I love this hack and that you provide two different approaches. Let me add a third: heat the bolt and use it as a threading tap. Drill the hole a little smaller than the bolt, heat the end of the bolt with a heat gun or lighter (not super hot but hot enough to soften pvc) and thread the cap onto the hot bolt. May have to heat it a second time to complete the threading. Primary thing to watch for is to make sure you keep it aligned because the bolt can get cockeyed if you're careless. If you have a tap you can do that instead, but this has worked quite well. There's enough meat there for sufficient threads to hold fast. I sized one for holding one of the manufacturer's adjustable angle rod holders (just sits down in there snugly) I carry a rod in there with some heavy rigs at a pretty flat angle and it rides like a champ.
I think this is by far the most useful, cost effective hack I have seen for kayaks yet. Thank you for putting this out there, I am going to be making a few this weekend for my new kayak! Steve.
See in the other comments some improvements to make the bond better. Basically, drill a few holes in addition to the center hole so the glue or epoxy putty and fill those holes. This will create a better grip on the nut. Take care!
+Adventure Outdoors Thanks! Appreciate the endorsement. The only problem is now I have more gear heads than I can shake a stick at! Luckily, plenty of buddies to give them away to.
I had to use option 2 on my old town predator. Went with 1 1/4 ID PVC schedule 40. Used the 1/4 in toilet bowl kit. Put the metal washers on the inside so the nut will rest in it. Went with the threaded male cap and female adapter so I can make changes as needed. Making 4 at once to max out the epoxy. Thanks! Doc
If you use the putty method, score the bottom of the pvc on the inside with a file or a sharp knife, even scissors. The roughened and irregular surface will ensure that the putty will hold its place far longer than if the surface had been smooth.
Agreed. Additionally, 'Gorilla' epoxy especially is the absolute worst in epoxies... Use JB Weld, but some silicon spray on the threads and let it cure for 24 hours, again after you score/sand down the internal PVC, it WILL be worth it and last forever.
I like the idea. I'm not a kayaker, but this system could work equally well on my plastic Bass Hunter Stalker II pontoon boat, as well as, on my bass boat. You got the wheels in my brain spinning.
Good point - added - Parts: Choose any size PVC to match the strength required. You need a plug (slip or thread), an adapter to match your plug, a toilet bolt (or any T Bolt) and nut, and epoxy
One improvement is to drill some additional holes around the center hole for the bolt. Then the epoxy can flow into those as well to create more grab. Put tape on the bottom to keep the epoxy from flowing out of the additional holes.
If you drill some tiny holes half way thru the inside of the PVC fitting where you pour the epoxy it will help hold it solidly. or you can just drill all the way thru and wrap the PVC with tape on the outside to cover the holes and pour in the epoxy,the tape will keep the epoxy from running out...........makes it very solid and will never let the nut spin !
Great Idea! 10/10 Scotty gear heads are expensive. This looks like a reliable alternative. Thank you for this. Toilet bolts!!!! DUH, I knew I saw those gear head bolts somewhere before....
+Kayak Chris I was able to pick up the same bolts used on gear heads at my kayak dealer, but they are pretty expensive. I forget what I paid for two, but it was more than I wanted to spend. You have a nice channel! I will subscribe via my other account.
Great hack! Finding it hard to find which gear tracks fit other vendors accessories. For example: I have Scotty accessories and want to find a track with one line of holes. Like your hack for tracks, I might try that.
Made some of these using wToilet bolts wing nuts and a torch. After drilling, heat up the wing nut and pull down into the fitting. It melts it's way in and seems really stout. I did it to start and reheated to pull it to bottom. Careful that they cool vertical. If hot and laid horizontal, the bolt will pull down while cooling and get things out of perpendicular. Willl try to attach video. Ready in 5 mins. Testing them out tomorrow. FYI I am new to kayaking this summer and your channel is terrific in getting me going in the right ways.
