 11.5 and a Shark HD CNC machine. I've had other inlay projects work but it seems kinda hit or miss if the sizes are going to match. I did the original vectors on layer one, flipped the entire drawing with no other mods onto layer 2. I've tried cutting this twice with same results. Thoughts?