How to Make a Poor Man’s Beading & Marking Tool | Paul Sellers 

The simpler the solution, the wiser he seems.

Can openers have a metal disk. Remove that disc and the holder and screw them on at the end of a piece of dowel rod. As a depth gauge you can use a nut-washer or a simple nut. All of the above can be bought for super cheap. The can opener can be the cheapest kind (so long as it has that disc, you're cutting wood, not metal, tho i scored a cheap one that had a decent wheel that can scribe even metal), the dowel rod is cheap, and you're left with an extra piece for your collection (if you've the nerve to ask, you can even go to the wood chop shop (in major stores that sell wood) and ask the guy there if he has any scraps or broken pieces, most will pass those for free, got a tie down of at least 30ish pieces that way), the screw, well, cheap too, and the nut (the bigger the dowel rod, the better) also cheap. If you don't cheap out on the can opener, or get lucky like i did, you can get a really hard wheel, and this project can turn in to a multi surface tool. Mine can score very tough metal. Also, you can salvage the other wheel (the one with the spikes) and make a point lay down. Very useful if you want to drill holes repeatedly in to a surface and not think much over it. You score the line with the star wheel and simply count every other hole (depending on how spaced you want them).

These videos just prove that I have never once in my life handled a truly sharp tool.

I always hated slotted screws but I didn't want to throw them away. Watching this and the followup-video, I now finally know, why I still have them. Thanks a lot for sharing your great tool!

this is mindblowing. such a simple tehnique that does a very precise job

It is always pleasure to look someone working when they make it look so easy because their skills.

This man right here never ceases to amaze me!

You do many fine things. As a Danish cabinetmaker, it is interesting to see that you sometimes do things differently than we do in Scandinavia. In this video I notice that you turn the mortise chisel backwards. It is standard to keep the inclined surface down, where I come from. Your result is impeccably anyway. I translate with Google, and hope it makes sense :) Good greetings from Denmark

I'm always amazed at how you can make something from just scraps or little bits of material. And I just want to say I just received your book a few days ago and how excited I am to start reading it's just finding the time.

Oh, I love this kind of video! I live in a two room flat, so a workshop obviously isn't an option for me...but I still like to make stuff! There are very few videos around, where you can pick up tips how to get a more professional result without the kind of equipment I can't use here!

the real carpenters beading & marking tool .. thanks for sharing .

Your best video on down to earth yet very effective woodworking. 👍👌🎫🔨

Simple, but effective, thanks for sharing.

I'm gonna make one of these. thanks for sharing

Very simple and efficient !

Poetry in motion. Thank you.

Always a pleasure Sir!

Geniuosly simple and extremely accurate

Excellent paul i'll make one tomorrow thank you.

i really enjoy the way you work, ist berry inspirating for me thank for the video.

Just got your new book in the mail here in Texas the other week. Really enjoying it!

Nice! Thank you so much for sharing!!

Oh wow! There is a lot of great info there.

Today I used this tool to great effect, to cut the beads on the curvy oak frames of a traditional ship. It works!

Even easier than cutting a square notch from a corner for a perpendicular drill guide, is to use 2 pieces, held, clamped or fastened together, in an offset to make the square notch from the 2 pieces. As long as the ends, sides and faces are square cut (as is his block here), the notch will be also.

Outstanding .... Thanks.

Love your work sir

It so simple, but i would never have thought of it myself. I guess this is why I am subscribed to your channel. :-D

Paul is AMAZING! If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery then people love you Paul because you’re being ripped off left and right. I’m talking to you “Rex figures it out”

And you don't even have to be poor, just like making your own tools! So simple and effective!

It's really cool

Really a great explanation. Thank you for sharing and demonstrating how to make it.

Last time I cut a door knob hole there was one of these laying there afterwards.. I put a screw in it and it was finished.. NICE!

Brilliant!

My high school (1965) woodwork teacher made something very similar (the wood part was larger) to be used as a router plane.

Gracias.

brilliant!

Thanks.

I’m a knife maker and in my early years and before I had a drill press.... I struggled with squaring my holes for pins.... the block of wood on top is genius... I literally watched him do it and looked to h The heavens saying why am I so stupid!? Such a simple fix!! So effective..... god made wood then he made sellers!!!!!!!

Yet another great video, if this was any other channels content they no doubt would had used hundreds of £/$/€ of tooling just the shape the block of wood. It's what makes me come back time and again, I don't have or need a vast collection of tools to take part in the projects and get "making". All else I can say, Paul you had better be training someone or never retire.

Thank you for your helpful vids. Please explain why you round your poor man's marking guage vs. keeping it square?

Genius

nice very very nice

who would have thought that a screw in a piece of wood could be so useful

Can you do one for a proper adjustable gauge?

An old standby. A variant is to open a throat on the block and use it as a router for hinge mortises.

Paul what is that new marking knife you're using? It looks lovely.

simplisity

Paul Sellers! Fancy using a cordless drill to make that hole! Ha ha, just kidding, Thanks for the tutorial, I will try this out soon.

Great video as usual. I've seen you use the old screw in the block trick when you did your clock videos. I've been using this shortcut and it works wonders. Could I ask if you could check out woodbywrights newest video. We are starting a hand tool challenge and would love you input and possibly help spread the word of what we would like to do. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thx again.

Question: What is the same little tool on your right with (2) screws in it used for?

Was the previous life of your flat tip screwdriver once a spade bit?

The benchtop has been rejuvenated, or maybe a worn sacrificial surface has been removed and a new notched block installed beside the vise. By the way, I've wondered why the vise is mounted ~12-16" from the end of the bench, instead of at the end. Is there any advantage to that position?

Very impressed by the skills shown at carving those curves... how do you **write** the name of the iron tool you used to "sand" the wood? That thing is powerful.

Ha! nice marking knife.

What about using a hole saw and getting it perfectly round? They usually have 1/4 " drills, dut if the hole is too big for your screw, you can bush it with a dowel.

Mr Sellers, what wood do you use, what tree?

Does the screw not turn when pressure is applied while trying to mark?

You should have posed this on April 1st.

Hi Paul, what type of rasp you're using?

Your the Brst

he maybe hamborne

????, a motorized tool? I've seen a few of you videos, and quite astoinded by the lack of powertools.

You really think a hammer and chisel is the best solution for making a rounded block out of a square one? I have saws and Sanders that make quick work of that sort of thing

Why/when would you want to bead wood?

A screw in a block of wood... *closes all other tabs with guides for making fancy, over-complicated marking gauges...

Woe you milked more than 9 minutes putting a screw in a small block of wood !!!

Very simple and efficient !

The benchtop has been rejuvenated, or maybe a worn sacrificial surface has been removed and a new notched block installed beside the vise. By the way, I've wondered why the vise is mounted ~12-16" from the end of the bench, instead of at the end. Is there any advantage to that position?