Hi, my name is Randy. I am new to kayaking, fishing for a long time thought. I have got a lot of good ideas for you, thanks. Here is my idea. I used pronged t nuts. So far so good. I drilled a hole like you did I heated the bottom of the PCV cap and drove the t nut down. Works great so far, and cheep 3 t nuts was $0.80 Have a great day and year
I believe the liquid epoxy option is probably the better one. I have been using both and it is nice to see through the epoxy and know the nut is still tight.
Thanks so much for this video, I've been knocking out mounts and it works like a charm. Wish I would have seen gettinrings little tip first. Anyway, was wondering if you ever thought about melting up some HDPE plastic and pouring that in instead of epoxy? Would sure set quicker. I'd love to try it and let you know, but am afraid my little apartment might not be a good place for the fumes. Thanks again!
How about a video on making a mount for a motor using the same track system or something on the back of the kayak for a gas motor. Appreciate your content!
lol! I would have to get a motor! Great idea and when I am old and beat up, I'll have to figure that out. I think there are a number of videos out there from other folks that discuss this if you do not want to wait for me to age!
Thanks for the great video tutorial! I combined your design/method with some ideas from a Zoffinger video to make a rail mounted scotty type rod holder and a camera mount.
Here's a challenge for you that will help me. Figure out how to install a transducer that goes through a scupper hole (mine is Coosa FD) that is adjustable up and down. I just bought a side imaging fish finder and need to figure out how I can adjust the transducer deeper below the recessed area (for transducer) in my Coosa to take full advantage of the side imaging and recess it for landing and transporting the kayak.
Great video. I haven't seen a depth finder mount I liked. Mounting in middle of floor is out of the question. Using this method. I can make A PVC arm that swivels out of the way. Your videos are very informative. Thanks
Curious if one could cut some disks from a sheet of delrin plastic with a hole saw to act as large 'fender washers' between the rail and the hacked gear head? Innovative hack with endless options for each individual application!
Works great! BTW.. check out the comment from gettinrings I pinned. He has a good enhancement that makes this idea even better. Also, be sure to use a 45 degree connector in your mount like I did (see my GoPro playlist) since that will help keep the pole out of the shot.
When I did this, the PVC cap would not thread down far enough to catch and tighten b/c the bolt wasn't threaded the entire length. I used a plastic spacer to make up the difference and it worked just fine. I noticed that when you put this together the bolts were not threaded all the way to the end, however when you showed the finished product the threads go all the way down. I assumed you had the same problem and found a bolt that was threaded the entire length? Also, I used the bolts from Lowes with the attached washers. I just filed down the sides which actually made a more tighter fit on my Tarpon 120.
I did not have a problem using my bolts. I wonder if some of the epoxy got into your nut and kept the bolt from going all the way in. But... washers work as well!
Did you skip over why the bolts in the beginning have the non-theaded portion at the bottom, but the bolts in the last scene are threaded all the way to the "T" head of the toilet bolt? Looks like the original bolts have the possibility of bottoming out before tightening, depending on how thick your track is. I'm using the Scotty low profile. I don't think it would tighten up on it, using the first bolts.
Sorry, it was the lighting that hid the threads in the initial scene. There was reflection that blended them together. The toilet bolts have thread all the way to the head - you will see that when you pick up some.
This is a great hack, the toilet bowl bolts did not work for me the slot in the track on my Vibe kayak is too wide. I found by using a 5/16" Stainless carriage bolt it worked perfectly. Just had to widen the hole on the bottom after the epoxy had set to allow the bolt to tighten all the way.
You are a genius, just ordered a tamarack 100 And cant wait to apply some of your hacks, theres so many im gonna sink ......this gearhead mod is really great. Have you run across any substitute for the scotty track itself? It would be great to make custom sizes and put a few in the kayak where longer ones were not practical.....tha nks for all the mods i am subscribed and liked you...ken on CA Delta
It seems like the utility track is pretty standard. You can get square tubing at Home Depot and modify it with a lot of effort. They might have other hardware that would work better... I have not investigated... hmmmm...
Thank you for this video. Excellent idea! I have a tap and die set so just threaded the hole in the pvc and screwed in the toilet bolt. No nut or epoxy used. It seems sturdy this way but time will tell. I want build a 1 1/4 inch rod holder on top of a 1" mount I made by sliding a length of pvc pipe over it. I can't find a 1 1/4" reducer. Any ideas on how best to accomplish this? Thanks
Thanks. Am guessing those are 1" pipes. About to go buy now, and also do your rod holder trick. I bought the Feelfree lure 13.6 2016 model, and haven't been able to install anything yet. Cause the track system don't work with any thing sold around here, even Bass pro shops. If I wanna use a Yak Attack rod holder I need a special adapter costing like $30 lol. But think this idea will work for me. Thanks a lot saved me.
Buying Lew's Fishing Tournament MB Baitcast Reel, 6.7 oz./120 yd./12 lb./8.3:1 tonight on Amazon, can you recommend a good rod to go with it? Been looking for hours am stuck. Been leaning towards Lew's Fishing Speed Stick Series Rod, 7'/Medium Heavy/Moderately Fast Taper This will be used for Kayak fishing, Worms, jigs, frogs, sometimes cranks. Thanks for any help
Michael McCullough I am not a rod guy... I just buy whatever is reasonably priced. I use medium or medium heavy when fishing inshore and medium light when fishing for fresshwater bass.
Great hack. I'm new to kayaking and don't want to spend a ton on mounting since I'm not fishing but still like to carry gear. I'm too lazy/inept to make my own video so here's a request. I'm working on ways to use Bucket Boss - Flap Fit (or whatever brand) tool belt accessories since the kayak specific bags are so expensive. There aren't very many videos (if any) I could find combining rail hacks and bag hacks. If you come up with a video, I'll watch. Thanks for t his one.
Here is what I did to make my fishing tools accessible: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1Ezrvs2MqFE.html and I also made a rig rack: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ESR5buLSbQU.html I'll have to think about the bag thing.... I'll go look at one at Home Depot today.... maybe just create the rig rack and hang the bag from it... might work!
No dumb questions. The nut stays put. The epoxy holds the nut in place so you can screw the bolt into it. The nut/bolt combo is what holds the creation to the utility track.
Thanks for the update, I'll keep that in mind. Currently I have one gear head adapter and I recently ordered a transducer mount. I might try to print an adapter with my 3d printer just to see if it works well, I'll let you know how it works out.
They all match - just get the same size. The threaded section will be sold as 1 inch, 3/4, etc. Then just get the same matching threaded part - again, it will be 1 inch, 3/4, etc. The best way to make sure everything fits is to put it together in the store.
Will this still work on the new “low-profile” plastic tracks from Scotty? I am planning to outfit my WS Pungo 120 as economically as possible until I can afford a SOT fishing yak.
How did you mount the other holders that are behind the one you just made?(the black triangle ones) I have one of these but never mounted it because I didn't want to drill holes in my kayak. Love your videos!
The black one is a Scotty mount. It slides into the utility track and clamps down using a special nut that I had to buy from my kayak store. You do have to bolt on the utility track.
Hmmm... Great idea. The kayak store could have had a mask on for what they charged me for six of the special slide attachments. Just cut a toilet bolt! Great idea! Put the nut on the top. You would have to see if you can tighten the nut from the top... not sure about the room for a socket.
All I have done is drop a 1/2 inch pipe into the mount, drill a hole thru mount and pvc and lock down with cotter pin. I'll have to look at zoffinger... have not seen his
Does option work with your Jackson larger track? In option two you mentioned that you had two different sizes on the jackson. I have the same "issue" with my big rig and did not want to go with this option if it did not work.
@@KayakhacksFishing thanks for the reply. I did try 5/16 bolts and you can rock them out of the track. Currently waiting for the poxy to dry. Thank you again
Expanded PVC trim board is a great addition to your selection of DIY materials. Buy it at Lowe's in 3/4" x 3 1/2" x 8' and 3/8" x 1 1/2" x 8' boards . It can be bent with a heat gun. Cuts and drills as easy as PVC pipe. And, you can friction weld PVC pipe into it without using PVC cement (rick.sparber.org/PVC_FrictionWelding.pdf) using a few PVC pipe parts and an electric drill.
